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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • speedwayjmspeedwayjm Member Posts: 1
    mine Z71 is identical and doing the same i thought it might be low on front or back fluid speedwayjm
  • chstr1000chstr1000 Member Posts: 32
    I have a 02' silverado 4x4 ext. cab. I know there are alot of discussion on the sagging front end, but just want some feedback on my particular truck. Today sitting in my garage where it is perfectly level I measured from the ground to the top of the fenders. I know the frame is proper place to measure I was just messing around, will get more accurate when I have time. The left front is 34.5", right front is 36", left rear is 37.25", right rear is 38". I jacked up the left front to 36" to equal the right side which in turned leveled both rear sides. So the front was 36 and the rear was around 38. I'm planning on adjusting the left torsion up 1.5 inches. I am just wanting to make this is what probably should be done.

    Also, my turn signal lever is very loose. Everything still works on it but am wanting to get it fixed naturally. How hard is it to remove the steering column housing in order to put in a new lever?

    One more thing. How many grease fittings are on this truck. I do my own services and don't want to miss any.
    Thanks for any feedback, answers, or suggestions.

    David
  • fishingiscoolfishingiscool Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 1500 silerado Z71. And when i floor it from a stop it is very slow to accelerate. Like its lost alot of HP. But in the 2500-5500 rpm range the truck seems like it has plenty of power.Anyone know what the problem could be?????
  • indian3indian3 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for the info and the replacement idea.
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    There are 11 grease fittings on your truck.
  • alextaaalextaa Member Posts: 2
    I am an auto broker with a client looking for a preowned 2000-2003 Silverado or Sierra 1500 with a 3.73 rear axle. Is there a way to tell by the VIN or other means which axle ratio a particular truck has other than having the original window sticker? As I am looking at particular examples, I need to know how to tell or how to instruct a seller to tell me if it is indeed a 3.73 unit or not. Thanks!
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    David;
    Try this link for your zerk fittings.

    http://gm-trucks.com/home/content/view/123/25/

    -David
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Inside the glove compartment is a sticker with the vehicle RPO codes. The code for the 3.73 axle is GT4. The one for the 4.10 axle is GT5, and the one for the 3.42 ratio is GU6.
  • littlebittylittlebitty Member Posts: 1
    :cry: My husband has a 1997 silverado 2500 and is to damn proud to ask anyone where the fuse box is. He was messing with the trailer brake controller and found out he doesnt have any blinkers or running lights on the truck now. Some one please help me. He thinks it is the fuses but he cant find the fuse box. Instead of asking some one he is just letting his truck sit and is taking my car to work. PLEASE HELP tell me where the damn fuse box is.???
  • rhoymerhoyme Member Posts: 10
    I posted this message on the "Prices paid" bulletin board a few days ago, with no response. I went to my local Chevy dealer, and found an '06 Crew Cab 1500 with the 4.8 engine, sticker price at just a few dollars over $30,000. I went to the Edmunds pricing page, and the invoice for this truck is almost right at $27,500. Less the $2,500 rebate, the invoice price then comes to $25,000. The sales manager said "we can't give these trucks away" and proceeded to explain to me with the new lower MSRP prices, that the invoice pricing from Edmunds is wrong. His "best price" is the $27,500 ($30,000 sticker less the $2,500 rebate). Am I incorrect in thinking that I could get this truck at invoice? Thanks for any assistance. :)
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    rhoyme;
    It appears from the above that you are getting the Edmunds invoice price, which is not a bad deal. And it wouldn't be surprising that the rebate only applies to the sticker price, but don't complicate matters by even considering sticker. Try this. Get a phone book and call all the dealerships in your area and ask for the fleet or sales manager. Ask, "Will you sell me a truck based on the invoice price"? Most if not all will. The way the market is now you should be able to find a dealer who will give you a deal better than sticker-minus-rebate. If the answer to the above question is yes, your next question is, "How much"? You'll hear prices as high as $1500 above, and I've heard of prices as low as $1500 below. When you find something appealing ask for a printout of the truck you want, exactly the way you want it equipped showing the invoice price, and compare it with Edmund's. When you're comfortable with a deal make it clear you won't accept any other charges other than tax, registration and license.

    -David

    -BTW...I heard on the news yesterday that if Delphi goes belly-up, GM's house of cards may also collapse; No parts, no cars.
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    Dealing with the internet sales at a dealership is the way to go. It makes the purchase of a vehicle so much easier. As noobie1 said, start with the invoice price. They will probably take $300 to $500 over invoice. Then the rebates and other incentives are deducted. You do however pay tax on the price before the rebates are deducted. Good luck and remember you are in the drivers seat, you have the cash. They need you more than you need them.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I need a new drivers side foglamp for my 2003 Suburban. (I assume its the same as in the Rado.)
    I was wondering if anyone knew where you can pick up a single unit cheap. I would be happy to by aftermarket as long as it fits in the mount in the bumper, and has the same electrical connector. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Catam.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    catam; Try Ebay.

    BTW - In case you don't know, the bulb can be replaced if that's all that's wrong with it.

    -David
  • cheesy1cheesy1 Member Posts: 1
    Have an 03 GMC Z71 that did the same thing. Under warranty they repaired it as a 'passenger side door control module' or some similar term. Said it would have been a $150 repair.
  • murrinmurrin Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a new crew cab with a sticker of 26455.00 and edmans said the invoice was 24198.00. And that is the invoice price minus the local and national advertisement fee the dealer pays to chevy. The sale price was 24910.28 I know this is the true price becauce my cousin is the GM of the dealership. After that price you remove all of your incentives.
  • mattbilodeaumattbilodeau Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Silverado Z71 Ext. Recently the steering has started to feel weird when I turn the truck sometimes. It is hard to describe but feels like a slight grinding when I turn the wheel. It isn't that bad yet, but it seems like it will get worse until something fails...? I have read about issues with the grease in the shaft needing replacement due to a clunking noise, but this is more of a
    vibrations feeling when turning, not clunking...

    Thanks for any help I can get
    Matt
  • lockha885lockha885 Member Posts: 5
    Hi all,
    New to the board but need some info ASAP.
    Just bought a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500, Nice Truck too.
    The front has four lights not counting the signal lights.
    The bottom of the set of lights has two lights and the ones on the outside don't work and have about 1/8th inch of water laying in the lightbulb holders, for the lack of the technical name.
    Anyway, I need to know how to get the bulb out and the whole assembly out to be able to drill a small hole in the bottom of the assembly to allow the water to drain out.
    Really looks bad, has lots of condensation, and the water line shows too.
    Can anyone give me an idea about how to take this apart?
    We didn't get any Owners Manuels with the truck, so can't refer to it, just yet, the dealership has ordered us one and it is in shipment or soon will be, but we want to solve this problem ASAP.
    This seems to be the best site so far, to be able to ask and read alot of questions about our wonderful Chevys.
    Thanks all who read and respond, I do appreciate it.
  • lockha885lockha885 Member Posts: 5
    Hello all,
    My DH found out how to remove the lights and replace the bulbs, now if we could just figure out why they won't work it would be really nice.
    These are parking lights on the lower light bar. Outside lights near the Amber lights.
    Wonder why they won't work? Does anyone have any ideas?
    :confuse:
  • jogojogo Member Posts: 3
    Is there a place I can find splash/mud guards to protect the rotors from rusting? Where might that be?
  • rdc1500rdc1500 Member Posts: 4
    I need to replace the right rear metal brake line which leads across the rear axle from the coupler/splitter (mounted on the differential housing) to the right rear brake cylinder. This brake line has a wire coiled around it along the entire length of it. The local crown dealership says they dont sell it. I'm pretty sure I can get it at local junk yard, but I'm wondering if I should/can replace the left and right at the same time with new parts. I've already replaced the rear center rubber brake hose with a new Trustop replacement part from Napa.

    Any additional ideas?
  • lockha885lockha885 Member Posts: 5
    We just found out that these lights are "running lights" that only come on when the truck is running and the lights are off. :)
    Isn't it amazing what you can learn when you aren't trying? LOL :surprise:
    Anyway, now we are looking for some lug nuts
    Socket Lug, 14mm 1.5 RH/T
    These are Tuner lug nuts, or so I have found out, with a Star Pattern on the top as they are round and have only this open end to remove them.
    Does anyone know where I may purchase any of these lug nuts? :confuse: :confuse:
    I have tried online and so far nothing. :confuse:
    I don't think they have stopped making them, but if we can't find any we will have to replace all 32 nuts and that may be an expense we aren't ready to go for.
    So anyone out there, do you know anything about these nuts and where I can find any?????
    Thanks all who read and reply.
  • toughboy62toughboy62 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 with an odd a/c problem.
    During the spring here in GA we have cold mornings very warm afternnons. Here is my problem, if I turn on my heat in the morning, I cannot get the a/c to come during the afternoon. I have noticed if I wait until the cab temp drops below 60 degrees farenheit(usually overnight) the a/c will work fine. However, if I turn the temp adjust even slightly toward warm, then heat overrides the a/c and the heat is on again until cabin temp drops. I would appre-ciate any insight here.
  • lshaw1lshaw1 Member Posts: 1
    350 engine, will not crank up but the engine is turning, replace distributor and modular, can not find the problem
  • bennyjbennyj Member Posts: 1
    I just changed the oil in my 03 Silverado. I usually have it changed by the dealer or some other store but this time I changed it myself. The change oil light on my dash board came on prior to my changing, it was the first time this has happened. Anyway the light comes on telling me to change the oil immediately after starting. How do I get this to go away?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Read your owner's manual.
  • mstafformstaffor Member Posts: 4
    Did you get any help with this? I have a 93 GMC truck with a 5.7 liter (350 CID) engine with a similar problem. I have even replaced the engine (blown head gasket and cracked head) recently with a new engine from Chevy and still have the same problem. I installed a new :throttle body; distributor; cap; rotor; wires; plugs; even the coil and it still idles rough. The vacuum at idle is 18-1/2 to 19 inches here at sea level. The longer it idles the worse it gets. It isn't really bad but rough and it will miss about every 20 seconds at idle. Off idle and running it is fine. Oh, I even changed the O2 sensor. At this point I suspect the MAP or computer that controls the fuel system.
  • mstafformstaffor Member Posts: 4
    I have a 93 GMC truck with a 5.7 liter (350 CID) engine, throttle body fuel injector with a rough idle. I have even replaced the engine (blown head gasket and cracked head) recently with a new engine from Chevy and still have the same problem. I installed a new :throttle body; distributor; cap; rotor; wires; plugs; even the coil and it still idles rough. The vacuum at idle is 18-1/2 to 19 inches here at sea level. The longer it idles the worse it gets. It isn't really bad but rough and it will miss about every 20 seconds at idle. Off idle it runs fine. Oh, I even changed the O2 sensor. At this point I suspect the MAP or computer that controls the fuel system.

    Any ideas?
  • lockha885lockha885 Member Posts: 5
    :) Hello all, again.
    :confuse: Would anyone out there have a knowledge of links to sites to buy Lug Nuts?
    :confuse: I have a 2000 Chevy 2500 4x4 with a rare type of lug nuts on it and one of them is missing, and I would really like to keep these on it, ;) I like the look they give the wheels.
    These are an 8-point Star lug nut, open end, and I have looked online until I am almost cross eyed and can't seem to find them anywhere. :blush:
    I have looked on Ebay, with one store owner going to try to buy them when they order again from a manufacturer.
    So anyone out there who has any links they can either send to me on my email or just post here, I would certainly appreciate it immensely.
    Thanks a lot!
  • lockha885lockha885 Member Posts: 5
    Have you figured out your problem yet? If not I may have a solution.
    A friend of mine had a Chevy Van, that did the very same thing, for a while. His older son told him it was the ignition switch, the owner said, "no way, that wouldn't cause the thing to just die on the road," but when he finally broke down in the middle of New Orleans he replaced the switch and never had the problem again.
    Just a suggestion, don't know if it is your answer or not, but worth checking into if you haven't fixed it yet.
  • yateyate Member Posts: 2
    On my 05 the hour meter went to zero. The dealer replaced but they do not know why it did what it did. The mechs know nothing about the electronics.
    Welcome to the disposable throw away truck.
  • unorocksunorocks Member Posts: 1
    I have the same truck and am having the same problem. Took it to the dealership and for $80 all they could tell me is that their computer said it checked out. Didn't exactly set my mind at ease. No the lights on the dash that tell you if you are in 2wd or 4wd sometimes are on and sometimes go out. Very frustrating. Somebody out there knows what's going on...
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Guys...........MANY problems with these 04/05 units posted
    on several GM truck sites. All requiring replacement of
    entire unit ! So you are not alone. A little searching
    about the net will clue you in.
    The dealer playing dumb can sure piss you off eh?
    A few print outs of others problems and INSISTING "nicely"
    of course to mr. dealer and they should replace these
    units............
    No TSBs that I can find either......Good luck !!!!!!!!!

    More "quality" 3rd world parts in our trucks!!!! :sick:
  • bowtiegrrlbowtiegrrl Member Posts: 1
    I'm not sure if the is is the right spot, so please bare with me and well I apologize for any inconviences I may cause.

    New to the site, couldn't really find anything what I was kinda hoping for.

    I have a 2WD 2001 Silverado 2500HD.

    Every now and then when I come to a stop, and then take off again... i'll get this clunk. It seems like the rear end, but does seem like a rear end problem and if so why? I only get it when I press hard on the brakes, and then take off from a complete start. Any idea's, cuz it never seems to happen 'round my mechanic.

    Also, it whines.... people said it's normal, a bud of mine has a truck similar to mine and his does it too... is it really normal to hear this whine while in motion?

    Thanks for any help.... :cry:
  • merrithewmerrithew Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Silverado 4WD that had the similar problems. I lost the transfer case speed encoder computer board ($1500 dealer item with labor) all of the sudden. Then I had problems with the push button 4WD switch. Another dealer had me replace the 4WD selector switches ($80 parts/labor) because there were documented cases of faulty switches that create dead shorts and kill the... encoder board. So... get your switchs replaced before you shift to 4WD and all of the lights blink and then go out for good.
  • merrithewmerrithew Member Posts: 2
    I've got the same issue on my 2000 Silverado 4WD (93,000 miles). The best I can tell is the noise is in the rear end ring and pinion set. I'm still trying to solve my issue too.

    I've had the universal joints replaced and installed a new slip yolk. So my drive shaft is more or less new. I also hear the noise when I go over a pothole or dirt road and the rear end hops a bit.

    I'm looking for answers too!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Was that slip "yolk" yellow and mushy? :P

    Just kidding, I may have to replace my slip yoke at some point in the future.
  • stdtjv13stdtjv13 Member Posts: 1
    i have an 04 silverado 1500 ext cab, and every once in a while the tachometer gets stuck on 6000 rpms, just the tach, not the transmission or anything, is that just some sort of a short or something or what because after a day or so it goes back down to normal, its annoying.
  • tritongal26tritongal26 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x4 4.8, well my husband does, but shhh. I am trying to surprise him for his birthday and I am getting matching shifter knobs made for his shifter and his transfer case. The guy who is making them knows the size of the threads for the shifter but the transfer case shifter knob doesnt't just unsrew so I take it off and go have it measured. I have tried to find it in our Chilton's and I have called a couple of dealerships who's main mechanics gave me the I have no idea what you're talking about speech. If anyone knows what the thread size is or knows someway to find that information, that would be really great. Thank you so much.
  • buttsterbuttster Member Posts: 3
    This Allison has a problem, "DOWN SHIFTING" under load, in "TOW MODE", to maintain the torque power band. It will go under 2000RPM before shifting. Has any one else found this and if so what was your cure, other than "MANUAL" shifting down?
  • tburns6tburns6 Member Posts: 1
    i have a silverado 1500 with power door and window issues. windows will open sometimes, on both sides and not other times, same with doors. i used to be able to open and close driver door to make it work but not anymore...

    locks are out on both sides but not always. also, my low coolant light and 4wheel drive lights come on even though they have both been fixed or were okay in first place. any thoughts?
  • 19771977 Member Posts: 5
    Problems with fuel gauge erratic readings. Most mornings after approx 10 minutes gauge is correct but will re-occur after sitting still for 15-20 minutes. From previous posts and other gathered info suspect in-tank sending unit requires replacement. Looking for instructions for dropping tank and all other procedures to complete this repair. Any ideas on cost of sending unit-thanks.
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    Had the same problem for several months and was distessed. Went through the u-joints, checked rear end, axle wrap and so on. Talked to a lot of people about it and could not find a solution from dealerships to drive-tain shops. I even considered buying a new Dodge ( I know, what was I thinking). Did some checking and adjusted torsion bars so both side were the same and the ride was level, that was a bit out of line. Since I had slammed the crossmember that supports the trans. a few times I also replaced that. Klunk dissappeared. What can I say? Istill do not know what the problem truly was. All I can say is that it was probably an alignment issue. Good Luck
  • jmg122702jmg122702 Member Posts: 1
    A couple of days ago, I hit a fire hydrant. The damage was to the passengers front fender, but now my electric drivers window won't roll up, my radio dash lights went out. Could the accident have caused this?
    Prior to the accident, my gas gauge went all stupid! It sets on empty and the low fuel light is on all the time.
    Can anyone help me?
  • woody2795woody2795 Member Posts: 1
    timing off on 5.7 vortec 2001 silverado after intake repair marked dist cap and rotor. no leaks. drags when trying to start always have bit when starts runs rough?
  • sxvipersxviper Member Posts: 10
    Yes mine also failed on my 04..well out of warranty so dealer said best they could do was cover 30%. Now I'm working on my latest issue of the "check engine" light being on with a rough idle..DIA code of "random misfiring of cylinders" :mad:
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Your misfire is from one or more of your coil packs going out. Had to replace four of them on my 01 silverado a few years ago. Cost is about$80 thru the deal, couldnt find them any place else back then might have them now at autozone etc. Fixed the problem right up for me!
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    I own a 2002 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3 V8 with 45,000 miles and have noticed the following problems within the last couple of months. I was hoping that someone familiar with these issues or have had the same problems might be able to assist. They are:
    1. Low Coolant light comes on. When checking the reservoir, it only appears to be down about 1/2". I purchased a gallon of the pre-mixed Dex Cool to use to top off, but still can't figure out if there is a leak, or if it something worse.
    2. Low Washer Fluid. I believe I might have a leak in one of the seams of the white plastic bottle. When I got underneath the truck, the bottom of the bottle was wet, but I couldn't pinpoint a leak.
    3. Gear Indicator. When the truck is warmed up (usually after I have been driving it for about 1/2 hour, and shift from drive to reverse, the gear indicator on the dash will sometimes remain in drive, then move to reverse. When I shift to Park, the gear indicator will either show the vehicle as being in "R", or sometimes moves to "Drive". Although the vehicle is actually in Park, the gear indicator showing as being in another gear will not allow the doors to unlock automatically as it's supposed to do when it is put in Park.
    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
  • dagoreddagored Member Posts: 13
    I had a sticky throttle also. had it replaced by my local mechanic. $80. now it is sticking again. what a pain. :(
  • sxvipersxviper Member Posts: 10
    Thats what I thought..coil packs are fine though, I was told it was intake manifold which is now also ruled out and now they are saying bad cam shaft :mad:
This discussion has been closed.