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Comments
Greg
Ken
how did you make the temp. to get to 50F? What's your secret? ;-)
Sure didn't feel like it in NYC yesterday
-Dave
Steve - The current OB and Legacy GT use a 4 bulb system (Legacy L is 2 bulb), with the low beams using the H1 bulb. This is not a common bulb for headlights in the USA, but is a bit more common in Europe. European standards also allow a higher output for the low beam than our DOT. The Philips Vision Plus falls into that category. While it is still a 55w draw, differences in the tungsten filament promote a higher emission temperature. The light on my garage wall was distinctly brighter and more blue/white. How this will translate to real world illumination on the road is yet to be seen.
I am afraid that I do not know what bulbs your older series OB use.
Steve
'98 to '99 = single 9007
'00 to '04 = H1 low / 9005 hi
DaveM
Now Sandy is merely "dirty", I swear she needs a 2nd wash.
-juice
Greg
Sounds like a trooper rear end without the limited slip additive. Going to dealer wednesday to have it looked at.
Anyone know what type of limited slip the wrx has in the rear?
Don
The flakes that are coming off are the metallic titanium. Underneath is paint that is almost the same color, but not quite, and seems to have a "grainier" metallic flake to it.
Does anyone know if that "grainier" paint is some sort of underlayer, perhaps a paint layer between primer and the titanium color layer? Or, perhaps, it is the primer?
If the flakes are just the clearcoat flaking off, would the flakes look like I have described or would they actually be clear?
I bought this car in March 2003 from the original owner -- the paperwork and a Carfax confirm that he was the only owner. But is it possible this is a replacement bumper (or the original that was repainted) and the new paint is now flaking off? He didn't tell me anything like that was done, and did not mention any accidents, and Carfax would not note any accidents that did not result in a title change (i.e., car was totalled by insurance). And, no other parts of the car show even the slightest indication of any accident, although it is possible something happened just to the front bumper.
The rest of the car is in excellent condition. There are some chips in the rear bumper, but those are chips due to getting nicked or hit (teenage son and his Scout buddies loading and unloading gear into or out of the car) or along the edge of the unpainted black ribbed section, and not the same type of flaking as on the front.
If the front bumper flaking continues, it will soon look pretty bad and will need repainting or replacement. But the entire layer of flaking paint would have to come off or be taken off or else repainting would not work. As for replacement, do the replacement bumper covers come already painted? Unlikely, but since all OBs have the titanium painted bumpers (before going to the monochrome look this year), I thought they might come painted.
Any ideas or words of wisdom?
--K9Leader
B
In this area, for R&R the bumper plus prep plus repaint is around 300.00, give or take.
Larry
K9Leader: very, very likely a re-paint. If you know the original owner, many body shops do offer a lifetime guarantee, so they might re-do it for you.
My '91 Escort re-paint peeled like crazy, even my '93 Miata has a couple of small spots that are peeling so I have to take it back to the body shop.
-juice
It's not like this type of bumper appeared yesterday; I had a 1972 Firebird with a rubber bumper- I used an additive when I repainted it. The paint never peeled off.
These bumpers have been around for over 30 years now; why can't people seem to be able to paint them properly?
With my Escort, it was just the clear coat peeling off.
-juice
If the original owner will now admit to the replacement/repaint (and, therefore, acknowledging that he lied to me by withholding that info during the sale), I may be able to go to the shop that did the work, and maybe they will honor a guarantee. More likely, they will say there was no guarantee, or that it did not transfer when I bought the car, or that it was only good for X period of time (and, of course, it is now X+). Even beyond that, though, is that the original owner lives an hour away, so my dealing with whatever shop he used would be an almost long-distance affair. I'm not sure it is worth that headache.
I have a shop locally that I trust, so I may take it there to see what they think, and see what it would cost to re-repaint this one (with appropriate prepping and stripping) as well as to paint a new one. Ah, another thing to add to the ever-expanding "To Do" list!
--K9Leader
Ken
Add to this above freezing is when salt does its most deadly work on the car, you might just as well drive it in the sea for about a month each year.
Cheers Pat.
-juice
The weather will look warm enough to wash/rinse Pebbles this Sunday.
-Dave
;-)
Eric
Jim
Background: '02 OBW w/ H1 lowbeams. This is a very simple two terminal single axial filament 55w bulb. US DOT regulations limit this to about 1350 lumins output, but European ECE rated bulbs of this form factor are apparently rated higher. But I have not been able to find an exact value for this. Also popular in Europe are so called +30% and +50% premium bulbs, available in this size. The Philips "Vision Plus" and the Sylvania/Osram "SilverStar" fall into this category, although one source says that the SilverStar sold in the USA (DOT compliant) is not the same as the ECE product that rates about the same as the Vision Plus.
So far, I am impressed by the Vision Plus. It really seems to put more light out in all directions - out front as well as the sides. This is a criticism of the PIAA - yes they put more light down the road, but at the expense of side illumination. The majority of the glass is clear except at the very top, which has a blue filter. Overall the light is whiter.
Philips & third party European web site claims up to 20 meters (65ft) more range over the standard ECE offering, which would translate to a big jump over DOT, and I think it is true. Now remember that this is not terribly scientific, as I have not gone back and forth between the two bulb types. But to put the perceived output into perspective, think of how the light changes when you go from 'daytime running lights' to 'headlights on'. I believe that a delta of this magnitude, or more, is what I have gained. I realize that I wasn't turning on my high beams as often, as their presence didn't make as big a difference on back country roads. The biggest delta was noticed on Tuesday night after it rained. I was getting good illumination off of the wet pavement, something I had not seen before. But I cannot comment on possible glare, as it was not actively raining at the time. There may be a downside to these bulbs that I have not experienced yet.
Steve
I personally haven't experienced any downside to these bulbs (no glare in rain either) except that they do have a shorter life.
Did you notice that the beam cutoff is sharper? It's much more pronounced on my Forester.
Ken
I did find some data very interesting data at http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/
They indicate that ECE might be as much as 35% higher output over DOT. They also listed some specific bulbs results:
"For the 55W marked segment, sorted in order of brightness:
+50%: Philips Vision Plus (achieves its extra performance by increased luminance, not lumens. See this article: http://www.eur.lighting.philips.com/press/automotive/resultsVisio- n.shtml)
+30%: Philips Premium, Osram Silverstar (European marked only - see note below)
+20%: Osram/Sylvania Xtra Vision, Osram/Sylvania Silverstar (North american marked only - see note below)
+0%: Philips Bluevison, Osram/Sylvania Cool Blue, Osram/Sylvania Halogen Plus, and OEM bulbs like GE.
-10%: PIAA Superwite"
Steve
Finally, after 5 days of clouds - and no snow - we saw the sun today. Finally a real 40 degrees. I'm ready for spring, even though I'm a skier.
MNSteve
Thanks,
Greg
Steve
Could you tell me where you are ordering them from? If it's not premitted to post here, could you e-mail me the supplier?
Thank You,
Ron
Thanks,
Steve
Did you check the AT fluid when the car was warm and idling in park? If you checked it with the engine off, it will read low.
DaveM
The sound continues when you let off the throttle, and when you shift into neutral while rolling along. That would seem to eliminate an axle bearing as the culprit. I've tried steering hard to one side and the other, to see if the sound goes away temporarily, but it doesn't seem to.
I know there have been some issues with the wheel bearings, and I'm thinking that could be the problem. After all, I've had the clutch judder (3 replacements so far) and the leaking headgaskets (just replaced last week), so I figure I'm probably overdue for wheel bearing problems.
Anyone have any knowledge of the symptoms of a faulty WB, or any other ideas on this noise? Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.
Len
Yes. I'd driven it about 25mi., ran thru the gears while stopped as the manual suggests. But I also checked it cold early this morning, and it read well above the high mark on the hot side. Made me think that it was over full. This is our 1st AT tranny, and I'm not familiar with the workings. Anything I'm missing?
Steve
Since the transmission is still under warranty, you should probably take it back to the dealer and see if there was a trouble code stored.
DaveM
I ordered mine through: http://www.autolamps-online.com/home.htm
They're only sold in Europe so most vendors I've seen are across the Atlantic.
Ken
No, you are correct about the level; a cold reading should read lower on the stick. That's why I thought it might be over full, as the level was .5 inch above the full level on a warm engine. I added Dexron III fluid this afternoon, and I'll keep an eye on it. I don't think I'll get the chance to run it by the dealer unless the light comes on again. Thanks for your help.
Steve
Thanks.
MNSteve
Cheers Pat.
Good luck and turn up that radio.
Michael
Thanks for that info. Did they have to replace both rear wheel bearings or just one? Do you happen to know if Subaru is using a redesigned bearing or do they use a replacement with the same faulty design? Any idea what the cost would have been if not covered by Subaru? Thanks again.
Len
Mike
Unfortunately, the Philips Vision Plus with the higher ECE spec output is only available in 3 (?) popular European sizes: H1, H4 & H7
H1 fits the current Outback low beam.
H4 would fit very early Outbacks (?)
From here it gets somewhat confusing, as the H4 has several near-equivilents and should interchange with the HB2 and 9003, if the chart from Daniel Stern's site is correct. The HB2 is used in the Honda Odyssey, so I am thinking of placing another order.
Steve
I made sure the gas cap is clean and clicked 3 times etc and did an ECU reset (disconnect the negative terminal for 30 minutes) and the CEL has gone away. If it happens again I should probably have the dealer look at the code. Ah, a self-healing car, right:). So, What are the major and minor reasons why this may have happened and if the ECU reset worked should I worry?
I've never had a car where the CEL comes on. Is it fairly common in Subarus ?
Could this be related to my topping off the gas tank with a gallon or so even after it automatically stops (contrary to the manual)?
Thanks.
Jon
Steve -- H4=HB2. Exact same form factor.
Ken
Very satisfied with the improvement.
Cheers
Thanks. Paul
Here is a list of the parts:
28016AA030-PT180303 Bearing
28015AA110-Oil Seal
28015AA100-Oil Seal
28015AA050-Oil Seal
Talk with your dealer, see if they can help out; if not, get in touch with 1-800-SUBARU3.
Best of luck.
Michael