Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

wrufit · February 2006

I pulled the rubber off of the FPR and fuel came out. It took me about 2 minutes to get the old one off and about 20 minutes to put the clip back over the new one. But I got it on and it cured my problem. I started it several times today and it always starts right up.

Happy Truck
Thanks geo

geo9 · February 2006

Glad to hear !!!!!!!!

Pretty simple huh? That clip can be a pisser tho. !
Lucky it wasn't a Caddy Northstar cuz you have to
loosen up the fuel rail(s) to get the clip in right.
Then make sure the fuel rail and o rings are seated
properly.............

Easy and cheap fix...........Just think if the dealer
had it and started throwing $pendy parts at it !!!! :sick:

jcr2 · February 2006

You have 2 recourses You can go back to the gasoline station and send them the bill or go to your Insurance company and they will pay for it. GM should have flushed and cleaned the tank before they did the work. They owe you for the second one.

geo9 · February 2006

Year and model ??????????

Do you have a tilt wheel?

halofan · February 2006

This is more than likely your "intermediate steering shaft". I had the same problem, I took it to my dealer and described the problem and he knew what it was without even looking. It was replaced and the truck rides as good as new. Mine was warranty so I don't know how much the part costs. Good luck, but I'd bet this is your problem.

johan · February 2006

I have not had any luck yet i have tried the drl relay and module and are both fine i have checked for power where it is supposed to be and thats all fine the only thing is there might be a bad connection in the switch it self.A buddy has the same truck so i'm going try his switch in my truck and see.If thats not the problem the hunt begins for a short in the system i'll let you know how i do.

lions · February 2006

Hello all well my dealer doesn't know why my truck pulls to the right they say they all do that. They have change tires,checked the alignment, checked the level of the truck,steering box has been changed, is there anything eles I can do, I have to keep the wheel to the left all the time the truck straight down the road. It has 32,000 miles on it. Thanks for any help.

exfarmboy · February 2006

My father has a 2004 Silverado 2500 Duramax (diesel) extended cab. It's the nicest truck he's ever had but is having trouble with his Allison transmission hesitating when he puts it in reverse. Several dealers and technicians haven't been able to diagnose. Anyone have ideas or similar problems?

noobie1 · February 2006

lions; Rotate the tires and make sure the pressure is correct. It will at the very least eliminate those possibilities.

-David

coopster3 · February 2006

first,I love chevys! thanks to my dad (54 hardtop 265 i-6 w/dual carbs- latest progect) so buying anything but a bowtie would make me violently ill. after squeezing 400k out uf my '88 scottsdale, i took off my full roller rockers and traded it in (they gave me 3000 for it) on an '06 2500hd w/6.0 gas & od auto (long bed of course) which i love! i was told they only come with 4.10 rear gears so i paid an extra 2k(parts & labor) for them to switch them to 3.73s, thinking i would be getting better gas mileage,right?.....wrong! i'm getting wourse! 9.4mpg to be precice. i also run @ 2900 rpm @ 80mph exactly the same as before;is that even posible? i had the dealership double check the part #s & they are right for 3.73s. does the tranny just adjust itself to run @ higher rpm? & if so is there a software patch to fix this? the dealership guys look at me cross-eyed when i try to explain to them, so i need to find the solution myself & take it to them or i'll have to switch the gears back before i go cccccrrrrraaaaazzzzzyyyyy!!!!! please help or point me towards help!....my brain hurts. :sick:

rayt2 · February 2006

Lions, Haven't heard anyone suggest this but ....check the front calipers one may be hanging up causing constant pull on that wheel. Look at the wear on disc pads see if anything is different bewteen right and left sides. Is one more worn than the other that may be the problem. Is the rotor "blueing" or turning color indicating excessive heat on that side? Just my thoughts from a similar "pulling" problem. My was only under braking when it acted up though.

Geo, is it winter yet??? where the hecks the snow?? You slumming down in Jersey ? won't find any there either LOL :shades:
Ray T.

coopster3 · February 2006

Am I the only person hairbrained enough to try this? 9.4mpg can't be a normal average, the trailer I sometimes pull only weighs about 1k lbs and 40% of my miles are highway.Should the tech guys at the dealership have known the tranny wouldn't work well with 3.73s since it was set up with 4.10s? I thought the extra tourque of the 6liter would make up the difference...guess not. They called and got new settings for speedo registered to my vin# so I thought the switch was routine, but it doesn't feel right; I know my tahoe is lighter, but I could load it down with fatasses and still smoke my hd empty, and it has a 327!-- thats a 5.3 for the non-oldschoolers--I've got the old gears in my shed, but if I change them back myself,I screw my warranty; and I'm too proud (and too broke) to pay them 1k to put them back. A 383cid should not act like a 305!............ I think I scewed myself. :mad:

coopster3 · February 2006

3&4 might be the battery wire on trailer hookup; if trailer was plugged in while sitting. Not sure about 1&2.

geo9 · February 2006

Ya gotta remember the poor 6.0 and 8.1 is strangled with
GMs torque mgmt. program.

The 4.8 and 5.3s run like scalded dogs compared to the 6.0.
Till ya put 10k lbs. behind it !!!!!!!!!!

My buds bone stock 04 5.3 x-cab 4x4 will run circles
around my 04 2500 x-cab 4x4 and I have a Hypertech 3
tune loaded into it !!!!!!!!!!

10 mpg....Thats about right ! Imagine if ya had a 8.1 !

geo9 · February 2006

Hey mister !

FINALLY got some snow today in Syracuse ! Got to work that
truck.............

Yea.......Goofing off in NJ! Sunshine and birds singing down there................
Thats why I am the "bar and travel consultant" over at the snowplowing forum and NOT a moderator !!!!! :P

p100 · February 2006

Something is rotten in the kingdom of Denmark. Your RPMs with the new gearing should be about 10% lower than before at the same speed, unless you changed the tire size for smaller tires. Also, you should see an improvement in fuel economy when driving the truck empty. The reason why HD 2500 trucks get lousy fuel economy is primarily the gearing. 4.10 gears are best for towing, not driving an empty truck. There is nothing wrong with going to 3.73 gears if you do not tow heavy trailers with your truck. In fact, the 1500 HD series, that comes with the same engine as 2500 HD, actually comes with 3.73 gears as standard equipment.

$ 2K to change one set of pinion and ring gears appears outrageous to me. Even if your truck is 4 WD and two sets of gears required, it is still high. Years ago I remember I wanted to change the gear ratio on my 1985 Mustang GT and I was quoted something like $ 400 by a Ford dealer (parts and labor).

Perform a simple test to see if you in fact have 3.73 gears. Jack up the rear axle at the differential, place the vehicle in neutral. Mark one wheel and driveshaft with masking tape for a reference point, then count the number of driveshaft turns required to get one full wheel revolution. For 3.73 ratio gears, 3.73 revolutions of the shaft will produce one full wheel revolution. You should be able to do this test fairly accurately.

coopster3 · February 2006

Lions, if what rayt2 said to check turns out to be the case,(blueing rotors) you might also check the rubber hoses to calipers. -sounds stupid but I've seen two perfect looking hoses on two different trucks do the same thing- one of them AFTER a new caliper was installed. The hose collapsed inside and was acting like a one-way valve, holding pressure & making the truck pull to the side. they only cost $20 each -usually-

coopster3 · February 2006

Thanks p100, I never knew that about how to check the ratio; I will definitely try that. --same tires-- also, I knew they were raping me on the price for the switch --the locker gears themselves were $800 and thats gms price-- but I knew I had to let them do the work so warranty would cover.

coopster3 · February 2006

'04 tahoe Z71 w/5.3 --best-- and one of the fastest trucks I've ever had. I have pulled some heavy stuff with my HD so far, which left me with a stupid grin, but I guess I was expecting a bigger difference.--What mpg does the 8.1 get?--

jsmess · February 2006

I am hearing a noise from the passenger side ( I think in front of the fire wall) at random times. This noise sounds like a spring being "un-sprung'. Any ideas on what this might be?

jneal · February 2006

I tend to think that your problem may very well be related to the trailer wiring/connection. Since you only had the problem while trailering and now it has cleared itself, check the trailer light connection closely and the trailer wiring itself for shorts and/or bad grounds.

farmin_dave · February 2006

Replaced the trans on my 99 z71 last night. Failed to mark all wiring harnesses. There are 4 harnesses that are exactly alike. The truck right now drives in 1st and 2nd. Must manually shift from 1st to 2nd. In overdrive it will not shift from 1st to 2nd. Also my speedometer doesn't work and the "On the go 4X4" switch doesn't light up. I am looking for a manual or anything to help me out.

coopster3 · February 2006

make & model???? If it's coil spings, it could just be a rock stuck under the spring (take the weight off the spring to check under it) or the sping rubbing the insde of the upper bucket-- which usually means the spring has stretched outwards (gotten fatter) and you'll have to change them (you don't want to change just one)

dacarz71 · February 2006

Does anyone know if the instrument panels are interchangeable between the SS and a regular Silverado. I want to put the SS instrument cluster if possible.

noobie1 · February 2006

Coop;
I hate to break it to you; My 8.1L gets 12+, mostly highway. If I do a lot of stop & go it'll dip into the 10's. You should be getting better, 14-15 mpg at least. Somthin' idn't right.

-David

chevymike · February 2006

Every time I use the defroster, the compressor seems to cycle on about every 10-15 seconds and it does so with a loud "thud" that makes the floor boards shake. Even when the radio is on you can still tell when it is cycling. Anyone have a similar problem? I appreciate your comments. My truck has only 17,000 miles on it and I have a list of items to take to the dealer about... loose steering shaft, shifting clunk between 2nd and 3rd gear, tranny slip, etc. How many problems does it take to have a recall notice?

rabbyt · February 2006

The cruise control on my 2000 model 1500 works fine if I am on level ground. If I'm going up an incline the MPH could drop from 70 to 50 before the truck tries to speed back up. Is there some sensor I need to replace or do I have to replace the total cruise unit ?

jsmess · February 2006

2000 Z71 EXT Cab. It's a soft, muffled sound. Something in the climate control, ducting?

Thanks

jman3670 · February 2006

steve80,
round 2 with gm, problem came back turns out it is corrosion in the fuel line. they still will not return money, the gm rep states that something in my fuel caused this problem. this is what the service manager states but will not let me speak with the rep. anyway can you give me the name and number for the dealership you went to.
thanks,
jason

buckeye11 · February 2006

I have an 05 Silverado 4x4 with 17500 miles. At 16000 and a tire rotation and balance, I noticed a vibration and strange noise from my left front tire, like the wheel was wobbeling. Took it to dealer, and they replaced left front bearing/hub. Low a behold, vibration and noise still there. The sound it makes it like a bowling ball sounds when it is traveling down the lane. The faster I go, the louder and more times the "ball rolls". It could be just road noise, but just seems like it is more to it. The tires are Bridgstone Dueller. Any thoughts?

roughneck · February 2006

I have a 04 duramax Just got back in town and had the truck parked for a month. Had a friend come by and start it every now and then. When I went to drive it my brakes were spongy and felt like it wasn't going to stop. Pulled over and the brake resevor is full. Also when at a complete stop I press down on the pedal and wants to stop were is usually stops then I can press harder and the pedal goes to the floor with what sounds like the anti-lock brakes r engaging. Could my lines get aired up from sitting idle? Have never had it happen before and the truck was fine when I left.

p100 · February 2006

Were the tires worn unevenly before you rotated them? subbest you rotate them back and see if anything changes.

shiftless · February 2006

As a back-up to p100, switch your front tires to the opposite sides to determine if the vibration moves with a single tire. I had the same situation and found that the left front shock was bad from the factory and caused the tire to wear with a rough outside diameter. The problem was road noise from the tire.

Ed

berry45 · February 2006

Hey guys,I just bought an 03' Z71, and the front end sits about two inches lower than the rear. What would be the best way to level out the front end? Any advice on this topic would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

bigfur · February 2006

Check the sides at the front of the hood. There should be two little rubber looking screws. Unscrew them to raise the hood slightly. If you go too far obviously screw them back in. In extreme cases you may have to adjust the release too. Good luck.

buckeye11 · February 2006

No, the tires were not worn evenly before the rotation. The front tires looked more worn, especially around the outside edges.

jerrywimer · February 2006

It depends on your goal. The lower front end on these trucks is by design so that they will be close to level with a load. When unloaded the front down stance also serves to slightly reduce drag, so raising it may cause you to notice a gas mileage drop.

Many people adjust the torsion bars to raise the front end or buy new torsion bar keys (reindexed keys affect how stiff the torsion bars can be set, allowing for greater hieght increases). "Ford keys" are a popular internet search term for owners doing this. Keep in mind that the torsion bars are the actual springs for the front suspension so tightening them to raise the front stiffens the suspension and can affect the ride quality. There has been minor debate as to whether this change affects the longevity of the front suspension too, but so far I haven't read of anyone actually having anything break. Some owners consider the fuel efficiency change or ride change to be a non-issue, especially considering the "leveled" look they're after, so it's entirely a personal issue. Search the internet for more information on what's involved for adjusting the torsion bars.

Kits are also now available. These usually include longer shocks for the front to compensate for the increased suspension travel and a set of reindexed keys among other things. Some include a complete 4 shock setup (to match the front and rear) while others offer just replacements for the front. I've only seen them on the market for the past several months and haven't seen any feedback from others that may be using them.

kfosle · February 2006

My 2005 Silverado has the same problem, and I only used CD's in it. Was wondering if quick fix was found or what repair shop had to do to fix the problem.

p100 · February 2006

You may also have the front toe-in alignment setting out of proper adjustment range. Improper toe-in setting is what usually causes front tires to wear faster at the edges. Suggest you have the alignment checked also.

parplus1 · February 2006

My problem isn't pegging. My speedometer will work fine when just starting to drive. But on long trips or when I stop at a redlight or when I am picking someone up and leave the truck running the speedometer just quits working. Any one have any suggestions about this problem?

z71bill · February 2006

Changing gearing and the impact on MPG is not as straight forward as many people think. Just because you change to a 10% higher gearing (like from a 4.1 to 3.73) does not mean your MPG will increase by 10 %. This is true even if you are not hauling or towing (running empty).

Think of it like this - what RPM does your truck shift at (1-2) when you are empty - now fill the bed with rocks - I bet the shift point is now higher. Replacing the 4.1 gears with 3.73 is making your engine work harder all the time - just like you have rocks in the bed! So the difference between these gears and the change in MPG will be very small.

If you still don't agree - take a bike that has adjustable gears. How hard is it to get going from a stop if you are in 5th gear compared to 2nd gear?

willis4607 · February 2006

My speedometer did the same thing. I took it to the dealer and they hooked up the computer and tested the gauges. It has been 1 week since they did that and no problems yet. The dealership told me that they have had many Silverado's that has had this problem and they replace the gauge cluster in each one.

silverado2 · February 2006

My 1995 silverado had been doing the same thing. I had taken it to my mechanics to have it looked at and was told the sensors that read the wheel bearings are bad. I guess you really are not to replace just the sensors. Why I am not sure. My mechanic won't do it. He says the front wheel bearings are wore thus causing the sensor not to read it. Thay cannot tell if the truck is slipping, thus engaging the anti-locks

coopster3 · February 2006

If it's truly random, it's probly related to the temperature of the vent air. Like a ducting door getting partialy stuck open or closed until the air temp expands it or contracts it enough to slip past. You might check the temp settings next time you hear it and try to reprduce the sound by changing temp and redirecting air (defrost,vent,heat, ect.) and after it cools (or heats up) change it back...then you'll know. hope it helps.

coopster3 · February 2006

I should have done my research BEFORE I paid for the switch. The 10% thing made sense at the time....of coarse, so did my EX-wife, and that was expensive too. thanx.

jnye · February 2006

Vehicle: 2005 2500HD w/ Duramax and Allison 5-speed w/ less than 6K miles.

I've done searches and have come up w/ lots of discussions re: the Allison transmission acting badly in the cold. I also have a GM notice saying the same thing (and that this is by design). But is this acceptable?

Several times upon stopping my truck will slip into neutral or feel like it is almost neutral (slipping). This allows me to get through the intersection but seems to me this is something I shouldn't have to be concerned with. Not sure it is just an issue of letting the vehicle warm up. After this happening, I decided to take the truck to the dealership. For 12 miles, the vehicle did not shift out of first. Shouldn't it have been warm enough for this not to be the explanation?

Then today, I took delivery of the vehicle from the dealership. The temp gauge had registered an increase. The first stop and start resulted in the slipping. After about 20 seconds of coasting, the vehicle violently shifted up. Had a service guy w/ me in the vehicle and he agreed to take it back. Not sure what they'll come up with since they've already had the vehicle for several days.

Any ideas what is going on? Help/advice appreciated.

noobie1 · February 2006

Kip, a guy who used to post here, had the Allison in his truck (8.1L) replaced three times; and they still didn't get it right. He finally traded it for an F150. Mine acts peculiar sometimes but never like you describe. Based on my experience I wouldn't expect it to be a temperature issue. I've driven mine in 0 deg. temp. without fault. The way computers are sometimes so finicky you can't help but suspect the TCM.
-BTW- Would you please post the links to the discussions you mentioned above. Thanks.

-David

phenix3 · February 2006

Just bought really nice silverado 350/350 looks and runs like it has had the goodies put to it however the speedo is not hooked up do i just need the sending unit for a 89 or is there a adapter to get the speedo hooked up i really think i'm gonna need it........

Paul

uwmad · February 2006

I have the same problem. I recently went out of warranty so I can no longer have it fixed unless it's a recall or something. Please let me know what you find out. I had clunking in the rear-end that was a bad rear shaft yoke. I think there was a notice out for that.

firesource · February 2006

Well, it's been 1 1/2 weeks since service appt # 4, and while I'm leary to get too excited ---- I think my problem may be fixed.

There was a new TSB put out recently about Tahoes / Escalades / Suburbans / Silverados --- and Fender bushings.

The dealer removed my driver side fender and hood, then adjusted the fender 1/16" forward when placing it back onthe truck. Apparently, when the fending is "seated" prior to tightening the fasteners, the fasterners themselves shift. Although there was NO INDICATION that the rattle / clunk / pop was coming directly from the fender ---- low and behold, simply taking it off and shifting it slightly forward before re-fastening, made all the difference in the world. The clunk / pop / rattle I've heard for over 8,000 miles appears to be gone.

All this after a new intermediate steering shaft, front shocks, body mounts --- all failed to fix the problem.

Well, lets hope this is the permanent fix.

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Chevy Silverado: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions