Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

kellerc4 · February 2005

1) the temp guage seems to read a little hot. I am coming from a Honda Accord that was always about 1/3 of the way up the guage from cool to hot. The Outback reads about 2/3 of the way up. Is this normal, or indicitative of some kind of problem?

2)IDLE. When I come out of gear (MT) and the car is at idle, it sits at about 500 rpms, then raises to about 1000rpms, then settles back to 500. Why is this happening?!?

Other than these two things, I love my Subie! Thanks in advance,

Chuck

dcm61 · February 2005

Chuck - The temp. guage on my '03 OBW A/T reads just below half when warm.

DaveM

xwesx · February 2005

Same here on my '96... just (and I mean just) below half. Running @ 2/3 may indicate that there is a problem, but I am not sure why it would run steady there... maybe someone put a higher thermostat in it? A 190 instead of the standard 180?

hondafriek · February 2005

I have a 2001 Legacy GT wagon and my temperature reads dead on in the middle when hot.

Cheers Pat.

nospam · February 2005

Did you get a resoultion for the trasmission problem. I have a 2000 legacy outback and seem to have the same problem

63corvette · February 2005

Please make SURE that you emergency brake is COMPLETELY OFF. If it is on only one click, you can drive OK, but it will prevent your Daytime Running Lights from functioning. (Note that when you park, the lights stay on until you pull the emergency brake handle.)

widdershinz · February 2005

Follow-up: I took the car to the garage, and they agreed that it is strange for both DRL (thanks for the definition) bulbs to blow at once. But, absent any further evidence of a problem, they just replaced the bulbs.

I'm still concerned it is something more serious (voltage regulation?) but dunno what to do, other than watch and wait.

Karl

yuyax · February 2005

Hi,

Great forum! I am mostly a lurker and I post every now and then.

If anybody could help me out, I will greatly appreciate it.

I have an 02 OB with about 41K miles on it. Sometime near 37,500 miles the 'Check Engine' light came on. It stayed on for about 900 miles and it went away. Now it comes on and off every now and then.

When it came on for the first time we were driving from Fla back to VA. Mileage did seem to improve a little bit. Maybe it is just my imagination.

At any rate, I am guessing that it could be the PCV or O sensor. If it is one of these items, does anybody know if the Gold warranty covers them?

Any other possibilities?

I will create another entry about my terrible experience with Farrish Subaru in Fairfax VA. I was warned by my neighboor but I figure that warranty work will be safe and hassle free. What a mistake! More later.

Thanks in advance for your input

ateixeira · February 2005

Call 800-SUBARU3 to ask what the warranty will cover. Normally dealers charge an hour of labor to run diagnostics on a CEL.

-juice

once_for_all · February 2005

this is a stretch, but it almost sounds like a fuel cap sealing issue. Others have indicated that perhaps it gets worn out.

John

fibber2 · February 2005

If you want to skip the dealer, try one of the parts stores like AutoZone. Many will read out and clear the codes in hopes that you will buy your parts from them. A reasonable approach that often works. Of what you mentioned, I would think that Oxygen sensors would be covered, but something like a PCV is a maintenance item and would be at your expense. The gas cap seal is also a very real possibility, and cheap enough as well.

Steve

garrett · February 2005

I know this problem has been discussed here before but I didn't see anyone resolve this issue.

Folks, I have a 2004 Forester XS Premium AT that is making light pinging from the engine under all loads. Sometimes it is there, sometimes not. Dealer has confirmed the problem and has been talking to SOA only to be told (after three weeks) that this is normal and a 'feature' of the 2.5 L engine. Problem started back at about 8k miles and is slowly getting worse (20k now). Premium gas (= expensive in CA) helps but doesn't eliminate the problem.

It occurs most often in any of the following situations

* changing from 3 to 4 gear at low speeds/load 30-50 mph

* A/C on

* 2-3 people in the vehicle (embarrassing)

* gentle hills

* when air is warm outside

* getting on the gas at low RPM (<2k) before the AT kicks down Dealer checked that the ECU is up to date and of course it's not possible to adjust the timing manually. What should I do next? I'm worried that this will lead to problems down the road (no pun intended). Thanks. Garrett.

kellerc4 · February 2005

UPDATE: After some more careful observation, it

seems that the jump in my tach reading at idle is maybe related to the temp gauge reading a little hot. I was on my way home from hockey practice last night, and not half a mile into the trip, the tach jumped to 1000 while sitting at a light. I listened carefully, and definitely

heard the whirr of the fan which had kicked on. Why the fan is on that early in a ride is beyond me, but perhaps that adds some info

to the temp gauge reading hot? I plan to call the dealer today and see if they will address this Saturday when the car goes in for non-

mechanical "we owe" items.

A nagging question: I went to teh dealer Monday to drop something off, and while there asked if they could give me a printout of what they did on the 30k service so I could use it to start my file of service records. After 10-15 minutes of waiting, someone finally told me that they were having some trouble with the computer, and is

there any reason that I couldn't just get teh record this Saturday when I come back in. I agreed, but after a few days to think about

it, I am wondering if they really did not do much of anything but told me they did a full 30k service, and now they are in a bind because I am asking for a record that they do not have or do not want to show me. Thoughts?

Thanks

Chuck

fibber2 · February 2005

Garrett,

I am wondering if your knock sensor has died. It is a little black ring structure bolted to the top of the block on the drivers side towards the back, under the intake.

Greg - you listening? What was your OBW doing when you had to have yours replaced????

Steve

hondafriek · February 2005

I had the knock sensor replaced last year, it kept throwing a CEL. other than that I never noticed anything different.

Cheers Pat.

locke2c · February 2005

that's because during normal operation of a healthy engine, it's doing nothing.

something more than a knock sensor is wrong with this outback I'd wager...

~c

hondafriek · February 2005

yep, I realise that it is normally doing nothing, my point was though, that when It was
supposed to be screwed up it made no difference to the performance other than throw a CEL every so often. once it was replaced no more CEL. And yes I agree it is more than a knock sensor here.But the post I was replying to was a Forester not outback.

Cheers Pat.

locke2c · February 2005

hehe, oops ok so it was a Forester.

~c

hondafriek · February 2005

Colin your reference about now we need titles went right over my head. I guess since I have always typed a title of sorts it just did not register.

Cheers Pat.

kellerc4 · February 2005

So I went to the dealer today to drop off the car. I asked them to look into the car running hot, and also the fact that I got less than 20mpg on my first tank of gas despite perfect tire pressure and very conservative shifting.

While there, I finally got a copy of the 30k service they did to prepare teh car for sale. I compared it to the Subaru maintenance interval recommendations. Everything matched, except my dealer does not replace brake fluid. I showed them the print out of what Subaru calls for, and they said that every dealer gets to create their own 30k mile service package, and this dealer does not include brake fluid change in the package.

Strike anyone else as weird?!?

Chuck

edunnett · February 2005

I took my mom's used '01 Forester into the dealer where she purchased it at 33K miles for it's 30K mile service (at, uhm, 50K miles, cuz she incorrectly ASSUMED the dealer did the service) and when I picked it up and reviewed the printout of service performed I asked if they included the Cooling Conditioner that's part of the WWF Campaign (head gasket recall thingy) when they were flushing/refilling the cooling system. They replied that the campaign did not apply to this car and they did not do it. I asked them to double-check on the recalls by the car's VIN and sure enough - ooops - they neglected to service the car for a recall. Ugh. Now, had we come in at 60K miles with a blown head gasket because a car they serviced and sold all its life was never given the recall svc, I'm sure my mom would be paying out $2500 for parts and labor. *shaking head* I ALWAYS check that the service place does the work they are supposed to.

As for your brake fluid flush, I AM surprised they didn't do that. Brake fluid degrades as it ages and as it blackens and gets moisture in it, it works less effectively, making your braking less effective. It's safe to have clean new brake fluid. You should have it done wether they do it or someone esle does.
Good Luck!
Elissa

harrys1 · February 2005

Your car, like every other car '96 or newer, has OBDII which is onboard diagnostics. Any OBDII reader can tell you why your engine light came on. The code stays in your computer even if the light has gone off as it will if 2 drive cycles go by within the trouble existing. Autozones in my area will read the code for you free of charge and will tell you what the code means. Do get it checked out. Some problems can cause your catalytic converter to go which is expensive. Also, if you have a trouble code, you will fail emissions testing.

Check your warranty. Some emissions components have as much as an 8 yr. 80,000 mi. warranty. If the dealer wants you to pay, check to be sure it is not under the emissions warranty.

jfl · February 2005

Chuck,

Please post in only one forum?

Thanks,

Jim

bmahr · February 2005

I have the same problem with my 2001 outback wagon. Did flushing the brake lines help?

Bmahr

jfl · February 2005

So...I'm in the garage planning to change the plugs. I see a bottle of washer fluid and the empty reservoir and fill it.

BAD IDEA! The washer reservoir needs to be moved to change the plugs! Step zero became "drain the reservoir".

Other than that, the change went very smoothly. Thanks in part, I'm sure, to the anti-seize and dielectric grease I used the last time.

Colin - seeing the gap on the old plugs, I'll now change them every 30k per Subaru specs.

Jim

garrett · February 2005

Steve,

No codes set and no check engine light. Dealer confirmed there is a problem - heard the pinging - but says there is nothing they can do, as advised by SOA.

I'll call SOA myself and see what they have to say.

Thanks for the reply.

Garrett.

deadeye5 · February 2005

JFL Which Model Subie are you referring to ??

Deadeye

lfdal · February 2005

Dropped the wife's 03 OBW off for service the morning - this is the one where the engine Aluminum is 5X normal (10X what it is on my Forester)and the engine absolutely hammers under load for the 1st half-hour or so. The noise is quieter, but still audible even when thoroughly warmed. It sounds like its in the vicinity of the number 1 piston. It does not fit the pattern of piston slap where it gets louder when you rev and let off the throttle.

But - when she pulled into the dealer this morning, the engine was revving over 1500 in drive and over 2000 in park. She said she was driving down the road at 55 with her foot off the gas. Accelerated from stop by just letting her foot off the brake..... very scary. When the car was shut off and restarted the idle was back to normal. Anyone else seen this? The dealership has her car for a couple of days for the engine noise and said they'd check it out.

I'll let everyone know about the high Aluminum and engine hammering make out.

Larry

locke2c · February 2005

I always advocate using copper plugs and changing every 25,000 - 30,000 miles. Platinum last longer but they just don't spark as well. Iridium (original equipment in my car and probably the STi also, many sportbikes as well) also needs to be replaced pretty often.

It's just my experience in many years of working on my own vehicles, and no, nothing "bad" will happen if you don't strictly adhere to it. It's more a best practices/ideal type of thing.

~Colin

pudwhistle · February 2005

It's been 4 months since your post--has the cruise control situation been corrected?
I took delivery of an '05 XT about a month ago. The cruise control light starts flashing at spontaneous times at which time the the CC is unusable.
The only fix is to stop the car & turn off the ignition, resetting it. The 1st time it occurred I presumed I had,
as the manual suggested, hit the CC switch while tuning on the ignition. [non-permissible content removed]. It goes out at random times whether the CC is on or not. (When it is on, of course, you suddenly decelrate.)
I took it to the dealer knowing in my mind that being an intermittent problem, they would find nothing. Sure enough, they said "the computer" showed no problem. Hell, there must be no problem! Next I am going to ask for a fix or a refund of the added cost of the cruise control. I'll give them one more chance before I whine to Subaru. They seem pretty responsive since they DO have a great product (I've had an '02 wrx for 3.5 years with NO problems) and wish to maintain that reputation.
Please let me know what your outcome was/is.
thanks,
Steve
So.Lake Tahoe, CA (snow & Subaru country)

kellyg · February 2005

Well, well, from searching the internet I am not alone in this problem. My 98 outback with 75K miles now has a leaking headgasket. It looks like Subaru is helping people with 1999-20?? but what about us poor folks with older versions. This is a bummer. I think I will never buy another Subaru, when all along I said I wouldn't own anything other. This is ridiculous this is happening to so many people but nothing seems to be done about it.

kellyg · February 2005

Better check the head gasket, this seems to be a chronic Subaru problem, and if leaking would cause your car to run hot!

kellyg · February 2005

No such thing as a headgasket recall! I think Subaru better reconsider this before they are slammed with several class actions.

locke2c · February 2005

recall and class action suits? get real.

so it's hardly the most reliable engine subaru has ever built-- and in fact I would definitely advise against owning a 96-99 2.5L DOHC Subaru-- but it falls way short of the necessary quality or safety issues to result in a recall.

show me the law where the vehicle is legally required to perform beyond the warranty period?

~Colin

jfl · February 2005

2000 Legacy with 2.5L SOHC.

Jim

lfdal · February 2005

Well, they can't hear anything wrong with the engine. I'm going to insist on taking it for a roadtest with the mechanic. Couldn't replicate the sticking throttle either - not too surprised about that. That one's got the wife spooked.

They did however actually hear the front diffy noise I've been complaining about. It's loud enough from 40-70mph to disrupt a normal conversation. They're going to replace the auto-transmission under warranty.

So far I'm batting 1 for 3, with at least one more go-round on the engine noise before I give it up.

Glad they're replacing it under warranty, but still, not quite 28k doesn't say much for the tranny.

More to follow ......

Larry

lfdal · February 2005

I remember reading about a cable clamp that had to be installed on some models of Outbacks or Foresters accelerator or cruise control cables. But not which models, years, etc.

Can anyone please point me to the link and any other info about this? I know if I can't give the wife a definite something regarding the stuck acceleration then she'll never drive the car off the lot. Something about fear of death......

TIA

Larry

dcm61 · February 2005

Pretty sure that was for WRX only.

DaveM

lfdal · February 2005

Thanks Dave, Now that you mention that I seem to remember that's what it said as well.

Larry

mrk610 · February 2005

I went away for a week and when I went to move my car it acted like the parking brake was on . After a bout 10 sec it makes a load clunk and moves backwards. I then apply my brakes and they go to the floor, after pumping them I can stop the car . Now I have this god awfull grinding noise from the pass front side of the car . I drive home slowly and I'm thinking i know the pads are low but i didn't hear the squeal from the brakes when the pads get low . Get up the next day and thank heavens I still have my front brake kit I got last year. I pull the tires off and all the pads are the same thickness except for the inside pass side there is no pad at all.
No wear on the rotors so i put the new pads on boy they went on so easy too . Checked the rear brakes and they all have the same wear as the front . So I guess I'll be changing the back ones soon . Went back to wear the car was parked and ther lying on the ground staring at me was my brake pad . Ohh by the way the car is a 02 outback with 52k miles on her .

Mike

jfl · February 2005

Mike,

Glad you are safe!

I've never heard of this happening before (on any car), it'd be a good idea to get the brakes checked by the dealer. I didn't think there was enough room around the calipers and mounting to permit this to happen.

Jim

fibber2 · February 2005

Mike,

That is an amazing story! I too have posted about how my pads seem to 'cold weld' to the rotors, but never imagined for a minute that when they broke free that they could actually get thrown out. I assume that your backing plate stayed and just the friction material separated (?), or did the entire assembly get chucked?

Steve

rob_m · February 2005

Similar incident happened to my 99 GT 2 years ago. Driving across the parking lot at work, hit the brakes, heard a loud klunk and the pedal hit the floor. Right rear inner pad popped off. By the time I stopped the car, I destroyed the rotor. Rob M.

mrk610 · February 2005

Just the pad material got thrown out.The backing plate is held in with a clip so that stayed put . I was real lucky that I didn't put a groove in the rotor .I had a feeling something was wrong so I took the long way home all local roads and used the emerg brake to stop the car . The replacement was very easy and only took me about 2o mins per side. I called today and ordered the rear brake kit for the car .I order all my parts from Liberty Subaru very easy and fast shipping.

Mike

vanslam · February 2005

Hello i just bought a new 05 forester X AT I have noticed that the tranny seems to shift harder then the Toyota cars i have owned and also there is a whine in what sounds like the transmission. Does this sound normal?? Are Subaru tranny's a littler heavy duty then the Toyota corolls's and camery's i have owned in the past??

Jason

hypov · February 2005

Anyone hear of this product?

http://www.broquet.com.sg/__48256B8E0014D9E3.nsf

-Dave

lfdal · February 2005

Could be the front diff. They just replaced the one in my wife's OBW with slightly less than 28k on it. It was slightly noisy from the day we bought it and just got steadily louder.

The one in my Forester XT has never had a whine at all, except at one point in the mid 70mph range - I believe its been noted that the pinion gear can make noise at a certain point in the RPM/MPH range of most of the Subaru models.

HTH

Larry

hondafriek · February 2005

Dave, I am always deeply suspicious of these sort of add on. Most of them have been proven to be nothing more than snake oil.

In the end there is no such thing as cheap HP. it is usually relatively expensive to attain even modest gains.

Cheers Pat.

rob_m · February 2005

Same here - just the pad material got thrown out. I was not as lucky as you. I was at work, 50 miles from home, at night. My ride home got expensive that night! Rob M.

xwesx · February 2005

I have noticed, for the past 6 months or so, that there is a distinct whine emanating from somewhere along the front of the engine. I am 100% sure it is coming from a pulley or pulley-driven device, but I cannot isolate it. At first I thought it was the water pump, but after I replaced it (yes, the pump was bad, but it was not the sole source of the noise), the whine persisted. Can anyone offer some pointers? The pitch of the whine is in perfect unison with the engine speed. I am tempted to say it must be a pulley on the timing belt, but it could also be the A/C, alternator, or power steering. Maybe the next step is to pull the accessory belts and add them back one at a time to isolate? I appreciate any suggestions; I would prefer not to let this one go to the point of being stranded at -20F again.

-Wes-

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