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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions



  • It starts perfect first thing in the morning. When it's warmed up it requires pumping the accelerator or holding it down. It could be the fuel pressure regulator. Can you direct me to the vacuum tube? I've never worked on the vacuum tube. Thanks for your help. :confuse:
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    See picture (sorry about size but its easier to see) its circled red. Its on the drive side of the engine. Just remove that hose that is on the top and see if gas leaks out. If so then its a bad regulator. A suggestion is after you drive your truck let it sit 15-20 min then check it. If you check it right after you turn it off you probably wont see any gas. Anything else let me know.

  • My truck has been have the same no starting and cutting off problems but the computer does not trip any codes. The problems are happening more often. The dealer keeps the truck for a few days and says "Could not duplicate the customers concerns when tested today".
    The service writer suggested replacing the ignition key because of the security system. Got a new key.
    Two weeks later it shut down and back up driving down the highway. Back to the dealer it goes.
  • I have read some other messages in regard to raising the front end 2 inches for free on a 2005 model. Does it work the same on the 2003 or do you have to buy the new torsion keys?
  • We just bought a used 2003 Silverado 2500HD LS with a plow. It has a June 03 in-service date and approximately 19,000 miles on the odometer so there are about 9 months and almost 17,000 miles left on the original 3 yr / 36K Warranty. The "Pre-Owned" dealership wouldn't allow us to have a mechanic look at it before buying because it was still under warranty. In hindsight I should have insisted or walked away. The day we picked it up (Sat 9/24) it we saw smoke coming from under the hood about two minutes after we left the dealership.

    We took it right back and they sent us home saying we needed to angle the plow and that the temp was "in the range" at 190 degrees. We angled the plow but needless to say by the time we got home about ten minutes later the display was flashing three warning messages including "engine overheated" and you could smell coolant coming from under the hood. The temperature was approximately 210 degrees at that point. I took some digital pictures of the warning messages.

    Also, when we first took the vehicle it looked like there was a quarter tank of gas but it turns out it was almost empty. So it seems like the gas gauge is off. Having read a couple of posts here it sounds like the "fuel sender" may be broken.

    After calling the Pre-Owned lot shortly after arriving home we were sent to the Chevy dealership they are affiliated with. I should also note that when we dropped it off I saw some bubbled / flaking paint alongside the bottom of some door trim. Regarding the engine overheating, they gave a preliminary diagnosis yesterday (Monday 9/26) of a broken clutch fan which my husband says may be a recall item. My husband is now wondering if he should insist on a "Compression Test".

    Obviously I have a couple of questions. I would appreciate feed back from anyone with knowledge of similar issues on the Silverado 2500, especially if they understand the Massachusetts Lemon Law. If the repairs are done pursuant to the original warranty would that interfere with my ability to enforce the Lemon Law if it would otherwise apply? (I haven't actually looked up all the provisions of the Lemon Law yet). Would the flaking paint be covered under warranty? The Chevy dealer seems to be trying to refer us back to the Pre-Owned dealer on the paint issue (!?!). Should I take it to another Chevy dealership for a thorough going over, including the flaking paint and fuel gauge? This is something I had intended to do, instead of the pre-purchase inspection, to try and catch any existing warranty or recall issues on this vehicle. I guess I am wondering how long I should hang in there with this Chevy dealership.

    I am a little surprised at how indifferent the Chevy dealership seems to be at this point, only because I have had incredible service from Subaru on an original and extended warranty. In fact my local dealer fixed a recall item during the pre-inspection for a used vehicle before I even bought it!! I had always assumed that there was a profit incentive to identify and fix these problems. I know the labor rate is usually lower but I would think they would have to be pretty busy for it not to be worth their time to fix any problems. Do I need to be more patient until their non-warranty work slows down or --as a practical matter-- do I need to be concerned about their relationship with the selling / Pre-Owned dealership. Could the Chevy dealership be trying to protect them from any Lemon Law issues? If so, I should probably get it to another Chevy dealership for a thorough inspection as soon as possible.

    Finally, we had intended to keep this truck for 10 to 15 years. We will be purchasing the GM "Major Guard" extended warranty for newer vehicles with less than 24K miles. The $0.00 deductible / 4 year / 60K mile plan is only $1,560.00. The $0.00 deductible / 5 year / 75K mile plan is $2,800.00. Years 6 and 7 do not have a 15K average mile option; basically you have to decide between 6 years at 12K a year on average (72K miles) for $4,305.00 or 7 years at 10K a year (70K miles) for $4,425.00. The difference in price between years 6 and 7 is minimal. But notice if you go for the extra year you are getting 2000 miles less; so it's not like you can cover all your bases as long as you are willing to spend the extra money. Obviously that depends upon driving habits, but in our family it is a close call.

    The other factor is the likelihood of frequent or expensive repairs after the fifth or sixth year. Consumer Reports reliability rating suggests this is a pretty reliable vehicle through the sixth year from the in-service date, which would be year four of a GM extended warranty; but Consumer Reports doesn't have any data that would predict reliability for the fifth year and beyond on a warranty.

    I would appreciate feedback from anyone out there with a 1998 or 1999 Silverado, preferably the 2500 on what I might expect in years 5, 6, and 7 from the in-service date of this truck as far as the type, frequency, and expense of repairs.
    Thanks, ~CathMac
  • I have a follow up to my previous posting, # 688, as noted at the end of that posting, but not in the Title, I am looking for advice on what to do for an extended Warranty. One option I didn't outline, but am considering, is to get a shorter term such as 3 years / 36K miles just to get me through the first couple of years but with the option of doing a private party sale and transferring the balance of the warranty at that time. It's important to note that GM "Major Guard" warranties do not run from the In-Service date but rather the date of purchase of the extended warranty and from the miles on the vehicle at the time the extended warranty is purchased.

    I also wonder if it is a mistake to put too much emphasis on the Consumer Reports reliability data since it is for the Chevy C/K 1500, Silverado (1999 model change through 2004). How much would the 1500 and 2500 really have in common? It occurs to me that anyone who knows about GMC Sierras C/K 2500 might also have some useful insight.

    Finally, regarding the Lemon Law, we have not had an opportunity to have it inspected yet (we didn't have the selling dealer inspect it for us). If we don't see action from the selling Pre-Owned dealership or the servicing Chevy dealership soon would anyone recommend having it towed to another dealership for an inspection before the 7 day period for an inspection lapses? If I am looking at the calendar correctly, that only gives us until Friday, 9/30.

    I would appreciate any advice or feedback.
    Thanks again, ~CathMac
  • I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 with under 50K miles.
    When the truck idles, the low fuel light goes on when I am not low on fuel.
    It doesn't matter how much gas I have.
    It turns off when I step on the gas pedal.

    Any suggestions or solutions ?

    I don't want to take it to a dealer so they could charge me an outrageous price to fix it.

  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    The Chevy dealer should have a TSB on the clutch fan replacement.........

    I also snowplow commercial...........My 04 2500 hd will also overheat with
    the plow on in the summer. You just have to fiddle with the position of the
    plow to get max. airflow thru the radiator...........................
    Also driving slower would help keep the temp down..................
    They even run 210 degrees in the winter when plowing or cruising with the
    blade in the winter.

    Does that truck have the factory VYU plow prep. pkg? (look at the code
    sticker in the glove box for code VYU).

    As far as "shoulda, woulda, coulda" I would of RAN from any dealer that
    wouldn't let me take any vehicle elsewhere for inspection before the sale.
    Esp. a pre owned plow truck....................

    A GM extended warranty is a good idea. Remember you have till near the
    end of the mfrs.3/36 to purchase. I know there is a price diff. between buying
    it now before 24k miles.
    Check these guys for the lowest prices I have found for GMPP warranty. aka Black POC
    There is also a $250 upcharge for plow trucks also...............

    Good luck and keep us posted
  • this is not related to gas mileage but have not figured out how to use this forum yet. I'm hoping that someone can give me a hand on how to shut off my silverado. Batter ran down and had to have it jumped. Once started the security light stays on. When I returned home I tried to turn the truck off but it keeps on running. Any ideas on how to shut the truck off?
  • Thanks for the input, given how long my postings were I was afraid no one would read them. Good news, he got the truck back yesterday and everything seems ok. I am trying to maintain a positive attitude and treat this as a reminder of the importance of an extended warranty, which means being careful to do the required maintenance at the correct times so that it is easily enforced.

    Of course we still plan on taking it to another Chevy dealership for a thorough inspection to catch any Warranty or recall issues and have them taken care of before the original manufacturer's warranty runs (approximately 9 months or 16,000 miles from now).

    I will pass the info about the summertime overheating (with the plow) on to my husband. Should we be concerned about 210 degrees with the plow in the winter? Is that "normal"?

    Oddly enough he has no specific plans to plow commercially but we are aware of the $250.00 surcharge on the warranty for damage resulting from plow use and the $250.00 surcharge for commercial use. We obviously will pay the plow upcharge and probably the commercial vehicle upcharge, just in case. (Although you can add the commercial upcharge later) The prices I quoted are from the Black POC dealership you referred me to. They were extremely helpful and informative over the phone.

    I would like to make the decision on the warranty by the end of the week/month since I was advised the warranty prices could go up as much as 7.7% at the beginning of next month. Otherwise I would wait until just before 24K miles when the price schedule changes. We are leaning towards the $0.00 deductible / 5 year / 75,000 miles since the price jumps $1,500.00 for the 6 year / 72,000 mile option (notice you get 3,000 miles less). Assuming the Consumer Report data for the Silverado 1500 has some relevance then the five year option would get us through the worst two years they have reliabity data for (looking at the 1999 and 2000). Unfortunately due to the major design change in 1999 there is no reliability data for 1998, which would give me a better idea of what we might be facing in the 6th and 7th year of a warranty.

    If you think of anything that might make me reconsider the year 6 or 7 option in the next couple of days (i.e.: frequence, cost of repairs) please post again. In any case, I would like to know a little more about the engine reaching 210 degrees with the plow on in the Winter. I'll be checking back.
    Thanks, ~CathMac
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    CATH.............There should be only 1 $250 upcharge on the GMPP

    I have been commercial plowing for a good 15 years and all with a full
    size GM. I have had my share of broken driveline parts- trans., trans. case,
    drive shaft. Never a motor or rear end problem.

    The transmissions I smoked were the 700-R never a L-480e.
    The only transfer case I broke was the auto-trac unit. The clutches burned up.
    I popped out a drive shaft or 5 because of u-joint wear...........

    But most repairs were on the 3 rd year before the warranty expired !

    Also note I heavy tow my boat or camper also..................

    I only kept 1 truck after warranty expired and had to BUY a new trans.
    Never again !

    Now i trade them every 3 seasons before the warranty expires.
    Because of my GM employee/family connection, Gm card etc.
    I just swap them in and change over the plow and drive a new
    truck for a LOW payment.
    I usually buy a 2500 hd x-cab and in my area of NY a low mileage
    unit has a high resale value and sells quick.

    No I don't lease. I BUY the truck then lease it to my business.
    Then its a complete write off on both ends...............

    What kind of plow do you have?

    Good luck and keep us posted..................... :shades:
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    a driveshaft or 5 haha thats a big difference :)
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Yea, It seems even with the new BIG stout driveshaft the u-joints are
    the weak link. As it should be I suppose. I am lucky to get 2 seasons
    outta them. I don't hammer the drivetrain either. Always a dead stop before
    I change gears. But 3 years and less than 30k miles mostly snowplowing
    or towing. Heck...My 04 just turned 13k miles and its almost 2 yrs. old !!!!!!!!!
    It makes for a tough life. I LOVE GM warranty service !

    That work kills just about ANY brand truck !!!!!
    But there are guys out there running plows on small rigs like the taco and
    swear by them being bulletproof !

    Just holding out for a new 07 GMT-900 next year ! :P
  • Okay, there is gas in the line. The photo was awesome. Now, where is the fuel regulator? Thanks
  • I purchased a 2001 chevy silverado HD 2500 and have had it for 2 months. 5 times now it wont start. It turns over fine and acts like it may start but it wont. If i wait about 10 minutes and try restarting it it will start then and be fine until the next time.

    Anyone know of what the problem could be???
    Any help would be appreciated...

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    See the gold thing that the vacuum line attaches to in the picture. Thats the FPR. Easy to remove.

    Relieve pressure to system (open gas tank cap)
    Remove the vacuum line
    With some plyers remove the retainer on the FPR
    Pull the FPR out
    Put new FPR in
    Attach retainer
    Plug vacuum line back in
    Put gas cap back on

    5-10 min job very easy!

  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Run the truck, Shut it off, Pull off line at rubber connection.
    If line is WET with gas then the FPR is bad and should be replaced.
  • I am new to the forum and am wondering if anyone can recommend a stainless steel performance exhaust system for my 04 Crew. I had a 90 Silverado that ran straight pipes and it sounded awesome. The problem was I was replacing the pipes every 2 years due to rust (live in upstate NY). My wife thinks I am crazy to pull off the stock stainless, but I am sick of having my neighbor's minivan be louder than my truck. I have looked at Gibson, Magnaflow and Dynomax and want to be sure which one gives the deepest, throaty sound, especially while idling. Heck, I can care less about the mufflers, I'll go straight pipes from the CAT again.
    I would appreciate any feedback regarding the sound of full systems versus straight pipes only. Also, would I have to remove the spare tire? Thanks for your time.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    he already checked it. It was leaking
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Hmmm......I didn't catch that! (Gotta get new glasses!!!! LOL!)

    That should solve his problem................COOL! :shades:
  • themomthemom Posts: 2
    We just bought my son a 2003 Chev 2500 Duramax 6-speed manual that he uses to pull our horse trailer occasionally. He loves the truck and the fuel mileage, but is worried that his clutch may be going out. (54,000 miles) Just would like to know if anyone has had similar problems. Also, anyone know the approximate cost to replace? Is there any adjustment that can be made to the clutch? That may be the only need. Thanks for the info!
  • just now got back to receive my replies, THANKS! for your reply Junster and Cybermac! any help is so greatly appreciated! I will defiantely pass on you guys suggestions! junster, did you buy your 93' new? My husband and I did, while he drove the truck, it was on the 3rd motor, (the one from the factory, 2 others were racing motors, which didn't take him long to blow them) the motor was out of the truck, and he was driving a friends jeep when he had his fatal accident. So, there sat a truck up on ramps or stands, and the motor under the garage, on a motor stand, parts neatly organized, he had even cleaned everything with a pressure washer! I had thought well, the truck was left (or spared) for a reason, or he would have been in it in the wreck. I thought well this will be a perfect starter vehicle for our son.
    At the time I had a brand new 2001 Mustang. I thought well eventually I would fix
    the truck up and use it to take my trash to the dump and transport my gardening supplies. Until a year later when coming home (sm. town) I pulled in to get gas, mind you small town, left my car running all the time, while running in the store to pay for my gas! Well, it caught up with me that night, I filled up, I was the only one there at this convience store I thought,I pulled up to the front door, left it running, it was late july,very hot time of the yr here in texas, i ran in the store, handed the girl my 20 and i turned around and my car was gone! anyway, how stupid, i know, expensive lesson learned, it was some crack-head, they caught up with him over the state line in louisiana, they chased him til he wrecked it , and got out trying to run! I wanted to know if the chase was going to be on COPS?
    Ha Ha, anyway, well that's when i decided to fix up the truck and drive it, thinking , it should be that expensive! OMG little did I know the can of worms I had opened! ha It has defiantely been an eye opening experience for sure, I know alot more than I ever did before, and thankful for that! My husband kept the truck in mint conditon it was his baby! I know if he can see from heaven, he would be so proud! its all new again, except the paint and interior. and the only thing inside left to do is the roof replaced (that cloth stuff is sagging) i have pinned it up for the mean time! Its always something so if you see something posted again from flowerchild64, you'll know the story! Thanks again for your time!
  • Hey, it worked! The part after tax was $70 instead of $40, but it was an easy fix thanks to you. Here's to you having success with whatever you do. Thank you very much!
  • I have a 94 with a 4.3l v-6 when i' am pulling my boat before i could run 75-80mph no problem now sometimes it will do that no problem and then you won't be able to go 55-60mph you can hold the gas pedal to the floor and won't go no faster. then it will just take off again it will have good pedal everything. the engine don't run bad or sound different. :confuse:
  • chap26chap26 Posts: 1
    The engine light came on, so I went to the dealer for warranty work (2003 1500 Silverado, 41K miles) and they turned off the light with the diagnostic computer. It came back on, and they told me to bring it back on Monday, and it could take anywhere from 1 hour to all day to find out the problem. I've driven it during this period, and have noted no problems in performance whatsoever. Should I worry about this, or could it be caused by a problem in the gas tank, or ????

  • I have a GMC Sierra 1500 4 wd extended cab pickup. My blower motors were working fine. I shut them down when I parked the truck. I left again approx. 10 min. later, and there was no air blowing when I turned them on. I have checked all the fuses I can find, fuse block under hood and in the truck. cant tell which relays are to what under the dash, as my over the counter chiltons has no really good diagrams etc. I tried to find a expanded schematic to no avail. I have had not much luck getting to view any pictures etc of the heater, A/C blower circuits. Can anyone help out with info on similar problems, or with a good schematic, and maybe some pictures too?
  • I have had this problem in the past too. There is a compressor cycling switch up by the top of the dryer cylinder. It is a 2 wire connector that snaps in. Whenever I have trouble with my A/C, it is usually the culprit. Try disconnecting it, and take a lagr paper clip and bend it out to a U shape. Use the paper clip to short across the 2 holes in the female end (the part you disconnected from the dryer cylinder). Now start your vehicle back up and turn on the AC. If your problem is fixed, you need to replace the male end of the connector that screws into the dryer cylinder. There is an O ring in there that sometimes gets some dirt etc in it also. This only takes a few seconds to try and has solved 80% of my AC issues in GM vehicles in the last 20 years.


  • Ok, I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado LS extended-cab long bed, just turned 81,000 miles on it. About 9 months ago, started having problems with the factory radio, it would take a few minutes to warm up, then would suddenly pop on. Over several weeks, it would take more time to come on, but would eventually come on. In April of this year, after driving the truck every day, went to start it the next morning, but it was dead. Put a new battery in it. Still no radio. Over the last 6 months, the truck will be fine most of the time, except that it still dies about every 2 days. Once you jump it to start it, sometimes it will be fine for more than a month, sometimes it will die again the next day. There is no pattern to this and the charging system seems to be working. Anybody have any ideas here? Obviously an electrical problem of some sort, but how do I figure out where and what? Thanks for any help!

  • To my knowledge there is no internal adjustment for the clutch because its a single plate clutch but you should be able to adjust the linkage, the adjuster should be by the pedal. It also should tell you in the owners manual, but if the clutch is slipping, since there is no internal adjustment for them the clutch needs to be replaced. If its only hard to get into gear than the freeplay in the pedal has to be adjusted. It should have about an inch or so of freeplay.
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