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Comments
2)IDLE. When I come out of gear (MT) and the car is at idle, it sits at about 500 rpms, then raises to about 1000rpms, then settles back to 500. Why is this happening?!?
Other than these two things, I love my Subie! Thanks in advance,
Chuck
DaveM
Cheers Pat.
I'm still concerned it is something more serious (voltage regulation?) but dunno what to do, other than watch and wait.
Karl
Great forum! I am mostly a lurker and I post every now and then.
If anybody could help me out, I will greatly appreciate it.
I have an 02 OB with about 41K miles on it. Sometime near 37,500 miles the 'Check Engine' light came on. It stayed on for about 900 miles and it went away. Now it comes on and off every now and then.
When it came on for the first time we were driving from Fla back to VA. Mileage did seem to improve a little bit. Maybe it is just my imagination.
At any rate, I am guessing that it could be the PCV or O sensor. If it is one of these items, does anybody know if the Gold warranty covers them?
Any other possibilities?
I will create another entry about my terrible experience with Farrish Subaru in Fairfax VA. I was warned by my neighboor but I figure that warranty work will be safe and hassle free. What a mistake! More later.
Thanks in advance for your input
-juice
John
Steve
Folks, I have a 2004 Forester XS Premium AT that is making light pinging from the engine under all loads. Sometimes it is there, sometimes not. Dealer has confirmed the problem and has been talking to SOA only to be told (after three weeks) that this is normal and a 'feature' of the 2.5 L engine. Problem started back at about 8k miles and is slowly getting worse (20k now). Premium gas (= expensive in CA) helps but doesn't eliminate the problem.
It occurs most often in any of the following situations
* changing from 3 to 4 gear at low speeds/load 30-50 mph
* A/C on
* 2-3 people in the vehicle (embarrassing)
* gentle hills
* when air is warm outside
* getting on the gas at low RPM (<2k) before the AT kicks down Dealer checked that the ECU is up to date and of course it's not possible to adjust the timing manually. What should I do next? I'm worried that this will lead to problems down the road (no pun intended). Thanks. Garrett.
seems that the jump in my tach reading at idle is maybe related to the temp gauge reading a little hot. I was on my way home from hockey practice last night, and not half a mile into the trip, the tach jumped to 1000 while sitting at a light. I listened carefully, and definitely
heard the whirr of the fan which had kicked on. Why the fan is on that early in a ride is beyond me, but perhaps that adds some info
to the temp gauge reading hot? I plan to call the dealer today and see if they will address this Saturday when the car goes in for non-
mechanical "we owe" items.
A nagging question: I went to teh dealer Monday to drop something off, and while there asked if they could give me a printout of what they did on the 30k service so I could use it to start my file of service records. After 10-15 minutes of waiting, someone finally told me that they were having some trouble with the computer, and is
there any reason that I couldn't just get teh record this Saturday when I come back in. I agreed, but after a few days to think about
it, I am wondering if they really did not do much of anything but told me they did a full 30k service, and now they are in a bind because I am asking for a record that they do not have or do not want to show me. Thoughts?
Thanks
Chuck
I am wondering if your knock sensor has died. It is a little black ring structure bolted to the top of the block on the drivers side towards the back, under the intake.
Greg - you listening? What was your OBW doing when you had to have yours replaced????
Steve
Cheers Pat.
something more than a knock sensor is wrong with this outback I'd wager...
~c
supposed to be screwed up it made no difference to the performance other than throw a CEL every so often. once it was replaced no more CEL. And yes I agree it is more than a knock sensor here.But the post I was replying to was a Forester not outback.
Cheers Pat.
~c
Cheers Pat.
While there, I finally got a copy of the 30k service they did to prepare teh car for sale. I compared it to the Subaru maintenance interval recommendations. Everything matched, except my dealer does not replace brake fluid. I showed them the print out of what Subaru calls for, and they said that every dealer gets to create their own 30k mile service package, and this dealer does not include brake fluid change in the package.
Strike anyone else as weird?!?
Chuck
As for your brake fluid flush, I AM surprised they didn't do that. Brake fluid degrades as it ages and as it blackens and gets moisture in it, it works less effectively, making your braking less effective. It's safe to have clean new brake fluid. You should have it done wether they do it or someone esle does.
Good Luck!
Elissa
Check your warranty. Some emissions components have as much as an 8 yr. 80,000 mi. warranty. If the dealer wants you to pay, check to be sure it is not under the emissions warranty.
Please post in only one forum?
Thanks,
Jim
Bmahr
BAD IDEA! The washer reservoir needs to be moved to change the plugs! Step zero became "drain the reservoir".
Other than that, the change went very smoothly. Thanks in part, I'm sure, to the anti-seize and dielectric grease I used the last time.
Colin - seeing the gap on the old plugs, I'll now change them every 30k per Subaru specs.
Jim
No codes set and no check engine light. Dealer confirmed there is a problem - heard the pinging - but says there is nothing they can do, as advised by SOA.
I'll call SOA myself and see what they have to say.
Thanks for the reply.
Garrett.
Deadeye
But - when she pulled into the dealer this morning, the engine was revving over 1500 in drive and over 2000 in park. She said she was driving down the road at 55 with her foot off the gas. Accelerated from stop by just letting her foot off the brake..... very scary. When the car was shut off and restarted the idle was back to normal. Anyone else seen this? The dealership has her car for a couple of days for the engine noise and said they'd check it out.
I'll let everyone know about the high Aluminum and engine hammering make out.
Larry
It's just my experience in many years of working on my own vehicles, and no, nothing "bad" will happen if you don't strictly adhere to it. It's more a best practices/ideal type of thing.
~Colin
I took delivery of an '05 XT about a month ago. The cruise control light starts flashing at spontaneous times at which time the the CC is unusable.
The only fix is to stop the car & turn off the ignition, resetting it. The 1st time it occurred I presumed I had,
as the manual suggested, hit the CC switch while tuning on the ignition. [non-permissible content removed]. It goes out at random times whether the CC is on or not. (When it is on, of course, you suddenly decelrate.)
I took it to the dealer knowing in my mind that being an intermittent problem, they would find nothing. Sure enough, they said "the computer" showed no problem. Hell, there must be no problem! Next I am going to ask for a fix or a refund of the added cost of the cruise control. I'll give them one more chance before I whine to Subaru. They seem pretty responsive since they DO have a great product (I've had an '02 wrx for 3.5 years with NO problems) and wish to maintain that reputation.
Please let me know what your outcome was/is.
thanks,
Steve
So.Lake Tahoe, CA (snow & Subaru country)
so it's hardly the most reliable engine subaru has ever built-- and in fact I would definitely advise against owning a 96-99 2.5L DOHC Subaru-- but it falls way short of the necessary quality or safety issues to result in a recall.
show me the law where the vehicle is legally required to perform beyond the warranty period?
~Colin
Jim
They did however actually hear the front diffy noise I've been complaining about. It's loud enough from 40-70mph to disrupt a normal conversation. They're going to replace the auto-transmission under warranty.
So far I'm batting 1 for 3, with at least one more go-round on the engine noise before I give it up.
Glad they're replacing it under warranty, but still, not quite 28k doesn't say much for the tranny.
More to follow ......
Larry
Can anyone please point me to the link and any other info about this? I know if I can't give the wife a definite something regarding the stuck acceleration then she'll never drive the car off the lot. Something about fear of death......
TIA
Larry
DaveM
Larry
No wear on the rotors so i put the new pads on boy they went on so easy too . Checked the rear brakes and they all have the same wear as the front . So I guess I'll be changing the back ones soon . Went back to wear the car was parked and ther lying on the ground staring at me was my brake pad . Ohh by the way the car is a 02 outback with 52k miles on her .
Mike
Glad you are safe!
I've never heard of this happening before (on any car), it'd be a good idea to get the brakes checked by the dealer. I didn't think there was enough room around the calipers and mounting to permit this to happen.
Jim
That is an amazing story! I too have posted about how my pads seem to 'cold weld' to the rotors, but never imagined for a minute that when they broke free that they could actually get thrown out. I assume that your backing plate stayed and just the friction material separated (?), or did the entire assembly get chucked?
Steve
Mike
Jason
http://www.broquet.com.sg/__48256B8E0014D9E3.nsf
-Dave
The one in my Forester XT has never had a whine at all, except at one point in the mid 70mph range - I believe its been noted that the pinion gear can make noise at a certain point in the RPM/MPH range of most of the Subaru models.
HTH
Larry
In the end there is no such thing as cheap HP. it is usually relatively expensive to attain even modest gains.
Cheers Pat.
-Wes-