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There's nothing wrong with a vehicle that has been expertly, professionally repaired except that the car will always have a black mark on it. I personally wouldn't buy a salvage vehicle unless you could steal it for perhaps 50% of value.
Also, does anyone know a great ZX specialist in the Miami-Ft. Lauderdale FL. area? Thanks, Lee in Miami
My question is regarding any common problems known with these cars. Can you tell me what I should look for when test driving it? I realize anything could go wrong with old cars, but it's hard to find good info on these classics.
Thank You.
My main concern with anyone buying a 280ZX is not to pay too much for it, and don't work under the optimistic assumption that it will be worth money as a collectible. This doesn't seem to be the case.
Asll the better for you, as you can get yourself a nice fun ride for not a lot of money.
Another consideration on buying old Japanese cars is that there is not much of an aftermarket on some pieces, like trim parts, body panels, etc. So if you buy an older japanese car with serious cosmetic issues, you could have a hell of a time correcting those at any reasonable cost.
-Jason
The only chronic problems with this model are electrical short gremlins and steering wheel vibration problems. If not abused, the engines will go over 200K miles w/o sipping a drop of oil.
I asked Susan who used to have the car and she told me it was a couple in their 40's and they had bought the car new in 96. They traded it for a 2003 350Z.
Listed below are the details on the 300ZX:
72,825 miles
Non-Turbo
2 seater
perfect interior
perfect exterior
Black
Black leather interior
T-tops
Power Drivers seat
5-speed
Compact disc Bose stereo system
Auto climate control
etc.
Is this vehicle worth the $14,995?
If it's a regular 2 dr. I'd say it's just retail pricing. Their $16.9K was over market so no wonder nobody bit. It might be "good" buy at $12,500 if it checks out really well. It's a complex car so you want to go over every nut and bolt here. But if you paid $15K it wouldn't be overpriced necessarily if it was a really sharp car--just no bargain. A retail sale.
My suggestion would be to bargain it down or find similar car through private party sources. Unless you can't get financing from other sources and in that case, you could be stuck.
First you check compression. Then you check for spark. If there's spark , you check fuel delivery. If no spark, you check each component that delivers spark, starting at the back of the chain (battery--ignition switch--ignition module--coil or coil packs--wires---plugs). If no fuel, you do the same....fuel pump, pressur in fuel rail, noid light on injectors to check for injector pulse (and whatever fires the injector pulse on your car).
And so it goes till you nail it.
But it's important to start a "tree" on pad and paper and not to start guessingly wildly or you'll get lost as to what you did and didn't do.
Just go here and sign up. Through the "friends" feature, you can let anyone else on the board here know that you've got a page set up with photos of your car.
www.carspace.com
thanks!
MrShiftright
Host
This isn't a car you'd want to put a lot of money into however, as they aren't worth all that much and probably never will be. So you have to keep your head about this and how far you want to get into it.
Based on your description, I am not sure if this is your problem or not. Does it restart easily after it cuts out? Is it a very sudden problem?
Given the random nature one might expect an electrical glitch. You could try a simple test and run your engine at night and look to see if there is spark leakage from your spark plug wires.
Otherwise, you might get the engine scanned to see if anything turns up. Possibly you'd have to get a mechanic to just tighten and clean all vital electrical connections. You might get lucky.
I don't recall on this car---is there an auxiliary electric cooling fan that is supposed to cut in with the AC on, in addition to the regular fan?
You know, 3/4 on the guage isn't necessarily a bad thing, as long as the car isn't overheating. Engines like to run on the hot side.
Also have you replaced your radiator cap? Any leak in pressure will drop the boiling point of water/coolant.
Yes there is an auxiliary fan for the a/c, it comes on & works. And now you mention it, the flusher guy did replace the cap. But running at 3/4, it smells like it's hot, it's close to an overheat... that's just too hot, & why after 6 summers did it run at 3/8 & now it's up there? I know they like to run hotter, but really, that it too hot. Ok, I just had it out & about for 1/2 with the air on, it's at 3/8 ! This doesn't make sense.
As for the radiator, often they must be taken out and cleaned chemically or replaced. I think a radiator shop could flow test it and then you have a definitive answer.
Generally speaking, if you overheat while at idle, it's an air circulation problem and if you overheat as you drive, it's a water circulation problem.
I have a 1991 300zx N/A. my engine is bad and needs to be replaced so imp thinking of installing a twin turbo engine and trans from another 300zxtt.
Can I do that? And if I can I want to install a bigger turbo any advice or recommendations???
Thanks for helping.
thanks
allright i bought it on a car auction and ran it out of gas on my way home (dumbass).
allright i fixed the fuel pump (replaced)
i had a radiator leak on the waterpump seal also fixed (replaced pump and seal)
now i got an bad temp.sensor(motor temperature choke control) i just have it pluged in to start the motor then once it is warm enough i unplug it
works it runs just fine http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/- emotorcons/emo_sick.gif
now to the problem:
if i drive around the block the motor cuts out just dies suddenly.
the rpm`s idel run about 1800 2000 rpms
it is almost like it is doesn`t get gas or the spark is cutting out
and it smokes a little bit wierdin the motor compartment
i`m lost now i just don`t know any further
please help be cool
joe :sick:
cool that let`s the rpm`s go down once i pluged it in cool that was a good tip
now if the motor runs it still akts out a little bit one it is warm and dies so now that the motor is of i noticed like the humming of the fuel pump all the time and the humming of the fuel pressure regulator or in that area.
could it be that my fuel pressure regulator is stuck?
when i pulled the vakum hose on top of it off i had no fuel shooting out whitch makes me belief that it is not broke.
but could it be stuck?
but it is not normal that the fuelpump is running all the time and it can`t be good for it either?
it has to be something small that is giving me hell.