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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • slamdanceslamdance Member Posts: 6
    I had a similar sounding issue with a '98 durango. Turned out the new battery I had bought was defective. One of the plates inside the battery had dislodged and would cause intermittent issues like you described. I'd start there since you said you had a new battery. It could also be a loose battery cable. Good luck.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    The fog lights run off their own fuse seperate from headlights.
    Did ya check that ?

    Is it a poss. that both fog light bulbs blew out?
    (hot bulbs...cold water ????equals pop????)
  • newtochevynewtochevy Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2000 Silverado. Nice truck, but the service engine light came on the day I drove it home. The dealership checked and cleared the code, and said it's because I opened the fuel tank to put in fuel injector cleaner. Laughed at me, cleared the code, and said it's nothing to worry about, it happens all the time. The light just came on again today, and I'm concerned that there may be more going on than, "nothing to worry about". Is there a problem the dealership doesn't want me to know about while I'm still under their 30 day warrenty?
  • jjtjjjtj Member Posts: 80
    If it were me, I'd go to Autozone, where they'll read the code & usually interpret it for free for you.. The CEL can come on if you fail to tighten the gas cap. I think they recommend 3 clicks to be safe. But the fuel injector cleaner shouldn't cause the light to come on. Figure out what condition the light is really coming on for by having Autozone read it, then confront the dealer with the real problem if necessary.
  • chrisadamschrisadams Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, that's interesting information. My battery is a month old, bought from Walmart, so a defective battery is a possibility. The cables are tight, so I can probably rule out bad cables.
  • mfhackermfhacker Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD with the same problem. I live in FL. The symptoms are the same, sometimes the fuel gauge appears to power off. Any suggestions on cleaning or replacing the sending unit?
  • ddd522ddd522 Member Posts: 3
    All the fuses checked out OK. Did a continuity check on bulbs and they were OK.
  • sharky00slvrdsharky00slvrd Member Posts: 3
    Hello everybody. New member here. I have a question related to my 2000 Silverado 2WD. I just put some 20" rims with 305/50 tires. They don't scratch or anything but they do give me a smaller clearance on the back so that the body hits the tire sooner with a load. I was thinking about putting some Z71 shocks to see if they help. So my questions are... Will the Z71 shocks fit (the red ones)? Will they raise the truck a little bit more? Will the body drop less (meaning more hauling) with Z71 shocks?

    I am trying to come up with a simple and inexpensive solution for this. I was told about putting blocks but it seems they will be more trouble and expensive. Can anyone please help me out?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    If you go by this plus sizing chart you won't find what you have listed, this may be part of your rubbing on rear fender problem. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/assignTireVehicle.do?yr=2000&vid=007731
    Correction of rubbing won't be made by changing shocks unless you install an air adjustable shock or a lift kit.
    In addition your speedometer reading is going to be way off as well as performance and shift points since you have changed the gear ratio effectively by installing such a large tire. You will also have to by a programmer to change settings in computer to compensate for these tires. The dealers can only make limited adjustments for tire sizes above the factory tires.

    Ray T.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    I have read the GM Tech 2 only goes up to 285s. Not even sure about
    reprogramming for 20s.

    My Hypertech 3 programmer will also only go to 285s.......No 20s either.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    I guess that leaves "Sharky" no other option then but to install a lift kit ! ;) Of course the shifting and speedo discrepencies will remain which is gonna cause its own headaches I would think down the road. The truck will probably be sluggish with off the line power since gear ratio is changed by size of tires if not compensated for.
    I'll tell ya from a friend who installed some 20" 50 series tires on his Colorado that he was not happy with the change for worse in ride quality, with such a small sidewall area guess where the road bumps go to.....your bottom ! :P

    Ray T. :shades:
  • ammasseammasse Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone replaced their daytime running lights on a Silverado. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 and cannot figure out how to replace the bulb. Any suggestions? Thank you!
  • beboutitbeboutit Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 .4X4. 1500 silverado wit 120k miles. Gas gets all the way up into the engine and has pressure but it will not run. it turns over and when i put gas straight into the engine it runs for a few secs. Can anyone help me?
  • sharky00slvrdsharky00slvrd Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input Ray. For now, I have experienced good ride quality in everyday driving and I can haul decent loads. Later on though, I will install a small lift (probably 2").
  • wspinelliwspinelli Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 1999 4.8 liter 4wd silverado. It has 98,000 mi.on it. It is starting to run rough.When do you replace spark plugs on this model? Also service 4 wheel drive light comes on but when I put it in 4 wheel drive it works fine any info on this would also be helpful. I use reg. gas.

    Thank you,

    Walter
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Two steel rods hold each headlight in place. Removing the headlights will give you access to the DRL's. It's tight quarters though. While depressing the locking tab turn in the direction against the locking post. Breaking the rubber seal may take quite a tug.

    -David
  • estakaestaka Member Posts: 11
    I have owned my 1993 K1500 pickup for over 10 years. I bought it used in 1995. Early in 1996 the service engine light came on and when checked at the shop, it reported that the spark control unit was faulty. he service man replaced several items, including the knock sensor. Drove the truck out of the shop with the light off, but about 2 days later, the light came back on..... guess what... same code!!! Back to the shop, now they replace the computer... All was great for 2 weeks... then... again!!! Shop said that there must be a problem in the wiring harness... A very pricey repair and one I chose to not have done, since the truck was not running bad. Fast forward now to 2005... My son and I are doing some work on the truck and we do the diagnostics on the error message... spark control failure... when we check the sending unit (actually the knock sensor in my Canadian 93) the unit had a resistance of over 10000 ohms and the manual called for around 3500 ohms) he removed it and took it to Advance Auto parts (Part number KS-7 with the black tip connector) where he ordered a new one. When they handed it to him, he decided to test the ohmage (since there are no returns on electrical parts) and he saw that it had a resistance of 10000 ohms, same as our old one. He inquired from the parts man if there were other models, maybe for a different year, and he came back with another one (a KS-7 with a white connector) which was for a 1992 K1500, but this one read 3500 ohms!!! Know what? Service engine light is now off... Power has increased tremendously and truck runs like new with over 250,000 miles. I have long gone from that shop that did the initial repair, but I recall that the mechanic that did the work has enough Patches of qualifications to fill a long sleeve shirt and certificates to fill the wall... obviously no indication of actual competency. Now to put another 250,000 miles on my truck.
  • strekstrek Member Posts: 14
    I have a Y2K Silverado 4X4 that I purchased new. I have experienced all the usual problems - engine knock (for which I was given a 100K warranty), sticking throttle body (twice), cracked frame around the sliding rear window, rear spring slap, mold in the a/c, replaced transfer case rear seals (twice), replaced pads for emergency brake (twice), new bushings for lower control arm and front sway bar, rear view mirror temp gauge broken and replaced, replaced rear quarter glass due to wind noise.

    I’m sure there are other things that I've forgotten, but ya'll get the idea, not exactly a trouble free vehicle. But most of that stuff was corrected under warranty, so I just kept my mouth shut and kept on driving.

    I now have 107K miles on the truck and the steering is starting to rattle a bit, but since I have to pay for it myself, it's going to have to rattle a lot louder before I have it repaired. Oh, and the front differential cover halves are leaking, so that seal is going to have to be replaced sometime soon.

    The truck still runs, so what the heck.

    But now, now I'm really ticked off.......all this time I thought the dashboard was solid gray plastic, but I just noticed peeling paint around the passenger grab handle. The dash is black and has been painted with what looks like vinyl paint. That really sucks!

    Anybody else heard of this and does anyone know if it can be repaired? Lone Star Chevy here in Houston says they have someone who can repair it by some magical process, but it costs $150 and for that kind of money I would like to try to fix it myself.

    Anybody, anybody…Ferris?

    Strek
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I discovered the same thing on my truck a few months back. The medium gray began flaking off the instrument cluster trim piece. At first I thought it was foreign matter and tried to rub it off. When it wouldn't I foolishly used a strong solvent, discovering to my amazement it'd been painted. I found some vinyl spray paint at Pep Boys (Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric Color, VS8 Medium Gray Vinyl) that's a pretty good match, although I wouldn't spray it on. Spray it into a small container and use a tiny artist's brush to daub it on. Because the match isn't perfect (lighter) you'll get a better result.

    -David
  • dave78dave78 Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone, I've got a problem that I hope someone can help me with. I have a 93 Chevy 1500 4x4 with a 5.7 ltr. It started to run very rough when driving, then got to the point where it had to be floored to get it to start, but it would not idle, it would just hunt for idle then die out, you could keep it going if you feathered the gas, now it will not start at all, it will back fire here and there but that it all. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter, the distributor was replaced with known good part. the injectors seem to have a good spray, oh ya, I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator. spark seems to be ok, timing is ok.
    Anyone got another idea????? Thanks for any replies...
  • dj8dj8 Member Posts: 6
    Still looking for some help to this one!
    Thanks
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Plugs & wires are supposed to last 100k, I'd say it's time for you to change them if it's showing signs of rough running, don't forget to change all the filters too, gas, air, cabin etc.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You may have a better chance of getting an answer here:

    mrl390, "Chevy C/K Series: Problems & Solutions" #133, 24 Jun 2005 7:50 pm

    ugh! Hope the link works!!
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Actually, this is the right spot. The C/K discussion is intended for the old C/K series (1987 and earlier). Chevy began using the Silverado name for the entire line with the redesigned 1988 models.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • jcjanusjcjanus Member Posts: 1
    Jim-

    The internet is a wonderful thing, thank you for your post.

    The odometer/gear shift display on my '99 1500 Silverado has been intermittent (and getting worse) for some time now (100K-150K). I've been rapping on the instrument cluster to reveive the display, but that works less and less. Either the plastic or my nuckles are going to bust if I don't fix it 'right'. What should I know before I make it worse by removing the instrument cluster incorrectly? This will by my first instrumentclusterectomy!

    -Chris
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I'm pretty sure Chevy started using the Silverado name for the entire line beginning in 1999. I remember magazine reviews specifically pointing out the change with the introduction of the new body style trucks. Prior to that Silverado was the upper level trim. (My uncle owns a 1997 right now)
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Yup.

    Got my lines crossed, sorta. That was the year GMC started using Sierra as the full line name instead of as trim names, and Chevy dropped 10/20/30 designations to go to 1500/2500/3500. Further screwing it up was maintaining the 1987-and-earlier design as the R/V series through 1991 alongside the redesigned trucks.

    No one ever accused GM of making sense... :)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • johns4johns4 Member Posts: 2
    Brand new to this forum. Am an old motorhead, use to do all my own repairs...when computers came along, tools started getting dusty.
    Truck recently became harder to start, and then quit. I checked the fuel pump relay, made sure it was operating, and contacts were clean. Changed fuel filter, then truck ran for a couple of weeks and quit. I verified spark, and fuel pressure is 45 psi. Back on the internet, I have found many references about minimum fuel pressure, most of them between 50 and 60 psi. So the question is does this truck have an adjustable pressure regulator, or is the fuel pump responsible for the pressure? I've not checked the signal to the injectors, mainly because I can't find them. Are they underneath the intake cowling? Thanks in advance for suggestions.
  • gdm1gdm1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Silverado Crew Cab, 4X4 Diesel. Overall, I love the truck as it's been all I expected and more. Recently, I have encountered a problem that is very distrurbing. My truck's interior is charcoal grey. The entire dash as started to "peel". In about 10 odd places (all overall the dash) the "grey" material is flaking off, exposing the black undercoating. It's almost like the dash was painted grey and the paint is chipping off to show the undercoat. It's a small as the size of a pencil lead in most spots, but has spread around one of my heater/ac vents to the size of a couple of quarters. Has anyone else experienced this? Recall item? This immaculate truck is going to look really bad soon as the rest starts peeling! Help!
  • flowerchild64flowerchild64 Member Posts: 3
    I have been in the process of re-doing my late husbands 93' silverado for my son to drive in a few years. After going through the "domino effect", replacing the motor(350 from Chevrolet which is under warranty) the transmission (under warranty), I bought an AC Delco A/C air compressor. It was installed along with the million other things during the "domino effect" period which was about a year and 1/2 ago. The compressor started making a awful noise, whenever I turned it on the first time after the winter months. I went to the parts store, the guy listened to it and without blinking an eye gave me another brand new compressor and said they would take care of labor costs, just give them the bill when it was done. I, (being a woman, thought: I am in business now-ha) I had it replaced, and immediately the same thing again, and 2 more times after that, (total of 4) before they finally admitted to my mechanic, that AC Delco had a recall on the air compressor, (duh) and they didn't want him to tell me! They no longer have my business of course! Is it me or does this model truck have this problem: the air coming out of the vents is not blowing out fast at all, on high/rec, or on max? Help, the air isn't very cold either! I don't know how many times, men (sorry) have told me things like, "It's not a new truck" or "Sometimes they just sound like that," no, the body isn't new (almost though, that's another story) but by-gosh everything else is! They just think I'm dumb.....boy have I learned a lot from this, I used to tell the guys at the tire shop (who are now good friends of mine) when I would bring the truck in there, "Should I bend over and grab my ankles today, or should I take off running?" They cracked up, they love me! Any suggestion will be appreciated....flowerchild64
  • khall1khall1 Member Posts: 2
    I definately notice the same thing in my 94 silverado... especially when shifting from Third gear to Overdrive... if your not pushing pretty hard on the gas it noticably studders and jerks you in your seat. I first noticed this problem when I decided to be a little more of a "pu$$y foot" and improve my gas mileage.... but the easier I was on the gas the more I noticed this problem. I cant wait to see if anyone has any replies to this problem...
  • khall1khall1 Member Posts: 2
    What was your solution?!?!?!
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Your truck is still under warranty unless you have exceeded the mileage, so take it back to dealers and have them deal with the flaking dash paint. :sick:
  • mstabbemstabbe Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a new silverado 2500HD in 2004. I noticed a engine nock at idle when it was cold. The dealer says its normal. To me it sounds like an old beater ready to let loose. I now have 17,000 miles on it and it runs great. The nock when cold still has me concerned.
  • tomhz71tomhz71 Member Posts: 2
    The AC in my truck doesn't cool the cab when the outside temp. gets above 90. The dealer said that the AC is within GM specs. Anyone else has this problem and what can be done to fix it.
    Great truck otherwise.
  • tenaha1tenaha1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Silverado LT 2500 HD Crew Cab with 8.1 gas engine and Allison transmission. 92,000 miles. Has been best truck I've owned. Problems started 4-5 weeks ago. When driving down the road the truck will die. It normally happens while sitting at a red light, but has happened once or twice on the highway. It will usually start after about 30 seconds, although it has caused me to run batteries all the way down twice and not start. First shop visit: shop said it was fuel filter or fuel pump. They checked filter, said it was ok, decided it was fuel pump. Replaced pump with AC Delco. Quit running again 3 miles of leaving shop. 2nd shop visit: Shop checked computer and said it was ignition problem and needed a new crank sensor. Replaced that after being down July 4 weekend. Quit again next day. 3rd shop visit; Took to local Chevy dealer. They said batteries were bad. Replaced batteries, same thing. 4th visit: took it to the biggest area Chevy dealer. They suspected burnt terminal on fuel pump. I disagreed- had new pump- but paid them to check it anyway. Bottom line: fuel pump ok. They gave up; couldn't figure it out. It just quit on me awhile ago on a busy city street. Anyone have similar problems?
  • dj8dj8 Member Posts: 6
    Repeat ..... Now that we have determined the truck name and style was changed...Does anybody know how to solve my problem? I have a 1990 standard shift, Chevy Silverado with 5.7/350 engine. After driving the truck and parking it for a few minutes, I get back in and it won't start. Doesn't even crank. Have replaced heat shields, clutch safety, fuel filter, starter and solenoid. Starter is not draggy either.
    Will eventually start when it cools down. This only happens in warm weather. Engine temperature is normal and everything else works as it should including electrical
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
  • judygirljudygirl Member Posts: 1
    hi my name is judy
    We have a 1991 chevy silvorado with w 1990 4.3 sticker on engine fan blades protector

    Yet our regisdtration and title say 1991 model
    it needed a throttle position sensor according to codes scan

    So ! We went to napa parts store and the parts man sold me a tps for this code 22 problem and that year 1991 truck

    I had my husband open the hood and try to install this sensor .....

    Just to find out it is not same as what is on the truck
    it looks and bolts totally differently
    original one looks rounder
    this one looks remarkably like a ford style one used on their throttle bodies etc ..
    what is the reason for this change ?

    And do we indeed have a Truck of 1990 or 1991 ?
    I just would like to know what you think would be wise to do as we dont have lots of money to go to a garage to have it fixed

    Also I personally know how to tell if this truck is a 1500 thing or whatever the other categories are ...

    the original sensor looks rounder if that makes sense I do not know alot about these parts

    Thank you for your time and consideration
    much appreciated
    sincerely JudyGirl
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    There should be a sticker on the inside of the drivers door, could be on the door itself, or could be on the door jamb. If the sticker is still there, a month and year of manufacture will be listed. See what that one says.

    As far as the part goes, I'd take it off and show it to the parts store clerk. That way he/she can pull both the '90 and '91 parts and compare them.
  • strekstrek Member Posts: 14
    Have you tried to jump start it when you have the problem? That would tell you real quick if the problem was battery related.
  • dj8dj8 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks,
    Battery and power are good. Have checked.
  • coheecohee Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1500 2002 Chevy Silverado in the shop as of yesterday. It just dies and I cannot begin to understand save for the fact that it turns over and tends to get fuel when something or another cools down and allows it to. What happens is it's nice and "cooled" off (the engine temp never gets high) and I am able to go about 70-80 miles and then it will start to "pull", the idle gets sluggish and when I slow down to 30 or 40...it dies and I cannot restart it for a few hours. I replaced the fuel filter, I know it is not the pump b/c I have heard it kick on time and time again and this is the second time it has done this...so it's obviously not the pump if the thing is getting gas. I'm thinking some kind of sensor is overheating? Is there a fuel sensor that will not code when scanned? My rear 02 sensors (the heater part of them) are dead, but I do not see them as having any affect on this problem. I do not want to keep putting this thing in the shop :( I'm just a poor college student for cryin out loud.
  • coheecohee Member Posts: 3
    i've posted such a message. I haven't done much as of yet, but change the fuel filter. I'm nearly certain it is not the pump. My gauges all read fine and there are no codes when it is scanned. It's in the shop now.
  • artfemartfem Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Silverado K1500 Crew Cab SLE Trim. Looking for reccomendations on a head unit that plays MP3s and has built in Sirius satelite radio. Any suggestions?
  • coheecohee Member Posts: 3
    This may be a long shot but have you look at the ignition distributor? It was a recall item on my truck. Really simple item.
  • dj8dj8 Member Posts: 6
    yes, has been changed
    Thanks
  • dj8dj8 Member Posts: 6
    Done that already.
    Thanks
  • bigabebigabe Member Posts: 2
    I have 1999 Silverado Ext Cab 3 Door. About eight months ago the low coolant light started coming on intermittently. I checked the reservoir and it looked normal. I added couple ounces of Antifreeze and the problem went away. Since than the problem came back twice and every time I added couple ounces of Antifreeze and the problem will go away. I mentioned the problem to a mechanic during the annual inspection and they pressured the system and did not find any leakage. However, in the past month I have been experiencing another problem. When the engine is shifting from 1st to 2nd gear I feel hesitation in the shifting (hick up), especially when it is cold, not as noticeable when the engine is hot. I took the truck to Adams Transmission and they checked the Transmission and changed the oil and the oil filter and they said the transmission is good but when they scanned the error they found error # 300 (engine miss fire). Any advice before I take the truck to the dealer?
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Most GM trucks have a hard 1-2 shift when cold (emission reasons).
    So not to worry..................

    You should keep a eye out on the loss of coolant tho. Gm has had
    a problem with the intake manifold gasket on late 90s 350 engine
    leaking coolant.
  • tpittytpitty Member Posts: 1
    I was driving down the road yesterday and my truck died. Fuel gauge was reading E so I thought it may have been the gas. I put in 10 gallons and still would not turn over. I checked the fuses and the 20 amp ECM fuse was blown. No big deal, so I pulled a spare, put it in and that one blew! I didn't want to wait for towing in the 110 Texas heat, so I put a 30 amp fuse in (since I was 5 minutes from home), and it got me to the house. Does anyone know why that fuse would continue to blow, and what wiring is connected to that particular line?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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