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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • nmalonmalo Member Posts: 1
    Having similar problems.. have you fixed the problem? What was wrong?
  • gdanegdane Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2006 2500HD Silverado Duramax with the new 6 speed Allison. The vehicle has about 1900 miles on it.

    While traveling on level ground with very slow and gradual acceleration at about 65 to 70 miles per hour the vehicle starts to shutter, like it's in a gear to high for the speed and needs to down shift.

    If you apply more acceleration the problem continues until about 75 mph.

    The condition exists with cruise control on or off.

    If you move the transmission to the manual mode and shift down to 5th gear the shutter goes away.

    Does anyone else have this problem?
  • be91194be91194 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Silverado Z71 and also have lots of interior cab noise. All noise seems to be coming from the plastic door panels and trim. I had it into the Chevy dealer under warranty and their trim technician rode around the parking lot with me. He heard the noise but said there was nothing that could be done about it. He said it was because of the long span between the doors with no center pillar, lets the truck flex and cause the noise. I don't buy it. I have two friends with silverados and their trucks are tight and quiet. I got nowhere. I just live with the sound. Now at 50,000 miles I am getting "piston slap" on startup. I'm real close to unloading the truck. 14 invoices to date for repairs in 4 years.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    "I'm real close to unloading the truck. 14 invoices to date for repairs in 4 years"

    My truck's folder at the dealership was 2" thick in less than a year. That's what the service advisor told the GM rep when it came time to discuss alternatives to buyback. Took a 5/100 Major Guard extended warranty in lieu of a buyback since I had added a lot of aftermarket parts which I didn't want to remove. Got rid of all the rattles when I dynamat the truck since it allowed me to tighten every nut and bolt since I removed everything to install it.

    That was on a '00 extended cab Silverado. Got a '05 Nissan Titan...funny thing don't even have a service folder.
  • ocotilloottoocotillootto Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Z71. For sometime now, whenever I turn the ignition on or off, a baffle in the heater housing starts slapping. It lasts about 10 seconds then stops. It doesn't seem to have affected the performance of the system but IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!! Does anybody know the cause and cure?

    Thanks
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    This looks like a transmission reprogramming issue. GM programs most of their vehicles to shift into the highest gear at very low RPMs, relying on the engine torque to handle it.
  • problem3problem3 Member Posts: 3
    Been reading all posts since 2000. Own a 2500HD 4X4 Ext Cab 6.0L. Has had a vibration between 70 & 80 mph since the truck had 26,000 miles (now at 58,000) Dealer replaced drive shaft and recently turned it 180 degrees. No Help. Truck has a different set of tires now. Has not helped. Vibrates under acceleration or steady speed. Let off the accelerator and the vibration stops. You can set the cruise control at 74 and downshift to third gear and vibration increases in amplitude. Of course dealer can't find it. Anyone?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Did you have the driveshaft checked for balance?
    If your driveshaft has a support bearing, carefully inspect the rubber bushing around the bearing. If that bushing is damaged aor loose, it can cause very unpleasant vibration.
    Becuase your vibration occurs only under load, you may have an issue with U-joints. Have you installed a lift kit on this truck?

    One thing I would check is possibility of a bent axle, which would cause one wheel to move up and down. Jack up the truck by the rear axle differential on level surface, and place jackstands under the axle. Start the engine
    and place the truck in drive. Observe the rear wheels for any up and down movement. Look at the driveshaft while it is rotating and watch for driveshaft vibration. This test is best done with a helper in the cab in case something goes wrong (like truck falling off the jack stands). Do not crawl under the truck while doing this! Observe rotation of parts from several feet away.

    You mentioned that the tires were changed and there is no difference. While doing the above test you can also check the tires for out-of-round condition, which could also cause vibration. However, if this were the cause, the vibration would not go away under coasting conditions. Seems to me that your problem is related to the driveshaft carrier bearing or the U-joints, or unbalanced driveshaft.

    But, if your driveshaft was replaced along with the U-joints, one can eliminate this as the cause.

    Next thing I would check are motor and transmission mounts. Under load, bad mounts could cause the driveline to vibrate.
  • jsdrewjsdrew Member Posts: 2
    I have a pin hole leak in the rear housing of my transfer case. I returned the first replacement transfer case (used) because it had the same leak. Both transfer cases have about 60K miles.

    We cracked the case open and found a snap ring was causing the problem by wearing the hole where it touches the housing.

    I’m currently waiting for delivery of a new transfer case from Chevy and wondering if this is common problem? Will I need to replace the transfer case every 60K miles?
  • problem3problem3 Member Posts: 3
    Here was the solution....and the problem

    Problem: "But, if your driveshaft was replaced along with the U-joints, one can eliminate this as the cause."

    Everyone assumed this and the u-joints were the problem. Because the driveshaft was a factory replacement everyone, including me, assumed the problem was something else. Turns out that the factory u-joints were not lasting very long on this truck. Of course the next question is, "is there something else causing the u-joints to wear prematurely on this truck?" Time will tell, but the vibration is gone and the truck is as smooth as it was 57K ago. Thanks for the input.
  • problem3problem3 Member Posts: 3
    I also have an 03 HD, (see above posting) and the rear seal on the transfer case was replaced when the truck had 13k on it. I now have 57k and have a small leak developing again. Might be caused by the above u-joint problem and vibration in the drive shaft, who knows. Where on the case was your leak coming from?
  • jsdrewjsdrew Member Posts: 2
    The leak occurred on the "passenger" side where the rear housing necks down, about 5 inches forward of the rear seal. No seals or gaskets are involved, the hole developed in the side of the magnesium casing. It wares from the inside to the outside. My mechanic said it looks like the snap ring turns on the shaft when going between forward and reverse. The constant "tapping" wares a hole through the side of the housing.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I've heard of this problem at least once, maybe twice, on this forum within the last few years.

    -David
  • buildintechiebuildintechie Member Posts: 5
    Hello to all-
    I'm also a first time buyer and would like a little information from those who have purchased trucks on what I would really "need" (options, etc) and suggested brands.
    First, a little about myself.
    I'm a college student in North Carolina, graduting in Decemeber 2006, as a Construction Management major. I'll be going into residential contracting as a supervisor...not a grunt. I'm planning to purchase in the beginning of the summer, probably may or june.
    I'm looking to purchase a truck for myself, it will be a dualpurpose vehicle....my only mode of transportation and as a vehicle to drive around a worksite from house to house. I currently have a volvo wagon, with standard transmission, and shifting a couple times to only go 50 feet gets old real quick. So automatic is a must. Since its my only vehicle, its gotta have a nice ride, I'm not one who likes to feel every single bump in the road.
    One decision that is holding me up is 4x2 vs 4x4...I live in the south and dont plan to move north, we rarely get snow and when we do I like just staying in bed (haha). I'm not one for offroading, so I'm leaning towards just a 4x2. Anybody have any particular reason why I should consider 4x4?.
    NExt big decision is extended cab vs. double cab. I gradute in december, and wont be getting married anytime soon...my girlfriend still has a couple years of college (and I'm a ways off from marriage anyways...so kids although I'd like a couple in the future, are at least 4 or 5 years away.
    Big decision #3 is diesel vs gasoline. I dont have a boat, and I dont really plan on doing a whole lot of trailering, and the research I've done mostly states that diesel really pulls through with the torque and power end of things, to really help getting those big loads moving...correct?
    Also, since I'm plannign on getting an '06, does anybody have any major grief with them? I've been looking through the forums but havent found anything huge that people have had tons of problems with them. (Or did I miss something?)
    Thanks alot
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    If your going to be driving around job sights 4X4 is a must have. Get a little rain and the job sights become muck, and if your in an area of soft sand even more of a reason. And if nothing else, you are sure to get your money back when you trade it.
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    I'll make an argument for 2 wheel drive.

    4 wheel drive without a locking or limited slip rear differential is really just a 2 wheel drive truck when it comes down to traction on slick surfaces. Ulimately, you'd want 4 wheel drive with a locking rear dif, which in the worst conditions gives you 3 wheels with traction. However 4WD is more expensive and you get worse gas mileage even on the highway in 2WD mode. Most people rarely even use it. Regular maintenance and repairs are more costly on 4WD also. For less than $300 bucks you can get the locking rear differential option on a 2WD truck, which basically gives you 2 wheels with positraction, same as a "4WD" without the locker/limited slip which runs a couple thousand $ more.

    Ext cab vs double cab. How often do you think you will be carrying adult passengers? If that will be rare, go with the ext cab. Our backseat is used for cargo and grocerys much more than passengers. But works well for passengers when needed. The double cab weighs more and shortens the bed, unless you get the long [non-permissible content removed] version that makes parking and manuvering in tight spaces a hassle. Besides, even if you have kids later while you still own the truck, how much leg room do they really need? They'll be in carseats:)

    Diesel vs Gas. Diesels are around $8000 more. Do you need all that tourqe? I know I wanted it! But couldn't really justify the cost since I'll never need to tow more than 6000lbs. Diesel costs more than gasoline nowadays too.

    After much thought and research, I went with a 2005 Chevy Silverado LS (2006 models are renamed trim level "LT2") 2WD 1500 Ext cab with the 5.3L vortex engine, locking rear diff, and 3.73 gear ratio for towing. I'm very happy with it, and although I've only racked up 7900 miles so far (half towing about 4000lbs) I've had no problems at all.

    Just my 2 cents:)
  • buildintechiebuildintechie Member Posts: 5
    "For less than $300 bucks you can get the locking rear differential option on a 2WD truck, which basically gives you 2 wheels with positraction, same as a "4WD" without the locker/limited slip which runs a couple thousand $ more."

    I just looked on the chevy build and price site, and it appears that "Differential, locking, heavy-duty, rear (G80)" is standard on most, if not all trucks. (With the LT2 package at least.)

    Also...thoughts on the Vortec 6000 vs the vortec 5300 with flex fuel....the flex fuel sounds like a winner to me, and will only become more popular as time goes on.
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    I don't know anything about the 5300 Flex fuel, but my thoughts on the 6000 are that the major loss in fuel economy is not worth the little bit of extra HP and torque. The 5300 vortec gasser is a good strong engine.

    Chevy is coming out with an all new 2007 Silverado later this summer. You may want to wait and see what that brings. Click on "future vehicles" above for more info.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Quote:
    "4 wheel drive without a locking or limited slip rear differential is really just 2 wheel drive truck when it comes down to traction on slick surfaces".

    That is absolutely not true. I say that because I owned several 4 WD trucks and SUVs, all with either limited slip or locking rear differential. Without exception, all these vehicles got stuck in dry loose sand, or deep mud immediately when in the 2WD mode, limited or locking rear end or not. Engaging the 4WD got them going again immediately. There is no substitue for the front end wheels pulling uder poor traction condition.
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    Depends on the circumstances. Without a locker, power goes to the wheel that has no traction, front or rear. For instance, in 4WD if your right front and rear tires are spinning in mud, and your left front and rear are on dry dirt. You are stuck. If you had a locking diff, your rear left wheel would the one to pull you out. Ideally I would have 4WD with the locking rear diff, but in my case, I wouldn't use it enough to justify the added expense.

    My old Jeep CJ had a locking rear and limited slip front and I still got it stuck in snow. For serious 4 wheeling, theres nothing like a good wench on the front.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Quote: "For serious 4 wheeling, theres nothing like a good wench on the front".

    Personally I prefer a winch. :D
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    whoops, must be a sailboat thing:)
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Yeah, I prefer a good wench in bed, bud a good winch on front of my truck.
  • talon1talon1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello All,

    Firstly, I am newly joined to this forum, and secondly, allow me to proclaim my virtual ignorance of automobile
    mechanics.

    That having been said, I have a problem: I own a 2002 Chev Silverado extended cab 2 WD. Over the last couple of weeks
    I have noticed the odor of gasoline when I ended a trip and turned the engine off.

    The odor came not from the engine compartment but from an
    area of the bed immediately behind the cab on the drivers
    side. The area in question, was a hole provided for a support post on the edge of the pickup bed (there is, of course, 1 at each corner).

    This evening I crawled under the truck for the purpose of
    viewing anything unusual, and directly beneath the metal shield on the gasoline tank, I could make out what
    appeared to be a wide gasoline stain.

    Further looking revealed similar stains in an area that appears to be the bottom of the pickup bed, just immediately above whatever rests on top of the gas tank (I could not see on top of the gasoline tank; there were too many things in the way). There is about a 4 or 5 inch space gap between the top of the gasoline tank and the bottom of the pickup bed.

    At first blush, I thought that the stains on the bottom of the tank were spillage residue from overfilling the tank, but I could think of no way that such stains could likewise appear ABOVE the gas tank on the bottom of the truck bed.

    Has anyone ever heard of this problem before, and if so could someone suggest a remedy? The truck was purchased new and has never been wrecked or abused.

    Curiously, I have not noticed any appreciable loss in gas mileage, an observation which mystifies me since I would expect such an event if I were leaking gasoline.

    Finally, is this a dangerous problem, and if so, is it too dangerous to drive the vehicle to my dealership about 20 miles away?

    Thank you for indulging my ignorance and reviewing my questions.

    Sincerely

    talon1
  • outbrakeridahoutbrakeridah Member Posts: 5
    Hey guys my 4WD service light keeps on lighting up. I have about 88k on my 2000 Silverado. My 4WD works but the module is somewhat acting up. I have to hold down the button and shift it around a bit before it shifted into 4 wheel drive mode. I don't want to take it to a dealership to diagnose the problem as they will charge me an arm and a leg. After shutting off the engine it doesn't come back on. But then sometimes it comes back on while driving again. Anybody have this problem before?

    Also while checking out the front end to see if anything was wrong with the 4WD, I noticed a lot of grease on the plastic boot of the axle. There is no noticeable tear on the boot and I'm confused where the grease came from. The grease sprayed all over the fender wall. It can be a small crack that I can't see but anybody know whats possibly wrong?
  • eprebleepreble Member Posts: 1
    Have a 1995 Z71 with similar problems w/engine hesitation. Replaced the fuel filter three times, each time engine runs fine for a couple of weeks. Started adding fuel cleaners, again with can to 1/2 tank - runs fine during that time period. Also had a tuneup by the dealer.
    Will be driving, and get a hesitation like the engine wants to stop, but it continues to run. When this happens it will often happen 3-4 times in 5-6 miles. Then it will run fine for a week or more.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    About the boot slinging grease: I had something like this happen on my Mazda 626. Turns out that one of the boot clamps came loose (it was still on so it was not obvious at first). It takes a special tool to install most of these clamps (Auto Zone rents them for free). Once a clamp comes loose, it must be replaced with a new one. If this is the case, get two new clamps for the boot and a packet of special CV joint grease. Then remove the old clmaps, slide the boot off the joint and pack some new grease into the joint. No need to clean out the joint as there will be no dirt in there. You may skip regreasing if only a small amount of the joint grease got lost. Then install two new clamps with the special tool. There are two different clamp installation tools, depending on which style clamp you have.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I wonder if you may have a partially clogged fuel pump pickup screen in the tank.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Here is what I would do:

    I would start the truck in park (or neutral if manual transmission) and firmly set the parking brake. Place some chocks under the rear wheels. Then look under the truck with the engine running and fuel pump operating, if you see any gas dripping. You may have a loose flexible fuel line clamp somewhere, or a leaking solid fuel line joint. Carefully inspect the fuel tank fittings where the fuel line exits the tank.
  • roseman1roseman1 Member Posts: 1
    2003, Silverado 1500 EXT cab. Stereo has been great, then Tuesday last week, the radio quit playing. Everything looked ok, changed channels, remote mute and channel changer all worked, but no sound. Just like someone cut the speaker wires. No LOC or anything like that either.

    Took until Tuesday this week to get into shop. Had not driven it since friday. Went out to start it, and battery was COMPLETELY DEAD. Registered 3.3 V on my meter. Had AAA jump it (as described in the manual), and it started right up. Charging system registered working. Tried the radio on a whim - and the speakers are now working!!!!

    Dealer cannot find anything wrong - says battery is testing good and has no idea what to do about the radio. Is there a connection between a sterio that quit working and a discharged battery only a few days later? Any Thoughts?
  • 440volts440volts Member Posts: 1
    Can someone tell me how to replace my speedometer,it stopped working.
    chevy,silverado 2003 1500
  • ksessionsksessions Member Posts: 1
    Have you done anything more to correct this issue? I have a 1999 Silverado 4.3L (176,000 miles)that is having a simular issue but I am not unpluging wires but pulling the relay.
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    I had that same thing happen on a Jeep Wrangler I used to have. I never did figure out what the problem was and it never happened again. Bizzare.
  • kennydoesitkennydoesit Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Replaced converter, computer, ign module; did have a leaking Throttle Body gasket (so, that's an vacuum leak). But the SIlverado still dies. Im looking at the ignition coil next..

    This is a tuffie.
  • dadaisydadaisy Member Posts: 3
    I just bought my 16yr old son 1999 Silverado truck. my son and i just noticed a sound coming from inside the center of the truck. it sounds like when you have mud on tires and you take off how the tires throw the mud under the truck. i'm female so excuse how i described the noise. the sound is only when we take off and not all the time either. can someone please help me here and please don't tell me this is an expensive repair.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Where did you buy the truck? Did you take it back to them to ask what the noise was? Anyway, is there vibration in the steering wheel or elsewhere associated with the noise? Has the truck been modified in any way, ie. oversize tires, lift kit, etc? 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive? Automatic or manual tranmsission? Regular cab, extended cab?

    Have someone check the obvious, such as loose exhaust that might be banging against the bottom of the truck, damaged driveshaft carier bearing bushing (if it has a driveshaft carrier bearing). Some problems common of these trucks are defective intermediate steering shaft which can cause bouncing in the steering wheel and clunking.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    It sounds like a bad U-JOINT - This model Chevy is known for having this problem - mine did. Any mechanic worth $.02 can tell you if this is the problem - just by having you drive up to the shop. I know when I pulled in to get mine looked at - before I even said hello the service writer said - bad U-joint

    Actually you have at least 2 U-joints - if one is bad I would replace both - but ask them for a discount on the second one. I can't recall the exact amount I paid - it was like $125 for one and $165 if I did both at the same time. With my luck I would have ended up back at the shop a week later with the second one going out - and another $125 bill.
  • talon1talon1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello All,

    Forgive the tardiness of my return; things have
    been hectic the last couple of days.

    Firstly, my deepest appreciation to those who
    responded to my earlier plea for assistance.

    Secondly, here is the gist of what I discovered at my
    dealership: the plastic nipple atop the fuel pump was cracked and spraying gasoline upward to the underside
    of my truck bed. The repair required a replacement of
    the fuel pump-- a VERY costly repair.

    In any event, the concensus of the service department
    was (they have only had 2 of this type of complaint in
    three years) that an overzealous employee at a
    quick-service oil change business ( remaining unnamed)
    who had changed my oil, oil filter, and fuel filter
    2 months previously had handled the changing of the fuel
    filter a little roughly, cracking the plastic nipple
    on top of the fuel pump.

    They, the service personnel, said that they can think
    of nothing else that could account for such an event
    as happened to me, and the other situation they had
    dealt with also came from another individual who had
    likewise previously had his fuel filter changed at
    such an establishment.

    Assuming that their conclusions are in fact accurate,
    I am explaining this so that anyone else considering
    a fuel filter change at such a location be cautious
    and observant.

    Note, however, that this is not intended as a
    universal indictment of ALL such facilities;
    only a cautionary "heads-up" in the
    interest of prudence.

    Again, thank you.

    Sincerely,

    Talon1
  • stapesstapes Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just bought a 2WD 6 cylinder 2006 Silverado Extended Cab W/T a month ago. Since I picked the truck up, the gas peddle vibrates and I can hear vibrations in the truck when I accelerate. I took the truck in yesterday to the dealership service center and the guy didn't know what was wrong with it. Then today I get a call and the guy says there is a disturbance in the exhaust. There is nothing he can do. I have driven other 6 cylinder Silverados and have never noticed anything wrong. Has anyone else seen this, or can anyone explain to me what is going on? I would really appreciate any help I can get here.
  • gdubfgdubf Member Posts: 1
    I'm here for help ... if help it is that you give...

    I have a 2000 Silverado Truck. Symptoms:
    1. It's difficult to start - it "rolls over" fine (when it's not powerless), or makes a starting sound, but then won't stay started when I shift into drive
    2. Sometimes, it's completely dead inside; no lights, no locks, and of course the key won't do anything
    3. In December when I was driving home, it died in the road (no power whatsoever). Then it turned out the fuel filter exploded or something - I got that replaced.
    4. I've also replaced the battery, just in case.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    gdubf
  • phenix3phenix3 Member Posts: 2
    this is one of those projects replaced the rear shoes in the process found the wheel cylinder leaking replaced it screwed up the threads on the line replaced it getting no pressure to the back brakes bled them with a vacum pump replaced the master cylinder.if i disconnect the switch on the proportining valve light goes off brakse are kind of spongy..
    bad proporting vale?????scratching my head going WTF....ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED oh bled the abs valve and i think it is ok :sick:

    Paul
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    I had the same concern when I first drove chevy truck. A 2001 1500 HD. My past experience with trucks told me that what I was hearing was lifter noise. I was concerned , so I took it to a buddy of mine who is ASE certified and asked him about it. He told me that the GM engines make a similar sound to lifter clicking but that at idle speeds it's just the injectors. My truck has been making the same noise since I bought it, so I am inclined to believe him. Good Luck.
  • iqbaldhillon2iqbaldhillon2 Member Posts: 116
    I own a 2005 Silverado with a Z71 off road package. When ever I go over 60 miles there is a really annoying noise. I think I may have a transmission problem. The truck only has about 20000 miles on it. I dont understand the problem. Anybody know a solution? :confuse: Please write back. Thanks.
  • vp46vp46 Member Posts: 6
    :confuse: I too own a 05 Z71 mine is a Crew Cab.

    I don't have any wierd noises.

    I wary of my transmission - when its cold the tranny feels like it slips in Reverse. There have also been times where it would slip in forward also cold - it may have been an overly sensitive shifter???? IE not all the way engaged becuase it was in between D and another gear? Not really sure.

    Any one else have this issue?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    What kind of noise? Is it a buzzing, ratcheting, banging, groaning, or whining noise? Does it happen in a narrow speed range like 60-70 MPH, or all the time when going over 60 MPH? If it is a whining noise, it could be your rear differential. I had an issue like this with a Nissan truck. It was harmless, but annoying sometimes. It would only do it when coasting (foot off the gas pedal) and in the 45-55 MPH range). The noise was caused by slightly excessive backlash in the differential gears, which had no effect on the differential performance or its longevity.
    I have driven other trucks with the same noise before.

    I also had a weird buzzing noise in Nissan truck. It sounded like an angry giant bumlebee buzzzing inside the cabin. It turned out to be fluttering of partially loose mylar film on the upper windshield moulding! The noise was getting unbearable and it would come in at speeds over 45 MPH. Replacing the moulding fixed the problem for good.
  • yendor1yendor1 Member Posts: 4
  • yendor1yendor1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Chevy Silverado. Recently put a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump in it. Fuel pressure was 15lbs below listed factory pressure. Now at an idle the rpm's surge up and down in neutral and in gear. Have any ideas?
  • yendor1yendor1 Member Posts: 4
    My Service Four wheel drive light comes on every day, I have had it checked out but doesn't seem to be any problem with it. It works fine has anyone seen this problem?
  • pblb33pblb33 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys (and girls) I have a problem not sure if it is small or big really since I am not much of a mechanic, Whenever I start my truck, it make this squelling sound for about 5 to 25 seconds and then it goes away, I really have no clue what it is, but it only happens when I start the car, any help would be greatly appreciated, also when it is runnning, there is a slight tapping sound sometimes it gets louder but most of the time it isn't to audible, just wondering if anyone knew what these could be.

    pblb33
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Check your serpentine belt as the most probable cause for the squeal. As for the tapping sound, it's kind of hard to tell. I'd probably wait till I hear a knocking sound before worrying too much.
This discussion has been closed.