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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • schnidlyschnidly Member Posts: 1
    Dear anikeman,

    I too just had my check engine soon light come on, I went to autozone and they checked the code and it was an emission code and they indicated the gas cap might be defective or not on right. They told me to drive it for a couple days to build up pressure in the tank and the light should go out. They also said that there might be a valve on the charcoal canister on one of the vacuum lines that might be defective. Have you found anything out yet? Please let me know what you discover. I cant find the charcoal canister on my 2001 Silverado, maybe you know.

    Thanks,

    please email me directly at dschmid@wi.rr.com
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    A quick and easy try to reset the SES light because
    of a loose gas cap issue would be to un-hook the
    battery for a few minutes.

    That will USUALLY reset the SES light.........

    I have my dads s-10 stored here for the winter and
    took it for a spin the other day. The gas jockey
    forgot to fully seat the cap so I have a SES light.
    I just whipped out my handheld scanner and reset the
    light..............
  • undergrindundergrind Member Posts: 1
    hello , i like to know where & wat can i put in my truck for nice sound or eventualy plans to make something nice
    thx
  • firesourcefiresource Member Posts: 17
    I have an '05 1/2 ton Crew Cab Silverado. At about 8000 miles, I began to hear a rattle / clunk in the front driver side area on uneven pavement.

    1. 1st service appt ---- replaced driver side shock >> no change.
    2. 2nd service appt ---- replaced intermediate steering shaft >>> no change
    3. 3rd service appt ---- replaced front end body mounts >>> no change

    I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like it has to do with compression and/or flexing of the front end when you either go over a bump, or across uneven pavement. Dealer is stumped. They don't have any other ideas --- and are unsure what to do.

    Does anyone have any other ideas? I've lived w/this for 7,000 miles now and frankly, it's very discouraging. I can't be the only one experiencing this type of problem.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • johanjohan Member Posts: 6
    Still have a problem with head lights going off when i turn them on. DRL works high beams work and all tail lights running lights etc work.If any one knows anything please let me know.Thanks.
  • warmanwarman Member Posts: 3
    2000 silverado, 88,000 mi 5.3L, after driving and sitting for a day or two a wet spot will appear under engine. Looks like it tracks down the left side of the block from up above. Doesn't seem to be the water pump. Anyone else see this?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    If indeed it is coolant you are seeing then there aren't that many possiblities for leaks in the area described. Either water pump, thermostat housing, or a leak from one of the hose connections. Given the mileage of the vehicle I would suspect the water pump. A pump can begin a slow leak like this and be very hard to detect until it really begins to pour. Check all your hose connections in that area and make sure they are tight. Shop can put leak detector in the cooling system and locate the source of the leak for you.
  • jerrybluizjerrybluiz Member Posts: 1
    Recently I had left my, 95, 350, 2 wheel drive 1500 sit for 2 weeks. When I tried to start the engine, it took awhile to get it going. After it started it would stall. I checked the OBD and the trouble-code came up #33(MAP). Changed the MAP sensor and the fuel filter. The engine now starts on the first or second try but soon dies or if I keep the tapping the accelerator the engine back fires like it is firering out of sequence. If I get the truck to move, I can't accelerate over 20mph and it will stall when I apply brakes/stop. Disconnected the Neg cable in hopes of resetting the computer but still runs the same and no codes come up on computer. Here is my list of thoughts, see if I am headed in the right direction?
    1, vacuum lines
    2, rotor check and or replacement
    3, spark plug check and or replacement
    4, removal and replace or clean fuel injectors (last on my list)
    Any help would be appreciated
  • jim96jim96 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chev 1500 4x4. The tow/haul button stopped working about 3 months ago, I would push the button and nothing would happen, no big deal, I don't haul much... until last week the tow/haul light came on my dash, I can't get it to shut off. The truck is shifting in the tow/haul mode. Any suggestions?
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Also check for the "cast hole/weep hole"
    in the bottom of the pump. Its sorta hidden
    and on the bottom under the pullies and hard
    to spot..............
  • mblack3mblack3 Member Posts: 10
    1992 silverado 350 5 speed sometimes you go to crank it and the ignition wont do anything everything else works. you can roll it off to get it running and immediately turn it off and it will crank right back up. any solutions
  • minesarottyminesarotty Member Posts: 3
    Could you please tell me what you did to combat the popcorn noise caused by the bug shield? Mine only does it 60 mph and over. Also do you know how to reprogram the engine oil life in the computer? My husband changed the oil but the truck doesn't seem to know it. I reprogrammed the keyless entry and lost the instructions to reprogram the engine oil life.

    Thanks for any help.
  • ridinhigh90ridinhigh90 Member Posts: 2
    IT could be the vacum lines ...or try and see if ur Catalytic Converter...had that same problem in my car and that is what it was ...
    all i can think of
  • renegademagerenegademage Member Posts: 2
    Hello I am new to the forum, however I caught the answer to your question when I was reading the archives, somewhere around post 150-200 I think. From what I saw the bug shield changes the aerodynamics of the front of the truck and causes the windshield gasket to slap the the glass. the suggested fixes are simple and cheap. I also have this problem, but I am going to wait for warmer weather to make the fix. The two suggestions are 1.) put double sided tape under the edge of the gasket. 2.) use RTV or a Silicon caulk under the gasket.
    I am going to use the RTV/Silicon. I have found that sealing windshield gaskets with a tube of Silicon sealent in a Caulking gun to be very easy and effective. I am not sure if I know the proper answer to your second question, But If you are asking how to reset the " change oil light in the message center after an oil change it is simple. turn the key to on (not started) then step the gas pedal to the floor three times rapidly. turn the key off and then start the truck. I had to do it twice, so if doesn't work the first time try again.

    Good Luck :-)
    Jeff
  • renegademagerenegademage Member Posts: 2
    Hi All, I bought my 02 Silverado used last year and I feel that it is the greatest truck ever built I have a few issues, but all in all It is an Awesome truck! I have to give a plug for the place I got my stainless nerf bars from they are on Ebay grilles4u.com $175 with shipping for very nice very heavy stainless nerf bars for extended cab Silverado, Pepboys can't touch that! They are no name but they are very well made and no crap they really did mount in about 45 mins per side no drilling they mounted right to the cab mount bolts and there is NO flex in them. I jump on them and the whole truck moves with the bars.
    OK There's my plug for a great deal.

    I have a couple of questions that I feel are pretty simple , The first I should be able to answer myself, But I do not have the books. Since I bought it used I guess the boys in the detail shop at the dealership threw them away.
    1.) I am told that a block heater is standard on the 5.3 vortec, Where do I find the cord to plug it in? I live in northish Illinois and we have already had a few nights below 0 F and it would be nice to plug that heater in.

    My second questions pertains to my fathers 05 Silverado. The truck also has the 5.3 Vortec, however he didn't realize at the time he bought it that it didn't have cruise control. this is something he regrets as he loves to use cruise when he travels. I have looked into what it would take to "add it on" I was very surprised to find an add on ebay for the turn signal handle for his truck that stated that this one part was all you need if you have a factory V-8 It states that all the other components are already there and ready!! Can anyone confirm or deny this? The guy I found on ebay has sold many of them and also claims to install them for a local dealer at $400.00 per!
    Thanks in advance for your input here.

    Jeff
    73 K-10 350 .030 stroked ported Holly 1150 hooker locker front Posi rear Screaming for mud machine!
    02 Siverado Ext. Cab pretty as an 18 year old girlfriend!

    ;)
  • samscheffersamscheffer Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I have a little problem with large amounts of fuel getting into the engine crankcase on my '94 Chevy K1500 5.7L. I rebuilt the throttle body and regulator and had the injectors cleaned and tested. They seemed to be ok. But the problem persists. Any ideas where the fuel could be getting into the crankcase?
  • samscheffersamscheffer Member Posts: 2
    BTW, it has 138K miles on the engine.
  • warmanwarman Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply. However, it doesn't appear that the leak is anywhere near the pump. Looks like(shudder)it might be the head gasket or a freeze plug. Its down behind the alternator. Anyway can't mess with it myself and gonna take it to a dealer. Gotta get ready for a long road trip and don't want to chance it.
  • rdriningrdrining Member Posts: 1
    I noticed a month or so ago that I had a rattling sound at low speeds (20-30 or so) that only happened when under load-the harder you stomped on the gas the louder/longer it would go, then let go of the gas it would stop. Kind of thinking this was possibly U-joints, but could be something with the exhaust/cat converter? Or possibly even something with the transmission?

    Now yesterday I am driving down the highway on my way to work, and my RPM's jump to 3500 (normally runs just over 2000 with cruise set at 75mph) check engine light started flashing, then speed dropped back to 50mph, I tried down shifting thinking maybe I lost a gear, and it didn't do anything... so I managed to struggle to work going 50-55, it wouldn't go any faster than that... got to work and go to back in to a parking spot and truck stalled on me, and all the electrical went off, then slowly came back on but not as bright as normal, was able to start the truck again but whenever I put into gear it would stall, left it sit at work overnight, then today start it up and it runs, can drive it but stomp on the gas and it chugs along like its trying to go but can't...doesn't pickup speed.

    Wondering if anyone has any ideas where to start? So far I've been told its the cat converter is plugged so replace that and it will be fine, next person says its something wrong with the ECU, replace it and I'll be good, had a third say simply plugs/wires need to be replace-which makes no sense to me at all since it still runs/idles... and a fourth person tells me I've lost a gear in the transmission... (none of which have been verified to know what they are talking about) so any ideas? Hate to start throwing money at it right away without being fairly certain whats wrong with it...
  • steve80steve80 Member Posts: 4
    The cruise is a quick plun in. Had one put on my 2006 5.3.
    Works great.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to reply. Jeff is right. It's the windshield gasket making the popcorn noise. I also haven't fixed mine yet, for pretty much the same reason Jeff states. I did talk to my dealership about it, but they wanted me to schedule a dropoff so that my truck could be sent out to a windshield repair shop. I was told that if it has anything to do with the windows this is their normal procedure (despite them being aware of the TSB on this specific problem). The service rep also told me that they've handled this same problem this way before. Thing is, I figure I'll be out maybe 30 minutes doing it myself versus probably half the day or more if I have to drop it off then wait for the dealership to get it back. So I'll just do it myself using double sided body molding tape.

    For the Oil Change reset follow Jeff's instructions if you don't have steering wheel controls. If you do have steering wheel controls there's a menu option that displays the oil life % in the odometer area. Once you've brought it up you can just hold the reset button for a few seconds and it will reset to 100%. I believe the button to change the display to the oil life is the bottom left button on the steering wheel (hit repeatedly til Oil Life % shows). The reset button has the arrow symbol that looks like the one on the Enter / Return key of most computer keyboards.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I've never seen anything showing the engine block heater as standard with any given engine. My 2004 5.3 definitely doesn't have one. It's more likely a regional thing related to where the truck was originally sold when new.
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    jhollar,
    I wish you the best of luck, I too had high hopes when I first bought my new 2001 Silverado ext-cab Z-71 back in Dec 2000.

    As of 1/25/06 I've got 47,300 miles on it.

    Problems so far have been 10 sec of cold start engine ticking (no fix), windshield outside trim rattle (sealed it with doublesided tape), intermediate steering shaft rattles (replaced twice), driveline clunk (yoke replaced), driver's door electric window noises (motor replaced), stuck in 4wd-Hi (4wd module replaced).

    It's sad to say, but GM quality is very questionable these days (even in my Indiana made Silverado). And unless GM starts to invest in better engineering, testing and quality control processes, I doubt I'll ever by another GM product again.

    GM will make back the money from their current price cut program when us owners have to shell out the $$$ for parts and repair costs when the warranty runs out.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    All 1500 series crew cab trucks are made in Canada. I talked to a GM dealer and they said that the best built GM products come from Canada, then from US, and the worst ones from Mexico. what do you think? Avalanches and Suburbans are made in Mexico. Most pickups are made in the USA. :confuse:
  • holleycopholleycop Member Posts: 1
    I noticed that my passenger side rear wheel on my '02 Z71 was at negative camber (bottom sticks out more than top) when compared to the other rear wheel. I took both wheels off and pulled outward on the lug bolts and noticed that there was a degree of play in the passenger side one as opposed to the driver's side one, which there was not. Has anyone else had this problem or know what could possibly be the cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • boredhunterboredhunter Member Posts: 1
    need a little help from anyone that might know about the abs system of my 2000 chevy silverado 4/4 1500. gripe: abs warning light comes on as soon as the front tires turn, thought it might be the hub bearing as that is what fixed it last time. this time bearing feels good and both sensors read 1000 ohm, which is good. have also noticed heavy wear on rear brakes and very little on fronts could it be related? any help would be of huge assistance.
    thanks
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    The GM Oshawah (spl) Ontario Plant(s)have won
    many quality awards from both GM itself and
    JD Power and Company (and a few other ratings
    sites also).
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I've heard the same thing about the trucks (Canadian built being better). I don't know how true it is, but my Canadian-built Z-71 has had few problems. I don't categorize the windshield noise as a "defect" or "problem" per se, since it only occurred because of the bug deflector I installed.
  • wingsh00terwingsh00ter Member Posts: 9
    Turn ignition to acc (without starting the truck) step on gas pedal 6 times within 10 secs. I think.
  • fiddynutsfiddynuts Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, i have a question about my 2001 chevy silverado, when i drive on the freeway and i do roughly 60-70 mph and then i let off the accelerator and start to coast there is a lound rattling kind of winding down sound coming from under the truck. But then when i step on the gas it stops then i coast and it does it again. also when i am at a stop and i take off right oround 10-20 mph the whole truck jitters then stops like right aroun 2nd gearish does anyone know if these are related to one another. if they arent what can they be. i think the jittering is the u joints, but the rattleing on the freeway sound kind of like exuhast. One more thing, the truck is fully bagged with a 3 link rear end could this cause it?
  • lionslions Member Posts: 20
    Well I hope you have better luck. My truck 2002 ext cab has a few problems like engine knock,brakes that won't stop you,my truck will pull to the right all the time, lights that burn out every year no reason,my headlight will come on when it wants to,heated mirrors that brake every year I have had it GM fix every year,creaks and groans,driveline clunks do i need to say any more this truck was built in Canada ? Man if it was built in Mexico It would have many more problems, And GM tells me most of these problems are not problem and are NORMAL , This why GM is in Big Trouble, they need to stop sending work down to Mexico for cheap labor, quality is suffering, many Americans are tired of the same old answers they all do that, Watch out GM Toyota new truck is coming , maybe GM will wake up and take care of there customers and not there stock holders pockets . Good Luck on your new truck, my 1988 was like a rock my 2002 is like a lemon.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Lions...............Not all is "rosy" in importland
    either !

    Take a trip over to tundrasolutions.com or titantalk.com
    even ridgelineownersclub.com not to mention the problem
    boards here at Edmunds.

    LOTS of problems over there too!

    If only EVERY vehicle could be perfect...........
  • lionslions Member Posts: 20
    I totaly agree with you but with one major difference In 1988 when i took my Chevy truck in to the dealer they tried to find a solution to the problem all of my dealer ssy yep we seen that they all do it. Is this fair I paid over 24,000 for a truck that they won't even try to find the problem. I took my wifes honda in with a problem and they bend over backwards to help me even if they don't know they call the factory and get help right then and there. With the new titan and ridgeline these are brand new truck there first years in production but there learning. Am not saying not to buy American cars and truck am saying the competition is winnig the battle, GM has been making quality trucks longer than Nissan,Honda has i expect them to have problem. Hondas, nissian,toyota are bulit here in the USA also. Why are so many of our jobs going to Mexico cheap labor. I have been over all the forms i just hate to see our GM company sink so low, am also a stock holder,They need to make a better product and work to fix the problems not just take a blind eye to the problems and say They all do that. Not all vechicle are perfect but make an honest attempt to find the problem.
  • bowtielanterbowtielanter Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with mine not too long ago. I would guess it's your Crank Sensor, that's what mine was ne way they have a rep for going out. I replaced mine and it fixed the problem. Should be about 70 bucks at your local autoparts store.

    Hope this helps
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    "GM has been making quality trucks longer than Nissan,Honda has i expect them to have problem. Hondas, nissian,toyota are bulit here in the USA also. Why are so many of our jobs going to Mexico cheap labor."

    Ever heard of the UAW?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I think you may have a bad connection in a ground wire.

    I had similar issue with a Pontiac - I just about went nuts trying to figure it out - even to the point of buying some wire and running directly from the battery so i could test each light bulb - I finally checked the ground and it had a little bit of rust around the connection. cleaned it off and all my problems were solved.

    If you look at the wires that run to/between your tail light housings you should see a lone green one that runs directly to the frame - make sure it is a good connection.
  • texsuntexsun Member Posts: 23
    Well, I don't have a Silverado, own a '02 Sierra 1500HD. Specs are in the Meet the Members post. 84,000 miles and still loving it. My brother has an '02 1500HD 'Rado with over 130,000 - no problems either.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I worked my way through school (in a union company) - but since it was a right to work state I was not required to join the union - so I did not. The union went on strike - the plant closed - all 500 jobs were lost (including mine)- the offer from the company was $.35 per hour short of the union demand. $.35 cents - what a bunch of IDIOTS.

    The company still operates - but moved all its manufacturing jobs out of the country. The work rules were also a complete JOKE - you needed to call in an electrician if you wanted to plug in a desk lamp.

    So even though I think unions are a complete waste - I can't blame GM's (or Ford's) problems on the UAW. It was management's responsibility to determine what the company could afford - and say NO - it was managements responsibility to stand up to the union and even take a strike - if they had to. This is a management failure.

    The reason management did not do this is obvious - they would rather keep things going so they can get their bonus - they did not care if in 10 or 15 or 20 years the company would be completely screwed because by then they would be someplace else - and they would have the millions of dollars that they earned MAKING BAD DECISIONS.
  • minesarottyminesarotty Member Posts: 3
    Hey thanks a lot will have my husband try it, did yours do it on the entire windsheild? Mine seems just to be on the passenger side.

    Thanks again.
  • peachesejspeachesejs Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone heard about problems with the 4WD transfer case having no oil in it but no leaks??? We took our vehicle in and the extended warranty won't cover this since they are stating there was no oil/lubricant in the transfer case. There are no leaks either so where did the oil go??? Any ideas out there and how to fight this one?? Thanks.
  • kmiller44kmiller44 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 2003 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab. All the power accessories in the passenger front door are not working....power door lock, power window & the power mirror. They will not work from either controls, drivers door controls or the passenger door controls. The keyless entry will lock/unlock the other 3 doors. Any ideas out there??????? It acts like something came unplugged or blew a fuse to that door only.
    Thanks,
    Mark
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Having worked in the past in auto body repair that almost sounds more like a connection in the door itself as opposed to a fuse. Try taking the trim panel off the door and see if all the connectors are connected. May not be the problem but its a start.
  • jweitzjweitz Member Posts: 1
    I have an '05 GMC Sierra 1500 with the same trouble. On my way to work th other day I looked down and I was going 115 MPH. Then when I shut the truck off it read 60. I took it to the dealer and they "reset" it and it lasted about 18 hours and the same trouble re-occured. The sad part is it happened 100 miles out of warranty, and they want to CHARGE me for the repair. Seems the problem is bigger than they are admitting. It is REALLY easy to change though. I have been looking for a replacement on the internet. I found some for $299.00. I'll be darned if I am going to give them the money for it when I can take care of the problem myself.
  • grjgrj Member Posts: 1
    I have almost the same problem with my 1997 chevy truck.
    DRL works, park lights work but when I turn on the headlights they go off. I've been using DRL and then turning on the park lights to drive at night but I don't have high beams. Have you had any luck in figuring your problem out?

    Thanks
  • whalertimwhalertim Member Posts: 1
    Guys/Gals,
    I am getting alot of vibration in the steering colum of my 2000 1500 pickup. It is really harsh when I go across train tracks, or other small bumps. You can actually feel every bump in the steering wheel. Is this the steering colum or the shocks?
    Tim
  • pithedpithed Member Posts: 1
    You're lucky to get 54,0000 miles on duramax 6 speed. My first one went at 8,000, second at 18 fourth at 000, third at 30000,
    fourth at 55000, and we never pull more than 20000 lbs with this one ton. GM just keeps putting clutches and slave cylinders in at their own expense. This truck is going down the road soon,but to the junk yard as soon as it is off warranty. Dont grt me wrong just yet,I have logged over 5000,0000 miles on older GM cluthes in 5 tons and never had this problem. Too bad we couldn't pu 1960's clutches in them.
  • wrufitwrufit Member Posts: 2
    My truck is a 2000 Silverado 6.0 gas, EXT Cab, 4x4, 2500 with an auto trans. It has 48,000 miles on it. When I start it up cold it starts instantly. After it's been run a while and I shut it off and let it sit for a couple hours it starts up very slow. It cranks real good for a couple seconds and then starts to fire and it idles very slowly for a couple more seconds. The idle slowly increases until it's idling normally. Sometime it'll quit while it's trying to idle. But, so far it always starts. If I start it shortly after turning it off it starts right up. It's only after it's been warmed up good and let sit for a while. Let it sit overnight and it'll start right up again.
    I've been told it's fuel pressure and others tell me a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator would make it run bad, too, but it runs great.
    It has a new air cleaner, new spark plugs and a new fuel filter. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Astro.........I am currently in Philly/NJ so I don't have the web addy handy. Will send it to ya Tuesday when I get home..........

    It may or may NOT work for ya depending on which Delco unit you have. You can give it a shot.............

    If it don't work its off to the dealer and it must be hooked up to the Tech 2 machine at about $100 a pop!
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    WR.......There is a simple check on the FPR to see if its leaking internally and flooding the motor.

    Find the FPR...Pull off the rubber nipple at FPR and check and see if its WET with fuel (after running engine and shutting off). DO NOT attempt on running engine !!!!!
    If its wet with fuel ........Its bad!

    Or check one of the GM truck web sites for proper procedure.
  • minesarottyminesarotty Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info, will probably wait till warmer weather also. It is nice to have some where to find out about the little things that when a woman goes with her truck to the dealership they roll their eyes and just give her lip service and no fix to the problem.

    Do you or any one else have a thunking noise in the rear tires area when you turn the truck or go over some rough areas? I don't know if it is a shock issue or maybe u-joints.

    Thanks again for your help. Will put it to good use.
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