Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

firesource · October 2005

'05 Silverado Crew Cab 4WD >>> dealer noted a TSB in place for front end rattle was due to problem with Shock bushings. Shock was replaced --- problem WAS NOT corrected. Apparently there is another TSB on front end rattle that involves suspension part replacements. Will be trying this as soon as the parts arrive.

Problem very noticeable on un-even roads (where trucks are supposed to be driven!!)

Anyone else had this problem?

firesource · October 2005

I had an '03 2500HD with the snow plow prep package and a Boss 8'2" V-Plow. I experienced major overheating problems during normal driving with the plow on. There is definitely a TSB out there for clutch fan problems --- and you can find more details on how others addressed this on www.plowsite.com (great site with info from guys that plow for a living).

Good luck!

lhess · October 2005

04 duramax. Still under warranty so the dealer replaced the part for free. Took over a month to get the part in. Speedo stopped working Christmas Eve of 04 and didn't get the part and get it fixed until late Jan or early Feb 05. Don't know if you can fix it yourself or not. If you have to pay to have it fixed, keep your receipts. It sounds like a pretty common problem and wouldn't be surprised to see a recall at some point.

lhess · October 2005

to the dealer for an oil change. We're about to hit 36K miles so we made a list of the things we wanted checked prior to the end of the warranty. I'll keep it short, but here's our list:

1. Routine oil change - no problems.
2. Comp fuel filter replacment from GM - old fuel filter was full of rust. Had never changed it and they suggested switching gas stations to buy our fuel.
3. Had the seatbelt recall work done - who cared to begin with?
4. All the paint was coming off the volume knob for the radio - they ordered the part (for the second time, they lost the last one).
5. Needed state inspection sticker - right fog light not burning, they fixed.
6. A/C makes a ticking noise while it's running and even after the vehicle is shut off - they could not hear anything. Started right up within a mile of leaving the dealership. Will stop back by for that one.
7. They did discover that the freon was low in the A/C and added.
8. We complained of poor fuel mileage (15 or less highway or town). They found a fuel rail pressure sensor leaking, removed, inspected, resealed.
9. Steering wheel is off center about an inch and half. They suggested an alignment.
10. Paint coming off the dash around the steering wheel. Ordered a new one.
11. We complained of the turbo making a strange noise. No codes but they found an air inlet tube missing?
12. We had an engine oil leak. Right upper valve rocker cover leaking, they resealed.

And this was just one trip, we've already had the speedometer replaced, steering fluid pump replaced, a hose on the steering system replaced, a transmitter replaced, something nearly fell out of the rear-end and they tightened it...

I was shocked to see this many "things" wrong on a $40K+ truck that has not been exposed to harsh driving environments - we don't tow, we don't off-road, we don't haul anything heavier than a lawn mower.... And, we wonder what the truck will be like with a few more miles on it and no warranty?

eagle11 · October 2005

Did you find a solution to your problem? I have the simular problem... the low fuel message light comes on and the gas guage needle goes to zero... then goes back to normal after a few seconds or minutes. Happens regardless of the actual fuel level, if the truck is in idle or
in drive speeds going down the highway. Had the fuel filter changed but no change or effect.
Thanks

kwbrown · October 2005

No this is not a shady tree person, however in Jamaica where I live even when you take your vehicle to a dealer and you get it back you end up having more problems than before you take it there, so I always try to get usefull information before taking my vehicle in.

cofiveo · October 2005

I have a Silverado 2500HD CC 4x4 short box and just bought a 32' fifth wheel with a 10500 lbs. GVWR. According to literature, truck's rated for 10100 lbs. Anyone with the same truck pulling anything this heavy or close to it that could advise on performance and potential damage?

rayt2 · October 2005

If you don't fully load your fifth wheel & truckyou may get away with this. Keep in mind that you have to include the weight of yourself, passengers, camping gear, propane tanks, potable water and full load of fuel into the calculations.
I'm puzzled as to why you bought a unit rated for more than your truck can handle?? Did the salesman tell you "it will be OK" . :confuse: You have exceeded what your truck can handle.

Ray T.

khbush · October 2005

I think the capacity you are seeing is for travel trailers not fifth wheels. My 05 silverado 4x4 sb with a duramax /allison is rated to tow a fifth wheel weighing approx. 15700 pounds. What engine and trans do you have

pbridgees · October 2005

Eagle1,
I hope that someone posts you with the fix. I am having exactly the same problem that you are with my 2001 Silverado 1500.

kps1 · October 2005

I own the same truck and tow a 30' fifth wheel.(approx 9000lbs GVWR). It tows it okay, however any kind of long grade you definitly have to watch temp. I drove 2500 miles this summer towing and got approx. 8 mpg.

sseverance · October 2005

I have an 05 25hd cc, I'm putting on a plow, I'm trying to find a front shock that might handle the extra weight better. Plus I wouldn't mind the up grade.

triott · October 2005

I have a 2002 Silverado Z71 and the problem I'm have is a bit different than others I read on the board. This just started. When breaking (at a slow speed) my ABS chatters like I was on ice (doesn't happen all the time). If I release the brakes and reapply them it doesn't do it. Is this a defected module or what could it be?
Thanks.

Triott

jjtj · October 2005

Bilstein or Rancho both make a good shock for your truck.. I'm adding some Rancho RSX5000 shocks to my truck next week, I'll let you know the result. Also consider a set of Timbrens. They're a solid rubber piece that replace the standard foam bump stops between the frame rail & lower control arm. It limits how much the front end will squat when you lift the plow or go over bumps with the plow hanging off the front end. Also wears your ball joints less. They work really well with the GM trucks since they sit kind of low to begin with. I use them on my 2500 & they work really well. The front end only drops maybe 1/2" or so with an 8' Western plow. I bought mine here:

Timbrens

ryanbab · October 2005

there was a recall not to long ago for the abs system. I think they just announced it so far because I havent officially got my letter. I have read on other boards that people have had theirs repaired already.

Check with your dealer!

fritter · October 2005

same problem 2000 gmc sierra. what a lemon. My symptoms started with erratic fuel readings. I then noticed a dramatic fuel consumption change. I replace fuel filter but no change. My truck seemed to run fine until a couple of months went by. No start after engine warm mysteriously troubled me from time to time. I couldn't put any correlation to any other symptoms however I did notice the same noise under the dash even after engine was shut off until the door was opened. I thought it was some glitch with the security system. After a month or so of this I was driving on a busy 2 lane when the truck just died. I had plenty of gas as I just filled up. I couldn't hear the fuel pump so I waited for it to cool and to no avail still no pump. I replaced the pump and everything was great for about 2 days. I couldn't see any physical signs of burnt wires but if I reached up on the tank I could get the pump to start working. I thought it must be the plug. I cut the plug off of the harness and took the pins out with a small screwdriver. the plug was fine however the wires were internally corroded. (not burnt) I shortened the wires until corrosion was gone and soldered old pins back on. I rebuilt the plug end and put di-electrode grease on plug. I then hooked it back up and wa la!!! but a bing but a boom but a runs great fuel economy way better, and the fuel gauge isn't even erratic. I still hear that funny noise under the dash. must not be related. Hopefully this will help. I wouldn't count on it. I think mine is a special unit designed solely to rip out the couple of shreds of Chevy lover that I am. in fact here's a little recap of my troubles with the 2000- gmc I have the pleasure of owning.
1.seat belts 2times still bad
2. tranny 3 times and working on my 4th.
3. rear differential. 2times and still f-d up
4 ac no flow of air
5. doors falling off
6 leather seats tearing
7. tailgate fell of with replacement rear end on it backing into loading ramp it fell off and dented rear quarter panel and demolished tailgate.
8. all weather stripping on doors replaced twice and still coming loose.
9. intermittent license plate light since day one.
10. 3rd door plastic handle broken off
11 rear quarter panels cracked behind tires.
12.oh yeah transfer case replaced
13. throttle positioning sensor bad
14 oh piss on it gmc won't do a thing even though most of these problems occurred within the first 30,000 in fact the first tranny was gone at 6,000

good luck

fritter

fritter · October 2005

you must have the rear disc brakes on your truck.. The problem is with the brake rotors. Poor design especially on the drivers side mounting of the ebrake makes it so the rust from the rotors can't escape the wheel assembly thus constantly grinding on the under side of the e brake pad. You probably have noticed that both disc pads wear out unevenly and prematurely on the rear of the vehicle. The only fix I know of is discard the worthless ebrake. It doesn't work anyway and replace rear rotors with an after market type that has cooling holes drilled through disc. This will allow disc to stay cooler and help prevent the rust that is accumulating in the pad area. (by the way I'm kidding about discarding the e brake.) however worthless as it is it might come in handy changing a tire.

fritter · October 2005

mine wasn't the sensor but the wires in the plug going to the fuel pump/sensor. shortned plug until corroded wires were good and put plug back together. this took care of the problem you can buy a replacement plug "pig tail" about 19 bucks if your not handy with this sort of repair. It takes about half an hour and you shouldn't have to drop tank. Just on hook from sender and drop it over to the axle side and shorten. hook it back up and you should be on your way

gmcrooks · October 2005

I would strongly advise against having GM fix the fuel injection because my experience would prove that they don't know how to fix the problem!!!! I am in my 9th year of owning a 95 diesel Silverado. I bought it to pull my travel trailer and have lived to regret it (fortunately I am still alive after some close calls). (more)

I would further suggest that charging $2000 to fix a problem that they don't know how to fix is bordering on CRIMINAL, both from a personal safety and financial perspective. I am the original owner of this vehicle. I have had it at the GM dealer no less than five times for this fuel injection problem over the 98,000 miles that I have driven the vehicle. Also, this vehicle has never been serviced by anyone other than a certified GM dealer. Today is Sunday October 16 and I am planning to take it in again tomorrow. It almost left me, my wife, and two dogs stranded in the Lowes parking lot while on our way to our weekend retreat on the Gulf of Mexico. The vehicle cut off in the parking while at idle and re started with great difficulty. So we returned home. This telltale stall is first hint that things are not right. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TRIP THAT THIS VEHICLE HAS HIJACKED. (more)

Of course I haven't always known the extent of this problem. Only after repeated trips to the dealership, over the years, have I come to know that they can't fix or won't fix the problem. Early on, it never crosses your mind that they can't fix the problem. But after 9 years experience, I am here to tell you, they can't. The will put a patch on the problem that gets you 10,000 to 25,000 miles down the road till the fuel injection system fails again. The most confounding thing ,however, is GM knowingly putting the driving public in danger by having a very large vehicle, usually pulling or carrying a very large load-- since it is a diesel, positioned to lose power and control at freeway speeds endangering the vehicle's occupants and surrounding drivers alike with a high speed accident because of the sudden loss of power and resulting confusion that accompanies such loss. It makes no sense, but is a fact! Do yourself a favor and find a diesel shop that may know of a work around to fix the problem because GM doesn't t have it. By the way, I am still under warranty, 9 years now, with two to go. But a warranty that patches the problem is no replacement for a permanent fix. I continue to put up with it because I am in no position to buy a new truck capable of pulling a trailer. So I just have to plan my trips very carefully and have a good towing service, and take the truck in for repair on the first hint of a problem.

gmcrooks · October 2005

I would strongly advise against having GM fix the fuel injection because my experience would prove that they don't know how to fix the problem!!!! I am in my 9th year of owning a 95 diesel Silverado. I bought it to pull my travel trailer and have lived to regret it (fortunately I am still alive after some close calls). (more)

I would further suggest that charging $2000 to fix a problem that they don't know how to fix is bordering on CRIMINAL, both from a personal safety and financial perspective. I am the original owner of this vehicle. I have had it at the GM dealer no less than five times for this fuel injection problem over the 98,000 miles that I have driven the vehicle. Also, this vehicle has never been serviced by anyone other than a certified GM dealer. Today is Sunday October 16 and I am planning to take it in again tomorrow. It almost left me, my wife, and two dogs stranded in the Lowes parking lot while on our way to our weekend retreat on the Gulf of Mexico. The vehicle cut off in the parking while at idle and re started with great difficulty. So we returned home. This telltale stall is first hint that things are not right. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TRIP THAT THIS VEHICLE HAS HIJACKED. (more)

Of course I haven't always known the extent of this problem. Only after repeated trips to the dealership, over the years, have I come to know that they can't fix or won't fix the problem. Early on, it never crosses your mind that they can't fix the problem. But after 9 years experience, I am here to tell you, they can't. The will put a patch on the problem that gets you 10,000 to 25,000 miles down the road till the fuel injection system fails again. The most confounding thing ,however, is GM knowingly putting the driving public in danger by having a very large vehicle, usually pulling or carrying a very large load-- since it is a diesel, positioned to lose power and control at freeway speeds endangering the vehicle's occupants and surrounding drivers alike with a high speed accident because of the sudden loss of power and resulting confusion that accompanies such loss. It makes no sense, but is a fact! Do yourself a favor and find a diesel shop that may know of a work around to fix the problem because GM doesn't t have it. By the way, I am still under warranty, 9 years now, with two to go. But a warranty that patches the problem is no replacement for a permanent fix. I continue to put up with it because I am in no position to buy a new truck capable of pulling a trailer. So I just have to plan my trips very carefully and have a good towing service, and take the truck in for repair on the first hint of a problem.

fordhd · October 2005

I have a 1999 silverado 1500. Ran out of gas recently and will not start after filling up with fuel.Replaced fuel pump,still won't start.The fuel guage does not register either.I checked voltage at the pump connection and there is none.Wondering where to go next.HELP!

nflaig · October 2005

The truck has a vibration around 60kmh. and when driving down the road as the truck bounses because of dips in the road etc, it makes a moning noise that sounds like it's coming from the rear end.. ?? I've had it in for servicing a few times already. They check it out, charge me a bunch of money, and tell me nothings wrong with it.. ? Does anyone have any ideas???

mitzij · October 2005

I'm willing to bet your fuel level sensor is sticking. It's attached to the fuel pump (in the tank) and is a real fun job to do. Expect a few hundred for the part, and a couple of hundred in labor.

park11 · October 2005

2002 Silverado, 4x4, 6.0, 3.73, auto

In first gear there a rattle that comes from the manual transfer-case lever. Sorta sounds like an empty pop can banging around. It's not real noisy, but enough to be annoying. It only happens in 2wd mode. If I apply a little forward or backward pressure on the lever the noise stops. Switch to any 4x4 mode, noise is gone. Anyone know what might be causing this or is experiencing the same problem.

triott · October 2005

I just got a recall notice in today's mail from Chevrolet which should take care of the problem I posted above. It says, "These vehicles may have a condition permitting corrosion to occur between the front hub/bearing assembly and the wheel speed sensor. If the brakes are applied while the vehicle is traveling at a speed of greater than 3 mph but less than 10 mph, the corrosion may cause an unwanted anti-lock brake system (ABS) activation. If this condition occurred where stopping distance is limited, a crash could occur. They will fixed the problem for free.

gmrules · October 2005

remove driveshaft and ck to see if the u joints are very stiff , if they are they will create a noise and vibration through the entire cab . good luck

z71bill · October 2005

Since the redesign in 1999 4x4 and 2 wheel drive Silverados have had basically the same front suspension - all you need to do is adjust the torsion bars - take it to a shop that knows what they are doing - or is honest - these guys are either completely stupid or are just trying to get your money.

If you have a jack to raise the front end - a tape measurer and a socket wrench you can raise it yourself -

Jack up the front to take the weight off the wheels - then give each adjustment nut on the torsion bars about 5 turns - drive around the block - measure to make sure the truck is level & raised the amount you want. Adjust if needed - repete until you get it right. The number of turns to raise 2.5 inches may not be the same on each side (seems like it should be - but its not always) Also a good idea to keep track of how many turns you do to each side - so you can put it back to stock if you want.

Would then be a good idea to get a front end alinment.

BTW - if you don't know what torsion bars are - just crawl under your truck - you should see two steel pipes that go from the front end to a cross member (metal piece that goes between the frame rails - its about even with the rear door handles)

turtleboy99118 · October 2005

I have an electrical problem with my interior dome light/ dash lights. When ever i want the dome light to come on i have to play with the door switch that turns it on whenever you open the door. As soon as the light comes on all my lights start flashing. I know it is probably a bad ground but i have no idea where to start looking for that ground any suggestions? :confuse:

kwbrown · October 2005

I don't think the 2wd carry a torsion bar, however I am sure that the 4x4 does carry one. If this is so how would you correct such a problem in a 2wd. Because I am having the same problem, in fact I have taken my truck to the dealer on more than one occasion and it came back with the same problem. I have a 2wd 2000 silverado.

sdowdy1 · October 2005

I am getting a very bad clunk when my 03 silverado shifts from 2nd to 3rd. It does it under load/medium to hard acceleration and cannot be heard most of time while driving slow. I've read the driveline clunk posts and I agree that may be normal like from reverse to drive and back. My question is why from 2nd to 3rd and not any other combination. It also does it when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. The dealer says it is normal of course and it may be but I'd like some other opinions and possible fixs

southerner28 · October 2005

I have EXACTLY the same problem to the letter. Went to the dealer today and was told that the entire instrument cluster had to be replaced. Part costs over $400 and labor was over $200. Did you ever get any responses?

rothdogg8 · October 2005

changed the oil in 94 silverado and there was gasoline in my oil.can anyone tell me why?

ajw2 · October 2005

I had a 2000 silverado and had the same problem. There is a tech solution for it. I found a reputable dealer who knew what he was talking about. He change the fluid in my transfer case to a special type (it was blue) can't recall the name but the clunk went away and stayed away. I have heard of this on other 2000's. Your not
alone. Hope this helps

kot1 · October 2005

I bought a new 2005 Silverado crew cab, 5000 mi. now that has a constant vibration in steering wheel, pedals & floorboard, even when idling, varies with rpms. After replacing a howling pwr steering pump the dealer says the vibration is normal. They say GM engineered the vibration into the vehicle & they will not address the problem. I am getting driver fatigue after only 40 or 50 mile trips.

badbowtie · October 2005

Does the engine have a hard time starting after it is warmed up?

truck5 · October 2005

I have a 2005 Silverado Ext Cab, and I'd like to be able to lock my tailgate. Has anyone every Tried the Pop&Lock products. They make a Power tailgate locking mechanism, as well as manual key systems. If you've used any of these products tell me your opinions. Also, if you know of another product please let me know.

Thanks, Joe

bradwell · October 2005

My 2002 tahoe with 42000 miles and automatic transmission will not back up. It still operates in forward gears. The transmission fluid does not appear or smell burnt. The engine seems to be under some load when idling in park. Any ideas?

nflaig · October 2005

Thank you so much for the info, I got the U-joints changed, and the noise is gone.. But it seems to vibrate worse now.. It's through the whole truck, and it seem to get really bad at the speeds listed above. As I slowly increase the speed the vibration seems to speed up as well kinda fading itself out.. Could ya help me on this one now.. ??? P.S. Thank you so much for your help..

97k350 · October 2005

My truck did the same thing when it was good and heated at the end of 30 miles.
Took it twice to a good transmission shop. He was able to duplicate it. Apparently the valve opening in the valve body is restricting. My "hard shifts" were 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 and less "hard shifting" when down shifting the same points. The valve was replaced with an aftermarket valve by the same guy. It might be a press-in/ press-out affair, possibly even drilling and tapping or chasing threads even, i dont know. A skilled trans specific place can do it. The valve company was called "Sonics"? Cost $60 for the valve and labor another $100 or so. Very Happy with results. I recommend that guy to a lot of people.

97k350 · October 2005

EGR Position is getting EGR getting stuck, Nifty equipment can send EGR a certain voltage for each position (open to closed) for checking. Short of buying a new EGR?

basstrackerz71 · October 2005

I bought my truck about a month ago with 32000 miles, i first noticed a problem when i was at the boat ramp going to back my trailer down, i was in reverse waiting on a guy to get out of the way, when i let off the brake it was like it wasnt even in gear, i hit the gas and it slammed into reverse, then the next week i was on my way to work and at a stoplight it did the same thing in first gear. I was at a drive up and heard a weird clicking noise in first gear it made the noise 3 times every time before it shifted to 2nd.Took it to the dealership and the fixed it, the reverse gear carrier had came apart....and the first gear looked bad too. They replace the gears, carrier and planetarys, and no noise since. Any one else had this problem?

bleaux · October 2005

I have a new truck with less than 4000 on it . since day one there is a loud clank .when coasting in second gear at 14 miles per hour and you accerlerate. dont know if its the rear end or the tranny. had it to the dealer . they say its normal.surely this is not normal in a new truck. when in a parking lot and you do it and there are people even near the truck they look and have actually said theres something wrong with the truck.does anyone else have the same problem.any advice.fixes.drives me crazy in an brand new truck.

jdsmitty84 · October 2005

I have a 2000 silverado. The gas gauge was going hay wire a few months ago, so I replaced the fuel pump/sending unit. Still every once in awhile it doesnt want to start right away and when it finally does start all the gauges and caution lights/lamps/warngning lights come on and stay on and flash. Also my fog lights do not work, bulbs are good, fuses all good, relays all good, and i even replaced the fog light switch and the head light switch.

Has anyone else had these problems or similar problems?

glassman2 · October 2005

I am having trouble posting to this board. So I used the reply function.
I have a 2000 Silverado 4.3 litre and it quit running. I have spark and the fuel pump is running.
I need some trouble shooting advice... is this a common problem?
glassman2

m_boise · October 2005

Recently had an aftermarket cd player installed on my 05 siverado. I was informed that I would need an interface that would preserve my warning chimes. I got one from PAC. The problem is that only the initial chime when I start the truck was retained. No chime when a door is open, seatbelt is off, or when I leave the lights on when leaving the truck. Not only are these warnings now absent, but the chime when I start the vehicle is very loud and harsh.

I did notice that when I disconnected the battery while working on my truck, all the normal chimes returned--but only temporarily.

The manufacturer of the PAC interface says that all the chimes should work, while the stereo install guy said that the only chime this product replaces is the one I'm hearing. One of them is full of it, and I'm sure neither wants to help solve my problem. Anybody here experienced this?

epting · October 2005

I have a 95 chevy 1500 350 tbi. it has a miss at idle. I have done all i can to fix the problem. does anyone have any ideas

z71bill · October 2005

The 2 wheel drive Silverado has torsion bars - it has since the redesign in 1999. If you have a 2WD take a look under your truck and you will see them. Same set up for the Tahoe & Suburban - both 4x4 and 2wd are set up the same.

I know this for a fact because I have both - 1999 Z-71 4x4 and a 2001 2WD.

con3975 · October 2005

When I start my truck (2001 z71) and start moving, there are from 2 to 4 different beeps coming from underneath the truck - most of them seem to come from the back end. However, when I have been on the interstate for a while, the beeping goes away for a while. I have also noticed other trucks making the same noise when they take off. Any ideas?

wingsh00ter · October 2005

My 2000 Chevy Silverado has the GM ABS problem. I received a recall notice last week to bring in the vehicle for the sensor work to be completed. I dropped the truck off last night. I got a call from the dealer today while they were working on the vehicle.

The abs sensor has been replaced, but the truck still has the false abs activation. The service manager told me the issue is the "hub assembly" and it would cost just under $500 to repair. I told him to hold off and I would contact GM customer Care.

Called GM Customer Care. After having me answer about a dozen questions that they used to figure out how much money I spend on purchasing GM vehicles and where I have them serviced, they told me there was nothing GM could do for me. They told me there was no recall issued for the hub assembly.

I explained the vehicle is still safe to drive due to the outstanding ABS malfunction. I also told them that GM should have issued a recall to repair/replace the hub assembly in addition to the ABS sensor since they work hand in hand together.

I have contacted the NHTSA to file a complaint on the recall and GM avoiding to fully address the ABS issue.

My guess is GM is trying to apply the 80/20 rule. If they can fix 80% of the ABS issues with addressing the sensor only, they can avoid having to issue a recall on the hub assembly because the complaint numbers can be reduced.

What they should be doing, is fixing the hub assembly on the vehicles that require the work to be done in order to get the ABS working properly again and not have another ABS matter publicized again.

Even bigger slap in the face, when I went to pick up the truck, they wanted to charge me $40 diagnostic charge to tell me the problem still existed and it is the hub. I refused to pay the $40 and they gave me my truck. Customer satisfaction does not appear to be a GM focus.

Disappointed GM owner,

N

steve62 · October 2005

sound funny but grease your leaf springs on where they overhang one another the springs wind up and clunk

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Chevy Silverado: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions