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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wasn't that a long time ago? My '98 was recalled years ago for that fix.

    It was supposedly only a problem in severely cold weather, though. I never had a problem, but got it fixed anyway.

    -juice
  • tlimatlima Member Posts: 124
    I've finally found the "seatbelt" rattle in my '01 Forester that many other owners have reported as well. I think someone posted earlier (much earlier) about the fix for this, but last weekend I got a chance to look into it. Here is what I found:

    Rattle (tumble sound) is actually coming from a small 2.5" x 2.5" panel that plugs into the rear door panel. You can test, by opening up the rear door and tapping on the inside with your hand. This loose panel is just above the speaker. After carefully removing it, I used some thick cloth tape, and put some tape on the left and right edges only of the hole and snapped the panel back in. Viola, no more noise. The passenger side also has this panel, but the cutout is smaller which holds the panel more securely.

    Hope this helps other owners as well.

    -Tony
  • spi9959spi9959 Member Posts: 14
    After all of the horror stories I've read about oil overfills and other related problems with oil changes at places like Jiffy Lube, and, yes, even Subaru dealers, I've decided to be safe and do the job myself. I know the points for jacking up my 2001 Forester S using the Subaru-supplied jack, but I'm wondering if I can use a pneumatic jack to lift the *front* of the car ... seems it would make changing the oil and filter a bit easier. I'm not sure, though, if doing so would allow all of the oil to drain out. Thanks for your help.
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    I use tow hooks as jack points... and I have a frame-mounted tow-bar receiver under there as well. I use the trailer hitch on the back as my lift point for tire changeovers. If the tow hooks are strong enough for the wrecker to lift the car, they ought to be okay for this use as well.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • pattim3pattim3 Member Posts: 533
    I'm glad you found the source. I'll make sure I share your post with our technical department.

    Thanks for the post!

    Patti
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    To lift the back, I place the hydraulic jack under the rear diffy. In the front, I usually use the point where the lower suspension links meet the frame.

    Either way, I can get two tires off the ground.

    Important: please use JACK STANDS, do not rely on the jack alone.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Steven, you should not need to raise your Forester to change the oil. It has a higher ride height than my Impreza and I can change my oil without raising the car. True, I have to lay on my side in front of the car, but it's hardly challenging. The drain plug is within easy reach and the filter is even closer.

    Make sure you use a genuine Subaru filter and new drain plug crush washer each time.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The catch is the Forester has a plastic cover under the engine. It has little access holes, but the oil could spill and make a mess if you don't remove the cover to see what you are doing.

    Jacking it up makes the cover easier to remove, and you end up with more room to change the oil as well.

    Of course, I do 3 cars at once (the Forester, a Miata, and a 626), so I need the jack regardless, and it doesn't take me any extra time.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Why bother putting the cover back on?

    -Colin
  • leomortleomort Member Posts: 453
    you own Mazda's too! and here I thought you were a loyal Subie fan! ;) teasing

    Leo
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We had the 626 long before our first Subie.

    And too bad, but Subaru doesn't make a roadster!

    Hmm, I'd take a convertible based on WRX underpinnings in a second.

    Colin: it seems to keep the engine bay relatively clean. I'd only take it off if I had a skid plate in its place.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Get a WRX, and buy a welder! Chop that roof right off! (just make sure to shore up the frame though)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Naw, needs to be designed as a roadster from the get-go.

    -juice
  • mikezakmikezak Member Posts: 95
    My neighbor across the street has a 2001 Corvett noless and he suggested that I borrow his low angle ramps that he has to raise the vehicle to change the oil.

    These ramps, which he got at Auto Zone for $30, are made specifically for low clearance vehicles, are very long (3-4 feet) and at a low angle -- raises the car up about 6-8". It should work great.

    I just need to find out how to take off that plastic hood. There are 3 bolts in the front and 2 in the back + some plastic kabos (see I'm not that mechanical). Do I need to remove all of the above????
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I love Rhino ramps. I have the same thing - they work like a charm.

    My Forester has two bolts towards the front, two back further a bit, and two push-pins in the wheel well. Use a flat screw driver to pry the middle of the push-pins back, then they pull out easily. Use a ratchet set or a crescent wrench for the bolts (and yes, I remove all of them).

    Once you've done it, it takes no more than two minutes to remove the cover.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Folks,

    I did my first oil change on my new OB ltd. It was ok except that the oil filter is facing north to south. So when I twisted it the oil went all over the filter itself. It is a very messy ordeal. Also the plastic cover makes it hard to take the bolt out without getting oil all over. I like it when the filter is actually facing down. That way the oil drains out of the filter before you take it off. You can change the oil without lifting the car. A little uncomfortable but it is do-able. Next time I may use the tow hook and lift it on the opposite side of where the plug is facing. I was not able to tighten it as much as Subaru had.

    I put in a little more than 4 Qts of oil. It seems that 4 Qts would have been enough. Manual says 4.2 . But when I added a little more than the 4th it seems it was completely full.

    I love the yellow caps on everything. This way you can't misplace it!!! Nice.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Preventing the mess is the exact reason for my using rhino ramps and removing the cover.

    Yeah, I like that all the serviceable items are in yellow, too.

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    I never remove the complete plastic cover... just the access cover and I do my oil changes without raising the car (2001 GT wagon). If you remove the access cover you can see the drain plug and this helps to guide your socket through the drain plug access hole. I think the plastic cover has changed a little in 2001 as the oil drains just fine through the hole. As for the filter, I usually loosen it a few turns, let the oil drain, wipe the filter clean and then remove it completey. It's not all that messy for me. You can see a diagram on how to remove the access cover and find the drain plug in your manual on pages 11-10 and 11-11.

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The mess I'm talking about comes from the filter. When I loosen it, hot oil pours out, and not dripping from just one place. I have a big oil pan and it catches just about all of it.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Guys,

    I bet that if you let the car sit over night and then the next morning you do the oil change maybe the filter will not leak oil at all, as it would all have drained to the bottom over night. Maybe? Maybe not? I have big oil pan myslef and never get oil on the floor. So I don't mind. There is plenty of room for me to get the oil filter wrench in there. That was nice. But, I won't ever use it again. I always tighten and untighten filter by hand. So nice to see a clean engine and the silver of the aluminum. As opposed to looking at my old Accord. Next oil change will require tire rotation.
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Plus the nice thing about a vertically mounted filter is that the oil doesn't run down the side of the engine block and then onto the rim of the oil pan. It may get oil on you but your engine stays nice and clean.

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OCD King strikes again! ;-)

    I like to change the oil when the engine is fully warmed up so it drains more completely. To me it's worth the little extra work and time.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    My wife's 99 OB Ltd. has the optional engine underguard. When I first changed the oil, I removed it and I don't think it had ever been removed before. Lots of dried, caked on oil.

    I recently bought the Rhino ramps and they're great. I remove the filter the same way bit mentioned. I usually warm up the engine as well.
    Dennis
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    See Juice, if you would just switch to synthetic it would flow better cold and you wouldn't have to get burned changing it. :-p

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OOPS, you got me!

    If my engine weren't as "stock" as it is, I probably would.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    How much did you pay for your Rhino Ramps and where did you buy them? I'm going to buy a set soon.

    Ken
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    I just bought a set at Pep Boys for something like $40. They don't usually have many in stock so you should call first.

    bit
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    They were only $29 at a Pep Boys in NJ.
    Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, $29 rings a bell with me too.

    I use them ALL the time, for all 3 cars. So worth it I can't believe I managed without them.

    -juice
  • brownwjbrownwj Member Posts: 19
    Does anybody know if you can change oil when the 2001 outback LL Bean is not level. For example, when you put it up on a rhino ramp to raise it or if your driveway is not level in either a longitudinal or lateral direction. The manual says that the car should be level. However, on other cars, I have drained it figuring the oil drained out of the vertical cylinders into the oil pan, but I am not so sure of the horizontal Subaru cylinders. Also does anybody know if the LL Bean filter change procedure any different than the 4-cylinder?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    good point, considering the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Simple solution - my driveway is at an incline, so I drive it down onto the ramp. The car ends up level, but you have space to work underneath.

    Man, you guys are brutal! ;-)

    I'm sure the location of the drain plug and oil filter must be slightly different, and the Bean may have a higher oil capacity.

    -juice
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    The best thing about a vertical oil filter is that you can prime it first. I am also looking for a bigger filter on my 2001 Legacy GT, there is plenty of room for it. I had lawn mowers with bigger filter than that. :)
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    juice! Too funny. I'd even thought of only driving the left side onto the ramp so the car would tilt to the right. Thought that might be a little extreme (or dangerous) though.

    Dennis
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    to removing the oil pan and hanging it on a tree?? ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No - too many squirrels!

    You need a clean room.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I work in a real clean room. Semiconductors. That would work. Real OCD!

    Not to switch subjects, but, is the 2.5L interference? Sorry if this was answered before and I don't have the car yet so I can't RTFM.

    -Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Think you could sneak in an oil pan? They may notice!

    I believe my Phase I DOHC is not, but I'm not sure about the Phase II. Still, I don't want to be stranded because a belt broke, so I'll change mine at 60k or 90k (scheduled replacement is only at 105k miles, with an inspection at 90k).

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    The 00+ 2.5L with 10.0:1 compression ratio is interference.

    Why do you ask?

    -Colin
  • hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    After I drain the oil pan in my '97 OB I poke a hole in the bottom of the filter with a screw driver and let the oil drain into the pan , then I loosen the filter and cover it with a plastic Walmart bag to remove it... no mess!
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Just want to know if I need to be cautious about changing the belt years from now.

    Thanks,
    -Greg
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    So, how much of a problem would it be not to drain your oil on a relatively flat surface? Do you leave a significant amount in the engine?

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Probably 1/4 of a quart or so at ramp angles. But that's also the dirtiest part.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Oh, it's really easy Greg. Simply bring the crankshaft to the timing mark and both cams will be safe. Mark the cam pulleys with white-out or something similar. They are keyed and the cams are under valvespring pressure so they won't move unless someone monkeys with them OR you don't have the crankshaft at the zero timing mark.

    Remove the automatic tensioner and one of the guide rollers and remove the belt. Install the new belt and roller.

    Now to install the tensioner, it gets a bit tricky. You need to compress the small piston that protrudes from it (causing belt tension) in a hydraulic press slowly over 3 minutes in an upright position. Anything else could cause the tensioner to fail-- you'll know because it starts oozing a viscous fluid and your belt will be loose enough to hit the plastic timing cover at cold start. Anyway, after you compress it stick a 2mm hex wrench through the hole in the piston which locks it down. Then reinstall the tensioner and after making sure all the marks are still lined up-- crankshaft and both cam pullies-- pull the hex key out, which allows the piston to raise and provide tension.

    It's sooooo much easier than DOHC. And dealers usually charge $500+ for this, you can do it by following my instructions in two hours at most. Should take <30 minutes with air tools... of course you have to remove the radiator fans, coolant overflow tank, accessory belts and brackets and timing cover but that's simple. :-D

    -Colin
  • brownwjbrownwj Member Posts: 19
    I think that it is important on a horizontal engine to have it level. If you have a driveway that slants down toward the street and also slants sideways, you can level the car by driving the wheel up the ramps at different height on each side. In other words, have one ramp start at the tire on the low side and have the other ramp start a foot or two away from the wheel on the other side and when you drive it up it will raise the lower side up higher so that it is level with the other side. You have to stop on the sloped portion of the ramp and put the brake on and then block the wheels to make sure it does not roll back, You then have to check the engine for long way levelness and sideways levelness and readjust the ramps and do it again until you get it level. It is a pain, but once you get it level, you can put a small paint marks on your driveway so that the next time you do it you know where to place the ramps. Of course you can always say a little sludge circulating around never hurt. It builds up and you save money because you will not have to put so much oil in the next time.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Be careful - those ramps could slip. Luckily mine angles down, but not side to side.

    -juice
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Colin,

    What kind of air tools would you need. Do you need any special tools at all? It sounds so easy. And my dealer charges like 630 dollars for the service. I think that is outrages. Considering you have to take out the radiator you might as well replace the fluid when you do it. I don't like re-using stuff. Does anyone have a diagram for replacing timming belts? Also Colin, do you have to reset the timming on the car? Thanks.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    You don't "need" any air tools but an air ratchet will come in very handy when you're removing the ~12-14 small bolts holding the timing cover in place. You don't actually remove the radiator, just the fans. You should loose no coolant, although according to the manual it should be replaced every 30,000 miles or so anyway.

    You do need a hydraulic press, but not a very large one. You can get 'em cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. That's a special tool for most people...

    I thought you had a WRX?

    -Colin
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Collin,

    I have an 01 OB. I do have air tools. Unless I move back East or use my OB for long commutes then I won't see 105K for many years to come. But then again I may get a long commute again! I am sure there are tons of hydraulic presses available. But I won't need the specs now. Still too early. It is just that this stuff is all interesting to me.
  • kwelsskwelss Member Posts: 21
    I'm about to perform my first oil change on my 2001 Forester (I'm only at 1900 miles, but I like to halve the recommended oil changes, especially while the engine is still being broken in).

    I looked in my Forester owner's manual, and couldn't find anything about oil changes except what kinds of oil to use.

    Back around post #722, Juice posted a URL on his Web site with oil-change instructions. I tried accessing my bookmark today and it no longer works. Waaaah! Juice, did you change ISPs, per chance? Is there a new URL for your lovely oil change instructions? I'd love to have access to this information!

    thanks in advance,
    Karin in California
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