Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair

jensad · April 2008

We own a 06 Pilot exl for almost two years. I have empathy for those who have had a negative experience/mechanical problems with their Pilot. And I have complained re; my other former vehcile, a Lexus RX 330.

I just wanted to say it is most important to mention the issues that decrease one's experience with one's car, and I just wanted to express how satisified we are with our Pilot. I think we are fortunate not to have these issues YET.

Thanks to all for helping us keep abreast of the issues and helping us to look for if there are issues.

Good luck to all and stay safe

jensad

rodut · April 2008

Thanks bigdadi (for the Hunter website) but I have a very long history of going into repair shops with one minor problem, and leaving the shop with 3 bigger problems. The vibration is minor (I have to lift my hands from the steering wheel to be able to see it), and it happens only at 75mph or more, so it's a very effective speed control tool. If I feel the vibration, I will slow down. These things are not race cars anyway.

I reached the conclusion that talking with people on these forums is way more effective than going to repair shops and have some idiots destroy your car. You read the website, you find out that your problem is actually a "standard feature" on lots of other Pilots, so you simply forget about it, and happily live your life !

Even if it's a "standard feature" as you TiaCia say, still they should have made the steering way harder at high speed. If it's so light, the brain must be used to decide how much to turn the steering wheel. On my Accord (and probably on your CR-V) the instinct was enough, because the feedback from the road was way better. The instinct was acting instantaneously (fast, so safe), but the brain needs some milliseconds to decide how much to turn the steering wheel.

Cheers

nvbanker · April 2008

Now, I don't know this for sure =- but it sounds like the genius engineers at Honda LEFT OUT the variable assist power steering that your 'Accord must have had, that reduces steering assist as the speed of the vehicle gets going faster - thus adding steering tautness at high speeds, and loosening it up for parking at low speeds. If they decided to cheap out and put in ordinary power assist - shame on them! THey must have hired some laid off designers from GM or something! :sick:

rodut · April 2008

Hi guys,

Did your Honda dealers offer "Electronic Rustproofing modules" ? Mine did.
I got the CM2000 module made by Final Coat, and I'd like to know if you ever heard about the success or failure of such modules. It's designed for cars, NOT for boats submerged in water (early electronic modules didn't work on cars, because they were relying on water as a conductive environment, but cars are rarely driven in the ocean).

On the "Krown Rustproofing" web site (oil guys), they say that the CM2000 is crap, and show some rusty steel panels unprotected by the CM2000, and other steel panels greatly protected by their oil (chemical). I know Krown is good for metal, but very bad for any rubber in the car (or even some electronics, after 7-8 years). What bothers me is that I know that Krown lies at least 2 times on their website:

1) they say that the manufacturers warranties are never affected by their oil (chemical) treatment. Which is a lie, because in my GMC Savana warranty booklet it's written that GM's rustproofing warranty is void if you aftermarket rustprotect the van (using oil or chemicals).
2) when they evaluate their competition effectiveness (the CM2000 electronic module), they test regular steel, not galvanized steel ! This is cheating, because cars are made using galvanized steel, and the CM2000 manufacturer (Final Coat) clearly states that the module will work on galvanized steel only !

Did you hear stories about people who actually used these modules ? It seems that people in Australia like them a lot ... (salty climate, driving on the ocean's beach, etc). Here in Canada it's even saltier (man made salt !).

cecill · April 2008

Own a 2004 Honda Pilot EXL with 4WD. It only has 22,000 miles on it. Yesterday I got a VTM-4 light and a Check Eng. The VTM-4 lite is steady but the activation switch has not been pushed. The Check Eng. is PO325. I reset it and after about a mile both lights come back on. Don't see how a Knock Sensor (PO325) and 4WD have anything to do with each other but they both come on at the same time. Any help out there???

rickywx · April 2008

This is the first good explanation I've heard on why the a/c runs with the defog. The dealer just told me it defrosted better. But I always thought that I was creating more wear and tear on the a/c system by running it more often. Even though your post was months ago, thanks! I can now defog worry-free!

ayalakay · May 2008

Hi again everyone, some backgrond for the record... in Jan. I turned in my '05 EX 4WD and came home with an '08 VP 4WD. I still love this truck even though filling up really hurts these days. I now have about 2700 miles on it and still only getting 14-15 MPG. Mostly city driving... during spring break we took a 'road trip' (3 hrs round trip on the NJ Turnpike) which resulted in 18 mpg overall - yay! Anyway, perhaps the take-your-life-in-your-hands driving style around here is to blame for poor mileage. Tires holding steady at 34 psi.

Now for the questions:

1. How important is the break in period to overall mileage, really? I must say I've never really been able to adhere to the "don't go over 50 for 300 miles" or whatever it is, simply because I probably would have been run off the road even on the way home from the dealer! Is it that critical? My mileage did improve in the '05 after probably 5,000 miles, so I am hoping for the same this time.

2. My dear daughter opened the passenger door into a metal signpost (a "No Parking 8-4" but it's OK, we were parking at 7!) and the door now has several miniscule chips all in a line, spanning about 4 inches - not a solid stripe (like keying). It's not glaringly noticeable but now I know it's there. The "Nimbus Gray" is all gone but I can't tell if it's down to the metal or not. Should I bother with touchup paint? Will I need to sand, compound, additional clear coat, etc. ? (the internet and its endless amounts of info can be quite overwhelming!) I know something like this will be covered under my lease terms, but it's bugging me.

Second: Many of you will gasp at this but I finally washed my car (by hand, that is) 2 weekends ago (and of course it rained within 12 hours thereafter). But while washing I noticed that two of the lug nuts have what look like black permanent marker written on them. I highly doubt this occurred after I brought it home and feel like it must have been there pre-delivery. Of course I picked it up at night, and never imagined I'd need to study the lugs in addition to everything else. So - does anyone know of a solvent that can remove this without damaging the metal? Or, what do you think the odds are that my dealer will give me two new ones?

OH and just a tip... for those of you with VP and the XM radio trial... search the web for XM $77 deal ... it really works - I now have it for the next year at a net cost of $5.34 per month!! Sweet! :shades:

Thanks everyone - I enjoy this site immensely even though I don't post often.
Cheers,
Kay

parviz · May 2008

I can respond to your comment regarding the break-in period. You no longer need to go 50 mph during the break-in period. All they ask you to do is to not maintain the same speed for an extended amount of time, don't accelerate too fast from stop and don't break harshly for the first 800 miles, at least that is for most of the newer cars, including Hondas.

strokeoluck2 · May 2008

Re: # 2, if you do a Google search for "dent and scratch repair" companies in your area you'll find plenty. I'd stick w/the better known companies (usually franchise operations) and they can probably fix it up for <$200.

Re: the black marker, you could probably take it off with a solvent of some kind, but if you don't have any handy just mention it to the dealer and I'm sure they'd do it at no cost. That's a pretty simple deal for the body shop I'm sure.

kipk · May 2008

A little rubbing alcohol on a rag will likely remove the marker from the lugs nuts.

prithis · May 2008

I just purchased a brand new 2008 Pilot last week. I re-fuelled it yesterday at the pump, and tightened the fuel cap by a couple of clicks. On starting the car, I immediately noticed that a "Check Fuel Cap" message started flashing on the dash. I stopped the car, tightened the fuel cap a few more clicks, and the light went away, but only after I completely took out the key and re-inserted it.

Is this normal?

rond1946 · May 2008

As far as the check engine light on is concerned, in most cases this is due to a missing or loose gas cap

parviz · May 2008

Lately I have noticed that when I drive the Pilot (EXL 4WD) a strange noise comes out of the engine compartment?, It kind of sound like another engine sound running next to the motor. It is steady in pitch and usually after it is over 20 mph speed. I checked the transmission (by putting it in N while making the noise) and it did not go away so I assume it is not the transmission. My 4WD light is off also so I don't think that is it, although it feels like it. Any ideas before I take it to the dealer? Thanks.

kipk · May 2008

Could it be a cooling fan for the engine or AC condenser ?

You could duplicate a fan sound by sitting still with the engine idling and turn on the AC. You will hear the fan come on under the hood. A steady muted roar. Then turn off the AC, and the fan should stop.

Is that the noise?

This was just a thought. , but probably not the culprit. Engine Cooling fans tend to be active, more so, when sitting still or moving very slow. They are also generally hard to hear when the car is moving, unless defective.

Might try turning the AC on and off when the noise starts, although I'm thinking that mostly anything mechanical would not be "steady". It would increase in frequency or speed as the car and/or engine does. Although anything is possible.

Can you duplicate the noise while sitting still, in neutral, by revving the engine to around 2000 or so?

Might try looking around under the hood, and under the car, for anything that might be "fluttering" in the wind created by the car moving. A loose piece of molding, insulation, mud flap, plastic shield, plastic grocery bag hitching a ride. etc...

Kip

hackdogg · May 2008

My noise is more a knock or thud coming from the back and Honda is telling me it is fuel. Nothing like a swish or a sound or a fluid, but they insist it is the gas tank.

Anyone have a similar sound? Was it the gas tank?

Thanks

Mike

parviz · May 2008

Thanks for the thoughts Kip. I did try the Ac and don't think that is it. Also, I don't think it is the fan since the noise or the sound stops when I stop the car and then comes back on after a short awhile. I did look under the hood very quickly but have not checked it as extensive as you have suggested. I will do that tonight to see if there is anything amiss. The sound is just like the engine sound, only louder, kinda like it is on 4WD mode, only it is not. Thanks again.

rodut · May 2008

Drive it with the gas tank almost empty (less than 10%). If you still hear the knock, then it's not the gas !

kipk · May 2008

I get that sound every once in a while. Seems it is mostly when making an abrupt stop, and more so when making that quick stop headed slightly up hill. Because it may "bump" more than once, I'm pretty sure it is indeed fuel forced against the front then up to the ceiling of the tank. Been doing it since new in January of 03.

There have been many post concerning it in these Pilot forums. Also, every once in a while, I get a sickening sweet smell when the car starts after sitting for several hours. Smells somewhat like Anti-Freeze. As my heater fan runs anytime the switch is on, I'm thinking I'm actually dragging some of the start up exhaust into the car, if a light breeze is aimed just right.

Kip

bigdadi118 · May 2008

I got the 08 VP 4x4 in May-01 ... which is about 3 weeks now.

The thing I don't feel right is the fabric driver seat (gray interior). My right hip bone seems feeling the problem of something like the cushioning down under isn't padded enough. It is not pain but feel of the pressure point there instead of my hip weight spreading evenly throughout the whole seat. I now started having consistent shoulder pain for past week or so and don't know whether it is related, reflected from the hip up due to seating position not square.

I know it is not my own hip problem because I traded in 07 Odyssey and that driver seat is pretty comfy, no such problem.

Wonder whether anyone has same problem?

mike274 · May 2008

Hello
I picked up my pilot a week ago and notices that there is rust between the tires and breaks. Anyone notice this?

Thanks,

stever · May 2008

An upholstery shop can rebuild the seat; add more foam, etc. Might be worth checking into or at least try some sort of pad on the seat cushion to see if that helps.

Sometimes seats aren't lined up well with the pedals and I've heard people complain about aches from that situation once in a while. No sure how you'd check that or adjust it - someone who does a lot of auto upholstery probably has seen it all.

If the seat angle is off, I wonder if you could take a long ride using the cruise control so you can move your feet around, and see if the pain isn't as noticeable.

kipk · May 2008

If you are speaking of the light film of rust that appears on the rotors AFTER SITTING OVER NIGHT, that is not uncommon.

The rotor sits just behind the wheel. They are round and flat like a DVD and will be shinny after driving a short distance. They can be seen through the wheel spokes. You may also notice a slight scraping sound when applying the brakes lightly, first thing. That is the brake calipers scraping the rust off.

Kip

bigdadi118 · May 2008

Steve

Thanks.

The Pilot is just 3 weeks old and seat problems, if dealer finds it is true (replicate it), should be covered under warranty. I plan to give the car to dealer a couple of day and let the decision maker drives it home/work to see the problem.

parviz · May 2008

Update - I took the Pilot to the dealer. It turns out that the front left ball bearing was bad. The dealer said 18k miles was too soon for something like that to happen but for some reason that was it..

kipk · May 2008

Glad they were able to find and fix the problem so quickly.

parviz · May 2008

Thanks, me too! Do you happen to know if replacing the ball bearing would require a realignment on the car or not? I think it is pulling to the right more than the normal tolerance since I took it back from the dealer but am not sure.

kipk · May 2008

Would think they would have checked the alignment after the replacement. But it can't hurt to let them check it out!

Kip

bigdadi118 · May 2008

Once they touched the wheel(s), they have to take care of it free if you found the alignment is off. It is possible they messed the alignment during procedure. If they won't do it free then complain to the Honda regional office. The service manager needs to respond to you due to pressure from Honda customer service. The key point is "Did the repair job involve the wheel?", which in your case, it is.

parviz · May 2008

thank you both. They are closed today. I'll give the service advisor a call tomorrow.

rodut · May 2008

Kipk, do you see an obvious difference between the front rotors and the rear rotors ? I am asking because after 600 miles (since brand new) the rear rotors still are not perfectly clean (like a mirror). The front rotors were perfectly clean after the 1st day !

It looks like the rear brake pads barely touch the rear rotors, like 99% of the braking would be done by the front brakes.

Did somebody else had the REAR brake rotors not perfectly clean after 600 miles ???

Thanks

kipk · May 2008

Rodut,

A higher % of the braking is done by the front brakes. If your car goes for a while without a bath, you can see more of that reddish-gray brake dust accumulated on the front wheels than the rear ones. There is "valving" in the brake system to deal with all that.

I'm pretty sure the brake shoes actually drag on the rotors a tiny amount, even when the brakes are not being applied. (for what that's worth) Also believe there is no adjustment for the brakes, as in days of yore. All that is built in these days.

Just looked at mine, and they appear to be the same degree of clean. But mine have about 30K miles on them.

Kip

carat414 · May 2008

My son accidently put 14 gallons of e-85 in my 2005 Honda Pilot. I called the dealership and was told that it shouldn't cause any major issues that I should drive it out as soon as possible and replace it with high grade gas when I get to a half a tank.
This morning on the way to work my VTM-4 light and the engine light both came on. I don't hear any difference in the motor sound or in performance.

Any suggestions?????

nvbanker · May 2008

E-85 will do that to an engine not calibrated for flexible fuel. But if you run it out and put regular gas back in from now off, those lights should eventually go off on their own, although it may take a while.

carat414 · May 2008

Thank you. It's a mistake that I will never let happen again.

It really freaked me out driving on the freeway and suddenly having all the lights start glowing in my face.

scooter28 · May 2008

I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with 66,000 miles on it. I was having the same problem. I took the vehicle in to the dealer and found out that I had a bad EGR valve. Once it was replaced, the problem was fixed. I also read online that this can also be caused by running the car on too many short trips which doesn't allow the engine to fully warm up. This same website also indicated that if you don't change the oil at the routine scheduled times this can also occur. So try longer trips and making sure to change the oil as scheduled. If that doesn't work you may want to have your EGR valve checked out. Hope this helps.

piglet3 · May 2008

Looking to purchase 07 Pilot ex-l with 28k Certified to4/48k, powertrain is supposedly covered 7/100k. May not have enought $$ to buy extended warranty.
Does anyone know if there are "bad" repairs to watch out for in this car? ie; alternators, a/c, heaters, sunroof motors, power seat motors, etc that honda has problems with?
piglet10

jenniferspence · May 2008

My 2007 4wd Pilot has about 29K miles, and I'm wondering what we'll need to do at 30K. I can't find any list of recommended service in the manual, and I've read that you should just do things as the MM tells you to. However, I'll be on a roadtrip at roughly the time that I hit 30K, and worry about whether I should be proactive to get the work done. My dealer offers a 30K maintenance package, but charges almost $500, which seems like a bit of a rip-off. Can anyone tell me what I need to have done at 30K? Thanks!

parviz · June 2008

With your Pilot, the 30000 mile number does not really mean much. It all depends on your oil life, since the MM tells you about the other stuff at the same time that you reach the 15% oil life. So see where your oil life stands now and based on the length of the trip you will be taking, you should be able to tell if you can make the trip and be back before you get the"wrench" light! At that point I think you would be looking at the rear differential oil ($79 at my dealer), oil and filter ($35), rotate and balance tires ($35), air filter and the cabin filter ($99 at my dealer). Those are what I can think of, depending on the wear of your car, the dealer may suggest other things, if you or someone you know is handy, the filters can be changed by yourself and Costco charges $3.50 per tire for balance and rotate. so those items together may save you a little.

tsy · June 2008

I just had it done at the dealer for $430. They changed the oil, diff fluid, air cabin filter, rotated the tires, and the usual check everything. I found a local place that would do everything for about $350 so you can definitely save some money if you want. I generally perform all my service at the dealer until the warranty runs out so if anything happens I hopefully don't have to argue as much!

In this case it was a good thing since they found a leaking strut and changed it under warranty, which was nice.

tom

hackdogg · June 2008

Did you have the same thing? If so, what did they say it was? Thet said it would only do it between 3/4 & 1/2 tank. I heard the noise 20 miles into a full tank but the dealer tells me every Pilot makes the noise. This is my only vehical so it is a pain to keep bringing it back to the dealer when it seems like they only want to point to the service notice from 2002.

prelude1997 · June 2008

My 08 EX-L with 500 miles just developed a weird noise from under the car. A rattling noise when I'm accelerating. It sounds like loose metal, almost like the heat shield. I plan to get under the car (after the heat wave leaves DC) and poke around but thought I'd ask if anyone else had the same problem. Thanks!

pilotvic · June 2008

:mad: I have an '07 Pilot with a little over 6K miles on it (Yup is my wife's she's not a "driver") The problem is that whenever we drive up the driveway the rear hatch makes a "thump" sound. It also does it randomly over uneven terrain. I took it to the dealership and they adjusted the latch and greased up the rubber feet on the hatch but it still makes the noise. Any clues??
Thanx

kipk · June 2008

Three things in that area, besides the hatch, that could be making a noise.

Spare tire may not be tight.

Something moving around in the most rearward storage compartment that goes across and just inside where the rear hatch latches.

If you have a trailer hitch receiver and the "Tow Bar" is inserted, it can bump or rattle.

Could also be something like a "Strut" or shock absorber. But not likely.

rodut · June 2008

Hackdogg, I am not sure about mine. It looks silent now. About yours, drive it with the gas tank almost empty. If it's silent, then it means that the gas was sloshing, so just forget about it.

In my experience, the best car is the one never touched by mechanics (except for regular maintenance). Once idiots start replacing parts ... you never know what new noises you will get ...

uconnhuskiesfa · June 2008

I was in touch with the dealership and Honda of America about this. It is the fuel tank. The earlier years (mine is an '04) had a fuel tank with no baffles inside so what you are hearing is the fuel sloshing back and forth. Honda redesigned the tank in more recent model years so they dont do this. I tried to argue with them that this should be under a TSB if they new there was an issue and they created a redesign but they never did a TSB, the new fuel tank doesnt fit the older model years, so there is no fix.

boughtalemon · June 2008

Fuel tank in newer models isn't any better. My Pilot is a 2007 and, though I didn't have a sloshing sound, it was worse, it was a whistling sound. After trying to convince me that it's "normal" and after telling the dealer that I am not takng the car out of the dealership till they fix the problem, they first changed the fuel pump, didn't work and then they changed the fuel tank. We went on the lot and tried several cars, till we found one that didn't make the noise They just exchanged the tanks between the two cars. So, obvously, Honda has done nothing as far as the noisy tank is concerned. It's just a matter of luck, some make the noise, some don't.

rodut · June 2008

Probably when they redesigned the tank they made it different on purpose (to not fit the older models) so they wouldn't have to change all the tanks ! It has to be done on purpose ...
I tend to agree that they redesigned the tanks because my 2008 looks silent.
Cheers

needacar41 · June 2008

Hi!

I'm the proud owner of a 2008 EX-L 2WD purchased 3/08. It currently has 2,900 miles on it. I'm mostly city driving w/some hwy on weekends. I'm a careful driver, not a lead foot or jackrabbit starter & not a hard braker. Since this is my first Honda & first SUV, this newbie has a few questions...

1) Oil life is currently 50%. Manual states when to "truly" bring it in for oil change but was wondering what you all feel is the best time to do it at & is going to dealer best?

2) While wanting to switch from "D" to D2 or D3, find I cannot do it without coming to a complete stop & this is virtually impossible when I am on the freeway approaching a steep hill at 65 mph. Manual states to lift lever toward you but it did nothing so I chugged up a steep incline in the "D" mode. What am I missing or what am I doing wrong?

3) I'm not power hungry but why am I feeling this car doesn't have a whole lot of pick-up & go? I'm not towing anything, the a/c is off, nothing to prevent it from going....I just feel it should have more power as often I have my foot on the gas more than 1/2 way & it still lugs a bit (flat terrain, not on hills)....any ideas?

4) Rear passenger tire light (TPMS) went on. Filled it, wondering is it best to check all tires every how many miles or so to avoid that light? Manual made it sound very serious when the light went on & I was even afraid to drive it to the service station. (note: tire didn't look flat or low but I filled anyway). Just want to avoid other tire lights going on.

Thanks so much!! I really am enjoying this car but obviously still learning a lot. I greatly appreciate your input & feedback~

beer4704 · July 2008

Put it in "D" and leave it there. Unless you are caught in a snow storm or some other extreme condition, I would leave it alone. Highly paid engineers have designed the Honda motor/tranny combo to work 99% of the time in "D" alone. If you wanted a manual, you should have bought one. If you are afraid to drive a slightly low tire to a service station, then you shouldn't be shifting a tranny you can't repair or understand. To each his own........"C'est la vie" :surprise:

needacar41 · July 2008

Thanks for the input. I appreciate your time.

1) Regarding leaving it in "D," I guess it's ok if it lugs up a hill, or I drop down to 40 mph & I start smelling funny stuff from the engine? That's what it did last time & I just thought not shifting it to at least D3 was hurting it in some way....Somehow it didn't feel right & still doesn't.

2) I am not afraid to drive a low tire to a service station. When I read the 2008 Honda Pilot manual regarding this issue, it sounded as if the tire was going to burst then & there if I was to drive it any further after the TPMS light went on. When you're not used to a vehicle yet and you read something like that, you're in ultra caution mode, I suppose. (Especially being a female out at 11:30pm at night searching for a gas station.).

Again, this is my first SUV (& first Honda) & I know I'll have to learn lots more as I go along. I simply wanted to ask these questions as I know the majority of the people on these boards are obviously more experienced than I.

Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles