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Comments
I need rotors and pads for my '02 OBW (H4 auto). No complaints about general performance of the pads - decent compromise between cold and hot stopping, so I may just order another set. But can we do better on the rotors? Way too much problems with runout (thickness variation, etc.).
Steve
Just my 0.02.
Larry
Perhaps the oil pump failed because the oil level was too low?
-juice
Larry
From all that I have read it seems to be a sensor problem, not sure why resetting things seems to correct the problem for a few days? Any idea?
I'd read out the codes on an OBDII scanner to give you a starting point.
Steve
Just this week, I changed the spark plugs & wires on my 01 Outback Legacy (2.5). This was my first time doing this, and got some good advice from this forum...Everything seemed to go very smoothly...had to remove the battery and the washer fluid resevoir to access the driver side plugs, so I took care to make sure the battery was removed carefully, and made sure I kept track of all the leads.
So I reconnected everything, and the car won't start. No power at all whatsoever. Turn the key, dead silence, no lights or antyhing.
So I went back and sanded off all the contacts on the battery poles, the leads and the ground contact. In my zeal to make sure the connections were tight, I broke the grounding bolt head off, leaving the stem in place. Not too big a deal, as I was able to screw down the two grounding leads onto nearby bolts going into the chassis, and I made sure to sand down the paint on those, so there are nice clear contacts.
Still nothing. So I took out a voltmeter, and tested the battery. Totally fine. The ground leads are fully grounded as well. I chacked all the smaller fuses in the hood fuse block, and they were fine. I looked closely at the larger fuses, and they also appearewd to be intact.
So I'm at a bit of a loss to explain why the car isnt starting, though it's clearly with the battery it seems. I'm planning on trying a jump start next....
Any ideas?
Thanks
-Jon Keegan
Brooklyn, NY
Probably either a connnection off the positive terminal, the wire itself, or a main fuse. Work your way from the terminal out. Play detective.
Jumping won't help if it is a poor connection, wire, or fuse. Jumping helps only if the battery is down.
John
Finally - this may sound a bit far fetched, but did you connect the (+) terminal to (+) cable and (-) terminal to (-) cable?
I cannot trace much on the positive lead, since it just wraps around to the back of the engine...
Thanks for the help and suggestions!
-Jon Keegan
Thanks.
..Mike Smith
..Mike
So you have an OBDII scanner? Or did you borrow one?
Do you have a Chase Subaru credit card? If so just use Subaru Bucks and let the dealer figure it out.
-juice
I borrowed an OBDII scanner. What a handy tool! Correcting my earlier post, P0304 is misfire on cylinder 4 (not 3).
Coil pack lug (?) for cylinder 4 was corroded. I sanded off the corrosion, did my best on the plug wire, erased the error codes, and it's running ok. I'll replace the spark plug wires and see how it goes.
After 61,000 miles, I also need to replace the brake pads so I'll buy some OEM ones while at the dealer.
Nope, no Subaru credit card. When I reviewed it, Subaru Bucks expired after 5 years, which I dislike. I only buy cars every 10-15 years and don't buy enough parts so use the rewards before expiration.
Do you have your brake pad changing photos online?
Is this the place for maintenance questions or elsewhere?
..Mike
..Mike
I haven't done pads on the Forester, even though it's 8 years old and has 80k miles. They're quiet, too. If it ain't broke...
The pads are OK.
I did the pads on the Miata, not too hard. The rear discs on that was tough because of the way the parking brake is set, but I think Subies are different.
Subaru Bucks - you'd be surprised. We got hit, and used Subaru Bucks for the body shop, then kept the money the other person's insurance gave us. Ka-ching! $300.
We have another $300 accumulated.
Hopefully someone else can come up with a URL because I'll be right behind you, most likely.
-juice
I've got a hair under 1/8" on the front and a hair over 1/8" on the rear.
You documented several procedures (cabin filter maybe?). Do you still have those pages?
..Mike
..Mike
-Frank
Then I had photos with another host, I forget the name. It was free at first. Then they started charging. I actually paid, I was sick and tired of uploading 600 pics, but still they went out of business. I think that was PhotoPoint.
Finally, I went to ImageStation, I figure Sony owns them so they'll stick around. But even they require registration and prevent hot-links to the pics. That limits the usefullness.
Lots of bad luck, and I don't have the energy to re-create the exact same photo library for a 4th time. Instead I send pics to anyone working on a particular item. Tow hitches are a popular item, for instance.
I haven't done brakes, though.
-juice
I feel safer knowing you regularly defend DC.
..Mike
..Mike
Bob
You can try putting some silicone grease on those plug wire connections (at both ends) to ward off corrosion. I have a tube of Honda Shin-etsu grease and have been using it for all kinds of stuff like that (it's actually recommended to conditions the seals on frameless windows like Subaru uses).
Craig
..Mike
..Mike
He also had pretty good instructions on changing spark plugs. Like don't forget the dielectric grease! (If you plan to change your own plugs a second time.) :P
Jim
CRaig
Len
Thanks all.
Joel
Sounds fair to me, at least.
-juice
What is wrong with Subaru in this area. My two previous (one current) cars -Mazda and Toyota did not have this probmlem. I like the car. I hate the CEL problem and Subaru's apparent inability to realize that there is a problem. Back to the dealer next week.
Who do I complain to. Is there such a person as an area service representative who might be aware of a common problem?
FWIW, our Mazda 626 was riddled with CEL issues and they ripped us off for an oxygen sensor ($200+ just for the part!). :lemon:
My dad took a Camry to Belize and it caught fire on the highway. I think he may have missed a recall since he was overseas, but still.
Some times you're lucky, other times you're not.
-juice
I would not consider it an emergency repair unless a seal failed inside the timing housing. As for the oil that is already sprayed all over the place and the smoke.... either let it lie (if you must) or spray it down with brake cleaner (or other heavy duty oil solvent) to take off the majority of the residue. You can have a lot of smoke (again, been there done that) w/ no fire, but watch out for the unfriendly cigarette butt sauntering down the highway! Either way, you'll have some smoking until all the volatiles are gone - that is inevitable at this point. The most important thing is to nip the leak and not over react concerning the possible extent of the problem - it is better to isolate the real source(s).
8/00 - 21,496 mi
2/01 - 30,209 mi
4/01 - 33,260 mi
10/01 - 40,977 mi
and currently...
11/05 - 102,000 mi
My question is what is my recourse in regards to the lemon law or whatever. I think this is ridiculous that these bearings have to be replaced so much. I have had many vehicles with over 100,000 miles that never needed wheel bearings replaced. I would like any and all help and/or suggestions in this matter. thanks
HTH
Larry
Al
Craig
I would try to find that bulletin and print it out and take it to them. Or call 800-SUBARU3 and make sure they get the info to the dealer. This is pretty silly.
-juice
I'm new to this message board (registered today)... not much of a computer/internet geek. Where do I find this bulletin you mentioned??
Al
In high school I remember a guy that used leaded gas in his car, and the cat choked (of course). A mistake like that is user error and would not be covered.
But unless you put something besides unleaded gas in the tank, I don't see why it would not be covered. Call 800-SUBARU3 and ask them why they expect you to have to pay.
-juice
as far as whether you can replace it yourself.. what DIY repairs have you done successfully in the past? if none, I wouldn't start right out with this particular job. it's not that expensive to have done by a shop-- I wouldn't use a dealer, though.
~Colin
That happened to my Miata. Mushy pedal, and I was losing fluid. The brake slave cylinder is a hollow cylinder, and a piston with a rubber seal is pushed in or out by the brake fluid sent by the master cylinder.
My seals were worn, so they leaked. I got a slave cylinder rebuild kit for $10.74 from NAPA and bled the system, and it's been fine for 2 years. So let's *HOPE* that's all it is.
I took photos, but of course a Miata might be a bit different, plus it doesn't even have ABS. Any how, take a look at this album, ImageStation requires registration but it's worth it:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=4289876491
I have comments with each photo that explains what I was doing. You gotta be careful bleeding the system to not let air in it, that's why I use that little jar in the first pic.
Pic 3 shows where it's mounted on the Miata, again yours could be totally different. 2 and 4 show the slave cylinder itself, so you know more or less what it looks like.
Finally, pic 5 is the brake master cylinder reservoir. I used a turkey baster to remove the old fluid, added new, then bled it.
Please be careful, your brakes are your lifeline. Test it more than once before you drive off on public roads.
Good luck.
-juice