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Nissan 300ZX, all models

13

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might check for a frozen u-joint in the drive shaft or bad driveshaft bearing/bushing if it is a two-piece system.
  • jamescopejamescope Member Posts: 1
    I can't see at night! The dealer wants about $250 each for OEM lights. Does anybody know of any after market...possibly xenon lights? I want BRIGHT!!!
    James
  • mciceteademciceteade Member Posts: 5
    they got like 6 or 7 salvage ones on the lot they mail you if you pay upfront

    http://www.okla-foreignparts.com/
  • triggztriggz Member Posts: 1
    GO TO A DEALER OR ARE THEY REDILY AVAILABLE AT AUTO PARTS STORES IN CALIFORNIA?
  • theoffendertheoffender Member Posts: 2
    I entered my '85 Z in a contest at www.texacocarofthedecades.com. Help vote for it by registering for an account first. Here's the link to my car: link title
  • pat_theisenpat_theisen Member Posts: 1
    hi anyone selling or parting out a 1987 300zx i would like the hood to be red but color doesnt really matter as long as its not gray if you have one could you let me know how much your selling it for.
  • darkmanndarkmann Member Posts: 16
    Don't know your location, but East Coast Z in Chesapeake, VA has a ton of Z and Z parts for reasonable price. Check them out.
  • darkmanndarkmann Member Posts: 16
    Just stumbled upon this post and it jolted my love for my Z. Mine is a 89T GLL. black/black-gray with just over 250K on the ODO?? I really love this car. It's been extremely reliable over the years and does its job very well. Over the past 10yrs, it became my daily driver, consuming 90miles/day as I commute back/forth to work. The A/T died on me several years ago and I swapped for a 5-spd. Car's character changed completely. I upgraded the suspension - Illuminas all around along with stiffer SS springs. I put in a new driver's seat just this summer, and have had to replace several wear items, mostly in the front suspension area. However, with old age comes leaks and in the past few months I have had to do a rear main seal, clutch, flywheel and associated bearings, replaced front wheel bearings and decided not to fix the small oil pan leak - not yet. But other than that, the car still kicks. Unfortunately, I have gotten older and have been blessed tremendously with the opportunity to drive some of the best from Japan and Germany, and as much as I love my Z, it's really no match for the newer cars. So, I'm in the market for a Z32TT. Just can't give up on these cars, no way!!!!">
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    "...Illuminas all around..." What are "illuminas"?

    Also, does your '85 Z have rust? I understand the floor area under the hatch is vulnerable to rust on the Z31s. Is that where yours leaks, or is it the T-Top?
  • darkmanndarkmann Member Posts: 16
    Mine is a 89 not a 85. The car came with adjustable shocks. I took the shocks and springs out a few years back and replaced the shocks with Tokicko Illumina adjustable shocks. I also upgraded the springs to those found on the SS model - the high end special edition Z31 that was made in 1988. No rust on mine and no water leaks. But you're correct about the rut thing, especially in the snow/salt belts in the north. I do get a small spray of water on the driver's window glass (through the window trim/seal) when I use the high pressure car wash system. Lately, I have started seeing a drop/couple of days of oil on the floor. My bet is the oil pan gasket, which is about a $700 repair work at the dealer.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Yes, you did say yours is an '89, which is the last model year for the Z31 series. I have an '88 2+2 with 174,000 miles, and it's been an excellent car. Some rust has started to appear on the left rear wheel well. It's pretty leak free, except on occasion, during a heavy down pour, a few drops will enter from the passenger side window. If I open the window an inch or two, it seals completely.

    This year I had the valve cover gaskets replaced because they leaked. The leak wasn't real bad, but enough to leave a visible amount of oil on the pavement. The engine is very tight, and gives the impression it has a lot of miles left in it.
  • darkmanndarkmann Member Posts: 16
    Totally agree. Mine is still pulling strong. No rust whatsoever and the car still looks very good!!!! But I will have to let her go because I want a 90-96 Z32TT.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    What I had intended to say, was "If I open the window an inch or two..." and then reclose it, the leak is eliminated.

    Good Luck on finding a nice Z32TT. Let us know what you buy, and, if you don't mind, what you get for your Z31.
  • tamitttamitt Member Posts: 1
    goes to the floor, I have checked the master cylinder and adjusted the pedal and bled the system in both places and i think i have pressure, it feels good ...and then I drive it and lose it all. What could I be doing wrong? Nissan 300zx twin turbo
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    "My clutch pedal goes to the floor."

    You probably need a new slave cylinder. I'd be interested in knowing whether that's what's wrong, and, if you care to tell us, how much it cost to fix it.
  • joe85zxjoe85zx Member Posts: 1
    Hi all. I just bought an '85 300zx turbo (I know, it seems people warn against this often) with about 117,000 miles on it.

    At the moment, the only problem I can see is the voltmeter spiking here and there for a couple minutes, and then dropping back down to around 14. It'll hit 18 when it spikes. This has happened a few times now but it usually drops again after a short while running. Nothing has erupted from the battery and no electrical components have stopped functioning, though the lights on the climate control system waver in brightness. However, the electronic gas gauge shifts quite often between 3 and even 4 bars, so I'm not sure if there is a flaw in the voltmeter, or if the sensors for the electronic dash items may be wearing. Should be looking to replace the fan belt/alternator immediately, or is the short term spiking something that isn't too drastic?

    Any and all help would be much appreciated.

    Joe
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,707
    Just make sure it is spiking - borrow a voltmeter and confirm.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 57,143
    Speaking of these, a nice looking survivor just popped up on the local Craigslist

    Slushbox of course, but it looks good
  • bodawgbodawg Member Posts: 1
    MCP: There MAYBE another component in the "CLUTCH SYSTEM called a "DAMPER CLUTCH" . Follow your Clutch line to the passenger underside of the car. it kinda looks like an american solenoid, not very big. But it's in between the Master and the Slave Cylinders. Replace that, Bleed the system again and that should solve your "Pedal to the floor problem". Those little things cost but are simple to put on.........if you have small hands.
  • dillybirddillybird Member Posts: 1
    Hi there...
    i am trying to find body parts for my 90 300zx twin turbo... does anyone know of any good web sites? Much appreciated!
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    Back in November 1990 Nissan issued a 300ZX Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) NTB90102, also referenced BF90018 regarding a rattle noise in the door area from the door striker. Can anyone tell me details about this fix? I don't own a 300ZX*, but have a Nissan with the same problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.

    * I do have two friends with 300ZX's tho! :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    90nissan07

    Classification: Section:
    BF90-018 BODY & FRAME

    Reference:
    TECHNICAL BULLETIN NTB90-102
    Models:
    1990 300ZX Date:
    NOVEMBER 29, 1990
    1990 300ZX RATTLE NOISE FROM THE

    FRONT DOOR STRIKER
    APPLIED MODEL: 1990 300ZX

    APPLIED VIN AND DATE: 2-Seater, JN1RZ24A-LX018726 04/11/90
    2+2 Seater, JN1RZ26A-LX012050 04/10/90
    Turbo, JN1CZ24A-LX005258 04/12/90

    SERVICE INFORMATION:
    On some 300ZX vehicles, customers may complain of a rattle noise from the door striker when driving over rough roads. This rattle noise is generated at the door striker and door panel when driving over rough road surfaces and is caused by the door's movement relative to the body of the vehicle.


    Upper Door Hook Rattle

    Inspect the upper door hook striker to confirm that it is not making any noise. No contact between the door hook and the upper door hook striker should occur in the normal operation of this assembly. If there are any marks on either unit, adjust to prevent the contact. Adjustment may be required at either the door hook or the upper door hook striker dependent upon the nature of the contact. The units are illustrated below:
    NOTE: One way to determine if contact is occurring, is to hold the door handle up as the door is slowly closed to listen for any upper door striker noise which would indicate that contact is being made.


    Lower Striker Rattle

    If the incident rattle noise has been confirmed to occur at the door striker latch mechanism (illustrated below), a countermeasure shim can be installed between the door striker and the door panel. This shim is made of aluminum and reduces the gap between the door striker and the body hook.

    PARTS INFORMATION:

    PART NAME COUNTERMEASURE PART FORMER PART

    Shim-Door hinge 80575-50Y00 --------
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    That's GREAT! Thanks a bunch for the TSB narrative -- it's given me a good course of action and some ideas. Wonderful. Again, thanks very much.
  • ttoupalttoupal Member Posts: 1
    the alternator must be replaced now! it contains the voltage regulator and it is integrated and must be failing.

    if you have to drive the car, turn on everything you can to dissipate the voltage spikes. try to get an alternator with a three year warranty; anything less than that will fail and you will find yourself repeating this cycle.

    I had a 1995 300zx, and replaced the alternator three times between 1998 and 1992. back then i had bad luck finding oem replacement parts and refuesed to let the dealer charge twice the price. anyway, that car has many nice electronic accessories and tends to burden the voltage regulator to the point of failure.

    try nappa.
  • kdawg67kdawg67 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 86 turbo 300 everythings fine except my air conditioner won't blow out of the vents i've tried everything, vacuum hoses can some help me please
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is your compressor clutch clicking on and off when you hit the AC switch? You can hear this even without the engine running as long as the key is to the ON position.
  • smoricismorici Member Posts: 1
    I agree with Mr. Shiftright. I appraise 50-60 cars a week and experience about a 10-15% accuracy rate. Beyond the underbody inspection a paint meter is a must professionally or as a hobbyist. It has helped me save 10's of 1000's of dollars in losses on vehicles that I have taken in trade with undisclosed damage. I personally recommend the FenderSplendor FS 488. I have had 2 for over a year and they are inexpensive very accurate and easy to use.
  • shooot55shooot55 Member Posts: 1
    What's the noticeable difference's between the 2+2 and the GS model's
  • madog3madog3 Member Posts: 3
    Need more info: Was any work done when it stopped? Will the blower work but no air out of AC? (will it blow heat?). Which AC controls does your car have?
  • 300pilot300pilot Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 86 300zx non-turbo 5sp in GA, dealer said he sold it to a good customer who drove it to FL and it quit,towed back to dealer and I bought it. It starts for about 1sec. and quits. Valdosta nissan said that it had a 84 ecm harness and it wouldn't work but it's obvious that the car ran with this harness. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I've swapped out dist, crank sens, cyl temp sens. fuel pump, fuel pres sens, w/used units, all with the same result, starts and quits. and ecm's too. i've wrenched on motors for years, what am I missing? It's driving me nuts! It's a beautiful car and i've had these z's for years. Oh please help me z gurus.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if indeed it has a cobbled up '84 harness in there, your problem could be anywhere in the harness. It sounds to me like some vital signal from a sensor to the ECM is getting lost or misinterpreted, doesn't it?

    You may need a factory manual and a good diagnostic computer to figure this one out. Once modifications have been made, all bets are off. You may need to initiate the tedious process of checking voltages and signals at each ECM port.
  • lokkilokki Member Posts: 1,200
    I had this exact problem on an Acura Integra. It would crank and start and die.

    Sometimes it would run but 98 percent of the time it just started and stopped.

    It turned out that the ignition switch in the steering column had cracked. When you turned the key to start, it would make contact and turn the starter. The engine would start, and I'd let go of the key. However, because of the crack in the switch, the key didn't fall all the way back to the 'run' position, contact would be broken, and the engine would stop.

    My dealer replaced about half of the fuel injection and ignition system before we figured it out.

    Probably isn't your problem, but hey! It's worth a look along those lines.

    Good luck.
  • madog3madog3 Member Posts: 3
    I tend to agree that if it ran B4, why not now? If the car just quit, as you were told and B4 you spend more money - get out your volt ohm meter and check out the fuse panel (driver's side kick panel) or (easier) - pull the panel loose and check the wire solder connertions on the rear. These joints have been known to break and the engine will start (sometimes) and then the viberation breaks the connection and the engine stops. Cross your fringers - give it a shot - good luck...
  • 300pilot300pilot Member Posts: 2
    I can't wait to get back to GR Michigan (I'm driving back from LA now) to try your suggestions, where can I get the manual the haynes ones don't have crap in them. I'll keep you posted. thanks 300pilot
  • madog3madog3 Member Posts: 3
    Got mine direct from Nissan (USA). Got the phone number from the local dealer's parts department, called (they do plastic) and presto - two weeks and a brand new 300ZX shop manual. Beware the manual is very good but have errors in it. You're right, the Haynes are only good for the outhouse (down here) or to start you're winter fire up where you are.
  • tomcat8tomcat8 Member Posts: 5
    I havea 1985 300zx. I SUSPECT MY CRANKSHAFT POS. SENSOR IS BAD. i cannot find it on car. I need a picture if you have one. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Didn't we answer this already? It's in your distributor.
  • silkie307silkie307 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 300ZX , 1988 and i do love it , it runs good , it not in as good shape as yours, i bought it used. now it's time for me to sell it , i hate to but its just time . but i need to get a passenger side T-Top for it . lightening must have hit it ,cause i went out one day and the glass was completely crystalize.

    if any one could give me advice on how to sell it or where to find a black smoked glass T-Top , that would be great.

    what about selling it for parts? cause no one will want to buy a car with only one t-top or 2 t-tops but in different colors and i heard they come in 10 or 12 different shades .
  • joelcurtisjoelcurtis Member Posts: 1
    when i get on it i get hot air out of vents also 5 speed 1988 300zx cant set speed green light comes on dash little set buton when i push dont wor i replace relay whole switch now what? thanks
  • dennis1029dennis1029 Member Posts: 3
    My cruise control was working then simply quit. Someone suggested I check the vacuum hose which I did and it appears to be working. Any other suggestions? I have some longer trips and would really like to have it in working conditions.

    Thanks

    Dennis
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can check your fuse box but often with these old cruise controls it is the electronic amplifier (module). But I hope not , as it is expensive. There is also a cruise control relay, (RH side of engine compartment in the relay box, marked I think A.S.C.D) a servo (vacuum operated and also on the RH fenderwell) and the cruise control switch itself in the driver's area. All need to be looked at.
  • dennis1029dennis1029 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, will check out all the things you mentioned.
  • ardycardyc Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1984 300ZX - T top, less than 50,000 miles. One owner. Stored in a garage. Driven few miles each year. Can anyone tell me what is the value of my Z and is there a good place on the web to advertise it? Oh yes, just one other thing -- it was painted a year back -- Porsche Purple. I love the car and as far as I know it is in perfect condition, but since I bought it in 1984 my life has changed dramatically and it is time to let it go. It is an automatic. Has bucket seats and back seat. Thanks.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    As the owner of a much higher mileage '88 2+2, I'd guess your car might fetch $3,000-$3,900 in a sale-by-owner. Sure, it's very low mileage, well maintained and original owner, all pluses, but it's also old, and this model has only modest collector interest. You might want to ask a bit more, then accept the best offer you get. Shifty, what do you think?

    As for where to advertise it, this is clearly a Craigslist candidate. Good luck, and please let us know what happens.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think your appraisal is dead on. I'd advertise it at $3995 and see how it goes. Miles are a plus, but probably the automatic and the color are "neutral" attractions.
  • donnalynn210donnalynn210 Member Posts: 2
    Hi I wish to sell my datsun 300 zx 1988 car. It is red original paint
    great condition, almost 80,000 miles.
    turbo t roof air leather
    one small rip on drivers seat can be repaired
    does anyone have a value
    garaged until jan 2009
    do not have a garage anylonger and wish to sell before the elements take their toll.
    thanks for any suggestions
    donnalynn
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Is it a manual or automatic? Anything else wrong or imperfect besides the small rip on the driver's seat? Are you the original owner, and, if not, how many owners has it had? Do you have service records (preferably complete)? What maintenance or repairs have been performed in the past 12 months or 10,000 miles?
  • willynale16willynale16 Member Posts: 5
    just bought my first car,which happens to be an 87 300zx 5spd. no turbo. completely stock. 200k on it. just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on keeping it well maintained beyond the normal tuneups and what not?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well with that much mileage, certainly you'd want to check all your belts and hoses for cracks (belts) or softness (hoses). Probably you should flush your brake and clutch fluids if they are the least bit dirty (should be clear and honey-colored). I'd also put the car on a lift and take some wrenches and sockets and snug up anything you can find.

    Oh, the tires. check the tire date. If they are really old, you might think about replacing them. Old hard tires, even if they have "meat" on them, make the car handle really lousy.
  • willynale16willynale16 Member Posts: 5
    yeah thats kinda what sold the car for me is that it had new tires on it. and he didn't want very much for it. the car has been really fun for me,i looovvvee the ttop. the clutch is still solid but the brakes are kinda iffy. ill take your advice. luckily i have access to a lift. probably should just go ahead and replace every gasket in the engine i can huh? it has a god bit of what looks like dried up oil around the bottom of the engine block.
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