Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

12425272930

Comments

  • jerrybaultjerrybault Member Posts: 5
    I had a similar problem with my 2000 silverado at about 230,000 miles.
    when my buddy rebuilt the tranny for me he noted that the transfer case was slightly low and that it looked like the vent tube had been burping some. he then measured the circumference of my tires an saw that there was about a 3/4 in difference between the front and back tires( i had not rotated them in a while and the backs had wore down more). he informed me that the different rotation rates of the tires would cause the the transfer case to slip some to account for the different wheel speeds. this causes the transfer case fluid to heat up and vent out the overflow tube. told me I needed to get new tires before i tried to drive it from Mich to NY.
    I have not seen the leak since the new tire went on and I am just getting ready to turn over 250,000 miles.
    this truck has been verrry good to me!!!!!
    jerry :shades:
  • jerrybaultjerrybault Member Posts: 5
    I just lost one of mine, about 20K miles (@230,000 miles)ago I noticed that after driving at highway speeds for about 2 hours or so (I drive a lot for work) some of the plastic nuts caps would be loose, tightening them would help for a while but they would still work loose. now most all of the plastic threads are worn away. so I am starting to look for new ones

    Jerry :)
  • ddf1ddf1 Member Posts: 18
    Did you try the Silicone trick?
  • jerrybaultjerrybault Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 silverado 2500 4WD extended cab long bed
    It has been a great vehicle from me. It less than 500 miles from turning over 250,000 miles. Mostly highway and more than half of those miles with northern lite camper on the back. Still on the original exhaust system (kind of blows me away).
    the minor problem is that the "in the mirror" compass and temp gauge will sometimes blink off for a few seconds then turn back on all the letter segments then start working correctly. but it only seems to do this while the intermittent windshield wipers are operating. Once the wipers sweep across the to the passenger side and start back the compass/temp gauge blink off. this is not a major problem just an annoyance. makes me wonder what else is about to fail.
    anyone seen this one before?

    The major problem is that I have been experiencing a drop in engine rpms sometimes when I switch from reverse to forward or from forward to reverse. sometimes the engine stalls, but restarts right up. it seems to happen more often when the engine is cold but is not limited to a cold engine.
    Related to this but maybe not the same problem is that two days ago while in the highway at 70mph and climbing a long hill the transmission down shifted to 3rd and seem to lose power and lugg. At the top of the hill if seemed to regain full power and was fine up the next hill. but on the third hill it repeated the same problems. I was able to pull over in a rest area where it stalled out completely and would not start up and run at all for about 20 minutes. no idiot lights or warning ever came on. It then would start but was very rough running and would not rev higher than 1000 RPM. I let it sit for a while while I checked the plug wires, smelled the tranny fluid and the oil and unplugged and reseated as many connectors under the hood as I could find, (thinking that I may have an intermittent connection somewhere). The tranny fluid and oil did not smell burnt so I do not think it was overheating in the engine or transmission. After about a 25 minute rest it start right up and seems to run fine I kept the speed at or under 55 from then on and have not had a repeat. outside temp was 71 f. so not real hot day.

    at this point this old truck does not owe me anything but the body, frame and transmission are in great shape engine burns a little oil and has a pronounced piston slap when cold, but I still want to keep her running and try for 500,000.

    does any one have any ideas as to what is up with this ?

    thank Jerry :confuse:
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    First off let me apologize for not having any ideas for the more serious sounding issues you've experienced.

    As to the minor issue of the in mirror compass / temp guage acting up, I'm not certain about this because you have sort of tied your truck's misbehavior to the operation of the windshield wipers, but it surely can't hurt to check. My 2004 had intermittent problems with the same situation but not limited to during windshield wiper operation. Turns out that the connector on the back of the mirror that the wiring harness goes to isn't all that snug fitting, and I had worked it a bit out when using some sunshades over the dash. Just minor vibrations going down the road was causing the problem. Once I realized what the issue was and reseated the plug, everything was fine again.

    Oh, congrats on making the 250k+ mark. And I hope you do make the 500k mark. These trucks may have some issues from time to time, but overall they're fairly reliable beasts. :)
  • rickarrickar Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 that has a couple of electrical issues. On the drivers side door, the door lock and power window buttons work intermittently. There seems to be no rhyme or reason behind the intermittent behavior. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. I've seen where others have asked similar questions, but I haven't seen any answers yet. Has anyone seen this and been able to fix it?

    Also, I have the erratic fuel gage as well. What's weird is that when it's not registering correctly, all I have to do is take it from Drive to Park, and it will register correctly... for a while. Any thoughts or ideas? I've caught wind of a potential grounding problem. Does anyone had any insight on that?
  • citygirl70citygirl70 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, Not sure if you found a climate control panel yet, but I bought mine on Ebay and the seller has one more. I paid 75.00 plus shipping 8.00 and he warranties it a year. Good Luck, Brandie :)
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    RIC.........Since the other doors controls work correctly
    I would check the exposed wiring loom in the door jamb
    then pull off the door panel.
    Prob. a pinched or frayed wire somewhere
  • phoenix7phoenix7 Member Posts: 3
    I thought my chevy was the only truck that was making that horrible knock!! that website sure has the same knock that mine has too!!
  • phoenix7phoenix7 Member Posts: 3
    Can N E 1 help me please!!

    I have a 2001 chevy silverado 1500, 5.3 v8. And for the last weeks, i have been driving with my "service engine soon" light on. I had borrowed one of my colleage's diagnostic scanner to pin point the problem and this is what it said: P1415 - air system bank 1 and P1509 - IAC system high RPM. Could any one tell me what the heck does this mean??? I talked to and couple of people and they said it could be my O2 sensor and or the idle air control unit.... Please help me answer my questions, your technical experience would likely be appreciated, thanks!!!!!
  • phoenix7phoenix7 Member Posts: 3
    hey, i have a 01 silverado, 5.3 v8, and had a similar problem like yours. and you know what it was?, it was my hub on the passenger side. Hub: is the central part of the wheel that has six studs for your wheel/tire. take off both your front tires and check both your hub. Jerk the hub back and forth and rock them side to side. If the hub rock or is loose, you have a bad hub that is acting up with your ABS sensor that is why when at low speed like 3-5 mph you have some brake failure (along with the ABS-like feel). REplace the hub and you will be fine. I paid $150 for mine. I hope it is useful for you...
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    If any of you guys even suspect a hub/ABS problem
    call the Chevy 800# and have your VIN# handy.

    You may be in line for the FREE recall even tho
    you haven't been notified yet !

    NOTE: That GM will also give you any recalls that
    your truck needs and were never done or you were
    not notified of......................
  • boatcaptain1boatcaptain1 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 99 Silverado, 4x4,Z71 with 85K....makes a snapping/ticking noise as I start to drive. This is coming from (sounds like it anyway), the driver side rear wheel area. It almost sounds like an electrical charge or zapping.
    Had the wheel off, but do not see anything out of norm.
    Any ideas before callling in the dealer?
  • kclaxtonkclaxton Member Posts: 1
    automatic tranmission will not shift out of low gear untill it warms up in the morning
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Sounds like a worn u-joint in the driveline.........
  • bwarner2bwarner2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with the Brake lights on my 99 silverado The Third brake works on right side only both back one do not when i hit the brake when the lights are on my driver side tail light comes on but pass one does not..I have replaced all bulbs ,Check for voltage from the wir box under tailgate and have no voltage all fuses are good and tone out good anyone have any help on this???? :mad: I have a switch right by the brake pedel can this be bad??Thanks for any help on this matter
  • gtsfirefightergtsfirefighter Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2002 Silverado Ext-cab with 4.8L and 130,000 miles. The oil pressure gauge is very erratic at idle but the needle straightens up as soon as you put on the gas. Does anyone else have or have had this problem? It's mostly just a nuisance but wondering if the oil sending unit is going bad. Otherwise this truck is awesome. It gets descent gas mileage (20-22 hwy mpg with K & N filter) and after new shocks and tires, feels like it did when I bought it. Oh, anyone else have problems with the tweeters falling out of their mounts in the doors?
  • archer7archer7 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Silverado also has an eratic fuel guage. One dealership told me that it was the additives eating away at the computer card in the fuel tank. Has anyone found a TSB on this? I was also told that you can now purchase just the card.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    That's always been my first sign of low trans fluid.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • jerrybaultjerrybault Member Posts: 5
    Yup I put it on the three hubcaps I have left

    thanks
  • jerrybaultjerrybault Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the responce! I will take a look at the mirror connector, I'm also wondering if the mirror wiring harness goes near the wiper arms and is being jostled. Or maybe share a ground return with the wiper motors that is loose.

    on the major problem I did find out that the fuel pump was on its way out, it failed completely and left me stranded on the road. I got that replaced but I am still experiencing the inconsistant idle when switching gears. so I am betting that one if the engine sensors is out of commission intermittantly. I just don't know how to figure out which one it is.

    :shades:

    jerry
  • mitchmmitchm Member Posts: 1
    my 98 silverado with 190000 miles after a few other problems starting blowing a whole bunch of black smoke, and running really rough. Thought maybe a head gasket, with that many miles I just decided to put in a new long block. I noticed when taking the old one out, there was alot of oil residue in the intake manifold, now with the new block in it is still running exactly the same. Any ideas? I checked the PCV valve and the oxygen sensor
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Sounds like a clogged or bad EGR valve and/or a
    new PCV valve
  • hartleadmhartleadm Member Posts: 1
    I have a serious problem

    Ok, well my heat and Ac works good temperature wise, my vent is on defrost and wont go to floor or vents, i checked the control box its ok, i checked the actuator up inside the dash passenger side, you have to dam near take the whole dash off to see it its way up there crappy location! its works and moves, now when i got this truck is had been trough alot of mud I coul dtell, is it possible its something underneath the truck thats causing this to default? THANKS GUYS!
    ADAM
  • dcarter3dcarter3 Member Posts: 3
    My AC is cold but not blowing out of the vents as it should be. Blower motor was recently replaced and working. I had it checked and was told the doors to the vents was open and could be a switch ??? under the dash that could be replaced without taking the dash off. What is the part they are talking about and could it be something else ? The control panel appears to be okay.
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Member Posts: 7
    decarter3,
    Here's a probable solution to your dilemma with the blower. Check your owners manual first and get oriented. You have an interior cab filter under the dash on the passenger side. They get plugged up pretty fast if your off the asphalt much. They get plugged up anyway! Your blower is probably just fine but it can't push air that it does not have. When you install them make sure that they are in correctly. The filter should have an arrow showing air flow. Good luck. This is a much less expensive solution.
    chevyfool
  • dcarter3dcarter3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks .. Chevyfool.. I looked in my manual , but did not see a reference for a cab filter. Would it be beside the blower motor housing or on top under the dash. I don't recall it ever being replaced.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Remember 03 and up have NO filter!!!!!!!!!!

    For pics and tips on 99-02s:
    http://gm-trucks.com/home/content/view/142/25/
  • dcarter3dcarter3 Member Posts: 3
    Mine is a 1997 1500 , 5.7. I was told there is not a cabin filter on a 97. Mechanic said a switch under the middle of dash controls the doors for air flow thru vent. Blower motor, compressor etc new. I was trying to make sure it could not be something else . Thanks for replies.
  • chevyboy2006chevyboy2006 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 z71 extended cab. I made a mistake and took all of the plug wires off of it. I have no idea how to put them back on right. HELP! :sick:
  • mbsimondsmbsimonds Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 4.3L v6 silverado 4x4 w/93,000 miles.

    Problem:
    When it is even slightly cool or wet outside it doesn't want to start. It turns over and after about 10 minutes of cranking it, it finally starts. I also noticed a whining sound when cranking it. :confuse:

    Once its running, there is hesitation for the first 5 minutes of driving. I had the hesitation problem before the not wanting to start problem began.

    If it has been running and is shut off, it will start right back up no problem.

    I have changed the plugs,wires,rotor, and cap. I have also changed the fuel filter.

    Anyone that might have any ideas as to the problem or if you have experienced the same thing, please let me know.
  • matman98matman98 Member Posts: 3
    Had same problem and have found the solution!!!! The two strips of rubber that go up the sides of the windshield are what the problem is. Glue them down to the windshield with a rubber cement or equivilent adhesive and the problem will go away.

    Good Luck....
    Doug ;)
  • chrisarachrisara Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 4.8 and the truck idles so low that it stalls. When I give it gas its fine. No codes cleaned the MAF sensor. could it be a vacuum leak or an EGR valve?
  • wiffetwiffet Member Posts: 3
    ...Hi folks.Havent seen or heard of this anywhere yet-neither has the dealer.I have a 2005 Silverado 2WD long bed.I purchased it July,2005.in March of this year I started hearing a 'creaking/groaning'of metal noise coming from behind and below driver seat every time brakes were applied.It got progressively louder to the point of absolute frustration as I could not find a source.Finally took it to dealer,and they found that it was the crossbar under the cab towards the rear of it.They took it off,slopped on grease,and reinstalled.Said they had not heard of this yet and there was no bulletins on it.It stayed quiet for a month ,then started again.I called them again,and they were no help,saying bring it in-we'll do it again.I cant keep doing this every month.then it hit me that its all metal to metal-perhaps a "rubber gasket"???....I took some old bike tire inner tube,cut some strips,and reintslled between crossbar and the frame(this crossbar runs frome the left steel frame to the right-just bolted in-seems to serve NO purpouse)...well-it didnt help a bit-still greaks and groans......LOUD...would it be safe to remove this crossbar???-or do I have to wait for a recall-if it ever comes???....any input appreciated-I'm gettin' really ticked off.
  • davey69davey69 Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the exact same problem.I have a Silverado 2WD longbed I purchased in April 2005. I have had it into the dealership twice for "creaking when brakes applied" and then a squeek that gets progressively louder.It is driving me CRAZY and they have yet to correct the problem.I am taking it back to have the temporary fix and see if they may have any solution.Any additional input would be great and I will post if I learn anything else about this.
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    I'd just like to report that I've had my 2005 Silverado for exactly a year, have 11,000 miles on it, half of those miles towing 4000-6000lbs, and have had NO problems with it. No weird noises, nothing:)

    Half ton, LS, 5.3, extended cab.

    And I got 21mpg on the hwy doing 65mph on my last road trip (empty truck, not towing of course).
  • wiffetwiffet Member Posts: 3
    ....well-I would guess that the reason you dont hear what we are experiencing is because you dont have the model WE do...did you read the description.?
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    Yes, I read the description. My post was just to make a point that many/most of us have not had any problems. If I were visiting this forum as an outsider, I would think that Chevys are falling apart. But since this is where people come to about problems, well, just wanted to keep it in perspective.

    Glad I didn't buy a long bed:)
  • fireman133fireman133 Member Posts: 3
    just recently bought the truck. it has a rough idle all the time even when it is gear. but when you are driving it seems to smooth out. had it put on a computer and everthing seems to check out all right. just wondering if anyone has had any problems like this. i'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak somewhere but i can't seem to trace it down. any help would be appreciated. thanks
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Very good point sailboatguy. Lots of times people will read trouble posts and just assume that the problem in question is common for the vehicle line. For the record, my 2004 didn't have the problems listed either. The only problem I had with mine was a gurgling under the dash when the truck was cold that went away as it warmed up. Turned out to be a little air in the coolant system. Burping it took care of that issue.

    The only other time it needed to visit the dealership other than routine maintenance was to replace the tailgate cables. Overall a very pleasing ownership experience.

    BTW, nice mileage results! My best was 21.7, but my routine mileage averaged in the 19s. :P
  • rhwebbrhwebb Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 4.8L V8. It has 70K miles on it and runs great. Lately I have been experiencing a stall feeling from a complete stop to acceleration. Once I get going its fine, no problems with acceleration while driving. It only happens when I am at a complete stop and then accelerate to proceed. I thought it could be my fuel injectors so I got a cleaning additive and yet it still does it. I have very very little knowledge about the mechanical side of vehicles. Could this problem be from the fuel filter or could my fuel injectors be clogged for some reason.
  • bbuonobbuono Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 CK 1500 Z71. I have severe pulsing on the front end as I apply brakes - moderate, heavy weight, or above 30. I can really feel the brake pedal modulate. I had it to the Chevy dealer last month (I have 70K miles). He said front end is fine - replaced pads and did minor turn of discs. It has gotten Much worse - shake and shimmy time. This is second brake job in last 3 years. Is dealer off base and poor job or other ideas on cause?
  • kwbrownkwbrown Member Posts: 6
    I think your Disc Wheels definately need changing. Also it would be good if you could also Balance the wheels when you change your Disc Wheels. I had the same problem and this is what I did and the problem went away.
  • stellgarstellgar Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Silverado that always goes into air-conditioning mode when using the recirculate function even when the recirculating button is only button selected. Not a big deal but if anyone knows of a fix I would appreciate hearing of it.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    STEL..........Note the A/C compressor will always kick on
    when defrost or recirc. mode is selected to dehumidify the air.
    If thats your issue.............
    My 04 and 01 did the same thing.
  • rperraultrperrault Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Silverado with 20K miles. When going about 25 mph and hitting a bump in the road, I hear a clicking noise (metal on metal contact). However, when I compress the brakes, the noise goes away. The dealership has been no help at all. Anyone know what this is? Thanks
  • stellgarstellgar Member Posts: 3
    So if I understand you right then the recirculating air action will always be air-conditioned and cold no matter which vent combination is used or. I have two other vehicles that seem to only use recirculating and air-conditoning when both are selected in tandem.

    geo9.... thanks for the fast response
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Yes the air flow will be cold if the temp. selector is
    set to cold. If you slide it to hot it will be hot air
    coming out of the vents.
    The AC comp. should only kick in if the fan is on (but
    I should recheck my operation just in case).
    Otherwise air will always blow out of the vents if truck
    is moving. With these GM HVAC systems you can never
    really shut the air flow off.
    Remember the old GM "astro ventilation" from the late 60s
    early 70s? Always fresh air flowing thru the vehicle.
  • stellgarstellgar Member Posts: 3
    Just to make sure we are connecting on the same points. when you refere to cold air. that is to mean air-conditioner is on and that will remain so whether or not the air-conditioner button is pushed while using the recirculating feature.

    The reason this seams odd to me is because there are times when I find myself in a lot of dust or just bad air (black diesel fumes in front) and in my delta I just switch to recirculating and wait it out. No air-conditioned cold air involved unless I choose it.

    Any Way thanks for the help.
  • clubtenclubten Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 with the 5.3. I just had some body work done and when I picked it up the battery was dead and it idled so low the AC would quit and it would almost die. When letting off the gas to come to a stop or make a turn it drops to around 300 rpm and almost dies. When at speed it runs great. I have read many posts and it appears to be a MAF sensor or idle speed control. Any help would be appreciated.
This discussion has been closed.