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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Transmission - 4 Speed Auto W/Elect Controls H.D. (Hydra - Matic 4L80 - E). That's a good sign. I've heard of some having problems with the "complete flush". Didn't hear exactly what went wrong. Updating the programming seems like a shot in the dark. Did you receive any warranty period for the work that they did on your trans? Did they do any other type of "adjustment" other than updating the software (would be listed on invoice)?
  • hammerclaushammerclaus Member Posts: 2
    I want to get rid of the ugly air intake sys on my 97 1500 is there a way i can not put the stupid looking "cold air" intake and put an intake on it like the ones for a carb ???
  • billskybillsky Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 2500HD, with the Vortek 8.1, ext cab. When I started the truck after 6 weeks in storage the Allison transmission would not shift. About 10 minutes later it started to shift and has been fine ever since. Chevy said there was a kit to fix the problem for $1500. Anyone else experience this problem?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Not with throttle body injection you can't. What do you expect to gain besides looks ? :confuse:
  • scobilscobil Member Posts: 3
    I did not get type of warranty other than their standard, but then they really didn't do anything. At least I will have my complaints on record.

    The first time they looked at it they noted that they could not duplicate the problem, the fluid was ok and not burnt and the inside of the trans looked ok. They installed all available updates on the transmission.

    The second time - Perform complete flush on trans and valve body. All programming is now current. Shifted ok on test drive.

    They say that the only way that they will be able to determine the problem is to take it apart. But the whole thing just seems like some sensor that freaks out, since it resets itself when you shut it off. Apparently they cannot hook it up and get any diagnostic information from it, but yet they can upload software.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    With 56k & 5yrs. on original fluid and my camping trips getting ready to start up again I was wondering when time came if I should do a flush or just drop the tranny pan and change the fluid/filter. (Y2K LS 2500 Shortbed Ext.Cab, 2wd, 5.3L Automatic, 3:73 Locker, Z85 Firm Ride, Tow Pkg).
    After hearing your story Scobil I think I'll just change the fluid & filter and not worry about a flush job. Knowing GM's quality I might end up dislodging something and flushing it down the drain :sick: I really haven't had any problems with tranny aside from when new where it would lurch while stopped for no apparent reason. Dealer plugged it in and did a program update and no problems since (knock on wood) "Like a Rock"
    Hope your problem has been resolved.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • duramaxduramax Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 chevy 4x4 Duramax crew cab 2500. I bought it used and love the truck, but I have had to replace the front hub assemblies twice within 30,000 miles. I dont drive it real rough, but I do use it on the farm. I was just curious if anyone had any ideas on this. The assembly is around 300 dollars a wheel. The chevy place just tells me it shouldnt be happening.
  • 20021500hd20021500hd Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problems, except mine was not only on start but at 50K miles it never went away, my service department said it was carbonbuildup on the cylinders and they instructed me to contact customer service, So I got on the phone with customer service and told them how unhappy I was with paying 34K for a vehicle that sounded like a piece of crap, and they asked how long I expected to keep the truck and I said atleast 10 years and they asked what it would take to make me happy, and I said to atleast cover the engine and transmission to 100K miles, done deal, they gave me the extended warranty at no cost with a zero deductable for service .... I ran Mystery Oil in the gas tank for a while and that cleaned the carbon from the cylinders, no more noise after the cold start knock goes away ......
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Curious to how much Marvel Mystery oil you added to tank and what size tank on your truck 26 gal or 34 gal. Been thinking of doing the same. That stuffs been around a long time. I never understood the "carbon buildup" issue since all is controlled by computer it should not be an issue but in this day and age anything is possible as well as the answers from dealerships...........

    Ray T. :shades:
  • 20021500hd20021500hd Member Posts: 2
    I used 6 oz for every 10 gals of gas (as directed on the bottle as a fuel additive). I have the 26 gal tank and never ran it completely empty. I haven't done this in the last 4 months because it solved the problem, even the Chevy garage is dumbfounded. My local mechanic recommended it. I got this from their web page explaing how it works and it really did .....

    IN THE FUEL SYSTEM http://www.pipercubforum.com/marvel.htm
    Use the directions on the back for amount to put in the fuel per gallon of fuel (4 to 6 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel). MMO goes through the carburetor as a droplet, broken up like the fuel. When it enters the combustion chamber and the gasoline ignites, it is vaporized and soaks into the carbon buildup on cumbustion chamber walls, valve guides, around the valve stem, and on the spark plug. It soaks into the carbon and eventually loosens it up and it goes out the exhaust system.
  • bachtorockbachtorock Member Posts: 2
    I want to install dual Flowmaster original Mdl 40s with an,"H" pipe on my '96 K1500 w/5.7L.since it already has true dual exhaust to the muffler. I got under the truck with a tape measure to see if they would fit. They might fit if the mufflers were mounted side-by-side vertically. I know that the Flowmaster case is around 5x10. Has this been done before?
  • friedfried Member Posts: 2
    Hi

    I'm currently giving some consideration to purchasing the above and would like to inquire about any known problems. I currently have a 2001 extended cab Silverado which has the famous clicking noise (the dealer actually replaced the original engine to address that issue, but of course the new engine has the same issue). So, one of my main questions is whether the engine clicking (piston slap, lifters, or whatever) has been cured in the newer models. One other item I noticed (read about) is that they have gone back to drum brakes on the rear. Why? Any other items to be aware of or comments on this model would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • fasteddiez71fasteddiez71 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 that the same thing happened too. Under your drivers seat mounted on the frame of the truck is the ABS pump. It has a transistor in it that was speced to small in design and never recalled. The transistor fries on almost all of them, so getting a used one and installing it is risky. I took the risk. I got one a local truck wrecking yard that I have used before and trust. Had the brake shop install it and that was 14 months ago. Cost me about$250.00 all in all. Now there is a guy back east that will rebuild it for $100.00 plus shipping. he knows what he's doing and uses a transistor that over rated so as not to cook again. He also warranties his work for one year. I cant remember the forum I found him in, but it shouldn't be hard to find him. What ever you do, dont just let it go, the ABS in these rigs can save your life and perhaps that of another person. They will lock the brakes on wet pavement and slide like a sled without the ABS working.

    Good luck
    Eddie :shades:
  • dringodringo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Silverado 4.3L V6. Had to replace the transmission back in Sep 04 because the TCM went out. Now the Odometer/PRND321 section of the instrument panel isn't working. I've checked all fuses and connections on the transmission, all are okay. Any suggestions? I've called a few dealers, but haven't spoken to a "live" body yet... and no replys to my messages. With the repair manuals I've looked at, only helps points me to the fuses. there must be a sensor on the transmission providing feeding the instrument panel, but can't track it down. :confuse: Thanks in advance.
    dR
  • rk1974rk1974 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. It is horrible sounding and you can almost feel a slight jolt when it is engaged.

    I had a 1997 F-150 Lariat with a 4.6L that had 157,000 miles on it when I traded it in. My 2004 Silverado (at 24,000 miles) feels used up even though I baby it. Also have a lound engine and several rattles in the body. Geez..... :lemon:
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Fasteddie,

    See if you can find the info on the guy out east who rebuilds the ABS units and post it. I want to keep that info handy in case I need it for my 2000 Silverado. If I had my way I would do without the ABS but their all built that way now. I had an accident at work with a Ford Ranger that was directly related to ABS brakes, if it were the older system I could have avoided the accident. :sick: Sometimes new technology is not so great.

    Ray T.
  • dringodringo Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem with my 99 Silverado... the ABS controller continued running after shutting off the engine. Replaced it from one found in the local junk...err "Used Parts" dealer 2 years ago...$75.00 buck vs 750.00 at the dealer. Haven't had any problems since. :surprise: No harder than changing out a master cylinder. ltr dR
  • dringodringo Member Posts: 4
    Hello again... new to site, so a few postings in row.
    After changing the water pump on my 4.3L V6 it sounds like the radiator fan is spinning constantly. Any suggestions. :confuse: dR
  • staugchevystaugchevy Member Posts: 1
    Concerning your "sticking throttle" and the dealer's offer to "clean the throttle body". I have a 1999 Siverado, 4.8 AND I used to work at a Chevy dealership in parts for 3 years. Chevy has a "problem" with the throttle body sticking on almost ALL of their V8 engines in the pickups. Last I knew there was a "campaign", (aka unmandated recall), for this problem...and YES...it IS dangerous! :surprise:

    The offer will be made to correct it using a "kit". PASS on the kit, it seldom solves the problem, nor does merely "cleaning it" either. INSIST on a new throttle body at Chey's expense. They may squawk at first, but they WILL do the repair. If not, merely request, (politely), the Regional GM Representative's number....NOT that "automated" service GM has but for a real, live person! I can assure you -- your truck will be repaired without further delay. ;)

    Bowties rule! :shades:
  • jhewettjhewett Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99" chevy pickup V6 and it runs great in the winter time but in the summer after it runs a while it will start to slam into gear. You can turn the vehicle off and restart it and it will shift fine for about an hour. I have changed the CPU and the cylinoids in the transmission and it hasn't helped. Any Ideas?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Constantly spinning ?? Only if the engine is running. Do you mean the auxillary thermostatically controlled cooling fan? that might have a bad sensor and keep the fan running. It usually cycles dependent on engine temp. I don't remember if my truck has one or not (brain fart) :confuse:

    Ray T.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    Hi guys and gals. Please confirm that the fuel filter in the 05 Silverado is in the gas tank. If so, that means we can't replace it ourselves? Oh great.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    eyup. Same thing for the 04's, and possibly for the 03's. Not cheap if you have the dealerships replace for you either (plenty of discussion on this topic in other forums, along with comments about deleted interior lights, underhood lights, air filtration system, etc.)
  • dave50dave50 Member Posts: 22
    I had a similar problem with a 99 astro 4.3 with 70k. It had a major power loss that happened periodically during acceleration. Finally after several months it gave a trouble code of the MAS air flow. I was standing in line to buy one for close to $100 bucks and a mechanic standing next to me told me to remove the MAS ( which only took 3 minutes) and wash out the sensor wires with carb cleaner. I did what he said and it solved the problem.
  • dave50dave50 Member Posts: 22
    The clunk is easily repaired (20 minutes.) Take off 1 bolt under dash on steering sharft u-joint. Remove same type of bolt from under the hood and the other end of the shaft and pull the unit out. Seperate the shafts by extending it outward. You will see grease only on one end of the shaft. Get a palm full of heavy wheelbearing grease and pack the splines as good as you can. Reassemble. Make sure you align the steering wheel straight. It seems like a cheesy fix but it works!
  • crazzywadecrazzywade Member Posts: 2
    Hi All:
    I have a 91' chevy sill. 350 that doesn't shift from 2nd to 3rd. one out of second it revs high and does not shift at all. Even when let cool down did not shift had to drive in second gear at about 30mph because if it came out of second at about 35-40 it would rev up and I would have to stop and restart keeping it in 2nd. I am only 16 and can't handle to spend a lot any Ideas of what it might be and how much any comments very appreciated. Thanks
  • dano4dano4 Member Posts: 35
    Had 2003 Silverado 4WD with small V8 and automatic transmission. This truck had a nasty clunk in the transmission anytime it did a 2-3 or 3-2 shift without first shifting into first gear. Went to 2 dealers, both said it was normal. Drove a brand new truck and, sure enough, it had the same noise. Kept this piece of junk from date when new for four months then bought a new 2003 Dodge RAM 1500. It's easy to see why GM has major profit problems. The Dodge has been perfect for nearly two years.
    The service from Chevy dealers is both indifferent and poor. They only want to shove new vehicles out the door.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    I hate ABS brakes also. I was so happy finding a new 2004 Impala which was made without them. ABS does increase stopping distance.
  • mikepersingmikepersing Member Posts: 2
    Your clunk is an intermediate steering shaft problem, (like gm told you), but they didnt tell you there is a fix. Greasing is only temporary and the clunk will come back. I just had mine replaced and so did my brother. there is a new redesigned shaft available to replace the old faulty one. Unfortunately the part is on NATIONAL back order and could take over a month to get. The dealer told me the number of trucks with the bad part is enormous, and the demand for new parts is too. So you might have to wait for your part. So go to your dealer and set him straight this is a known problem to GM and they should know this, mine did. good luck.
  • mikepersingmikepersing Member Posts: 2
    I`m looking for someone with a 99 silverado. I need to know if the front driveshaft spins when in 2HI. Mine does, but other silverados I have looked at don`t. the other trucks were newer but shared the same transfer case, (model 246GM). So I need to find another 99 to help with my problem. Anyone with a 99 please help!!!!!!!
  • busterswtbusterswt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 (AutoTrac) and can verify that the front drive shaft turns at all times, even when in 2HI.
  • jlyons1jlyons1 Member Posts: 2
    did the plug wires fix the problem?
    My truck seems to have hesitation problem.
    I notice it more from a dead stop and making a right hand turn. It seems as thought the motor doesn't want to go it just stays around 2000 RPMs when I take off.
    Any suggestion. Also any ideas on this computer upgrade/downloads that the dealer is talking about they say it is 250.00 is it worth it.
  • jlyons1jlyons1 Member Posts: 2
  • adamizer1adamizer1 Member Posts: 2
    I notice that when i begin to accellerate ever so slightly from stopped to about 2nd gear i hear a sound that sounds like the more gas i give it it just pops and snaps and crackles under my feet and it goes away after 2nd gear pops in. Its got the R700 auto 4 speed. all the universals are freshly greased, there is no play between the tranni and the hanger bearing and there is no play between the hanger bearing and the rear end. I just noticed that when i park the truck, shut it off and get out, it makes that popping noise once. If i park on an upward slope facing my garage, i put the truck in park and i push the truck back and fourth with my body to get some momentum, i that damn noise again.its like somthing isnt tight?

    Get back to me please!

    Btw i baby this truck with lots of texaco EP grease

    :cry:
  • adamizer1adamizer1 Member Posts: 2
    Test 1:
    Foot on brake, in a wide open parking
    Put into drive, Let truck begin to go on its own without gas.

    Pop! snap ! pop pop pop ................! begin to BRAKE.

    So.... the truck does it under very little load. In Drive.

    TEST 2:

    Apply foot firmly on brake and press on gas while in drive. no popping noises you can hear engine chugging. I let go off gass and then ever so slightly let out the brake then the POP SNAP Crunch is even louder without giving the truck gas.

    I began to accellerate and and it eventually went away until I began to brake and get back in the 0- 30 km/h zone. i dont touch the gas and you hear that damn noise again.

    Ever damn time. it seems like when the engine is under alot of load it is compressing a mount or somthing ...
    it sounds like metal on metal so tightly rubbed together that it makes a popping noise.

    Its doesnt affect highway driving at all

    Truck drives like a cadillac. 240 000 kms. well maintained. greased monthly oil sprayed yearly. stabilized fuel no rust 19 92 long box 305

    HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM!
  • my69camaromy69camaro Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Silverado. Last year the belt to our air compressor broke twice within a few months. A mechanic told us the compressor had locked up and wants to replace the compressor and everything having to do with the compressor. From what he said this is a common problem. Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone been able to get Chevy to do anything for them or about the problem?
    :confuse:
  • dphillydphilly Member Posts: 1
    :sick: i have a 1999 4.8 and the insturment cluster went out and it is running strange and really slow to go after a stop. i have been told it needs a new ignition switch...will that fix the way it is running as well as the instrument cluster prob? and they want to charge me 375$?
  • hammerclaushammerclaus Member Posts: 2
    I cant seem to find my manual and i want to know what the trouble code C0500 means
    ive got a 97 chevy c/1500 with the 350 vortec
    ??????????????? :confuse:
  • makoltdmakoltd Member Posts: 3
    Hell Yes Worry. Call GMs 800 Number and get that Driveshaft replaced, FREE!@!. I dealt with the dealerships greasing the yokes at $60 a pop when the STB states that when the condition gets to the point that engadgment is violent, GM WILL REPLACE IT. I had my done at 86k. It will destroy your REEAR END, as it did mine which GM REPLACED under warranty at 91k.. Fight then call GM, they are hurting and value your business. FYI. My service records are 1/5" think. I have the truck Flushed from Rad to Rear end every year. I repack bearings every year. I now have 127k on it and am about to get Tranny, Engine and Wieland SC done. I love my truck. I drove both the 3/4 Tom 496 and the SS and my Truck is by far faster - Headers, GM MaF, STEVE COLE RE-PROGRAMMING, Bypass, Pullies, well over 360hp.. 2nd hits 90.. Hope this helps you, the fact that you can say others are getting this fixed and that the greasing is making it worst, FIGHT.. :)
  • yup3yup3 Member Posts: 1
    When i go to start the truck im not getting that usual 5-8 second humm from the fuel pump. its a 98 and i was wondering if anyone new something about it i might not or the easiest way to fix it.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    If it starts and continues to run the ole adage "if it ain't broke there's nothing to fix" applys here. :shades:
  • pratherprather Member Posts: 2
    I would contact a factory rep. and demand nothing but a new truck. This is serious damage to your truck and likely there are more defects. Collateral damage from this type of injury to a new truck is bad. The Lemon Law will allow you recourse for your demand of a new truck. Don't back down and you will get a new one. Good luck.
  • pratherprather Member Posts: 2
    My abs and brake light alarms kept coming on and annoying us to death. It would dong about 30 times at any time. My abs worked fine even when it was doing this. The dealer told me that I needed a new ebcm computer which costs about 700.00 just for the part. I told them that my brakes worked fine, I tested them. Could it be any thing else, I asked. They said no. So I said fix it. Then they wanted me to pay up front because of the price of the part! I then asked if there was a way to test the computer. They said no. I went on line and found ABSfixer.com. I sent it to the guy in MO. He said there was no problem with it. He even put it on his truck for a week and it was fine. He sent it back to me with no charge. I had this problem early when I bought it new in 03. All four of my rotors warped while it was under warranty and they would not replace them. They turned however and then wanted me to pay half of it. I refused and heard from no one since. Overall I love the truck and it looks awesome. 2003 Z71 X-cab, hard teneau cover, nerf bars mello tone exhaust. Chevy's service however has been very dissappointing. I too have a clunk in the drive system shaft when it shifts into the lower gears and at stop and take off again. Especially on slow take off on a slight down slope. I was told by a mechanic friend that this was no big deal really. He said that the shaft is made with steel with an aluminium insert and it causes a little noise at times. He said his 00 model does it too but worse yet he pulls a 30 ft. trailor often. The next thing for me is to raise the front end. If you do need an abs computer go to absfixer.com and you can get yours refurbished for about 250.00 and install it yourself. Dealership ripoff!
  • rabbytrabbyt Member Posts: 4
    Ok .I bought this 2000 Chevy regular cab 4x4 because it was from a new chevy dealer and the price matched the suggested NADA. Frankly, I looked for about 6 weeks trying to find one at a fair price. I have found several problems I guess I could live with ( wiper mist motor does not work, cruise control does not keep the vehicle up to speed on a long incline ( like 70 falls to 50 before the engine does anything ), it has the 4.8 but has little or no acceleration, but what I HAVE to know is this.....
    When I start the motor the fuel gauge shows empty ( even with a full tank ) and so the low fuel light turns on. It remains so unless I drive it several miles in which case the fuel gauge slowly rises to the proper level over a 10 mile or so stretch. Occassionally, the fuel gauge will just jump to empty from over half a tank and in a few seconds jump back up to the proper level. I'd say it was a short or something, but then why would it slowly rise to the proper level over a 10 mile drive ?
    HELP !!!!!!
  • country00country00 Member Posts: 5
    The color matched body side molding on my 01 Silverado has faded real bad and makes the truck look terrible. I have been thinking about taking all the molding off and repainting. Any suggestions would help. I bought the truck used in 03 and I'm not sure what the previous owner did to make it look this way.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    That DTC (C0500) doesn't show up in any of my reference materials. I'm assuming it's OBDII. The nearest thing is C0550, which has to do with the transfer case.

    -David
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Unless you repaint the entire truck at the same time, you'll never get the molding to match the body again. Replace the moldings with black or chrome if you feel you still want/need them.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    And taking off the old molding would require some fishing line and goo gone.....No rivets holding them on only 3M tape. Could be the previous owner tried to paint match it. The matching body side moldings were only offered on the LT series and were injected so that it wouldn't fade. Course then again anythings possible.
  • bigtrckbigtrck Member Posts: 1
    Anyone have a problem with their vehicle starting up, here is a description of what happens with mine. I went out to start my truck and turned the key, all the power for the front headlights, radio and dashboard came on, but the engine did not start. There was no noise coming from the engine either. I waited a few minutes and then went back out to start it, and it started right up. I then took the truck to the dealer and asked for a full diagnostic, they ran it through and came out with nothing, all the electrical and everything was just fine. So im basically stuck at this and wondering whats the matter....
  • fj40cruiserfj40cruiser Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 5.3L and over the last several months have had to service the coolant more than a few times. I've done a fairly extensive search for leaks, especially around the intake where these Vortec engines are known to leak but I have not found any. I have a buddy with an '01 6.0L that is experiencing the same issue. Has anyone been able to correct this problem?
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