Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
cb13
Many truck based and performance vehicles "Shift" into the next gear. The shifts are more positive. Less wear on the clutches or bands when the shifts are positive instead of slipping.
Kip
I'm having some intremitten hard shifts with mine and it seems to stay in a lower gear way too long - affecting fuel economy.
Thanks,
Robbie
Everything was running fine, then one morning, I pulled out of the driveway and the "D" light was flashing. I immediately pulled over and put it in park. While in park, the car would still move forward if I took my foot off the brake. I then had the car towed to the dealer, hopefully to prevent damaging the tranny. I probably only drove about 100 feet with the "D" light flashing. The dealer called back the next day and said it needed a whole new transmission. I was shocked. They said the problem was the shift control solenoid valve. They tried replacing just that, but it didn't fix it, so they said I needed to replace the whole thing. They actually called Honda headquarters for me, and Honda agreed to pay for it. Later, I called Honda and asked them to give me a 100k warranty on the powertrain, since it was ridiculous that the transmission would go out at 38k miles. They denied my request, and basically said I should be happy that they did what they did (which I was). I have about 7k on the remanufactured transmission, and, so far, haven't had any problems.
We are wanting to get one of those small fiberglass "Egg" campers. They weigh from about 1200 lbs for the 13' to about 2000# for the 16 footers.
My understanding is that the Pilot is supposed to have the tow capacity of a 4500# boat or 3500# trailer. Probably due to the wind resistance of the front of a trailer. Also they say that anything over 1000# should have brakes.
We have the $900 tow package. Problem is it only supplies a 4 pin wiring connector. A camper (other than tiny pop ups) requires a 7 pin connector, to operate the trailer electric brakes, charge the trailer battery and so forth. What gives??
Can the pilots be wired for a 7 pin connector and the brake controller that mounts under the dash?
A friend just bought a Ridgeline. It's tow package has the 7 pin connector and a pig tail for plugging in under the dash for the controller.
Thanks,
Kip
I found that a pigtail is available for the Ridgeline but don't know if it works for the Pilot:
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/product_info.php?pName=trailer-hitch-harnessridge- - - line
Here are some other options:
http://www.bageco.com/adapter.htm
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=50- - 26&categoryID=284
If the RV/Trailer company can't get you rigged-up then check out a local boat dealer or U-Haul.
Good Luck, Let us know how it goes.
Joe
I checked with the local Honda Dealer's Service Manager.
He said they had never installed a 7 pin connector on the back of a Pilot. After doing some more checking he said the connector was not available, and neither was a pig tail for the brake controller.
He suggested a local "Hitch" shop. I've been sent to that particular shop by a Dodge dealer to have similar work done on the 98 ram we traded for the Pilot. They do excellent work. I visited them late yesterday, and they are going to do a "Turn Key" including the 7 pin connector, a wiring harness and the brake controller. The controller he uses is the P3. From everything I've read, it works perfectly and is rated as one of the very best. It is manufactured by the same company that makes the "Prodigy" controller. It is kind of like a "Prodigy" on steroids, and fairly expensive.
My next door neighbor got a P3 for his new Ridgeline. We installed it a couple of days ago. Biggest problem was finding the Plug under the dash for the Honda supplied pig tail to plug into.
It irritates me that Honda sells the Pilot as a SUV capable of towing a 4500# boat or 3500# any other trailer. Then the $900 tow package only supplies a 4 pin connector, suitable for a boat or utility trailer. Then they say that any trailer over 1000# should have brakes. The only brakes they allow us to use are surge brakes that react after the fact. The 4 pin connector won't operate electric brakes.
On the Ridgeline tow package they supply a 7 pin connector, and all the wiring including the pig tail for the controller. Sometimes I think the good folks at Honda have their heads stuck where the sun don't shine.
For those that don't know: Surge brakes have a device built into the trailer hitch head. If the tow vehicle makes a fairly quick stop, the trailer pushes against the tow vehicle and the hitch head actually moves a little. This movement activates a hydrolic brake line to the trailer brakes. The harder it pushes against the tow, the more brake is applied.
The type electric brake I'm getting is operated electronically. When set up correctly, the trailer brake is operated at the same time or even a split second before the vehicle brakes. Some type of magic inside the controller senses the urgency of the stop and applies more or less voltage to the trailer brakes.
Rant over!
Kip
What is the 7 pin setup going to cost? I agree that Honda should have outfitted the Pilot with the 7 pin instead of the 4 pin. I thought it was lousey, for a $900-1000 Tow Option. I tow a 5 x14 ATV Trailer and a 6 x 12 Enclosed Trailer with my pilot and it seems to pull decent. Gas milage goes to 12-13 mpg. with the enclosed trailer behind loaded or not.
Nice post on detailing the options we have to fixing this problem.
Woody
The hitch shop is charging $329 for the wiring, connector, and the Controller installed and ready to go. Seems a bit high, but we sometimes have to pay for quality work. Also I haven't had anything like that done in many years, so I don't know the rates these days.
The P3 alone is $169 from his shop. My neighbor got his on eBay for $130 + shipping. I think it best to pay him the price as he is doing the whole job and guaranteeing his work.
When you tow your enclosed trailer and get that 12-13 mpg;
What type of driving and speeds is that? Local, highway, etc.. Does that trailer have a flat front or the more "V" pointed one?
Thanks,
Kip
"I have a noise appearing on and off which is louder when I stop at red lights or slow down. It sounds like water with air bubbles flowing under pressure through pipes, probably heard better from the right front vent. Also it seems that AC is not very efficient. Dealer in Grand HONDA in Chicago said AC was OK and ignored noise completely, saing initially that it was normal, next time that they could not reproduce it. It comes very often. Any ideas? "
The noise I am experiencing appears every time the AC has been on for a few minutes. I even hear the noise when I slow down to make sharp turns without braking. The noise can be heard behind the radio, front left and right vents. Any information you could share would be appreciated.
Noise that bothers me most is the single "KNOCK" that occasionally happens a few seconds after starting a cold engine. It is just one knock that emulates a pair of human knuckles striking a desk or door.
Kip
I tow a 6 x 12 enclosed trailer. It is designed for Motorcycles and has a rear drawbridge door. I have been running down the interstate for ~65 miles then 2 lane for another 8 or so miles (each way), then returning with furniture and/or boxes of stuff we have been cleaning out of my mom's house. The trip is rolling hills thru Central KY country side.
The trailer pulls well, but it doesn't seem to make much difference in mpg if I run 65mph or 80mph. At 65mph it tends to run in 4th gear or lug in 5th. At this speed it tends to just stay in 4th. At 80-85mph the tranny does shift to 5th and the RPMs are high enought it doesn't shift down into 4th as much because it can keep its speed. KY has just raised the speed limit to 70 from 65 so running 80-85 isn't that hard. I have been getting about 13.5-14mpg on these trips. This trailer has a rounded front (top half) but you know you are dragging wind.
I also pull my ATV (5 x 14) open trailer, it has a wood floor but is not nearly as heavy and isn't so hard to pull thru the air. I load my 4x4 and other junk to a farm for hunting. It is 113 miles each way and with 100 of it on the interstate. I get about 16-17mpg on these trips running about 75-80mph most of the way. Again rolling hills although larger than the one to my mom's place.
Hope this helps,
Woody
hon,
Please refer back to post 2635. With a "RANT" follow up on 2637.
Thanks,
Kip
What is the maintenance interval that you guys follow for honda pilot lx 2003. I was doing oil changes and services every 3750 miles, until today when the honda dealer service people told me that i can get the service done every 5000 miles.
I am in the northeast.
I let the Honda dealer do the minor and major services at 7.5k and 15k intervals. Got a big one coming up in a few months at 30,000.
When I was putting 15K-20K a year on a car, the oil and filter were changed at 5000 miles. Worked out to about every 3-4 months or so.
Kip
You are right! That is exactly what they are saying, and it is extremely stupid reasoning, in my opinion. We can overload anything.
Honda says that any towed trailer over 1000# should have brakes. So Honda gives us only one choice! The most inefficient type of trailer brakes. Surge brakes.
This type of brake only "reacts" after we attempt to stop. Also there is no real adjustment on this type of brake, other than the force the trailer applies on the tow vehicle.
Apparently, in Honda's view, it is OK to tow a utility trailer, that we can overload, with the most inefficient brake going, but not OK to tow the same weight with much better brakes that can be "Tuned" for the trailer weight and actually aid in braking.
Strange that they supply all the goodies, including the 7 pin connector, with the Ridgeline tow package. Could it be that they figure the Ridgeline owners to have more intelligence than Pilot owners?
If they are convinced that we are going to tow too much weight, then they shouldn't offer the tow package on any of their vehicles. :mad:
Rant over!
Thanks,
Kip
I'm not upset at your questions, because you are trying to help? I am upset with Honda.
We have had 6-8 campers from 16-30 feet in length. Can't even venture a guess as to how many miles we have towed them. These were all hard side campers that did not fold or telescope. In spite of the best hitches and stay control methods and gadgets, and proper loading techniques, cross winds and 18 wheelers passing can cause a camper to begin swaying. Often times simply stepping on the throttle can get things back to normal. However, sometimes that is not an option. Going down a steep hill and applying the brakes while a trailer is swaying is inviting a jack knife or worse with surge brakes, because they don't work until the trailer is applying considerable force on the tow vehicle.
Another method is to apply the trailer brakes without applying the tow vehicle brakes. That is done with a control mounted under the dash and electric brakes. . Just a touch with the hand or tapping the tow vehicle brake will apply the trailer brake and pull the trailer back in line. Very gently applying the tow vehicles brake will slow the trailer down because when properly set up the electric trailer brakes react a moment before the tow vehicle's
My boats and some utility trailers have had or still do have surge brakes, which are better than nothing but not good enough for a travel trailer.
Thanks
Kip
Some light weight pop ups and very small and low, hard sided, campers weighing less than 1000 pounds may come with surge brakes and a 4 pin connector. All "Normal" campers come with electric brakes and 7 pin connectors.. Surge brakes are not an option because electric brakes work better and are much safer.
Honda is telling us we can tow a 3500# normal flat fronted trailer, BUT we can't use its brakes, brake lights, running lights, turn signal or charge the camper battery. The camper 7 pin connector will not plug into the 4 pin connector on the Pilot. There may be an aftermarket pig tail that will reduce the 7 pin to a 4 pin that will plug into the Pilot. Then the lights will work. Still, No Brakes at all! :sick:
The tow package on a Pilot is near $1000. On a Ridgeline it is less than $700 which includes a 7 pin connector a camper can plug into and a pig tail for the under the dash electric brake controller. Of course one difference in cost is that all Ridgelines come with serious PS and Tranny cooler from the factory. Much better than the Pipe with fins that is part of the Pilot "Coolers" in the tow package.
We have enjoyed this Pilot more than any other vehicle we have owned. However Honda's attitude regarding this matter really sucks.
Can you imagine a question like, "why would you want to tow a camper"?
Answer: "Because I want to go camping."
Honda: The Pilot isn't designed to pull a heavy camper.
Me: What is the Pilot designed to pull?
Honda: A 4500# boat or a 3500# trailer.
Me: What kind of 3500# trailer.
Honda: Any kind that doesn't exceed 3500#.
Me: OK, I want to tow a 2000# travel trailer.
Honda: The Pilot will easily do that!
Me: As I said earlier, all Travel Trailers over a few hundred pounds come with 7 pin connectors. How do I get a Honda authorized 7 pin connector installed on my Pilot, so I can tow that Trailer?
Honda: You won't be able to get a 7 pin connector for your Pilot.
"Their bottom line is "You won't be able to safely tow a camper unless it has surge brakes."
My bottom line is: Then when I replace this Pilot next year, it won't be with another Pilot that can't safely tow and stop a 2000# Travel trailer. Because 2000# Travel Trailers have electric brakes. It is the industry standard!"
Rant over again!
Kip
Your post is over on the Pilot Towing forum. Along with a reply.
Kip
I'm buying a 2008 Pilot and debating the towing pkg. At $900 its pretty steep vs local guy installing just the hitch and wiring. My question is: how necessary is the tranny fluid & auto-steering fluid chiller thingys? I wouldn't be towing very often but when did would be 13' boston whaler or the random uhaul trailer. Again, very infrequently. However, I seem to have read that towing w/o the chiller things might void the mfg warranty?!?!? Am I dreaming that? Thoughts???
http://www.handa-accessories.com/pilot.html
Notice there are also installation instructions.
The hitch itself is heavy and expensive to ship.
If I were doing it again, I would order the Tranny cooler, PS cooler and pigtail/4 pin connector, which plugs in to an existing connector, for the rear. Let the local hitch house install a good hitch receiver and the Honda parts, IF it would save a couple hundred bucks over just having the dealer do the whole thing.
With a hitch and wiring by the local hitch shop, any problems with any wiring or any tranny problems could be blamed on the "After Market" stuff. Even if they are installed perfectly.
I don't care to hear:
"Whoever installed that non Honda cooler, didn't use the right parts, and now the tranny needs replacing . They also overloaded a circuit when they spliced in the wiring. Blah...Blah...Blah...!" :mad:
I have the "Honda" Tow Package. Right now I'm having a problem with the "Side Airbag Off" light flickering when towing a lightweight utility trailer.
I can just imagine the grief I would get, if they start looking for the problem and should discover aftermarket "Splicing". :sick:
Kip
Very nice folks only one compliant the WIFI access at dealership was not working so I had to take shuttle to work.
Pilot has 36,686 miles at time of service.
thanks to all
armando
Any suggestion on what's wrong?
Thanks,
Warren
Turned out that an overly sensitive fob, walking motion with the fob/keys in a front pocket, dropping the Keys/fob onto a seat or other surface in or near the Pilot would/could/did lock and unlock the doors.
I'm not a big fan of fobs, so it doesn't bother me for it to be retired and in a drawer.
Kip
my pilot has 44,000 year 2004 isn't it too soon to get brakes?, I leased this car in 2005.
I'll let someone else field your mileage inquiry, though new brakes at 44,000 miles strikes me as being about right.
cwoody
The miles on our (my wife's) Pilot is mixed driving. We do take it on vacation trips but most of the miles are taking the kid to school, grocery shopping, that sort of driving. I do pull a trailer (without trailer brakes) at times because it gets better gas miliage that my old truck. My wife drives it most of the time and she is easy on the brakes for the most part. Easier than me anyway.... My wife's sister has an '03 Pilot and they put front pads on at 65,000 miles. Her husband said it still had some pads left but thought at 65,000 miles it was time to replace them anyway and she was using the pilot for work so he felt better about her driving around with new pads. He had a shop d the brakes and did not see the old pads so he didn't know how much was left on the old ones.
When I looked at the front pads on our Pilot I was surprised how much was left. They really are not too had to check. Don't remember if I took off the front wheels or not....seems like I did....sorry old brain.....I do remember it was at least a 1/4 inch or more otherwise I would have changed them.
Cwoody
I should not have gone on to speculate about how long before your first brake job based on my own personal experience with other vehicles. Fact is my Pilot only has about 14,000 miles and is far from its first brake job. You'd be better served by responses from owners of higher mileage Pilots (such as your in-laws) who have already had their first brake jobs.
How did they break down the charges? How much for parts and how much for labor?
Kip
Aren't these fog lights built to take a hit from stones? I have never had a stone punch a hole through the lens of any driving light or fog light..