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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions
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The first time they looked at it they noted that they could not duplicate the problem, the fluid was ok and not burnt and the inside of the trans looked ok. They installed all available updates on the transmission.
The second time - Perform complete flush on trans and valve body. All programming is now current. Shifted ok on test drive.
They say that the only way that they will be able to determine the problem is to take it apart. But the whole thing just seems like some sensor that freaks out, since it resets itself when you shut it off. Apparently they cannot hook it up and get any diagnostic information from it, but yet they can upload software.
After hearing your story Scobil I think I'll just change the fluid & filter and not worry about a flush job. Knowing GM's quality I might end up dislodging something and flushing it down the drain :sick: I really haven't had any problems with tranny aside from when new where it would lurch while stopped for no apparent reason. Dealer plugged it in and did a program update and no problems since (knock on wood) "Like a Rock"
Hope your problem has been resolved.
Ray T. :shades:
Ray T. :shades:
IN THE FUEL SYSTEM http://www.pipercubforum.com/marvel.htm
Use the directions on the back for amount to put in the fuel per gallon of fuel (4 to 6 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel). MMO goes through the carburetor as a droplet, broken up like the fuel. When it enters the combustion chamber and the gasoline ignites, it is vaporized and soaks into the carbon buildup on cumbustion chamber walls, valve guides, around the valve stem, and on the spark plug. It soaks into the carbon and eventually loosens it up and it goes out the exhaust system.
I'm currently giving some consideration to purchasing the above and would like to inquire about any known problems. I currently have a 2001 extended cab Silverado which has the famous clicking noise (the dealer actually replaced the original engine to address that issue, but of course the new engine has the same issue). So, one of my main questions is whether the engine clicking (piston slap, lifters, or whatever) has been cured in the newer models. One other item I noticed (read about) is that they have gone back to drum brakes on the rear. Why? Any other items to be aware of or comments on this model would be appreciated. Thanks.
Good luck
Eddie :shades:
dR
I had a 1997 F-150 Lariat with a 4.6L that had 157,000 miles on it when I traded it in. My 2004 Silverado (at 24,000 miles) feels used up even though I baby it. Also have a lound engine and several rattles in the body. Geez..... :lemon:
See if you can find the info on the guy out east who rebuilds the ABS units and post it. I want to keep that info handy in case I need it for my 2000 Silverado. If I had my way I would do without the ABS but their all built that way now. I had an accident at work with a Ford Ranger that was directly related to ABS brakes, if it were the older system I could have avoided the accident. :sick: Sometimes new technology is not so great.
Ray T.
After changing the water pump on my 4.3L V6 it sounds like the radiator fan is spinning constantly. Any suggestions. :confuse: dR
The offer will be made to correct it using a "kit". PASS on the kit, it seldom solves the problem, nor does merely "cleaning it" either. INSIST on a new throttle body at Chey's expense. They may squawk at first, but they WILL do the repair. If not, merely request, (politely), the Regional GM Representative's number....NOT that "automated" service GM has but for a real, live person! I can assure you -- your truck will be repaired without further delay.
Bowties rule! :shades:
Ray T.
I have a 91' chevy sill. 350 that doesn't shift from 2nd to 3rd. one out of second it revs high and does not shift at all. Even when let cool down did not shift had to drive in second gear at about 30mph because if it came out of second at about 35-40 it would rev up and I would have to stop and restart keeping it in 2nd. I am only 16 and can't handle to spend a lot any Ideas of what it might be and how much any comments very appreciated. Thanks
The service from Chevy dealers is both indifferent and poor. They only want to shove new vehicles out the door.
My truck seems to have hesitation problem.
I notice it more from a dead stop and making a right hand turn. It seems as thought the motor doesn't want to go it just stays around 2000 RPMs when I take off.
Any suggestion. Also any ideas on this computer upgrade/downloads that the dealer is talking about they say it is 250.00 is it worth it.
Get back to me please!
Btw i baby this truck with lots of texaco EP grease
Foot on brake, in a wide open parking
Put into drive, Let truck begin to go on its own without gas.
Pop! snap ! pop pop pop ................! begin to BRAKE.
So.... the truck does it under very little load. In Drive.
TEST 2:
Apply foot firmly on brake and press on gas while in drive. no popping noises you can hear engine chugging. I let go off gass and then ever so slightly let out the brake then the POP SNAP Crunch is even louder without giving the truck gas.
I began to accellerate and and it eventually went away until I began to brake and get back in the 0- 30 km/h zone. i dont touch the gas and you hear that damn noise again.
Ever damn time. it seems like when the engine is under alot of load it is compressing a mount or somthing ...
it sounds like metal on metal so tightly rubbed together that it makes a popping noise.
Its doesnt affect highway driving at all
Truck drives like a cadillac. 240 000 kms. well maintained. greased monthly oil sprayed yearly. stabilized fuel no rust 19 92 long box 305
HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM!
:confuse:
ive got a 97 chevy c/1500 with the 350 vortec
??????????????? :confuse:
When I start the motor the fuel gauge shows empty ( even with a full tank ) and so the low fuel light turns on. It remains so unless I drive it several miles in which case the fuel gauge slowly rises to the proper level over a 10 mile or so stretch. Occassionally, the fuel gauge will just jump to empty from over half a tank and in a few seconds jump back up to the proper level. I'd say it was a short or something, but then why would it slowly rise to the proper level over a 10 mile drive ?
HELP !!!!!!
-David
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