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Comments
It's been a few years since I last hang around here. We've been pretty happy with our 05 S model which now has 38K miles. A couple weeks ago the "Service Engine Soon" light came on (steady and not blinking). Accroding to the manual it's the fuel filter cap eigher loose or missing. I didn't do anything and the light went away briefly for a day or so. But now it's back on. Does anyone know where the fuel filter cap is and how easy it is to tighen it myself? I'd appreciate it if someone who experienced this can share.
I should also mention that I overfilled the engine oil by ~1/5 qt last time I changed it. By the time the light came on, the van had run for 8K miles and 10 months. I use Mobile 1 synthetic oil.
Good luck...
PS...Still looking for a do it youself cure for the cranky power side door. Anyone...anyone...Bueller...anyone?
Thanks,
Well, even cheaper until you find it that it may be more than a loose gas cap. :sick: Then you find a local garage. Check out Dealer Ratings and Reviews if you need a mechanic.
(sorry, Calvin, no idea on your door issue).
Steve, visiting host
You mean the store would drag out their machine, hook it up to our van and get the error code for free? Sweet!
Even when you know the code, you may find that it doesn't quite tell you what part to replace. That's when your mechanic would come in.
My last check engine light on my '99 Quest was for a knock sensor ($$$), but I've had bad O2 sensors throw the light on other cars. In both cases, the code was accurate, like it was in Calvin's case. But you may feel better paying for a diagnosis from a shop before throwing parts at it.
Or come back here and report what the codes are and let the other owners make some more suggestions.
The small of an overfill on oil should not cause any issues. In the manual, it tells you as a first check to check the fuel cap (gas cap). If that is not on tight, it can cause the "check engine" light to come on.
Check an auto parts store to see if they will read it for free.
Another general question:How much time do i have to fix a bad O2 sensor? I don't want to cause damage wasting too much time shopping around.
I don't think it was too involved but who knows.
My point in posting this was it could be anything and it could be nothing with the "check engine" light. The key is to find out what it is the code. then you can go from there.
I know the manual says to have it checked out. I wanted to find out what are some potential issues before taking it to the dealer.
My friend had a 2000 nissan sentra sedan...and he had the error codes,,,the dealer said that O2 sensors and catalytic converters had to be replaced.He had them replaced by a local garage with aftermarket ones and it totally messed up his car making it non-drivable.
The thing with these aftermarket sensors are that,,they are not the exact fit,,,so,,they have to be customized to fit properly and then these mess up the onboard computer and damage your car.
So,,buyer beware,,,please be aware of these dangers before going aftermarket.
I got the engine error code "P0420 two way catalyst bank 1". This sounds like the catalytic converter or O2 sensor? Does the Quest have two converters? Any suggestions on how I can fix it myself? Thanks!
Also, is this repair urgent? The van drives great.
And get it done soon.It can damage the emission system.
The catalytic converter passed the dealership's test. They reset the ECM per Nissan's instruction on this code. I'm picking up the van now. If the light comes back on, they'll replace the cats.
We've just learned to live with them...sometimes it's the quietest tomb like ride...other times it's like a bunch of bolts in a coffee can...odd rattling from within the sliding doors (yes junk removed )
I am still looking for help on how to keep the power door closing consistently without taking it to the dealer for a $100 "adjustment & cleaning" that will last two weeks or less :confuse: . Anyone have experience with other brands of minivans & power doors?
Calvin
They found a few items needing replacement: brake pads and engine fan belt. Can anyone recommend any type of brake pads that you particularly like?Also, how easy is it to replace the engine fan belt myself?
Thanks.
I have 2005 Nissan Quest, 3.5S, 95K km, extended warranty, almost no problems.
Currently we found it has cracked resonator(s).
Original symptom - humming or vibration inside the car, exactly at 2000 RPM, seems to be coming from exhaust because we hear it only when accelerator is pressed. It was also reported by other owners here:
http://questdriver.com/node/163
there is a tsb 05021 suggesting loose heat shield - so when I went to dealer, all they did was cut off cracked bracket and remove the heat shield, and charge me $50 for it.
When I picked up my car, I was almost happy that it was only $50 fix, but after driving it 50 meters I could still hear it, so I went back. Unsuprised service manager tells me that in this situation it must be the crack in the resonator pipe - $700 and of course, not covered by our extended bumper-to-bumper warranty.
Based on what I have read here and at other forums it seems that Nissan is pretty bad when it comes to the quality of its exhaust system - everything from manifold, to catalytic converter, brackets, heat shield to premature corrosion and anything else.
It is our 1st Nissan and possibly last one - cost us $40K. I'd rather buy GM or Chrysler for $15K and spend $15K on repairs and keep extra $10K for myself.
If anyone experiences similar problems, DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT agree to get a patch repair kit, since these are reported to last weeks-6 months only.
Problems with the exhaust system quality have been like this for a number of years. There are tons of postings from Pathfinder owners (same engine as Quest) with these complaints.
http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/nissan/TTG7L43U0AKTKACBF/p8
Also, my friend has fixed his 2003 Pathfinder resonator by welding it, it has lasted perfectly now for 4 years.
What I find unacceptable is fact that crack in the resonator is causing leak of Carbon Monoxide, which in the emergency situation e.g. flat tire or stuck in the traffic would cause Carbon Monoxide poisoning of occcupants inside the Nissan Quest - and these should be better handled by Nissan as a corporation rather than settling with Pathfinder owners. What about us - Nissan Quest owners.
I would keep pushing. If they don't cover it, I would find an independent shop to do the work. You'll at least save money on the labor and quite honestly an aftermarket part can't perform much worst than this OEM part. And it will be cheaper.
Good luck.
Any ideas on this is greatly appreciated.
I am only a quasi mechanic, so hopefully somone else chimes in.
Good luck,
Calvin
I purchased a used 04 Nissan Quest 1 month back with 58k miles.
Since u bought it new,, could you list all the problems you have had and what repairs were done for that?Did you buy an extended warranty?
Problems Like-- Rattles and squeaks,,brakes,,rotor warping,,steering wheel shake,,power door problems--These were the most common problems reported.
Did u have any of these and others??If yes,, how and where was it repaired??Did corporate Nissan USA help you or gave u any info??
Would really appreciate the info..Thanks.. :shades:
Then of course my catalytic converters, first replacement at 18K miles (also engine replaced at that time since my Service Engine Soon light never came on, and by the time the car died the engine had been destroyed by the catalytic converter failure), and then this second replacement at 94K.
I have only ever had the car serviced by the dealer and have had most of the oil changes done there, too.
Just as another example of how jinxed my particular car is, once I decided to get it detailed at the dealer, you know, trying to make nice with the car and all. The guy backing it into the car wash area ran into a wall and practically knocked off the back bumper. They had to keep my car for two more days while they sent it down the street to a body shop.
1.Regarding the squeaks,rattles did the dealer fix the issue??I had mine taken to the dealer as it was only 58k and they used the Rattle TSB to fix it.So now it is ok.But does the problem come back?
2.There is a lot of air and windnoise coming from the driver`s door especially on highways-- like a leak or glass window vibrating.Did u have this??
3.Steering wheel shake-- I took it to dealer,,he replaced brake pads and rotor under warranty[[ good dealer]]--so now no shake..But does it eventually come back?
4.Also the transmission slips occasionally.I just had an auto trans. flush.Now ,it kind of jerks occasionally on the highway-- like sudden stop and go type of jerk??Did u have this??Is this the cat.converter problem??
Thanks once again.
1. In my case, the TSB fix seemed to mostly fix it. The car is big, and the seats rattle around a bit, but not to the point of distraction or complete irritation when I'm driving.
2. I'm in constant worry that my drivers side door is going to open when I"m driving down the freeway. I can physically see it rattling, but when I look in my rearview side mirror, it seems to be perfectly aligned with the back sliding door. But my door and window shake something awful sometimes. I live with it. It's almost loose like a cabinet door gets loose. I think I just need to tighten up the screws.
3. It's the brakes. They need to be "done" often. When the shake comes back, time for a brake check. They'll tell you it's because the van is heavy. I think it's because the van is poorly designed and manufactured.
4. I have had the "slip" or mine is more of a "surge" where the rpm suddenly jumps and settles back down almost immediately. Mine occurs mostly when I'm coming off a freeway, slowing down through an offramp curve, and then when I go to accelerate back onto the road. This, in my case, is NOT an indication of the converter problem. My first indicators of a converter problem were noise - pinging, etc. Then, ultimately, the Service Engine Soon light comes on, or of course, the van simply stops going.
And, I must say, these problems seem to come in batches. Big problems the first year, nothing for five years, big problems now. During the five years in between, I have loved this van.
Sorry to hear about your problems. I'm in San Diego too. I just had the catalytic converter replaced under warranty. The part if I recall correctly cost about $700 at the dealership (Mossy), definitely not $1689. Did you mean that to be for both parts and labor?
How is your Nissan Quest going??I bought a used 04 quest with 58k miles.
1.The dealer replaced brakes,rotors and rattles under warranty..Not entirely rattlefree now,,but much better.
2.Very slight steering wheel shake--dealer said that`s the max he can do and it will be present.
3.How often did u replace brakes/rotors and tires?
Please list all problems u experienced and their fixes or solutions and other helpful info on the Quest.
Appreciate it,,,thanks..
as for the Yoko's , I find them quite a bit harsher then the Goodyears...kinda make you cringe over the bumps and potholes of upsatate NY . They do handle better though they have an odd tendency to carry the van into a curve rather then letting it roll out like most other cars I am used to. On an onramp to a highway at speed you can take your hands right off the wheel and the van tracks right around the turn, it will even keep going if you dont roll out....very odd but not all that bad...I kinda like it.
WE are still battling the passenger door rattle but the last trip to the dealer was probably the finale for that as they had no more things to try and even stuffed a piece of plastic tubing in the door weatherstripping to push on the door some...they said all the adjustment was out of the latch...now something my wife just started complaing about may have signifigance here...she says she hears a thump thump from the back when going over rough roads...sounds to a freind she had with her as a bad strut. we are 500 mi shy of the warrenty going out so I will have to take a drive and see what I can hear but I tought I would ask if anyone else has had strut problems at 35K.
We just had all 4 brake pads replaced at 38K miles (4 years) at Pepboys for $300 out the door, ceramic on front semi metallic on back. The old ones maybe had 10% life left? The rotors were in very good condition. We'll need to replace the OEM tires too soon. Due to my neglegence, the tires were not rotated untill maybe 15K miles, which caused the two front tires to wear cinsiderably more than the rear two. To delay the replacement, we had the two front ones put on the back a year ago. But I'm thinking it's finally time. We'll most likely replace them with Michelins at Costco this summer.
We do hear some slight rattles. But I'm not sure if it's the van itself that rattles or our two car seats and one booster.
Are the aftermarket brake pads/rotors better than the original OEM nissan parts??Do they improve performance or are they just less expensive than the Nissan pads? Did they stop the steering wheel shake?
Is there any specific aftermarket brake pad u suggest?
And regarding the tires-- the Yokohoma Avid Touring TRZ are supposed to be the best for the Quest.It`s been posted a lot in the forums before.
I still have OEM tires on my 04 quest now at 60k.They have decent tread left,,about 10k .So after that it`s Yoko for me.
I just had the auto tranny flush,coolant flush and in cabin filter replacement for the 60k service.I use 5w30 full synthetic oil.
Did u get any other services done- like power steering and brake flushes?
Thanks.
And regarding the tires-- the Yokohoma Avid Touring TRZ are supposed to be the best for the Quest.It`s been posted a lot in the forums before.
There are other options available in the 225/65 - 16" size now. I put on Michelin Primacy's back in December when Sears was having a special. The price was the same as Yoko Avid TRZ.
My rear brakes are due to have the rotors and pads replaced. They were replaced at 38k miles. Now at 72k. In general, minivans are tough on brakes esp. if you do a lot of city driving (stop and go). In-laws had to replace their Grand Caravan brakes at 15k miles (2 years of driving). Not sure if aftermarket brakes are better than OEM. I would go with the brand your mechanic feels comfortable with.
Other than changing the oil with Mobile 1 5W30 (myself), we haven't done any other service.
The TRZ's are far superior to the OEM's...everything, feel-comfort-noise-wet traction. If I would have known the TRZ's were so much better I would have scrapped the OEM's years earlier...OEM's really started to show age after a year or so. Plus they were dangerous in the rain.
But the Yokos had gotten a lot om support.
2.Regarding the brake pads-- are even the Front OEM pads metallic or just the rear ones?And are the rear pepboys pads working out much better?There is no pepboys in my area,,so I have to use some other aftermarket pad.Do u have any suggestion?Or do I stick to OEM pads?
I thought for such a big van - the fronts would be ceramic.I dont think semimetallic is enough for a huge van.So do u suggest ceramics for the fronts?Do u have any recommendation?
There was a lot of discussion previously about the Hawk brake pads and Frozen rotors.Are they better?