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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I too just had my check engine soon light come on, I went to autozone and they checked the code and it was an emission code and they indicated the gas cap might be defective or not on right. They told me to drive it for a couple days to build up pressure in the tank and the light should go out. They also said that there might be a valve on the charcoal canister on one of the vacuum lines that might be defective. Have you found anything out yet? Please let me know what you discover. I cant find the charcoal canister on my 2001 Silverado, maybe you know.
Thanks,
please email me directly at dschmid@wi.rr.com
of a loose gas cap issue would be to un-hook the
battery for a few minutes.
That will USUALLY reset the SES light.........
I have my dads s-10 stored here for the winter and
took it for a spin the other day. The gas jockey
forgot to fully seat the cap so I have a SES light.
I just whipped out my handheld scanner and reset the
light..............
thx
1. 1st service appt ---- replaced driver side shock >> no change.
2. 2nd service appt ---- replaced intermediate steering shaft >>> no change
3. 3rd service appt ---- replaced front end body mounts >>> no change
I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like it has to do with compression and/or flexing of the front end when you either go over a bump, or across uneven pavement. Dealer is stumped. They don't have any other ideas --- and are unsure what to do.
Does anyone have any other ideas? I've lived w/this for 7,000 miles now and frankly, it's very discouraging. I can't be the only one experiencing this type of problem.
Thanks in advance for any help.
1, vacuum lines
2, rotor check and or replacement
3, spark plug check and or replacement
4, removal and replace or clean fuel injectors (last on my list)
Any help would be appreciated
in the bottom of the pump. Its sorta hidden
and on the bottom under the pullies and hard
to spot..............
Thanks for any help.
all i can think of
I am going to use the RTV/Silicon. I have found that sealing windshield gaskets with a tube of Silicon sealent in a Caulking gun to be very easy and effective. I am not sure if I know the proper answer to your second question, But If you are asking how to reset the " change oil light in the message center after an oil change it is simple. turn the key to on (not started) then step the gas pedal to the floor three times rapidly. turn the key off and then start the truck. I had to do it twice, so if doesn't work the first time try again.
Good Luck :-)
Jeff
OK There's my plug for a great deal.
I have a couple of questions that I feel are pretty simple , The first I should be able to answer myself, But I do not have the books. Since I bought it used I guess the boys in the detail shop at the dealership threw them away.
1.) I am told that a block heater is standard on the 5.3 vortec, Where do I find the cord to plug it in? I live in northish Illinois and we have already had a few nights below 0 F and it would be nice to plug that heater in.
My second questions pertains to my fathers 05 Silverado. The truck also has the 5.3 Vortec, however he didn't realize at the time he bought it that it didn't have cruise control. this is something he regrets as he loves to use cruise when he travels. I have looked into what it would take to "add it on" I was very surprised to find an add on ebay for the turn signal handle for his truck that stated that this one part was all you need if you have a factory V-8 It states that all the other components are already there and ready!! Can anyone confirm or deny this? The guy I found on ebay has sold many of them and also claims to install them for a local dealer at $400.00 per!
Thanks in advance for your input here.
Jeff
73 K-10 350 .030 stroked ported Holly 1150 hooker locker front Posi rear Screaming for mud machine!
02 Siverado Ext. Cab pretty as an 18 year old girlfriend!
Now yesterday I am driving down the highway on my way to work, and my RPM's jump to 3500 (normally runs just over 2000 with cruise set at 75mph) check engine light started flashing, then speed dropped back to 50mph, I tried down shifting thinking maybe I lost a gear, and it didn't do anything... so I managed to struggle to work going 50-55, it wouldn't go any faster than that... got to work and go to back in to a parking spot and truck stalled on me, and all the electrical went off, then slowly came back on but not as bright as normal, was able to start the truck again but whenever I put into gear it would stall, left it sit at work overnight, then today start it up and it runs, can drive it but stomp on the gas and it chugs along like its trying to go but can't...doesn't pickup speed.
Wondering if anyone has any ideas where to start? So far I've been told its the cat converter is plugged so replace that and it will be fine, next person says its something wrong with the ECU, replace it and I'll be good, had a third say simply plugs/wires need to be replace-which makes no sense to me at all since it still runs/idles... and a fourth person tells me I've lost a gear in the transmission... (none of which have been verified to know what they are talking about) so any ideas? Hate to start throwing money at it right away without being fairly certain whats wrong with it...
Works great.
For the Oil Change reset follow Jeff's instructions if you don't have steering wheel controls. If you do have steering wheel controls there's a menu option that displays the oil life % in the odometer area. Once you've brought it up you can just hold the reset button for a few seconds and it will reset to 100%. I believe the button to change the display to the oil life is the bottom left button on the steering wheel (hit repeatedly til Oil Life % shows). The reset button has the arrow symbol that looks like the one on the Enter / Return key of most computer keyboards.
I wish you the best of luck, I too had high hopes when I first bought my new 2001 Silverado ext-cab Z-71 back in Dec 2000.
As of 1/25/06 I've got 47,300 miles on it.
Problems so far have been 10 sec of cold start engine ticking (no fix), windshield outside trim rattle (sealed it with doublesided tape), intermediate steering shaft rattles (replaced twice), driveline clunk (yoke replaced), driver's door electric window noises (motor replaced), stuck in 4wd-Hi (4wd module replaced).
It's sad to say, but GM quality is very questionable these days (even in my Indiana made Silverado). And unless GM starts to invest in better engineering, testing and quality control processes, I doubt I'll ever by another GM product again.
GM will make back the money from their current price cut program when us owners have to shell out the $$$ for parts and repair costs when the warranty runs out.
thanks
many quality awards from both GM itself and
JD Power and Company (and a few other ratings
sites also).
either !
Take a trip over to tundrasolutions.com or titantalk.com
even ridgelineownersclub.com not to mention the problem
boards here at Edmunds.
LOTS of problems over there too!
If only EVERY vehicle could be perfect...........
Hope this helps
Ever heard of the UAW?
I had similar issue with a Pontiac - I just about went nuts trying to figure it out - even to the point of buying some wire and running directly from the battery so i could test each light bulb - I finally checked the ground and it had a little bit of rust around the connection. cleaned it off and all my problems were solved.
If you look at the wires that run to/between your tail light housings you should see a lone green one that runs directly to the frame - make sure it is a good connection.
The company still operates - but moved all its manufacturing jobs out of the country. The work rules were also a complete JOKE - you needed to call in an electrician if you wanted to plug in a desk lamp.
So even though I think unions are a complete waste - I can't blame GM's (or Ford's) problems on the UAW. It was management's responsibility to determine what the company could afford - and say NO - it was managements responsibility to stand up to the union and even take a strike - if they had to. This is a management failure.
The reason management did not do this is obvious - they would rather keep things going so they can get their bonus - they did not care if in 10 or 15 or 20 years the company would be completely screwed because by then they would be someplace else - and they would have the millions of dollars that they earned MAKING BAD DECISIONS.
Thanks again.
Thanks,
Mark
DRL works, park lights work but when I turn on the headlights they go off. I've been using DRL and then turning on the park lights to drive at night but I don't have high beams. Have you had any luck in figuring your problem out?
Thanks
I am getting alot of vibration in the steering colum of my 2000 1500 pickup. It is really harsh when I go across train tracks, or other small bumps. You can actually feel every bump in the steering wheel. Is this the steering colum or the shocks?
Tim
fourth at 55000, and we never pull more than 20000 lbs with this one ton. GM just keeps putting clutches and slave cylinders in at their own expense. This truck is going down the road soon,but to the junk yard as soon as it is off warranty. Dont grt me wrong just yet,I have logged over 5000,0000 miles on older GM cluthes in 5 tons and never had this problem. Too bad we couldn't pu 1960's clutches in them.
I've been told it's fuel pressure and others tell me a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator would make it run bad, too, but it runs great.
It has a new air cleaner, new spark plugs and a new fuel filter. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
It may or may NOT work for ya depending on which Delco unit you have. You can give it a shot.............
If it don't work its off to the dealer and it must be hooked up to the Tech 2 machine at about $100 a pop!
Find the FPR...Pull off the rubber nipple at FPR and check and see if its WET with fuel (after running engine and shutting off). DO NOT attempt on running engine !!!!!
If its wet with fuel ........Its bad!
Or check one of the GM truck web sites for proper procedure.
Do you or any one else have a thunking noise in the rear tires area when you turn the truck or go over some rough areas? I don't know if it is a shock issue or maybe u-joints.
Thanks again for your help. Will put it to good use.