Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

stevek · January 2003

an oxymoron just like SUV (is it sport or utility?) and of course the good old oxymoron: military inteligence??
hehehe.....hope I did not offend anyone
But a rollong box can never be "sporty", and both minivans and SUV's are rolling boxes.

nygreg · January 2003

Oh well, we like it. Now back on topic. I am thinking of going to 10W30 Mobil 1 from the current 5W30 Mobil 1 on the OB due to some knocking when cold. I'm pretty sure this will do the trick. Interestingly, the knocking goes away a few minutes after the coolant shows operating temp, which tells me the oil takes longer to heat up. Any thoughts or experience on this?

Greg

onecvw · January 2003

I own a 1996 Outback 163,000 miles and it has had major oil leaks just as you all seem to have too. I am curious as to how much money (est)you have had to put into fixing your oil leak problems? My most recent seems to be a big one and just wondering if its worth fixing?

bsvoller · January 2003

is in my garage.

Last night an interior door I removed from our basement in order to paint down there fell over onto my Forester.

It bounced, so I have not one ding, but two.

Sigh. I hate it when that happens.

Two good-sized dimples in the top of the passenger door panel. Very little paint damage though.

hondafriek · January 2003

I share your pain, time to see some of the paintless dent removal guys, I have used them several times on differenrt cars and they do a super job.

Cheers Pat.

subearu · January 2003

Yep, the single digit temps have showed up here in SE Wiscosin and I heard some cold knocking even at cold idle (~1.5k RPMs) this morning.

It does go away as the vehicle warms, usually in a 5-10 minutes. I've never been too concerned about it. I typically take it easy during the first part of my driving too.

I'll have to check, but I'm fairly certain they used 5w-30 dyno the last time I had my oil changed (December). FWIW, our MPV uses 5w-20.

-Brian

romy4 · January 2003

This is an update on my post from last November regarding the replacement of the defective automatic transmission on my 2002 OBW. At the time it had only 2,549 miles on the odometer. I was told by the dealer that they were putting in a "new" unit, which seemed reasonable given the low mileage. I was very pleased with their overall handling of the matter.

This week I visited My.Subaur.Com and under the warranty service history for my outback discovered a "reman transaxle assembly" had been installed. Needless to say, I was not happy. The car is barely broken in. Is it SOA policy to always use rebuilds for warranty work? I emailed them about this on 1/20 and as yet have had no response.

I will say I really like the car and it seems to be shifting fine now, but I am troubled by having an old reworked transmission in what is basically a new car. One which I had planned on keeping for many years.

Opinions anyone? I am still hoping to hear from SOA.

ateixeira · January 2003

Sounds like there was a bad batch of head gaskets. My '98 has 49k miles and runs fine, so not all were affected (of course).

romy4: I wonder if they remanufactured yours maybe? Even so, I bet all the gears are new, maybe they used the casing from a used one. But press on and ask, because maybe they can explain that to you.

-juice

nygreg · January 2003

A lot of the newer cars are using 5W20, I believe to save fuel (how much??). I need to check the manual, but, I believe it states I can use 10W30 down to 0F. Since I have a heated garage and it rarely goes below 0F here (with the exception of the last week) I think I'll be OK.

Greg

fibber2 · January 2003

Glad to hear that I am not alone. The garage stays above freezing, so the knock is not too pronounced. But leaving work last night with temps in the 'teens, the sound scared me. At idle is was ok, even when cold. But under load she shuddered, and had a distinctly loud tick that sounded like a single valve. Even when warmed to normal operating temp (Greg - the drive from B/310 to the Taconic), she pulled away from every stop with a shake and ticking. Felt like a valve was maybe not seating? Anyhow, the on-ramp of the parkway (requires full throttle upshifts to keep from being killed...) cured it. Started with a stutter, then snapped into line and pulled strong. When I got off a few miles later, she was her normal quiet and smooth self.

Running 10w-30 (IIRC..) dino. Maybe I should rethink this!!!!

BTW - no offense taken about the minivan. Unlike most SUV's, they are a pretty sensible vehicle.

Steve

lharvey1 · January 2003

Currently having my 99 SOHC Forester drivers side headgasket replaced .. external leak. Car has 47,000 miles. Leak was so minor that no loss of coolant was observed - only occasional odor of coolant on engine shutdown. I wonder if this is happening only on the drivers side? and why. Hoping Subaru has corrected the gaskets or installation procedure so there's no recurring problem. Anyone have any other information on this issue?

nygreg · January 2003

What I am talking about is a knocking, under load, when cold. Not noticeable when idling and it goes away shortly after the temp gauge hits normal op temp. No shuddering or performance issues. No ticking out of the typical injector noise.

Greg

romy4 · January 2003

Juice: The dealer had to order one and did the installation in one day, so I know it wasn't my original tranny. I'll have to email them again, I guess, if I don't hear anything today. I'd really like an explanation.

What kind of longevity will a remanufactured component have vs a new one? If my car had say 30K on it, I might expect they would use a rebuild, but not in this case.

hondafriek · January 2003

If it is any help, I run 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic year round, in the winter I have a block heater given that the mean temperature today is -25 celsius, -40 with the windchill,a block heater is a definite necessity.

Anyway to date I have had no knocking or tapping whatsoever, idle and running oil pressure once warmed up is no different winter or summer.

Cheers Pat.

ateixeira · January 2003

Depends on how it's remanufactured, I guess. Most likely they got another newish tranny and replaced the internals then cleaned it up. In all likelihood, that's fine and should last as long as a new one.

The gears would have to have been replaced because the teeth would have been worn (especially if the donor tranny had been bad). I doubt they could reuse those. I bet it's just the original housing with new gears.

-juice

subearu · January 2003

The knock that I'm hearing this week is something I haven't heard before. Of course, having single digit temps at night could be factoring in to play.

Prior to this, I heard the very subtle slap-like noise occasionally at cold (< 35 degrees F) startup during light acceleration. It always went away within a few minutes of warm-up. I could not hear it at cold idle.

This latest noise is a bit of a concern. I hear it at cold idle very well. And of course, accelerating makes me cringe hearing this noise. Sure it goes away as the engine warms, but man is that hard to just listen to it.

I haven't checked the oil in a couple of weeks, so I'm going to first check that this afternoon.

-Brian

jimmyp1 · January 2003

that Turbo Legacy that's be dangled in front of us better be here soon. I just paid ~$1,600.00 to get the Legacy (1994) out of the dealership. Got a new clutch, throw out bearing and associated bolts, flywheel (old one had actual cracks!), rear main seal, TWO (yes, they found the other one cracked also) axles/CV joints/boots, cleaned the ABS sensors (but the ABS light is still on), and a few other odds and ends. Now here's where it gets interesting...I gave the dealership two weeks notice to arrange for a particular mechanic to work on my car. Every time I spoke with them, I would reiterate what I wanted. Well, after dropping it off, I just had a hunch, went back and told them I needed my gym key out of the center console, and, wouldn't you know it, they had "trainee Fred" (their words) working on it. I wanted to cool down, so I left, and called my main contact after I got a few minutes down the road. He, of course, tried to talk his way around it three or four different ways, but I had them up against a wall with several sound arguments, not the least of which was "where was my phone call to ASK ME IF TRAINEE FRED WAS OK?". Long story somewhat short, they gave me a considerable break on parts AND labor, and gave me a rental car for free since my second axle took an extra day to come in. Not happy about the attempted deception, but happy with the outcome. The car is SO smooth. I had asked for a parts/labor breakdown ahead of time so that I could do some internet shopping, and the total bill would have been about $2,200.00+ given what they ended up doing. So, I'll take the $600.00+ savings and run....for now. I may consider another dealer in the future though.

Jim

kevin111 · January 2003

The hinges on the gas door of my WRX are a little flimsy (that or I do not know my own force!).

When I was filling the car up at night, by accident bumped into the gas door. This resulted in the hinge being bent, and causing the door to hit the side of the car.

Dealer will charge me $140 for replace and repaint, which seems reasonable.

First time this has happened to me with bending a gas door, so maybe it was a fluke or flimsy hinge to be warry of. Oh well.

I personally really like the style of the release lever inside though.

locke2c · January 2003

Brian,

Since it goes away when warm, my first guess on your noise is the timing belt tensioner. When it's cold it isn't making enough friction and the belt slaps against the timing cover.

Your dealer can help for sure. If you're out of warranty or merely curious, pop the hood and listen around the timing cover area (lay under the front of the car-- make sure the brake is set, blah blah blah).

-Colin

subearu · January 2003

I can check that in the morning, as we're expecting wind chill advisories this evening. So, it'll be plenty cold. Of course, not as cold as Pat's neck of the woods ;-)

Would I be able to feel the timing belt cover from the top and 'feel' the knocking?

BTW, I did check the oil level and all is well there, as it should be since it's only been a month and a half since it was changed.

I'm not out of warranty, in fact I have the Subaru Gold too. And I'm only at just under 27k on the odometer.

Silly question - would this type of thing happened if I would have used synthetic oil? It has been fed nothing but dino, fwiw.

-Brian

kens · January 2003

Brian,

No, using conventional oil has nothing to do with whatever it is that you are experiencing. In fact, it took a while for Subaru to come out and tell us it was okay to use synthetic!

Ken

locke2c · January 2003

Brian,

I have never been able to figure out the viscous-piston timing belt tensioner. It's needlessly complication and very fragile.

Proof: reinstallation instructions state that it must be compressed slowly over 3 minutes in a vertical orientation (so under a hydraulic press) at cannot see over 66lb/ft of torque at any instant.

Apparently this is better than a spring somehow???

-Colin

shad12 · January 2003

The head gasket(s) went out on my '98 outback with 94,000 miles on it. I noticed anti-freeze leaking when I arrived at work. The temp gauge still was at normal. I drove it over to the dealer and they have had it for two weeks this friday. Since they gave me a loaner to drive, I haven't bugged them about their progress on the repair. I was very disappointed with the cost hit of estimated $2200 plus. I just never realized gaskets were still a problem in this day and age.

paisan · January 2003

Oh man, I better start saving! Looks like I'll be forking out at least a few grand on your baby!

-mike

subearu · January 2003

Couldn't tell where the noise was coming from this morning. It was tad chilly and I was not about to crawl underneath.

I guess I'll probably have to leave it overnight at the dealer one of these days.

-Brian

fibber2 · January 2003

As I reported yesterday, single digits is also playing havoc with my engine as well. Yesterday I let it sit at idle for a few moments before driving away, but the distinct ticking continued for quite a while after coming up to full temp. So instead of going home, I went to Wally World in search of some synthetic. I have never used anything but dino in 27 years of ownership, but thought it might be worth a try.

They don't carry Mobil 1 in all grades, and I was a bit leary of going with 0w-30 (althought it would probably be fine...). I settled on Quaker State full synthetic in regular Subi spec 5w-30. And even though I have Subi/Purolator oil filters at home, I went for the upper line PTFE impregnated Fram filter. I know, it is probably a scam, but if you heard how my motor sounded, you would go to desperate attempts also. I don't have any concerns about the quality of their drain-back valve, as the filter mounts fully vertical.

Anyhow, this morning the engine was as quiet as a start on a Summers day!! Oil weight is the same (it was serviced with 5w-30, 2900 miles ago), just dino to synthetic. I will let you know if it stays silent.

Steve

bluesubie · January 2003

I thought that knocking at start-up that goes away when warm was normal. With temps here in the single digits F as well, the Phase I OB sounds like a diesel when it's started and gets quieter after it's warmed up.
Using a synth. blend right now and switching to full synth at over 60k is probably too late.

Wouldn't a conventional usually oil keep things quieter? They're usually thicker at operating temps. (I'll verify that on M1.com).

-Dennis

jay_24 · January 2003

I got a feeling thicker isn't the problem. The no flow is the problem. At -14F (current temp) dyno oil doesn't flow well and is plenty thick. Hence some nocking noise until that oil gets there and starts to flow.

--jay

bluesubie · January 2003

fibber2 · January 2003

At under 11k on my '02 OBW, I was suddenly faced with a very singular tick accompanying by a shudder on acceleration that would not go away until well after the temp reached normal. Something wasn't oiling well. Very scary....

This morning with fresh (synthetic), all quiet! I don't do all of my own service anymore. Who knows, maybe the shop put in 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 ??? Something wasn't right.

Steve

subearu · January 2003

or hesitation on ours. Other than the 'noise', it sounds fine and revs normally.

-Brian

celica115 · January 2003

Oil leaks happens again on MY02. This time is not from oil pump. It is from Oil pan and gear box. Oil pan leaks should be a easy job (only 16 screws). I concern about the leaks of the gear box. How will they fix it? Are they going to take off gear box and open it up? Dose other Subaru have the gear box leaks experience? I will post this issus again next week after fixing it.

Luk

ateixeira · January 2003

No, gear oil is pretty thick and you'd think it would be pretty uncommon for it to leak.

Keep us posted, and good luck.

-juice

paisan · January 2003

Don't forget full Coolant Temp doesn't mean your oil temp is up to operating temp. In general it takes a bit longer for the oil to warm up than the coolant.

-mike

joybell · January 2003

Just thought to mention that my 1993 Loyale started up without problems even though wind chill (ok, the motor didn't point to the wind) was -41deg the past 2 days (fahrenheit and celcius are the same at this point). It only ehw ehw-ed twice then marched right to life. It has a block heater that I have never used! (parked to far from an outlet). So what's happening to the new Subies?

paisan · January 2003

I don't think anyone had a problem starting their cars. They just said that they clacked for a while, which I'm POSITIVE your loyale does (as there are a few in my family)

-mike

bsvoller · January 2003

Isn't PTFE teflon ? Isn't teflon a solid ? If these are the Fram filters I've heard about, I'm not enamored of them at all.

Maybe I'm just suffering from age-related memory degeneration....

I use original subie filters or the Purolator version when I can find 'em.

I've also tried Bosch and Mobil 1 (on sale) on my other vehicles with good results.

Hope that filter choice works out for you.

-brianV

paisan · January 2003

Looks like I need inner tierods and sway bar endlinks for the SVX...

I was getting a hollow noise over bumps and coudn't figure out what it was.

-mike

fibber2 · January 2003

The general claim on PTFE (teflon) is that the particle size is too small to be stopped by the filter, but that it has an affinity for metal pores. A few years ago (someone fill in the blank on the name of the product) settled a case with the govt on excessive claims about the benefits of PTFE. They had advertised it as a friction reducer and fuel saver. IIRC, the feds went after them on the fuel claim, but never challenged them on the wear enhancer. So does it work? Who knows. You could have sold me on almost anything last night to get that engine to quiet down!!!

Steve

nygreg · January 2003

My car is kept in a heated garage (45F). In the morning I will hear some knocking under load until warmed up. Nothing at idle or under no load. So, at 45F I believe the 5W30 Mobil 1 is flowing fine. My guess is that 10W30 will help when cold. Checked the manual and 10W30 (As well as 10W40) is good from "just below 0F" (looks like -5 on the chart). I will try it. However, I do not hear any abnormal ticking and no performance issues (with the car anyway). I use Subaru filters.

Greg

kens · January 2003

Greg: Just keep in mind that a 5W30 will always flow better than a 10W30 at cold temperatures. The chart shows only useable range but provides no information on the relative viscosities. In fact, the first number (Seybolt Seconds)represents the number of seconds it takes a given amount of the oil to flow through a viscometer at 0 degrees Farenheit. A "5" weight oil therefore will flow twice as fast as a "10" weight oil at 0 degrees.

Ken

gxb159 · January 2003

I have a 1997 Outback with Keyless entry. I purchased the car with only one remote transmitter and would like to get a second. I have found several on Ebay. There are many models but none with the FCC # on my remote. Are other subaru remotes compatible with the 1997 keyless entry system? Thanks.

ateixeira · January 2003

I would call 800-SUBARU3 and ask that same question. My guess is there are at least a few different types, so not all would work interchangeably like that. A dealer may have to program them.

-juice

reblack_jr · January 2003

I noticed today at that there is an odor that smells like antifreeze when I am stopped at a traffic light. Checked the coolant level tank and it was down below lower level when engine was cold. Refilled it ran a bit and waiting for full cooldown (should not take much time in this cold weather). What are the signs of a head gasket problem?

bsvoller · January 2003

Lemme see...

1. White gooey stuff on oil filler cap
2. Oil visible on top of radiator fluid
3. White smoke in exhaust AFTER warmup
4. Inexplicable loss of coolant
5. Inexplicable loss of power
6. One or more cylinders fails to hold compression

The best test is the last one.

I had a gasket go on my '91 Sundance - took me a while to figure out because I drove very short distances. I'd check the coolant level and everything would be fine for weeks - then I'd drive a little farther and the thermostat would open, allowing the high pressure side (due to the blown gasket) to "see" the radiator. Next time I'd check - no coolant anywhere, but no leaks either. Fortunately, the gasket failure had not "connected" the oil system with the coolant system, so I didn't suffer a catastrophic engine failure. I had the gasket repaired and sold the Sundance in favor of our Forester...

Hope this helps,

-brianV

my1stsub03obs · January 2003

Hello all... I just bought a '03 Outback Sport (my first Subaru as the "screen name" implies) and it started to make a rattling noise a few days ago. I've only had the car for 3 weeks and it only has 497 miles.

After the engine warms up and the car is idle for more than 10 seconds or so, the engine seems to idle too low and a rattling starts (I've not been able to trace it). I don't believe it's anything materially wrong, but it sure can be annoying.

This is my first new car and I obviously don't expect this to happen, ever, but especially so soon. Have any of you heard of this problem before? Any comments/advise would be greatly appreciated.

nygreg · January 2003

My head gasket was replaced over the holidays. I noticed a burning antifreeze smell, drops just behind the engine on the left (mainly on the cross member) and a low reservoir. No af in oil, no oil in af, no white smoke. The leak was external. No af entered the oil channels or the combustion chamber. This was confirmed by the dealer.

Ken - My thinking is the 5W synthetic flows too well when cold. The 10W is 2x the viscosity so it will sit in the clearances (i.e. bearings) longer thus reducing the morning knock. Question; if synthetic flows better than dino at a given temp, why are they both rated at 5W?

Greg

locke2c · January 2003

greg--

you summarized my thoughts exactly as to why I ran 10w30 Syntec, and later, 10w30 Mobil1 in my '99 2.5RS.

it definitely was noiser at cold start with 5w30. used Mobil1 5w30 for one change in mid-winter and never went back... noticeably more valvetrain noise at cold start!

-Colin

nygreg · January 2003

I believe by going to 10W30 from 5W30, I will at least reduce the cold knocking. I plan to buy some tomorrow, only I'm not due for a change for another 5K miles.

Greg

nygreg · January 2003

never went back to 5W30 or Mobil 1?

Greg

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