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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • lspivalspiva Member Posts: 49
    IdahoDoug,

    I think I knew how to test oil level (13 years of driving experience and owning 6 cars) until I came across double standard on Subaru.

    My confusion questions regarding oil level messarment was base on Subaru manual, On one page that states that oil level needs to be tested when engine is cold. But on another page it is said that engine oil level can be tested on a warm engine just to allowed it to rest and to drain oil back down in a pan.

    Regarding my statement that "I never saw a new car consuming oil", it is true. I owned brand-new 95 Tercel, 97 Altima, 03 Corolla and did not see any oil consumption on those cars. The only car that I had to add a quarter of oil per 1k miles was my 1974 Audi Fox with 425K miles on it.

    I provided a number of the miles on my original message. Car is currently is only 7 months old and has 4.7k miles. I do check of all car fluids once every two weeks after car has been run and allow it to cool down for about an hour. Every time, my readings were fine, except to the moment when I decided to check oil level on the cold engine.

    Thanks for your respond to my matter. Leo
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    I've been through the OCD school of reading the dipstick on my 01 Legacy. To say the least it is tricky to get an accurate reading. I would be less likely to suspect undo oil consumption than to think you might be getting an inaccurate reading from the dipstick. Checking the oil on the same level surface and at the same engine temp is imperative. The lest bit of unlevel surface that the car is parked on can throw the reading off. I have found the most consistent reading after the engine is warm and then allowed to sit for a good 10 minutes to allow drain down. And like you I have inadvertantly added more oil when infact the crankcase was full.

    bit
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Get the schedule online at subaru.com. Select Subaru Owner > Subaru Care > Maintenance Schedule.

    Check Subaruparts.com (select catalog) if you need to purchase an owner's manual.

    Note: The maintenance schedule might be a separate booklet (than the owner's manual). It's probably easier to print it from Subaru.com.

    Jim
  • ochsskochssk Member Posts: 52
    I'd try the EGR valve first. We had a similar problem on our '95 Saturn and a new EGR valve solved the problem. When I had the problem someone said the EGR could be cleaned too.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    EGR valve is the same for all EJ series... here's a good thread on NASIOC (formerly the iClub) about it.

    click me

    -Colin
  • scherbergerscherberger Member Posts: 7
    Ken ,

    The sound seems to be coming from the dash ( near the windshield)

    Thanks for the information. I'll give both suggestions a try!
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    shyaa! Colin kinda talked me out of that upgrade, but when the time comes to redo the rotors I figure that's not a bad time to go for it. Easier to justify the cost then.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    If you plan ahead, you probably can cut down the cost of the upgrade by buying used parts from some i-clubber that went for a four-pot upgrade. The major chunk of the upgrade cost comes from having to buy new caliper brackets. While used rotors would make me a little nervous, the brackets shouldn't be a problem.

    Ken
  • alssubarualssubaru Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Outback that I have had for about a year. During cool and cold weather a noise that sounds like a valve tap occurs when the car is accelerating. It seems that the colder it is the louder the tap. Its not a valve tap because it only does it when moving. After driving a few minutes the noise goes away. It is very loud and very noticeable and makes the car sound like terrible. The noise has been in the car from day one. The dealer says that this is a normal noise caused by something in the all wheel drive system. I have talked to 5 other Outback owners and none of them have this problem. Are you aware of this problem and is there a fix that the dealer should be taking care of?
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Wow you have the same noise as my 02outback. I have had it looked at by the dealer and the district service rep . They say that it might be the dreaded piston slap problem that plagued the phase 1 2.5l engine. They say that they have not had any problems with the phase2 2.5l engine which we have. The DSR said he could probable get SOA to change the short block ,but that has not always worked .I have not had it done yet ,because they say that there is no engine damage being done. I have also have read some scary stories from other owners who have had it done,and have had loads of problems afterwards. I have done alot of research on the internet about this subject. Some owners with our engine have had the timing belt tensioner changed because of the exact same noise .Some have had the noise cured by that fix and some have not . When you take it to the dealer have them show you the technical service bulletin from SOA on this subject. I am hoping that mine is the timing belt tensioner. Which they will not replace for me ,because there is no noticeable engine performance difference.
    Hope this helps . Let me know how you made out.

    Mike k
    02 base obw
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    I was reading the owner's manual and the numbers kinda caught my attention.
    So I dugged up my '98 OB manual to verify them.

    Old:
    2.5l engine = 4.7 US qt / 4.5 litre
    2.2l engine = 4.2 US qt / 4.0 litre

    New:
    2.5l engine = 4.2 US qt / 4.0 litre
    2.0l engine = 4.8 US qt / 4.5 litre

    What did they change in the 2.5l engine?
    How come the 2.0l engine needs more than the 2.5l engine?

    Even the coolant is up by a US qt on the 2.5l.
    The 2.0l takes 8 US qt.

    -Dave
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Pardon the confusion. What I meant to point out was that you say the oil was changed, but do not tell us if YOU changed the oil and therefore verified what the oil level was or if someone else changed the oil and YOU checked and verified it was indeed at the proper level. If not, then when you next checked the oil (at 4.7k miles) you really would not know if the engine consumed oil, or if it was not properly filled all the way at the 1.8k oil change.

    For my money, the absolute best way to check the oil, especially with the pesky Sube flat 4 oil pan is this: At the end of the day, pull the dipstick out. The next morning, wipe it clean (again) and insert it fully, then pull it out to get a "clean" reading. It's just my speculation, but I think the Subaru dipstick housing is quite narrow and sloped and tends not to drain the oil trapped against one side of the dipstick. Removing the stick overnight (or for an hour, I guess) seems to help ensure the oil is out of the dipstick housing tube. That seems to be the source of the peskiness in my opinion.

    Leo, I apologize for sounding a bit harsh in my earlier post.

    IdahoDoug
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the extra .5 is the filter, I'd bet a dollar on it.

    the 2.0L probably has an oil cooler, that's the additional volume for it. or it could just be a different sump.

    -Colin
  • niksdadniksdad Member Posts: 4
    I own '96 Outback with mucho winter miles (NW-Washington state) this past year I have noticed that after I had a wheel alignment done the car drifts to the left. I had the tires re-rotated twice and no help? any ideas. Going back to a previous post about phase 1 2.5l engines, I had a nightmare of a problem right at 70,000. miles, coming over Fourth of July Pass in Idaho my then pregnant wife and I suffered a con-rod failure that started with a knocking sound and ended with a long walk(no-cell coverage around) to town. SOA dsr was not very helpful, I was talked out of the extended warranty by the dealer here in Bellingham, WA he said they were just cash cows and we'll see you at 100k miles. $5,000. later i am still leery about pushing the car up hills to this day.
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Regarding you engine. Was that the 1st time it started to knock or did it always make the sound . Just wondering if at 70k thats what I have to look forward too.

    mike k
  • niksdadniksdad Member Posts: 4
    to mike, no it just started knocking, I guess I jinxed myself because I had no more than 50 miles before told my wife that we were getting great mileage and the wind was behind us returning westward. I was told by several Scobie dealers/servicemen that they had never heard of an engine going at that mileage or one that was not abused. I am looking for more info that was posted here about the Phase 1 engines. I would not worry about any knock that doesn't persist or result in loss of power. Other than the fight to get SOA to help out as they push in Drive Magazine and at the dealerships, I would have no reservations about getting another one.
  • masanmasan Member Posts: 77
    Now I'm confused. 10W30 would protect better?

    The manual for the '03 Forester indicates that 5w30 is preferred. I wasn't pleased when I noticed on the window sticker that my dealer apparently used 10W40 at the first oil change. I took it to the dealer because I thought they would follow Subaru recommendations.

    I'm changing to Mobil 1 synthetic this week at 6,500 miles, and I was planning to go with what the manual recommends, 5W30.
  • trek2002trek2002 Member Posts: 17
    02 OBW H4 Auto, 10.5k miles. A solid whistle sounds when the accelerator is depressed between 50-75mph. If the accelerator pedal is released the whistling immediately stops. The pinion bearing and Gear Ring has been replaced. Do other drivers experience this sound/whistle from their OBW H4-auto? Any suggestions on how to get

    Subaru to replace the differential that is making this unbearable noise/whistle?
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Dave/Colin - Doesn't oil circulate around the turbo as well? Yeah, there's also an oil cooler on the 2.0.

    masan - Most 10W30's will protect better than a 5W30. 5W30 is "preferred" because of slightly better fuel economy. If you're switching to synthetic, it probably doesn't matter as much.

    -Dennis
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Doesn't 5w30 protect better in cold weather? The lighter weight oil flows better at startup.

    --jay
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    The rule of thumb with oil is to choose the narrowest viscosity range that meets your needs. The bigger the spread between the first and second number (ie. 5 vs. 30) the more additives the oil requires to keep that difference. Over time, the additives break down and the actual range diminishes. By this reasoning, 10W30 protects better than 5W30 over the relevant operating temperature range.

    Since 5W30 flows slighlty better at cold temperatures, it should protect better in colder climates. Also, it should work better with newer engines since the tolerances are tighter.

    Ken
  • toughtifftoughtiff Member Posts: 2
    I own a 97 outback limited which makes the same whistling noise you describe. I have not been able to figure it out yet, either. it's frustrating because it means that I HAVE to keep my radio turned up while driving, lest I lose my mind from the sound.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
  • lspivalspiva Member Posts: 49
    IdahoDoug,
    There is no hard feelings. Thanks a lot for your advice. I just change the oil (last Monday) so there is no reason to check the oil level so soon again. I will try again in a few weeks by following your strategy.
    Leo
  • schizaschiza Member Posts: 31
    I noticed a strong gasoline smell this morning in the cabin. I opened the hood and it was coming from the engine bay. The smell has gone away. I've smelled gasoline from time to time before, but though it was coming from another car. I'm taking it in for service. has anyone else experienced this?
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Leo,

    I hope this doesn't sound too harsh, but you still seem to be missing my point. Here is my point: Check the oil level after the first time the car is run when you've changed the oil. That way you know EXACTLY how much oil is in the engine before putting miles on it.

    As to the whistle. Open your hoods and look for a small box in the right rear of the engine bay labeled "FWD". Open it and put a fuse in the slot you see. Start the car and you're now operating in front wheel drive only. Go drive the car and see if the whistle is there. Since the rear differential is not getting any power, if the noise goes away, then it is either the rear drive shaft (unlikely), the rear diff (very likely) or a rear axle CV joint (somewhat less likely). If you're in a slippery area, take care as you do not have as much traction as normal and remove the fuse as soon as you've finished this test.

    IdahoDoug
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    looks like the Outback is popping her front crank seal, in good old fashioned Phase I style. Oil leaking arounf the front end, I don't see anything around the heads themselves but, feh, it is dark out. Drips coming from the front. SO we're headed for service tomorrow. We're still inside warranty on this one so I hope it qualifies as a "powertrain" issue.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I hope the front seal is covered. Did you change the belts recently? If you're going to get the front seal replaced, you might as well get a fresh t-belt in there.

    Ken
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    covered.
    Yea the belts are new :( I'll go ahead and get a t belt I suppose, the car has about 50k on it.
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I haven't gotten tires for the GT yet, the leak is now critical (I was going to take care of it tomorrow and/or thursday). BUT Kirsten has a rehearsal and concert in Lancaster freakin' PA tomorrow, has to leave by 12:30pm. Ugh. The OB is out of the question, as that seal could strand her out there. The only solution I have time to execute is to get the auto-x Azenis I have mounted and balanced on the RS rims while we take the OB to the service dept. Then pick up the rims and bolt em onto the GT and hope it doesn't rain to hard tomorrow night. :( Stupid waiting till the last minute on this tire issue.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    there's no question the crank and cam seals are part of the engine covered under the 5/60k powertrain warranty.

    and it's mileage and age; phaseII engines will do it also. they say the seal material has improved... feh.

    -Colin
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I'll know how to deeal with Gruff Gus the service writer now.
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Hi IdahoDoug, I never knew the Subaru can be set to run FWD only. I read the manual and did not find any thing about it. Would that save more gas for long trip if you set to FWD only?

    Luk
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I think that's to be used only in emergency situations, such as if you need to be towed, but a rollback tow vehicle is not available.

    Bob
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    No I don't think it will save any MPG as you're still obviously carrying the weight. There's some evidence that applying torque to all wheels actually saves gas by changing the shape of the contact patch. This also provides superior stability at speed. I categorically do NOT recommend a vehicle be driven this way other than for a brief test. I have done it myself for 170 miles and would do it again, but there are too many variables for this to be something I'd recommed to anyone. It's a great troubleshooting tool, however.

    IdahoDoug
  • lspivalspiva Member Posts: 49
    I got your point about oil level check. As soon as I changed oil I took car for a 30 miles freeway ride and then checked oil level the next morning. I now sure that the oil level is at appropriate level. The only thing that still confuses me is that one side of the oil dipstick has more oil on it than another and then on one side were oil level is lower the oil level is not shown as a horizontal line but more like "V" shape. So for now I set the lower point of "V" to full and will continue monitor the oil level every 2 weeks. Thanks for your advise and comments. Leo
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    That's right -- seals are covered under 5/60. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you, but at least Kirsten has alternative means of transportation. What are you going to do after you drop off the OB at the dealer?

    While the front cover and t-belt is off, how about the water pump? It's probably a little early, but it might make sense with a new t-belt in there.

    Ken
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Leo,

    Getting the uneven oil levels on both sides of the dipstick is fairly common with our Subaru engines. I always use the lower of the two readings as well.

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Been there, done that. The crank/cam seal on my wife's OB was replaced under warranty at 50-something. Replaced the timing belt as well and didn't have to pay for the labor on it. :-)

    -Dennis
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    Actually Ken, the KDWs that are on the RS rims will get her there fine it looks like. So I already did the swap this morning (and I have to say, as much as I like the stock GT rims, That extra .5" on the RS rims really looks great on the car, fills out the wells a bit more, and results in a proportionally nicer look).

    We're taking the OB in about a half hour, then she leaves for PA and I am car-less until late tonight.

    Then I gotta get tires. Still paralysed by the M+S / Summer indecision. Especially sice I haven't read exactly the most glowing reviews of any of the "summer" tires I can afford (712, ES100). May have to spring a little more cash and get those Proxxes or...aw hell, too many choices!! :)
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    Juice, I know you had this issue on the Mazda...outside axle boot is cracked on the 1994 Turbo Legacy. Has been for quite a while, 6-12 months. I'm about to get a new clutch and throwout bearing, and am wondering if I should just take care of this while I'm at it. Given how long it's been cracked, should I just let the thing fail completely (no signs of any damage at all right now) before I have it repaired? I think they quoted me somewhere in the $200's to repair the boot, and it's what, $500-700 for repairing the whole setup once it fails? What should I do? The grease gunked up my ABS sensor on that corner, too. I am very hesitant to replace it because I think it's over $200 as well. And if a dealer ever tells you your ABS doesn't work when the ABS light is on, tell them "BS". I had a panic stop situation in the rain a few weeks ago, and I'll guarantee you my ABS worked perfectly and allowed me to steer where I wanted to go. Everthing clunked just like it was supposed to, and the ABS light was blazing away.

    Jim
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    If the Cv joint is not showing signs of distress I would replace the boot, why would you spend $700 to $800 when you don't have to.

    Cheers Pat.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    why spend $200+ if it may be close to failing since the boot has been broken for perhaps up to a year or more? Follow me?

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the joint will fail without a good boot given enough time. you should've paid the $200 last year because if you do it now it's better than never but the joint could easily be ready to seize now...

    -Colin
  • sweendogsweendog Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2001 S with 18,000 miles had a burning smell coming from my engine and exhaust. The engine never overheats, but the smell is always there. It seems particularly strong when going uphill, but I have also smelled it as soon as I turn on the engine. I've gone through a few tanks of gas (different brands), changed the oil & filter, flushed and changed the coolant, and checked teh Transmission fluid (it's OK). I've made an appointment to bring it in to my dealer, but anybody have an idea what might be causing it? Thanks, Happy New Year.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    As a vested interest in the well being of Jimmy's legacy... I'd say put the $200 into the boot now and then just add on $150 when you sell it to me :)

    hee hee

    Happy New Year.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    I didn't do it when the dealership told me about it because I was pissed at them. They had attempted to cheat me out of a few hundred dollars and I caught them at it. So, I didn't want to believe the price they were quoting me, and even had my doubts as to the validity of the supposed repair needed. I found the damaged boot myself about 4-6 months later. No question I should have done it asap.

    Jim
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Loosh: I've had Dunlop SP Sport 5000s in the OEM size on the Forester for almost a week now. The Pilot Sport A/S were great in the slushy snow/ice but I took them offmore to save the wheels from exposure to abuse during the winter. I don't think the Dunlops are high performance enough for you but the Michelins might be, even though they cost about double the price of the Dunlops.

    Ed
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I just had mine flipped cause they were mounted backward. They handle much better now. :)

    -mike
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    paisan: These are fine so far but the difference b/n these and the 17" Michelins is night and day. The car feels 6" taller and a lot bouncier (is that a word?). That setup really transformed the Forester into a surprising good handler. On the plus side steering effort is lighter and noise is 'way down, quieter even than the old Geolandars.

    Ed
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