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Comments
bit
Mine is pretty simple. Just twist the dial, then lock it in place.
-juice
http://www.bitman.com/torque.jpg
bit
http://www.bitman.com/torque.jpg
bit
I imagine those are ounces, perhaps not labeled properly? Try 70lbs + 10 on the knob, and then just 80lbs +0, and see if they "feel" the same. I bet the 80ft-lbs is tighter.
-juice
bit
On the shaft itself, mine is labeled with 5 lb-ft increments. The knob itself is split into 1/2 lb-ft increment, so I see 0, 0.5, 1, 1.5 ... up to 4.5.
Maybe they just put the wrong labels on yours. I'm sure yours is 1 ft-lb increments, then.
-juice
Sounds (and looks) like they're using the wrong increment scale. Send it back!
-Brian
I did send it back.
bit
None more better...
-Brian
In the owner's manual, it indicated that the fluid/oil should not be mixed with different brand(s). So, for a do-it-yourselfer (that ain't me) who needs to top up the fluid/oil, how does anyone know what brand is in there? Hmmm...would the Dealer Service even know?
Oh, the manual didn't say.
p/s I know what's in mine. Had them all drained and refilled.
"This one goes to eleven".
-juice
Thanks,
Ranger Ron
bit
-Brian
I am concerned that this is actually a transmission/differential noise and doesn't bode well for the long haul. Since I drive 30,000 miles per year, I reach the long haul (and the end of a warranty window) quickly. Besides the original overfill, I often can smell the sweet smell of AT fluid when the windows are down and I have been driving a while (particularly up hill to my house in the hills). There are no visible leaks. The windows are down either because I am a) too hot or I) too sick of listening to the rumble noise as compared to window noise.
It seems to be worse with four passengers than one or two, but it is always there. If I accelerate more rapidly, it goes away. If I back off on the throttle completely, it goes away. Could it be something inside the exhaust (I wiggled all the external shields)? Or is it really in the drive train?
I have learned to ignore the noises rubies "always" make (I and/or my wife have had 5 of them from AL to Legacy to Outback Sport - transmission whine, rear gate rattles, rear door pillar rattles, and in the Forester only, engine rattle when cold (even if it's 85 degrees when you fire her up). In the end, I couldn't stand the terrible clutch in the 2000 Outback Sport (an otherwise FUN car), and traded it with only 16 I after being told by the dealers that it was "normal". This is my first automatic in 300,000 miles of driving standards (since the 90 Legacy LS). Why does Subaru always come SO close to the perfect car, only to blow it on one major item or another (early exhausts/radiators, early AS computers, rust, Impreza clutch)?
The Forester (my daughter has a 2001L too) seems the best yet, But this noise has me waiting for the shoe to fall - partly because nobody else seems to have it and I have a history of getting dealers to say "bee we never saw that before - or since".
I have two dealer choices on this - one nearby with only 2 years experience and high service turnover or another I like a lot that is 45 miles away. So I turn to you. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help - many minds make better decisions!
The rattling could be a heat shield near the exhaust that works itself loose when the engine gets warm.
Just my 2 cents' worth.
-juice
Regards,
Frank
-Frank P.
-mike
-juice
Ross
bit
Nope-- still have plenty of pad at 32k miles and many autocrosses. And they don't squeal at all, haven't for a while. Pretty weird.
-Colin
-juice
-Greg
P.S. Also installed my hood deflector. Actually like the way it looks agains the Winestone. No pics though - was kinda in a rush as usual.
at one point the place i was taking my car said something about a very small leak around the right front wheel. i think it was something about a bearing. i don't have any written record, and it was probably 9 months ago that i was told.
thanks
seamus
Cheers!
Paul
Sounds like the steering wheel pump to me too -- a little noise is normal since the pump is operating at it's limit. Other cars do this too.
Ken
Now they are putting a new short block in the car. Does anyone have any information about what block they replace with these days? Phase I or II? They said the short block I am getting now is going to be brand new so is that a good thing? Should I be concerned about the condition of my heads or valve's being they are not replacing those?
If it is the new Phase II block, is the new block better then the one I had in the car?
I am really pissed about this crap as I collectively had the car in the garage for a month!
To top it off the Short Block is on back order (sounds like they are having all kinds of block problems according to a mechanic I spoke to.) Subaru is paying 30 bucks a day for a rental until its fixed but that doesn't change the fact I have a car with major mechanical issues under 60K miles!
I thank god for the warranty, but I am sure Subaru is shooting themselves in the foot with these problems and their power train warranty. I am ready to get rid of this car just because I have read an unusual amount of similarities between my problem and other folks aluminum block and head nightmares. If any of you out there have had issues with your Phase I block please write me as I am in the initial discovery period of formulating a legal discovery into these issues.
Any information about this would be great!
Thanks!
-juice
From what I've heard the Phase II block is more durable than the Phase I block. Having said that, I haven't heard of problems with Phase I block itself.
Ken
-Frank P.
Regards,
Frank
Also, the SOHC EJ25 combustion chamber volume is less than the DOHC EJ25 though, so watch those compression ratios... in short it's not a direct swap for someone desiring a "stock-like" engine.
-Colin
Best of luck,
-wdb
Ken
In most of the cases, virtually none of the 'normal stuff' you expect to happen will happen. For example, if you remove the radiator cap and fire it up, you won't see any bubbles even if the head gaskets are both blown.
What the EJ series usually does is leak cylinder compression past the head gasket quench area, which blows coolant out of the block and into the overflow tank. In the early stages the engine won't overheat at all unless you're really giving it a workout. Later on moderate acceleration will do it... all assuming that nothing worse has happened to the aluminum block and heads which are extremely intolerant of overheating.
-Colin
Keeping my fingers crossed as my wife's 99 OB nears 52,000 miles.
Dennis
As far back as 1980 there was a simple tool for checking for exhaust gases in the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap, screw down another cap in its place -- which is attached to a bottle with some fluid in it. Run the motor; if the fluid changes color then there are exhaust gases in the cooling system. Simple.
I used it quite a bit, and it was very handy in sniffing out blown head gaskets. I can't imagine that it or something like it is not still available.
Cheers,
-wdb
Dennis
Anyway, I found the above info by searching on google.com
Colin, wdb care to comment on the above?
"..A leaking head gasket will not always show up on a pressure test. A block check tester or an infrared exhaust analyzer can also be used to check to see if there is exhaust gas in the coolant."
Dennis
-Frank P.