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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • clubtenclubten Member Posts: 2
    I have an 03 short bed extended cab and put an aftermarket exhaust on. Not long after install I started getting a loud vibration. It turned out to be the pipe rubbing / vibrating against that tube. I removed and have had no problems and that was 85k ago.
  • c4949sc4949s Member Posts: 2
    I had to replace the fuel pump on my 2000 Z 71. I found it much easier to unbolt the bed and raise it, that dropping the fuel take which is a dirty job. Unless you like having a lot of dirt in your face and working on your back. I used a floor jack raising one side at a time and blocking the bed up. You have to get the bed a little higher than the fuel pump assembly height.I was able to move the bed around by hand to line up the bolt holes to reattach the bed. You will also need to release the fastners inside the fuel door.
  • foreman6987foreman6987 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to my 2005 silverado which GM had to buy back (another story). Anyway Dealer had to replace my cab mounts.2 retainers part # 15743841, 2 cushions part# 15059114, 2 cushions part# 15761907, and 2 bolts part# 11519402. This was all warranty work. Hope this helps. Foreman6987
  • slamdanceslamdance Member Posts: 6
    I came out of the store yesterday to find my truck would not start. I turned the key and the dash lights lit-up but there was no sound of the fuel pump going and the starter did not engage. I tried to jump it but that wasn't the problem. I was able to jump the starter and the starter worked, but still would not crank the engine. I finally gave up and called AAA for a tow. This morning I went to the mechanic to check on it and he said he had the same issue; no crank/no start. About an hour later I went back and he had gotten it running. He said he just did the same thing and on the third time turning the key, it fired-up. Now I/we are even more stumped. I'm sending the truck with my wife and kids to Nantucket on Friday. I'm terrifed it's going to happen to them while they are on island, or worse while they are on the beach with it. I've been searching the Web for any information on this and have come up fairly empty. Someone made reference to a TSB 02-06-04-015 MAR02, but I can't any information on it. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. :sick:
  • odranoel58odranoel58 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I'm new to the forums,I think you all do a great job helping others.I have a 96 silverado,with automatic trans. and a 5.0 vortec, after I repaired the front brakes, I found very hard to move the shifter out of parking.I went to a transmission shop and the guy told me just to kick two or three times the pedal,and he was right,but the problem needs to be fixed.He doesn't told me the reason of the problem and is getting worse.Anybody have found the same problem?
    Any help is welcome.
  • prshardheadprshardhead Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like a clunk?...It might be the same problem I had with my '03 Tahoe and I was told the issue is a 2 piece steering column or more precisely the lack of grease between the 2 pieces of the steering column. My dealership knew all about this issue. Repacked the drive shaft and ordered a new one that will do the same thing if the packing seal fails.
    I had a mechanic say he fixed his by installing a grease fitting and greasing the joint during regular maintenance.
    Sounds alot cheaper that replacing an $800 steering column.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    The shift interlock arm is out of adjustment.
    You have to drop the knee bolster plastic panel down
    and adjust the nut that holds it in place as there
    is a slot cut into it (for adjustment).
    It is located on the steering column and is hooked
    into the gear selector and brake pedal.
    Easy fix if your handy with a wrench or send it off
    to the dealer.
  • ddf1ddf1 Member Posts: 18
    I have an 04 Duramax with the dual zone HVAC. It has only happened twice and the dealer could not duplicate problem. The problem is the passenger side will blow out heater hot air when it says it is on the air conditioner and set at 60 degrees. I got the ac to work by turning off the ac, turning up the temp then turn the ac back on, and turn to desired setting. They could not find any computer codes or any obstructions to the vents. Any suggestions?
  • curtfloydcurtfloyd Member Posts: 3
    2001 silverado with a 5.3 runs hot while idiling and the a/c on. i have changed the radiator cap, air filter ,fan clutch , water pump,thermostat,bottom hose, the main belt ,the condensor has been cleaned and the radiator has been taken apart and rotted out.the radiator repairman assures me that the radiator has no blockage.it takes about 20 minutes on days in the 90's for the temp gauge to start climbing and will boil if i dont sart moving.it only takes about 1/2 mile to cool down to normal once you start moving.the engine runs smooth and does not loose any coolant if you dont let it boil over and has no coolant in the oil .i'm lost ,any suggestions? it has 138,000 miles on it.
  • 4wdn_nm4wdn_nm Member Posts: 2
    It should be located on the passenger side below the glove compartment. Its not easy to get to. You have to remove the plastic molding. Once removed you can gain access to the filter. I own a 2001 HD 4-Dr myself and had similar questions. Good luck, and I'm sure you have found it by now.
  • dnehlendnehlen Member Posts: 2
    i just bought 2000 z71 ext cab and i am having the same issue,its only a week old for me it sat at the dealer for about 5 months. which yoke did they replace slip yoke or yoke at the rear end.i only have a 3mth 3000mile warr. need to get it fixed asap.had it 3 garages they all found nothing imagine that. your help would be greatly app.
  • dnehlendnehlen Member Posts: 2
    can someoen help i now that i replyed to an old post,sorry i replyed to z71bill dch300. dnehlen
  • bonz06bonz06 Member Posts: 2
    I have '03 Sierra with a 5.3L V8. I just started having this same issue yesterday. I thought it was the battery at first, since it was close to dead. I put in a new battery but it didn't help. I think it may have something to do with the fan or AC. When i have the fan on it seems to want to stall when I stop. It is even worse when i have the AC on. I have noticed my voltage gauge drops when I stop but then slow returns to normal. When driving my gauge reads over 14v. When I stop, it drops to around 10v.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    So you say your truck stalls only when using the AC and
    or when the AC compressor kicks in?

    Sounds like your AC compressor is seizing up or the ac
    compressor clutch is going bad..............

    It is normal to have a slight voltage drop when using any power accessory.............
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Check or have someone check the alternator. Sounds to me like you have a bad alternator.
  • mpikchikmpikchik Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 chevy silverado 5.7. My problem is I just replaced the fuel pump 3 days ago. now it won't start again. If I put gas in the throttle body it will run till that gas is gone..and if I take off the hose the pump will shoot gas out. so could it be a bad fuel pump again or the throttle body or what?..please help!!
  • bonz06bonz06 Member Posts: 2
    I changed out the alternator this weekend and it didn't help. the voltage is still not stable. I am afraid i may have to take it to the dealership.
  • pstonepstone Member Posts: 2
    I have 98 z-71, the engine seems to be skipping or missing every once and a while while at idle. then if you are driving at around 35 mph or so (when the engine is not in much of a strain) it skipps and misses but if you ease down on the throttle it stops and does what it is supposed to. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and fuel filter, and not long ago I replaced the fuel pump (10,000 miles ago). I'm out of ideas, anyone ever heard of this?
  • wgreenwgreen Member Posts: 17
    Have a 2006 Silverado 1500 work truck that came with the AM-FM stereo with no CD player. How difficult is it to change this unit to something else?
    Would I be better off buying an AM FM unit with CD player from GM parts or going with an aftermarket unit?
    I read in the owner's manual that warning chimes for headlights,seat belts etc. come through the audio unit.
    Anyone know it the chimes would still work if I used an aftermarket unit?

    thanx
    wgreen
  • bgunnz15bgunnz15 Member Posts: 6
    Hey how is it going.. I have a 2001 Chevy 4.3 Silverado.. My check engine light came on the other day and i had hooked it up to the machine.. The code P1416 came up... How can i fix this problem... How major is this problem.. If anybody can be any help.. Very appreciative.. Thank You
  • curtfloydcurtfloyd Member Posts: 3
    still waiting for some help .........please!!!!!!!!!! anyone
  • ddf1ddf1 Member Posts: 18
    It sounds like u covered just about everything about the cooling system. The only things I could think of would be to check for blockage in the heater core. U can feel the hoses and if the discharge is cold then u have found the culprit. Also check all coolant hoses the same way. If that doesn't fix it Red Line has a coolant additive that claims to drop 20 degrees in the coolant. I think it is called water wetter.
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    I agree..... check the heater core. You might need to have the system pressure tested in order to find the problem.
  • bgunnz15bgunnz15 Member Posts: 6
    I really need opinions please... thank you
  • curtfloydcurtfloyd Member Posts: 3
    thanks for responding to my message.i did check all the hoses and they were all hot.i did add some water wetter to the coolant but havent tried it yet because the weather change and we have only been in the 80's for the past several days.mid to high 90's are forecasted for next week and i will try it then.i saw where gmtruck said have the system pressure checked .how do they run a pressure test? thanks
  • nvs36nvs36 Member Posts: 1
    When I use my AC, Heater, or defrost my 99 Silverado makes this loud hissing noise. It does not make the noise while you are idling only when you reach 30 mph or above. Any ideas as to what is causing and how to fix?
  • geogalanisgeogalanis Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2004 chevy silverado 2 wheel drive long bed with 24,170 miles. How do I find out if the factory warranty is on this truck? Also I need a owners book how do i get one
    thank you
    geo
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    I think they use a machine to do the pressure test. The test isn't that expensive and any automotive repair shop can do it. You do know that there are different temp ratings for T-stats .... right? Make sure the new one you put in was the right temp rating for your engine.
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    I think the warranty is still 3yrs/36K on your truck. Any GM dealer can run your VIN number and provide you with that information as well as check to make sure any applicable recalls have been performed on your vehicle.

    You can order an owners manual, but the best place to find one really cheap is on auction sites.

    Enjoy your new truck!
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    Have you checked your cabin filters? Leaves and junk gets down in there and needs to be cleaned out. Does the noise happen with just the fan running without AC or Heat? Do you have a bug deflector on your truck? If so, the noise might be the rubber strips on the sides of the windshield flapping caused by air coming off the deflector.

    If the noise is more of a gurgle sound inside the dash than a hiss, you have air trapped in the cooling system and it needs to be "burped".
  • tomsred52tomsred52 Member Posts: 1
    1996 Chevy Silverado whose cruise controls keeps dropping out and truck has to be turned off to restart the cruise. Help.
  • 85scottsdale85scottsdale Member Posts: 3
    OK, first time posting to this site...looks like most trucks are way mare new than mine, but I hope some one can help.

    Bought an '85 Chevrolet K10 4x4 5.0 a couple of months ago. Just had a bunch of work done on it. I was having some issues with the engine idle being a little high...if I put it in park and reved it, it would go back down. The gas pedal was also pretty hard to push. My mechanic said it was because of the wrong after market carburetor getting in the way of the throttle cable. Well, I had a nice rebuilt carb put on the gas pedal is better, but the idle is still doing the same thing. It doesn't happen all the time but its a pain in the butt when it does. It makes the drive shaft bang when its put in gear too.

    I figured something just needs some WD40 or something. Can anyone help? I haven't really taken a look under the hood for myself yet to try to fix it.

    Thanks!!!
    DAN
  • wiffetwiffet Member Posts: 3
    ...THANK YOU SIR...!!!!!!!!!!....just saw this(I pretty much gave up with the "I'm happy" posts...hehehe)I will call dealer Monday and see what they do-will keep you posted...
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    Your fast idle problem was common for that era of engines. If it only does it when the engine is cold, then it's normal because the choke is on until the engine warms up. If it does it even after the truck has been driven for a while, then it's something else unless the choke is stuck. I had that problem on my '77 GMC truck way back when and I finally disabled the automatic choke and installed a manual choke cable which solved the problem.

    When you install a rebuilt carb, some parts are taken from the old carb and installed on the rebuilt one, so that explains why you still have the same problem with the rebuilt carb. There is an idle solenoid that can be adjusted. I'm not sure what year they switched over to the computer controlled electric carb though. Sounds like your mechanic just needs to adjust the carb and make sure all carb components are functioning correctly. Since engines have been switched over to fuel injection for so long, it's getting harder to find mechanics that know how to work on and properly adjust carbs any more.
  • 85scottsdale85scottsdale Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply! I'll pay attention next time I run it to see if it still does in when warm. However, even when its cold, if I quickly rev the engine, it will resume a normal idle. That's what really led me to believe it was just sticking. It does have the electronic choke.
  • fatboyntroyfatboyntroy Member Posts: 3
    Same problem here, guys. Just bought an 01 silverado w/ 5.3L, 66,000 miles. Runs very smooth, but at stops, the tach goes to around 300 w/ac on, and headlights dim at night. Idle's so low it wants to stall, then surges & nearly floods when i give it gas. Seems like a bad alternator would show up at startup, and i would think a vacuum leak would cause rough idle--none here. I agree w/clubten at this point: possibly MAF or EGR. I assume there's no simple idle speed adjustment, & wonder if a performance chip would solve this problem? Also, could a bad ground be responsible? Sorry, no answers, just more questions.Please let me know if you hear anything. P.S. Www.carcomplaints.com lists a technical service bulletin (TSB #040604040) to address idle instability, low or rough idle w/electronic throttle control, but this is all i can find, no details.
  • balichbalich Member Posts: 62
    My stereo now has no sound .. it appears fine (display, etc) but no sound .. it's been like this for 3 days.

    It happened before but the sound came back the next day.

    Same thing happens to my friends '03 truck as well.

    What is the fix ?

    I am out of warranty .. is this a defect - if so will it
    be covered by GM ?

    Has this happened to you and how did you resolve ?

    Thanks!
  • fireman133fireman133 Member Posts: 3
    hey i got the same model of truck i just bought and it has a rough idle but when you are driving down the road it seems to smooth out. i had it checked out and i have a bad injector on #5 cyclinder. this might be something to check out.
  • 1longwand1longwand Member Posts: 2
    Truck has 130k miles. I have had overheating problems for several weeks now. Temps have been in the upper 90's and doesn't help. Truck temp has gotten as high as 260 but hasn't boiled over once. The problem gets worse on the interstate or at idle. At slow speeds it doesn't overheat or if outside temps are below 85. I started by draining the antifreeze( the fluid that came out was as clean as new), I flushed it anyway to make sure core wasn't stopped up, didn't work, then replaced fan clutch w/ extreme duty rating, didn't work, replaced thermostat w/190, then water pump, then coolant temp sensor for good measure. Nothing has worked. I'm not loosing any fluid, my spark plugs look good,( not lean or discolored)truck runs good. My hoses are good and lower one doesn't collapse under pressure.
    Please help.
  • casper812casper812 Member Posts: 3
    ok any of you ever hear of this? I,m going down the road about 80 mph in my 95 silverado and it dropped out of overdrive so I pulled over checked out didnt find anything obvious so I pulled out and discovered I also didnt have 1st gear. so c
    coming home sometimes I had 1st gear and sometimes overdrive.
    so I,m confused is this a servo problem or something worse?
    any help would appreciated
  • pstonepstone Member Posts: 2
    I don't know why but I had never thought of that. that does make sense. thanks I'll look into it.
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    "I flushed it anyway to make sure core wasn't stopped up"

    Does that mean you flushed out the heater core itself? Just draining the fluid will not flush out debris build up inside the heater core or cooling system. One thing you have not checked is your temp gauge. If you research various GM truck forums, you will see that there have been many problems reported of malfunctioning gauges and such. If all else fails, install a separate temporary temp gauge to make sure it matches the instrument cluster gauge readings. Unless you still have a blockage in the engine block or elsewhere in the cooling system, it should not be overheating. Don't trust the temp gauge readings unless you have tested the gauge itself.
  • 1longwand1longwand Member Posts: 2
    yes, after draining coolant, I then flushed the system and rechecked fluid for debris but was still as clean as new. Thank you for resonding with your suggestion on the temp gauge, I will try that next.
  • matt3869matt3869 Member Posts: 2
    Hopefully somebody can help me out. I have read a few of the messages pertaining to the pass lock system. I have a '99 5.3L Z71. A year ago, the passlock acted up. I had a remote starter installed for a few years and having moved to Florida, I figured it was the problem as it has to bypass the passlock to work, I had it removed and the problem was gone, at least for a year. It acted up several times again and I took it to my local dealer. They said I need to replace the passlock which cost me $260. Fine and dandy until 3 months later it did it again. I took it back and figured the passlock again. This time they said they checked the passlock and it was not the problem, although after having it for 27 hours and only doing 2 hours of diagnosis to it, they said they could not find a problem anywhere, which makes me believe they screwed me good the first time. Is there another problem it could be? It seems weird to me that they supposedly fixed it once, but then with the same exact problems, they couldn't find it. I read the message about using the right resistors to bypass the system, which sounds good, but I'd also like to know what other things could be causing this problem. It doesn't have a pattern. I get in and the truck turns over, then shuts down. The security light comes on intermittently while driving. I wait about 5-10 minutes and it fires back up. Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
  • bigchevybennybigchevybenny Member Posts: 2
    WELL WHIETT, YOU COULD INVEST IN A PERFORMANCE TUNER (SUPERCHIPS) WHICH IS BY THE WAY THE TUNER I PURCHASED. THE TUNER ALLOWS REPROGRAMMING YOUR VEHICLES COMPUTER AND CUSTOM EDITING OPTS. TO ONE OF THE THREE PROGRAMMING OPTIONS YOU CHOOSE IN ADDITION IT READS AND RESETS OR CLEARS YOUR DTCs
  • matt3869matt3869 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. It will allow me to program around the passlock and hopefully eliminate the problem? A little bit of added performance would be nice too. Is there a particular product to look for at superchips?
  • bfbchevybfbchevy Member Posts: 3
    My 95 Silverado 1500 blower motor has finally stopped after some days working and some days not. Once it came on it would run all day until I turn off the engine. But, when I started it back up there was no air coming from the vents again. Hours later or the next day or two, it would come on again. Until, last week. I've replaced the blower motor (passenger side underneath dash), resistor (behind the glove compartment), and checked ALL fuses left of driver and under the hood, and still the blower motor does not run. A/C comes on but no air from any of the vents on any settings, heat, a/c, defrost, floor, vents, or combination. Anybody out there who has any advice, please help, ITS HOT, I'm listening.

    Single dad of 2 children,
    on a tight budget.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Hi folks

    In an effort to make things a bit easier to research, we're adding more focused discussions for the Silverado/Sierra so that they don't get lost in one general discussion.

    If you click on the main Silverado & Sierra Group, you will see a bunch of new discussions broken down by specific sections of the truck. We'd like you to start posting your problems under those new discussions, and hopefully you can get faster respoinses by those who may be more knowledgeable about those specific areas.

    Thanks!
    kcram - Pickups Host
  • chevyman11chevyman11 Member Posts: 1
    Who ever has a 1996 chevrolet Cheyenne pick up truck BEWARE!! i just had a new transmission dropped into mine and at a shiny penny!!! the man at the transmission shop said thats once they hiy about 126k the transmission ware out!!! I would strongly recommend that if u have a 1996 go in and have them take a look at it!! Thanks :confuse:
  • dutcheedutchee Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 chevy 3500 dually my power windows have locked up and it is driving me crazy checked for the fuse but there is no box were the fuse is suppose to be checked under the hood fuse not blown there Is there a fuse somewhere i cant find!!
    Plesase anyone i am at my wits end. Ron
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