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Comments
It was supposedly only a problem in severely cold weather, though. I never had a problem, but got it fixed anyway.
-juice
Rattle (tumble sound) is actually coming from a small 2.5" x 2.5" panel that plugs into the rear door panel. You can test, by opening up the rear door and tapping on the inside with your hand. This loose panel is just above the speaker. After carefully removing it, I used some thick cloth tape, and put some tape on the left and right edges only of the hole and snapped the panel back in. Viola, no more noise. The passenger side also has this panel, but the cutout is smaller which holds the panel more securely.
Hope this helps other owners as well.
-Tony
Cheers!
Paul
Thanks for the post!
Patti
Either way, I can get two tires off the ground.
Important: please use JACK STANDS, do not rely on the jack alone.
-juice
Make sure you use a genuine Subaru filter and new drain plug crush washer each time.
-Colin
Jacking it up makes the cover easier to remove, and you end up with more room to change the oil as well.
Of course, I do 3 cars at once (the Forester, a Miata, and a 626), so I need the jack regardless, and it doesn't take me any extra time.
-juice
-Colin
Leo
And too bad, but Subaru doesn't make a roadster!
Hmm, I'd take a convertible based on WRX underpinnings in a second.
Colin: it seems to keep the engine bay relatively clean. I'd only take it off if I had a skid plate in its place.
-juice
-mike
-juice
These ramps, which he got at Auto Zone for $30, are made specifically for low clearance vehicles, are very long (3-4 feet) and at a low angle -- raises the car up about 6-8". It should work great.
I just need to find out how to take off that plastic hood. There are 3 bolts in the front and 2 in the back + some plastic kabos (see I'm not that mechanical). Do I need to remove all of the above????
My Forester has two bolts towards the front, two back further a bit, and two push-pins in the wheel well. Use a flat screw driver to pry the middle of the push-pins back, then they pull out easily. Use a ratchet set or a crescent wrench for the bolts (and yes, I remove all of them).
Once you've done it, it takes no more than two minutes to remove the cover.
-juice
I did my first oil change on my new OB ltd. It was ok except that the oil filter is facing north to south. So when I twisted it the oil went all over the filter itself. It is a very messy ordeal. Also the plastic cover makes it hard to take the bolt out without getting oil all over. I like it when the filter is actually facing down. That way the oil drains out of the filter before you take it off. You can change the oil without lifting the car. A little uncomfortable but it is do-able. Next time I may use the tow hook and lift it on the opposite side of where the plug is facing. I was not able to tighten it as much as Subaru had.
I put in a little more than 4 Qts of oil. It seems that 4 Qts would have been enough. Manual says 4.2 . But when I added a little more than the 4th it seems it was completely full.
I love the yellow caps on everything. This way you can't misplace it!!! Nice.
Yeah, I like that all the serviceable items are in yellow, too.
-juice
bit
-juice
I bet that if you let the car sit over night and then the next morning you do the oil change maybe the filter will not leak oil at all, as it would all have drained to the bottom over night. Maybe? Maybe not? I have big oil pan myslef and never get oil on the floor. So I don't mind. There is plenty of room for me to get the oil filter wrench in there. That was nice. But, I won't ever use it again. I always tighten and untighten filter by hand. So nice to see a clean engine and the silver of the aluminum. As opposed to looking at my old Accord. Next oil change will require tire rotation.
bit
I like to change the oil when the engine is fully warmed up so it drains more completely. To me it's worth the little extra work and time.
-juice
I recently bought the Rhino ramps and they're great. I remove the filter the same way bit mentioned. I usually warm up the engine as well.
Dennis
-Colin
If my engine weren't as "stock" as it is, I probably would.
-juice
Ken
bit
Dennis
I use them ALL the time, for all 3 cars. So worth it I can't believe I managed without them.
-juice
Man, you guys are brutal! ;-)
I'm sure the location of the drain plug and oil filter must be slightly different, and the Bean may have a higher oil capacity.
-juice
Dennis
You need a clean room.
-juice
Not to switch subjects, but, is the 2.5L interference? Sorry if this was answered before and I don't have the car yet so I can't RTFM.
-Greg
I believe my Phase I DOHC is not, but I'm not sure about the Phase II. Still, I don't want to be stranded because a belt broke, so I'll change mine at 60k or 90k (scheduled replacement is only at 105k miles, with an inspection at 90k).
-juice
Why do you ask?
-Colin
Thanks,
-Greg
Ken
-juice
Remove the automatic tensioner and one of the guide rollers and remove the belt. Install the new belt and roller.
Now to install the tensioner, it gets a bit tricky. You need to compress the small piston that protrudes from it (causing belt tension) in a hydraulic press slowly over 3 minutes in an upright position. Anything else could cause the tensioner to fail-- you'll know because it starts oozing a viscous fluid and your belt will be loose enough to hit the plastic timing cover at cold start. Anyway, after you compress it stick a 2mm hex wrench through the hole in the piston which locks it down. Then reinstall the tensioner and after making sure all the marks are still lined up-- crankshaft and both cam pullies-- pull the hex key out, which allows the piston to raise and provide tension.
It's sooooo much easier than DOHC. And dealers usually charge $500+ for this, you can do it by following my instructions in two hours at most. Should take <30 minutes with air tools... of course you have to remove the radiator fans, coolant overflow tank, accessory belts and brackets and timing cover but that's simple. :-D
-Colin
-juice
What kind of air tools would you need. Do you need any special tools at all? It sounds so easy. And my dealer charges like 630 dollars for the service. I think that is outrages. Considering you have to take out the radiator you might as well replace the fluid when you do it. I don't like re-using stuff. Does anyone have a diagram for replacing timming belts? Also Colin, do you have to reset the timming on the car? Thanks.
You do need a hydraulic press, but not a very large one. You can get 'em cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. That's a special tool for most people...
I thought you had a WRX?
-Colin
I have an 01 OB. I do have air tools. Unless I move back East or use my OB for long commutes then I won't see 105K for many years to come. But then again I may get a long commute again! I am sure there are tons of hydraulic presses available. But I won't need the specs now. Still too early. It is just that this stuff is all interesting to me.
I looked in my Forester owner's manual, and couldn't find anything about oil changes except what kinds of oil to use.
Back around post #722, Juice posted a URL on his Web site with oil-change instructions. I tried accessing my bookmark today and it no longer works. Waaaah! Juice, did you change ISPs, per chance? Is there a new URL for your lovely oil change instructions? I'd love to have access to this information!
thanks in advance,
Karin in California