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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I did my calipers over 3 years ago when my GT was new, I used Foliatec paint. I sprayed the cleaner without disassembly and I had no problems at all.

     By the way I live in Ottawa so I know what road salt is about, 3 and a half years later the calipers still look new, I also had the rotors cad. plated. Nothing looks worse to me than rusty rotors and calipers behind nice wheels.

      Cheers Pat.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Pat, you left a '.' at the end of your picture link, so it's not showing up for us. Try this: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid41/p4cb3f210cefbfdd595ab- b8064841a7e8/fcf4694a.jpg

    -Brian
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    said that there was observed problem with forward clutch assembly (?), trans fluid didn't look good, and as a result the transmission would have to be rebuilt.

    As long as you kept up on your maintanance I can't imagine that Subaru would not honor the warranty in this case if in fact the prognosis is correct. Be prepared to show proof that the following 30K services were performed:

    - replace front and rear differential fluid
    - replace automatic transmission fluid

    Although with your car only having 37K on it, I can't imagine 7K extra of use of that tranny fluid would cause a problem even if you didn't have it changed at the 30K interval.

    Elissa
  • astroguyastroguy Member Posts: 6
    Thank you Steve and Elissa for your feedback.

    Note that my Forester's maintenance book lists the auto trans fluid and differential lubricants as "I" (inspect, correct or replace if necessary), not "R" (replace), unless severe driving conditions occurred (towing a trailer given as example). These items are included in my shop's oil change service and as such don't appear as separate line items on my receipt. In my favor, the receipt for my 30K checkup includes line items for all the items in my maintenance book listed as "R" or "P" (perform), along with the oil change. Makes sense, because I used the maintenance book to generate the work items I told the shop to perform. Seems to me that this should be sufficient evidence of keeping up and sticking with Subaru's list, along with receipts for other mileage intervals (and more recent oil services).
     
    Do more recent Subaru models indicate replacement for these fluids at 30K?

    Thanks.

    Doug
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Ron- Man I feel for you! Thank goodness for the anonymity of the Internet :-)

    -Frank
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Thanks, the origional link said the image was temporarily unavailable so I just edited it out, you must have caught it before I edited.

    image

     This one does not do the calipers justice but you can see that the rotors are still pristine.

      Cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Glad it wasn't something serious. But couldn't your wife have just stepped out and checked the Forester?

    No need to answer. I've been in situations like that before.

    Ken
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    Small world. I'm in Ottawa as well.

    Thanks for the info everyone. BTW, rec'd an e-mail from Duplicolor late Friday strongly suggesting that pads be removed before using their cleaner. Hmmmm...wonder if I could get a different brake cleaner from Cdn tire or elsewhere?

    Pat: You think the caliper paint would stick to the rotor "hat" (obviously not where the pad contacts the surface)? I'm guessing by the fact that you had yours plated that perhaps a caliper paint may not cut it.

    BTW, nice wheels...really sharp. Notice you chose red for calipers. I picked up the black but not sure if red is a better choice. I have the monotone Garnet Red 05 OB XT. Any opinions on whether red or black would be better choice?

    Cheers.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Doug,

    Sounds like you are good to go with the documentation that you have. Elissa and I are both in a slightly more harsh climate and tend to follow a blend of Normal & Severe. Plus I do occasionally tow a small utility trailer, so I take that into account when I plan service intervals.

    Again, please let the board know how this plays out.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I wouldn't think that a caliper paint would stand up well to the high temps that a rotor sees. I suspect that the 'hat' would rust back to natural pretty quickly.

    I also tend to agree with Duplicolor's recommendation. Brake cleaner is a degreaser. The byproduct that drips off is still pretty oily. I would be concerned that it could poison the pads. You might get away with it most of the time, but I just don't think it falls under the 'best practices' catagory.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Call 800-SUBARU3. They will advise you to take it to a dealer, but go ahead and open up a case number. You have good records and have done the service, so it seems likely they will cover it.

    Don't be bullied by the fact that you didn't use the dealer for service. You are protected by the Magnussen-Moss warranty act.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I agee with Steve I don't the caliper paint will stand up on the Rotors, you might want to try one of the high temperature paints.

    If you are going to do anything with the rotors do it now before they get rusty, as for paint colour I think it is just a personal choice, I just happen to like red.

     Most of the cars I have owned I have painted the calipers red. I had the rotors plated at the same time I had them off to have them cross drilled.

      Cheers Pat.
  • ponyrider2ponyrider2 Member Posts: 29
    Hi
    just bought an 03 Outback Sedan. when trying it out noticed car was pulling slightly to right. dealer rotated tires for me, then seemed okay. But on my way home I noticed a noise coming from the front like a thumping noise, kinda of like you're running on a road that has continual raised lines across the road. Is this the tires? Thinking maybe they can be replaced under warranty..or??
    Also these tires seem to be very noisy anyway. They are Bridgestones standard on a Outback Ltd Sedan. Has anyone else noticed this?
    Thanks for your input!
    Ponyrider2
  • ozman62ozman62 Member Posts: 229
    Susie, if your car was sitting for a long time (before you purchased it) the tires may be permanently flat-spotted. Also, the usual solution to a pulling problem is a wheel alignment, but typically the dealer will attempt the easier, lower cost (to them) solution i.e. rotating. Maybe check the pressures?
    Hope this helps,
    Owen
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    or you picked up a large pebble between the threads, or... a nice size screw/nail.

    -Dave
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    You didn't mention how many miles are on the Outback or its tires. The "thump" could be developing from a belt separation & may not yet be easily noticed while looking at the sidewall / edge of the tread. A bad belt can also result in a pull. Noise could be due to irregular tread wear including cupping or feathering from suspension / alignment issues. The rim & tire can be checked for run-out on your drive once jacked up for a quick visual spin or on a tire balancing machine.
    I would notify the dealer to see if they'll take care of it first - otherwise, you will need to see what the tire dealer can do for you if it is a tire defect.
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    Picked up some Tremclad high heat paint in flat black (brush on). Says its good up to 1200 degrees F. Will try this on the hubs, and hope it works. If I have to touch up once a year, better that than seeing rust.

    Picked up two products from local parts store.

    1. AGS sil-glyde lubricant. Says it stops pad squeal and lubricates slides and contact points.

    2. Permatex brake quiet. Says it stops chatter and squeaking, but says nothing about lubrication.

    Any thoughts on which is the better choice, or should I be looking for something else? OR, should I go to the dealer to pick up (presuming its available) some of the grease used by Subaru?

    Thanks.
    Jay.
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    Can I assume that torque specs for caliper mounting bolts are the same as the 00-04 mdys, or I am I taking a big leap here?

    If not, would anyone have them?

    Cheers,
    Jay.
  • ponyrider2ponyrider2 Member Posts: 29
    Hi thanks for all your suggestions.
    The car has 25,000 miles on it. It sat for 3 months on the lot before I bought it. Although the dealer told me he drove it a few times.
    The tires are original to the car Bridgestone Potenza's. Tread appears normal except for some minor wearing on outer edges of what were the front tires.

    I mentioned the car pulling to the right before I bought the car that's why the tires got rotated. The car does still pull to the right but it's very slight. When I told the dealer it still pulled a little. He words were if I wanted to do an alignment and get new tires he'd give me a break on service. Nice guy..

    I have already called the Subaru dealership where the car was purchased to check on any service that was done to the car. The result was that the car was never brought in for service of any kind at the dealer. hmmm. I'm wondering now if any maintenance at all was done to it.

    I asked about the tires and possible causes of the noise while talking to the Subaru service. the guy did mention all the things you all have suggested here. He also said that they are not responsible for replacing the tires under warranty if they are bad, that I would have to go to the tire manufacture for that. Also said that I would have to have strong case to get any results (new tires)

    So hope I haven't gotten a money pit starting here... since I've only had the car one day!

    If anyone else has had trouble with these tires please add your comments,
    Thanks, Ponyrider2
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    The original Bridgestone tires on my GT sedan were severely cupped at about 38k. The dealer even commented on how loud they were on a test drive. I was also having problems controlling the car in wet conditions. My solution was to replace them with a set of Michelin MXV4's. I have 70k on these tires, with no problems. Rob M.
  • firstovfirstov Member Posts: 31
    Ponyrider2,
    I had those RE92 replaced by KUMHO tires at 12K due to they were too slippery in a winter time.
    If you are in MD you could pick them up from my garage. The tires have plenty of thread left.
    Subaru makes perfect cars in my opinion -
    except the stock tires are not very good.
  • fedexguyfedexguy Member Posts: 6
    Hi Last night my stereo( 2004 FXT Premium 6 Disc Changer) froze up completely. I could not turn in on or off none of the buttons worked and the display was blank. Usually when the power is off the display will show how many discs are still left in the unit. I had one disc left in the unit and I pressed and held eject for several seconds and it started up and ejected the disc and then functioned normally. I was driving normally and on smooth roads when this happened. Has this happened to anyone else?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    silicone lube will withstand high temps much better than anything else. see what's in the permatex... I use 3M silicone lube on my brake parts. it will still cook off under hard use, though.

    ~Colin
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    I'd stick 'em out another 25K miles (1-2 years) until their tread is lower then replace them with something you like better. They are a wear item that people get rid of between 30K and 60K miles. Not a cause for money-pittedness yet by any means.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Yes, twice, but each time it started up again when the power switch was pressed.

    '03 XS 6 disc changer, prob same as yours.

    John
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Yes, happened twice to me (04 FXT) - but when I shut the car off and then back on, the stereo worked normally. Also, sometimes, when I take a turn very fast, the volume decreases on its own. Very rare and impossible to duplicate at the dealer.
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Once on my '01 Forester I had the radio cut out for no apparent reason. Although I was driving across the country and the car was filled with stuff. The apparent reason turned out to be a bunch of stuff I had crammed onto the front passenger floor area. The cargo loosened some radio connection and wiggling it or doing something with it in 2 minutes time brought it back to life, never to cut out again. I know that's not very helpful but it's worth a peak around the front floor on the passenger side. I vaguely remember there being a box that was shifted? Good luck.
    Elissa
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I have mixed feelings about asking this because I both want to hear from someone else who has had these same problems, but also do NOT want to hear that they are not limited to just my car...

    The first (and most persisent) problem looks to have been addressed way back in 2002 when this discussion first started. However, I didn't come across a final resolution of the problem and perhaps it was because I didn't read far enough: I call this one the car's "reliable unreliability." When the car is warm (i.e., engine has been off for <45 minutes), regardless of time of year (it can be +100F or -40), it occasionally does not like to start. If I am persistent, I can run the battery dead and it will not start. However, if after 6 cranks the car doesn't start I know exactly what to do. I wait. In five minute intervals I again try to start the car. If it doesn't start with 6 cranks, I wait another 5 minutes. Usually within 3 trys it will start but ONLY if I wait those 5 minutes. I've been told it is a result of every sensor under the hood, but none have had a dramatic effect on curing the problem. Best of all, while the "check engine" light does engage, it never records a code.

    Next: the door locks. Not that I am lazy here, but nothing is more annoying than unlocking the driver's door and having the rest of the doors NOT unlock. This is a warm weather issue (anything above +40F) and I imagine that the switch has just become worn over the last 9 years / 172,000 miles. I hate to rag on Subaru, but come now.....

    Has anyone else experienced either of these problems? The first problem has been ongoing since I purchased the car more than 4 years ago, the door lock problem started at about 120K miles... maybe two years ago?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    what Colin said, I also silicone lube, you should not have to worry about lubing the slides yet though it is a brand new car.

      Cheers Pat.
  • ponyrider2ponyrider2 Member Posts: 29
    Hi thankyou for all your comments,
    I'm not sure this is a tire thing now, on the way home tonight the noise from the front became so loud I could here it with windows up and radio on. It sounded like someone was knocking on a door. When I slowed the car down the noise got even louder.
    When I got home I looked at the wheel and it had grease on the wheel. Not a huge amount but defineatly there. I know it was clean because I stopped on the way home and washed the car and dried it off.
    Does this sound like anything major? still sound like a bad tire? do they make that much noise with a bad belt?
    I will be drving my Mustang tomorrow for sure as I am afraid to drive this car in the shape it's in now. Looks like a trip to the dealer but maybe someone knows possible causes..

    Thanks once again,, Ponyrider2
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Eech. Almost sounds like a CV joint, but I've had to replace both of the front CVs on my car and neither of them quite eploded like that. Have you looked under the car and visually inspected the boots? If the boot is split open, you should probably replace the shaft.

    I was just reading up a little farther and there's only 25K on the car?! Well, it could still be CV, but that has to be a defect. I thought mine went out early and they lasted to 120K on the left and 140K on the right.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ponyrider2ponyrider2 Member Posts: 29
    OMG!!

    I really feel stupid, but very Fortunate! I ended up calling our mechanic to see if he had an idea of what the problem might be. I told him about the noise and that it started after they rotated my tires. He says right off, is it possible the lugs aren't tight? I said no way. So later just for the heck of it I go out and check the lugnuts. AND ALL of them are about ready to come off except for one which is tight! I know the angels have been watching me, I've been driving that car since Monday afternoon.

    So thank you for all your suggestions, hopefully after getting those tighten up the noise will go away.
    Have a good night, Feeling Blessed :) Ponyrider2
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Yikes! Good catch, anyway! Had you not been so persistent it could have turned out much worse.... Your dealership sounds about as good as the place from which I purchased my car: all smiles, friendly and helpful on the outside, but incompetent underneath. Rest well! *shudders*
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Do you mean that the driver's door only opens when you hit the keyless entry fob, or when you actually hit the lock/unlock button in the car? If the former, that's actually inherent in the fob - one touch opens driver's door only, and the second opens the rest of the doors and liftgate (if you have a wagon).

    Ed
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Spoke to SOA yesterday. A little confusion - the rep thought all the 2004's on should have a little sticker in the hood around the radiator area indicating the need for the additive. I know my XT doesn't have one, so maybe it post-dates August 04. He's also under the impression that the additive is used from the factory in **all** Subaru engines.

    He also stressed that "only one shot" per cooling system flush, so no additive added to an engine that already has additive in it.

    Hope to get a response from Patti on that one.

    I'm going on another 300mi round trip this weekend - should be enough to lower the tank another inch or so.

    Elissa's XT goes in the shop today I think. I hope she has some good news to post later today.

    Larry
  • jimmee_kjimmee_k Member Posts: 10
    I'm embarrassed to ask, but has anybody else had a problem replacing the little plastic sliding cover underneath the oil filter/drain plug? I have an 04 Forester XT w/ manual trans. The plastic "clips" don't seem to want to go back into their holes. The act of pushing a plastic clip into a tiny hole in a big plastic sheet which flexes quite a bit seems futile. I've been changing my oil for 20 years and never ran into something that seems so simple yet was so difficult (or impossible - I ended up taking the entire sliding cover off).
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Remove the pins from the sockets, then slide the sockets in, then the pins. You may be able to get there just by pushing the sockets back in with the pins extended. I've done both. Also doesn't hurt if you can reach your fingers over the back edge of the cover and hold it together when you start the first couple of pins.

    HTH
    Larry
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    Ed - xwesx has a '96 Legacy. All the doors are suppose to unlock with the remote, key in driver's door, or unlocking the driver's door from inside. They didn't go to the two step with an interior lock/unlock switch until '97.

    xwesx - My '96 Outback occasionally had problems not opening all the doors. I removed the driver's door panel and adjusted the actuator once. That fixed it for awhile but the problem returned intermittently.

    DaveM
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Indeed, Dave.

    My car does not have remotes, but yes, the problem is the same whether using the key or unlocking from the driver's door. I will give the adjustment a try. Thank you for the suggestions!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jimmee_kjimmee_k Member Posts: 10
    Larry, thanks for the help. I wasn't able to with the pins extended. I'll try again when I'm in the right frame of mind.

    -James
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    James - you're welcome - it does get easier after you do it a couple of times.

    The good news is, if any of the pins get lost, they're the same as the mud flap pins. Also, the big pin it swivels on is available as a separate item for very little money.

    Larry
  • jamiek1jamiek1 Member Posts: 6
    for the past few months my 03 Forrester with approx 28,000 has been making a rattle/grinding sound when i accelerate especially going up a hill...i have heard this noise before in my old cars that were in need of a tune up/ or i was not using a high enough octane...when i went in for one of my regular oil changes to Norwood Subaru they sent a mechanic out to "listen" but he could not hear anything..and and they said they could not hook it up to a diagnostic machine because there was no code showing...they did check that nothing (heat shield) was loose..i am going to take it to another dealer for its 30,000 tune up...but would like to hear if anyone has any ideas on this...
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I get this a lot with my '96 and I find that it helps significantly if I run some fuel injector cleaner through the fuel tank every 1500 miles or so.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    If it were mine, I'd do the following:

    1) change the fuel filter if not done recently - Subaru says its a 30K item, but if you let the tank dip down below a quarter fairly often, 30K might be too long.
    2) check the air filter - make sure its clean. Subaru also recommends this at 30k, I changed the one in my wife's OBW at 14K, and it was so dirty I could hold it up to the sun and barely "see the light".
    3) run two or three bottles of dry gas through the system, one after the other
    4) buy a really good bottle of injector cleaner - some folks like Techron, I've had good luck with the STP stuff that comes in the black bottle
    5) make sure you're buying a brand name gas, perhaps increase the octane to 89 for a couple of tankfuls.
    6) at 30K your due for plugs

    Also, as far as I know the OBDII system can store codes without flipping the CEL. Anyone know for sure?

    If you're a DIY'r items 1 and 2, using Subaru parts should cost you less than $40 and take about a half hour or so. A little longer if you decide to give the plenum chamber and duct work a good cleaning. I've never seen a dealer clean the air intakes, no matter how much crud is in them.

    HTH

    Larry
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Indeed! Nothing works better than a little maintenance.....

    I find however, that I have to use the injector cleaner IN ADDITION to regular maintenance on the fuel filter, air intake system, and spark plugs. Perhaps it has something to do with running 87 in it, but I cannot justify running 89 when it is $.20 more per gallon, I put on 600 miles/week or more, and the mileage differential is negligible.

    By the way, Larry, what is "DIY?"
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ozman62ozman62 Member Posts: 229
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Elissa's XT goes in the shop today I think. I hope she has some good news to post later today.

    Larry, I wish I had some good news for you but as we probably expected... They pressure tested the cooling system and no leaks, they said the sediment that shows is normal, they suggested the coolant loss I've experienced (about 1/2 cup for 500 miles of driving?) could be normal due to evaporation during transfer from reservoir/engine during warmup and cool down. They said it showed no signs of leakage and the smell could just be hot antifreeze smell coming from the reservoir cap as it moves around the system.

    I dunno, it stinks more and uses more antifreeze than any other car I've had that's for sure. But it all sounds plausible what they are saying too... *shrug* Maybe the turbo just is stinkier. I guess I'll have them look closer at it for my 15K service.

    They enjoyed the bagels.

    Elissa
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Hmm... You mention three very different types of noises...
    1) rattle
    2) grind
    3) the "knocking and pinging" noise typically associated with low octane gas, poor air/fuel mixture or timing too advanced.

    Typically the metallic rattling noise caused by a loose heat shield can be heard relative to the pressure of your foot on the accelerator, or all the time if it's bad... regardless of uphill/downhill. If it's your heat shield it can probably be adjusted/tightened for nearly nothing and isn't a mechanical problem just an annoyance.

    Grinding noise while going up hill - got me.

    Knocking and pinging might be what you're hearing although you don't call it this. It sounds like marbles in the gas tank and really does sound like knocking and pinging! Usually you'll only hear this under load (up hills). It can be caused by many things but I think it's the noise your spark plugs make when they are firing before the piston gets to the right place. That's called detonation and it's a general waste of energy (not to mention a good engine in the end) in my mind. Can be caused by your ignition timing being off or a bad fuel/air mixture. You should have the ignition timing checked, it may be too advanced. You should clean your fuel injectors with some additive. You should take a peak at your spark plugs for evidence of detonation. I see no reason to pay more for gas unless those other attempts fail and premium octane does it for you. Prolonged detonation causes damage to the spark plugs because they get way too hot, it will also cause engine damage and likely loss of power.

    Good luck and let us know!
    Elissa
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    If that much coolant loss is normal, I'm 6'2", and look like Brad Pitt. Okay, that ain't it.
    For the first 12k mine had zero loss of coolant. So it uses it as it wears in? Don't think so.

    As I was posting the other day, I'd about rather have a mediocre car with a great dealer as a great car with a mediocre dealer.... Oh well.

    Just don't make any long trips without a spare mix of antifreeze and distilled water.

    I'm hoping that when mine eventually does fail it will be somewhere safe.

    Larry
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    I'm only recommending it for a tank or two. Or perhaps just changing brands. The wife was buying brand X gas and getting a pretty good ping in the OBW. I had her switch to 89 octane from a national brand for 3 tankfuls. No more ping. Now we'll use a brand name gas at 87 octane for a while and see if it comes back. This just happened in the last month.

    If the timing gets that far off, it should be throwing a CEL as well as storing codes.
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