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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    There's one other reason why a 4WD (w/out locking rear diff) would be better than a 2WD w/locker- trucks are notoriously light in the rear end. With most of the weight over the front axle that one drive wheel up front has a greater chance of getting traction than the locked rears w/out weight. Same reason most people like front wheel drive cars over rear wheel drive cars for slick conditions.

    As far as when towing (even boats), you're putting more weight over the rear axle, at least if you're setting up the trailer right, so that situation balances things out for the 2WD w/locker quite a bit.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    A squeal upon startup is almost always caused by a loose engine belt.

    The tapping noise you hear could be the piston slap that many of these trucks have. Check www.pistonslap.com for more information.
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    I've got the 2WD with rear locker. I just had a stuation this weekend where I got the rear wheels stuck in a foot of snow. The front wheels were in about 4 inches. Both rears spun, so the locker wasn't enough to get me out. If I'd of had that one wheel up front, I know I could have gotten out. The weight up front is a good point.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Any 4WD vehicle, without limited slip or a locking defferential, is way more capable off road than the same type 2WD vehicle with a limited slip or a locking rear differential. Especially in loose sand or deep mud.
  • dadaisydadaisy Member Posts: 3
    bought truck from chevrolet dealership. did not purchase a warrenty. (not smart buy could not afford). there is no other vibrations or noises no modifications, 2 wheel drive, automatic, and regular cab. is the exhaust or driveshaft things expensive repairs. i really have always prefer Fords but my son like this Chevy. i bet moms do know best.
  • dadaisydadaisy Member Posts: 3
    u-joints? i bet with my luck it's both. what happens if i never fix it? will it leave me stranded one day?
  • gmc365gmc365 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 2000 z71. Have you had any luck finding out what it is?

    Thanks
    Chris
  • yendor1yendor1 Member Posts: 4
    No not yet, and no one reading these has obviously seen the problem either. However I did find out why my truck was surging at an idle. Leaking upper intake gasket in conjuntion with a bad fuel pump and regulator valve on fuel rail.All those problems at ounce make it hard to pinpoint....

    Yendor
  • lee337lee337 Member Posts: 1
    I've had the exact same problem on a 2004 HD 4x4 since it was new. Bill Jacobs Joliet has done several small things including replacing two pinion bearings that got fried most likely from incompetence on Bill Jacobs part. At some point a smart ales service rep named Scott stated that 75 is over the speed limit. informed him had I known that this vehicle was incapable of highway speeds in several states outside of his little world I wouldn't have purchased it. I have given up and no longer care. Don't pull out in front of me because I dearly want this truck gone. My only solution is that DODGE has 0% going on right now and I really liked my old DODGE 99.If you do figure it out drop me a line @ bkh337@aol.com :lemon:
  • indian3indian3 Member Posts: 14
    Anybody had any problems with their transmissions in an 04 silverado? I have an 04 1/2 ton crew with 5.3 and it was acting funny. Took it to the dealer and they said that it needed a software update. Now it seems to have less power. It seems to shift better(doesn't seem to hunt for gears).
  • indian3indian3 Member Posts: 14
    Found the answer there is tsb out on the reflash.
  • neiswangerneiswanger Member Posts: 3
    I'm not sure where you live, but living in the northern part of North Dakota, where the Temp. commonly drops belowe 0, My 2000 silverado will make the same high pitch squeal at initial startup for about ten seconds. this only happens when the ambient temp is lower than 0 degrees. As for the slight tapping noise, I took my truck to the dealer while still under warrenty, I was told it was a carbon tick, from a small piece of carbon chipping off the cylinder wall and it is now bouncing around in the cylinder, I was told there is no repair unless you are willing to tear the engine down and rebuild, also not a major problem. I have actually noticed the tick getting better, the carbon may have burned up.
  • neiswangerneiswanger Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem 3 and a half years ago. I will type exactly what is on my service invoice.

    Ran diagnostics- found code B2725-traced back to
    intermitent inop T-case switch replaced
    switch-
    774 w94
    1- 15709327 switch
    FC: 6D
    Part# 15709327

    I can't tell you what the charge will if it turns out to be the same problem, since I had this done under warrenty.
    I hope I help you.
  • thereisnospoonthereisnospoon Member Posts: 12
    Your solution:

    Buy an F150 or a Dodge Ram
  • ricsch1ricsch1 Member Posts: 17
    Has anyone experienced the tachometer making noise?

    As I accelerate or rev the engine slightly, there is a growl-like noise which seems to be coming from the gauge area of the dash. (Cannot hear it outside of the truck)

    Seems as the tach needle rises or drops the noise is present. Not sure what else it may be.
  • bkiedrobkiedro Member Posts: 4
    Hello there,
    I have a 2004 Silverado HD 4WD with a Duramax. I have 285 BFG's on it and it gets stuck VERY easy in the snow. Does anyone have a suggestion for tires/wheels that get better traction in the snow? I believe this is due to the extremely heavy front end, but I am in dire need of a solution for this situation, as my 2001 1500 will walk all over the Duramax. Any help would be appreciated.

    Brent
  • andeande Member Posts: 3
    Hello, I was hoping someone has installed a aftermarket stereo into a 01 silverado and know's how to bypass the factory fuel line "thingy." Once the factory stereo is removed it disables the fuel gauge in addition the low fuel light comes on (my tank was full) rendering it useless and making it close to impossible for me to upgrade my sound system. HELP!
    Andrea
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Try narrower tires. Dont recall exactly where i read it but i know that a narrower tire works better on snow and ice then a big fat tire.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    ANDREA..........That is simply NOT true !
    I do read posts from 04 and up GM owners complaining
    about having NO warning/door/key chimes (they are generated
    by/thru the radio) after replacing the factory unit
    with a aftermarket piece...................
  • andeande Member Posts: 3
    SO what should I do about the connection or what should I tell the company installing my stereo they said I'd have to hide the component (from my factory stereo) "somewhere" in the truck cause the factory one HAS TO be plugged in for it to work.
  • murrinmurrin Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2002 2wd silverado with a 4.3 in it and it gets terible fuel mileage. Got 16.5 around town when it was new know I get about 13.8 in town and 16 on the highway. I change oil every 3000mi and air filters once a year. the truck has 55000 mi. and I just changed the plugs Any ideas?
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    :cry: The after market stereo has noting to do with the malfunctioning fuel gauge. Problems with fuel gauges in 1999-2003 Silverados are very common, mine included. :cry:
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    ANDREA..............RUN away from that stereo shop !!!!!!
    Sounds like they don't have a clue.............
  • mwebsmwebs Member Posts: 2
    I also have an 01 Silverado with about 44K miles. I have the same bouncing fuel guage. Dealer suggested to contact Chevrolet. He also felt that a recall would not occure as it is not a safety issue. Has anyone contacted Chevrolet?
  • mwebsmwebs Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 silverado that does the same thing. Several hundred for the sender and several hundred for the labor. Estimates are about $800.00. Spoke to GM Assurance Center to try and negotiate a price with the dealer to fix. Search Fuel Gauge and you'll see 6 postings for the same problem.
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 1500 HD Crew Cab 4x4. It's been a good vehicle and I have enjoyed driving for the last 5 years. Have had few maintenance problems for the period of time. A few months ago the truck developed a strange clunk. At first it was difficult to place but as time has gone on it is obviously coming from the trans./transfer case area. It has progressively gotten worse. The sound is like that of a timing chain slipping over a gear. but I have had all that checked and things look fine. The dealership said that it is an axle problem. I really do not thinks so. I have read quit a few comments on this forum that seem to be of the same nature. My question is has anyone found out what the problem is? Lots of owners having similar problems but no solutions. Can any one advise?
    Thanks, ChevyFool
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    When's the last time you replaced your fuel filter?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I would say your injectors need cleaning. You can run several bottles of Chevron Techron through your gas tank, if this does not help, have injectors professionally cleaned (running pressurized cleaning solution into the fuel rail).

    I would also try another brand of gas, possibly higher octane to see if there is a difference.
  • neiswangerneiswanger Member Posts: 3
    If you had the same problem that I did(a clunk in drive line during accel and stop), than I may be able to help. After fighting with the chevy service center that it was not just the sound of slop built into the drive shaft for the 4X4, they finally took a close look it and drove it. What they came up with, was a worn yoke on the drive shaft, between the trans. and rear differential. I believe it was the rear yoke, but it has been 4 years since I had the problem. the part number of the yoke the yoke they put in is 12477702.

    I hope I helped out
  • shiftlessshiftless Member Posts: 40
    If you live in a Northern climate, the Winter gas formulation does exactly what you described.
    Ed
  • warmanwarman Member Posts: 3
    I took truck to dealer...they couldn't find anything positively wrong. Thought it was intake gasket and would be very expensive to change. Offered to install "sealent pellets" approved by GM. Well, leak has stopped and seams to be ok.....so far!
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    Neiswanger,
    Thanks for the reply. I went through the u-joints and the slip joint at the carrier bearing and everything was looking good, that was my first thought also. I have done a little more research since my last post and found a possible reason for the (knunk) problem . So, if there are others out there struggling with this issue here is what I found. There are two torsion bars, one on each side of the frame going from the front end to mid frame. They are supported by a cross member and are held in place with a large rubber bushing. They each have an adjustment so that you can raise or lower the front end. The clunk happens at arbitrary times under torque. It might be that the bushings are worn. If thats the case it should be an easy fix. I will replace the bushings and let you know the results.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    WOAH !!!!!!!!! Watch out for those torsion bar
    rubbers. The bars are under great torque to hold up
    the front end. Removing the bars to install new
    rubbers involves some work !
    NOT a driveway mechanic job.............

    You don't happen to have the 2 piece driveshaft?

    Also you could be hearing is "axle wrap" which makes
    the spring ends bang or clank at times.

    Both these driveline issues have been addressed at
    a few GM truck sites...................
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    geo9,
    Ok, I have pulled hard on the reins. Is this then a job for the service garage? Yes, I have the 2 piece drive shaft. Is that significant? From all that I have seen, I doubt that it's "axle wrap". Could you direct me to the GM truck sites?
    Thanks
  • andeande Member Posts: 3
    You see now I'm really confused I had the shop re-install my stock system (free of charge thank god!) and now the problem's dissapeared. So I am afraid to put the aftermarket one back in and not have a gauge. Did you ever have your's fixed or how do you run w/o it?
    THX
    Andrea
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Read this quick before the hosts pull it !

    http://www.fullsizechevy.com
    http://www.pickuptruck.com
    http://www.gm-trucks.com

    2 piece driveshaft ? MANY problems posted on that one!
    Is your truck a 2wd?
    A search on those forums will suprise you! :cry:
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    The gauge acts up intermittently, usually after a fill up. It will show empty and the message light will come on. After awhile it will jump to full, sometimes back and forth. It will usually settle down after 40 to 60 miles and stay pretty stable. I always reset the trip meter after each fill up. This problem started approximately 1.5 years after my stereo install.
  • gdanegdane Member Posts: 2
    New data.. When the weather in the North East got warmer the problem is less pronounced and as soon as the transmission temperature gage moves off of the 100 degrees mark the problem goes away.
  • gtarman68gtarman68 Member Posts: 4
    I had a problem like this, I replaced the Battery Cables, The fuse link was toast in the Hot Cable.. A couple hundred bucks @ the Dealership for the cables, You can't get 'em @ Advance...
  • gtarman68gtarman68 Member Posts: 4
    Check your vaccum lines under the hood, Could be dry rotted, or off. It works off of vaccum to change to defrost or floor or dash...I would start here.. Good Luck
  • gtarman68gtarman68 Member Posts: 4
    WHen this happens does your SpeedOmeter work? If A/T see if your gear indicator is lit. I had a problem like this, My engine would stall out completely. It wound up being the Ignition switch on the column.. (not where you put the key)..Good Luck!
  • gtarman68gtarman68 Member Posts: 4
    If the "Clunking" is in the rear, Have you serviced the rear differential? If so, Did you put the additive in w/ the oil?. I had to do this,(4WD) Then you have to find a parking lot and do a few donuts to the r, and to the l, to get it in the limited slip assy good... Also, Drop the drive shaft and use white lithium grease on the splines.. Good Luck..!! BTW, You
    can get in trouble doing donuts in the wrong parking lot..lol
  • ap511ap511 Member Posts: 1
    03 3500
    are the brakes on all 03 3500 spongy? or do i have a problem?
    The dealer sad that thy are fine.
  • jcr2jcr2 Member Posts: 3
    Your problem does not relate in any way to the stereo install. It is purely coincidental. You are using gasoline with higher than average sulphur content and the fuel sensor contacts are hazing over. Use a fuel cleaner such as Chevron techroline . This will clear up your problem.
  • indian3indian3 Member Posts: 14
    Anybody have any problems with their speedo? Mine seems to stick or something. I can come to a complete stop and still watch the speedo go down to zero while I am sitting there.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    I note a LOT of 03-04 GM cluster failures on several
    GM boards. Is yours still under warranty?

    Another 3rd world quality part gone bad............. :cry:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Good part about it is that you can upgrade to a Denali or Escalade cluster......
  • rdc1500rdc1500 Member Posts: 4
    I recently purchased this truck and it runs great. I'm having trouble with brake fluid leaking around the master cylinder and combination valve area. It appears I need to replace the gasket under the Master Cylinder cap. I also think there is a leak at the threads on the plastic connector that sits in the combination valve. I'd normally call this the proportioning valve, but the manual states its a combination valve. This connector accepts a wire connection from the same harness that connects to the Control module (ABS). Does anyone know what this component is called? I figure its either a brake fluid pressure relay/sensor or perhaps a control valve for the ABS functionality. Hopefully something like this can be purchased new.

    Thanks =)
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    Thanks again for the helpful info. The drive line is in good shape, no issues there yet but I'll keep an eye on it. I did check out the chevy truck sights. :) Some good stuff there, I saved some of the literature for future reference. I also solved the klunk. Once I got a little deeper into the torsion bar issue. It was obvious that was not the problem although I did some minor adjustments there. What I did do was replaced the cross member at the transfer case. I do use my truck and have dinged that piece numerous times, it's a serious design flaw as far as I'm concerned, it was not thought out well. It hangs on everything. Have been planing on replacing it so while I had it in the air I did a switch. Well, low and behold, no more klunk. I cannot offer a valid reason why other than maybe there was an alignment problem with the drive line. Everything else looks good.
  • rdc1500rdc1500 Member Posts: 4
    looks like this part is a Pressure differential valve which is sold together with the Combination Valve (~$239.00 dealership, $20.00 local salvage yard)
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