Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

1131416181930

Comments

  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    After a day of off roading in mud I made the mistake of using a high pressure car wash to clean the mud off my leaf springs. The next day they started squeaking / creaking - it drove me nuts - so I made an even BIGGER mistake - I sprayed them with WD-40 - a few days later the creaking came back - louder than ever - so I tried motor oil, brake grease, liquid wrench - spray silicone and a few other things.

    Every time the creak came back within a few days - also when I took off from a stop sign - I would get a clunk noise from the springs binding.

    I finally went back to the car wash - cleaned the springs off. The binding clunk went away - but the creaking was horrible. So I took a 4-sale sign that was made out of thin plastic - cut it into strips about a 1/4 of an inch wider that the leaf - then wedged a crow bar between the leaf and stuck the plastic in between - that was about 3 years ago - no creak - no clunk - no problems.
  • wingsh00terwingsh00ter Member Posts: 9
    You should be able disable the running light by pushing the "dome overide" 4 times within 6 sec. I have a 2000 Silverado that allows me to overide the running light/autmatic headlights by doing the above procedure.
  • snwbdrsnwbdr Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem as wingshOOter in post #771. My antilock brakes have gone, in two trucks. My personal truck, which I own, and my work truck, my boss owns. I have not taken it to the dealer yet, but what I did was take the fuse out from under the hood. It kills the antilock brakes so I am not sliding in to traffic anymore. It does leave the antilock brake and emergency brake lights on in the dash. Small price to pay to be able to stop. I too would like to contacted the NHTSA to file a complaint on the recall and GM avoiding to fully address the ABS issue. How do I do this? Also I know there was an issue with the break lines too. I think they were replacing them too. If anyone knows about this could you PM me and let me know, so when I go in to the dealer I know what I am talking about. Thanks snwbdr.
  • deckapedeckape Member Posts: 1
    I feel like a total moron but I have no clue about how to get my truck back. I have a '94 Silverado V8 that will start, run for a second or two, then just die no matter how much gas I give it. I'm thinking it is a fuel problem but the strange thing is that, if I try to re-start it without turning the ignition off, it won't turn over. However, if I turn it off completely then try to turn it over it'll start right up then die again. So, could it be electrical?
    I want to take it to a shop, and I would, if I could get it to run long enough to get it there. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and a "quick fix" to get me to a mechanic would be great.
    Thanks
  • bababooey1bababooey1 Member Posts: 2
    i had the same problem it was the rearend yoke where the driveshaft attaches to {universal joint} mine was cracked ready to break had to order it from detroit
  • bababooey1bababooey1 Member Posts: 2
    does anyone have a repair list on what parts need to be replaced for whatever codes come up? i bought a scanner and chiltons book and it says what the codes are but not how to fix the problem i have a 2000 1500 series 2wd silverado
  • phaizonphaizon Member Posts: 1
    My Tahoe gas gauge bounce from full to empty at any given time. I tried switching gas. I can fill the tank up and it will still stay on empty. Have any one experienced this problem and if so, what did you do?
  • dps2dps2 Member Posts: 3
    I also have a 2003 Chev Silverado extended cab with the exact same problem. I have extended warranty. Already had it in shop once. They checked for codes and the things re-set itself. they said it worked fine. Today, it went ballistic. Speedo meter was pinned fully clockwise. Hangs up even when engine switched off. Going back to shop first thing Monday morning. Has anyone reported any fix for this? Spoke to service tech today. Showed him the situation. He said it looked like possible cluster replacement needed. I'll know Monday.

    Patrick
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I wish it were as easy as you've conceived. Much of the five volume GM Service Manual is devoted to step by step procedures to determine what problem may have registered a DTC. I don't know any other source for a do-it-yourselfer. If there's an alternative, please post.

    http://www.helminc.com

    -David
  • flyer2flyer2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Z71. While driving down one of our local streets I suddenly notice smoke coming up from the right rear portion of the hood. I immediately stopped, shut down, opened the hood and noticed the splash guard just inside the right front fender was burning. It was melting away and parts of it had fallen down on the motor mount and proceeded to burn the spark plug wires off that side of the engine. It also burned several other wires into. We simply could not figure out what caused this to happen. Has anyone else had a problem like this. It happened very fast, a matter of seconds.
  • nikki4nikki4 Member Posts: 1
    Mine is doing the same thing. Seems like GM would do a recall on this, as the problem is widespread.
    My dealer quoted me $800+ for the fix. Can you believe that?
    My solution will be to buy a Tundra when I replace trucks later this year.
  • hduserhduser Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 siverado 1500, and am experiencing a hard to steer problem when idling and turning to the right. Have already replaced power steering pump but problem still exists. Truck has 130000 miles. Does anybody have a solution?
  • greta87greta87 Member Posts: 1
    1999 LS 2500, ext cab 4x4, 100,000 miles. I have this gurgling noise in my truck also. Recently had cooling system flushed out and found there is no restrictors in the heater hose as had been previously suggested to be the problem. Heater core still puts out hot; could this need to be replaced to remedy the problem? Noise is very annoying. Any suggestions out there?
  • bitwarriorbitwarrior Member Posts: 1
    Last week I started my 3500 diesel dually (2003) and all the guages were dead. The info display and dash lights were all on but the needles all stayed full left, not even a bounce on any of them. I shut it off and started it again and everything woke up and worked fine. They were fine until this morning when they died again and didn't come back. Has anyone else seen anything like this? I'm hoping it could just be a loose harness wire somewhere but I don't want to rip the interior apart without some kind of clue.
  • ward002ward002 Member Posts: 1
    I've been having front end problems in my truck (02 2500HD ext. cab sb 4X4). I'm getting a very loud thump in my front end when driving off road or if I hit a bump at low speed, usually about 5-10mph. I've been to two dealers with no succes fixing it. I've been through the shocks and torsion bar so far. Anybody else had this problem?
  • sdowdy1sdowdy1 Member Posts: 3
    I had a similar problem but it was with a Ford and a little older. What happendon mine was that leaves had got sucked in the cowl and then the heat resistores in the blower motor caused them to ignite. This is probably not your problem but thought I would post it.
  • intermitac05intermitac05 Member Posts: 3
    I am a diehard gm owner, and have been since I was kid. This problem is beginning to make me wonder. This is a great vehicle except when the air fails and its 90 + outside.

    Has anyone experienced this problem? The AC began having intermittent problems at 4000 miles. While in Auto, with Recirculate on it would switch the fan from your face to the floor and begin putting out heat in both zones (it was as if the unit was possessed, it would move the fan at-will). The local dealer claims they found a connector near the drivers side left foot that was intermittent. However the unit still will not stay in Recirculate.

    After the dealer serviced it the 4th time for the same problems they tell me it is operator error. I have talked with the Chevy rep and he will not even confirm a problem.

    None of my friends that have this truck have this problem. Any ideas?
  • sdowdy1sdowdy1 Member Posts: 3
    I have an 03 silverado with the digital display control and the recirculate quick working. The air still worked fine but not to the level when recirculating. I took it in and they said it would be 500 dollars to fix because of the difficulty to remove. I decided to keep it like it was. A few weeks later it started working but always popped real loud while trying to open and close the recirculation door under the dash. This drove me nuts so I just unhooked the wire controlling the motor to the door. I now have peace but no recirculation. I do know that with the digital display control that recirculation will not stay on while on the floor vents. It has to be on face vents. If on the floor it will just blink and then turn itself off. Hope this helps.
  • raven268raven268 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 05, 7000 miles on it, trans slips every once in a while. squealing noise and knocking coming from the mid section of the vehicle. brought it to the dealer they keep blowing smoke up my you know what. not happy at all with this purchase or this dealer. i own a lawn care business and i was towing only 1 mower on a small trailer and it felt like i was dragging a elephant behind me. :( :lemon:
  • con3975con3975 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 silverado z71, and lately there has been this strange "clicking" noise whenever I press on the gas. It goes away when I let up, and the noise speeds up when I accelerate. I suspect something to do with the fuel pump, but I really have no idea. The clicking seems to be coming from underneath the truck. Help please.
  • randy14randy14 Member Posts: 2
    This has been going on in my 1500 chev truck for over a year, i got it put on the computer and a faulty fuel level sensor is the cause of it. It doesn't affect the trucks performance but it will get worse where your gage will never work again. Chev's solution to it was a 12 dollar bottle of fuel injector cleaner to fix it, but it did not work for me.
  • cowboy22cowboy22 Member Posts: 1
    Hey,
    If you find anything out about the Service 4WD light, please let me know. I am having the same problem. Thanks
  • chevrock22chevrock22 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 silverado 4wd z71. Its a 5 speed, everytime a push the clutch in to shift gears the rpm's go up about a grand. If i shift at 1500 it will ethier stay there when i push the clutch in or go to 2000. It will eventually go down but it takes a couple seconds, I think its the throttle cable. But im not sure.
  • saddaddysaddaddy Member Posts: 566
    As a prospective buyer, can someone tell me how well the 3.42 gear ratio performs in the newer (05-06) Silverados or Sierras. I was surprised that you could not get a 3.73 axle in the ext cab z71 models anymore. Is this correct? It seems that lower ratio would really be needed for any kind of towing or stepping up to say 285-series tires.?. How does this ratio help gas mileage? Thanks for any input.
  • randy14randy14 Member Posts: 2
    does anyone know chev's warranty's for cataylic convertors
    say for a 2000 1500
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I believe that GM only removed the 3.73 for a short period at the beginning of the run of 05 models, but from reading elsewhere it was a popular option, so it was added back on.

    I can't compare the two ratios, since I haven't driven an 05 (or a 3.42). My 2004 has the 3.73 in it and runs very well. Check around the web for other truck forums. In several of these members have posted about larger tires, gear ratios, towing, etc. and will probably have answered your questions before you even have to spend the time typing them in again. ;)
  • doomymndoomymn Member Posts: 1
    Similar. The front end knocks in my '03 1500HD were being caused by the steering shaft. They greased it. This lasted for about 20,000 miles. Also had this prob with my '00 Tahoe, '01 Impala and '03 Vue. May be worth mentioning this to your dealer next time.
  • ssbssb Member Posts: 3
    I just had the same thing happen to my 03 silverado. I was in Colorado in the rain on muddy roads. Same speedometer problem. Left CO in the rain driving on paved roads. After more than 10 hours in the rain the speedometer is working perfectly. I think that some how the mud on underside of the truck interfeared with the sender or receiver for the speedometer. I'm curious to see if you had muddy conditions.
    By the way you don't have to restart the engine to get the speedo to drop back 5mph, just turn the key off then turn the key on and just bump the starter over.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Greta; This problem has been discussed either here or at "GMC Sierra: Problems, Solutions" in the recent past; Word search "gurgling" for background. I know of no other cause for gurgling than air trapped in the cooling system, and suspect you may have chosen the wrong mechanic. Although flushing causes no harm, it may not have been necessary. I don't your truck so can't give you any instructions. On mine, 2002, the expansion tank is the highest point in the system. Any trapped air is naturally and automatically released there. If I were you, short of figuring out how to release the air myself, I would let my fingers do the walking (driving), asking this specific question after describing the truck and symptom, "Do you know how to release the trapped air in the cooling system which is causing gurgling through the heater core"? In other words, don't look for analysis. Look for solution. And don't accept anything but a simple "yes". It shouldn't take a genius to figure it out. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

    -David
  • rideadellrideadell Member Posts: 1
    I have a 05 2500 hd 4X4 with 3.73's and i love it, power is there, MPG is what i expected out of a 3/4 ton truck. Also i have no problems with my 24 foot boat. Weight is around 4500 LBS i think.
  • indian3indian3 Member Posts: 14
    Is it necessary to get the throttle body cleaned every 25k miles? The dealer I go to recommends it and charges about $90 for the service.
  • 03duramax03duramax Member Posts: 1
    Patrick,
    Did you ever find out what was causing the problem with your speedo? Mine will not move from 35mph no matter what I do.
    Tom
  • halofanhalofan Member Posts: 37
    Actually I was looking for someone who is having the same problem. I have an 04 4x4 crewcab with 16K miles and am having the exact same types of problems. I recently had a steering shaft replaced for another problem and am wondering if they didn't put something back together right. I get the same sluggish, almost hard to turn to the right.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Buy a can of TB cleaner at any autoparts store (appx $4) and clean yourself its simple. Doesnt take much time either.

    $90 is robbery to me.
  • ilovexsportsilovexsports Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 chevrolet 1500 with 164,000 miles on it and Im wondering is it possible the gear box will go? The reason why Im wondering this is becuase a while ago my 1999 suburban got into an accident were the other car hit directly on the front passenger side wheel and I believe it cuase some problems with the gear box but according to my insurance agent it was just becuase of the age and number of miles on it, and my new truck has the same engine as the suburban. Should I believe the agent or not? :confuse:
  • jasonc225jasonc225 Member Posts: 1
    i am trying to put a 305 engine whee as 350 went in a 1986 chevy silverado. i would like to use the stock exhaust but when i went to transfer them to the new motor i realized that they cover the place for the dipstick. is there some way to fix the problem? there is not a place on the other side of the motor for the dipstick and i dont want to buy new exhaust unless i have to.
  • dj5150dj5150 Member Posts: 1
    Think my starter is shot....just clicks when I try to start.....Is it easy to replace, or should I have it towed?
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Is your battery dead? Do the headlights work?
    Could be just a bad battery cable or connection.
  • ssbssb Member Posts: 3
    Look at message #802 and let me know if it is the same problem.
  • hex173thex173t Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 1500 2wd, rack and pinion steering. When turning at slow speed, where the steering wheel turns 1 complete revolution or more, there is a thumping sound. I lifted the front end up to wiggle the tires. I removed the boot on the rack and found the drivers side inner tie rod had play, but I can't see anything to turn to remove it. No flats for a wrench or anything that I can see to put a tool on to remove it from the rack. Any ideas?

    Also, during my reading of the posts on this board, there was mention of someone apparently having a similar thumping sound at low speed. It was fixed by greasing the steering shaft? Does anyone have any details on this, exactly where and how (any disassembly) to lube it?

    Thanks,
    Bill
  • intermitac05intermitac05 Member Posts: 3
    I hope you have saved all documentation, most states have a :lemon: law. In FL when you take a new vehicle back 3 times for the same problem that is when you may invoke the :lemon: Law. However, persistance must be a vurtue, I am still persuing the lemon law since August. Just don't quit until they resolve your issue.
  • gmtruckguygmtruckguy Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 silverado 1500 with the V6, 85000 miles. I know it has water in the distributor cap because it runs rough on moist mornings and runs fine for a week or two after I clean it out. However, recently it has been running rough, like misfiring or something, after the engine is warm at about 70 miles per hour. Any ideas at all? no service engine light is on, it just shakes a little like a misfire or transmission problem maybe.
  • firesourcefiresource Member Posts: 17
    Well - I'm hoping someone can help me out here...

    05' Crew Cab 1/2 ton LS >>> @ about 4500 miles, I started noticing a rattle in the driver's side front end on uneven pavement (from over the slightest bumps to dirt roads). I took the truck in and the dealer noted that there was an advisory on front end shock problems. They replaced the shock - and this DID NOT correct the problem.

    I took it back again, and 3 mechanics spent 3 days trying to diagnose and fix the problem. Collectively, they can all hear the noise - however cannot find the source. They have communicated with the Chevy TAC engineers - however have not fixed the issue. They have trouble shooted everything they have seen in the past - and cannot id the problem. It sounds like a rattle in the driver's front tire area (axle, shock, etc.). They have actually replaced the front tire - so I know this is not the problem in itself.

    Can anyone offer any advice?

    Thanks,

    Bill
  • likearocklikearock Member Posts: 13
    :lemon:

    I have been having the same problems with my 2004 z71 silverado crew cab. I have taken to the dealer several times and as many as 4 other dealerships and get the same reply , that there is a G.M bulletin out on this problem and it is NORMAL. To my way of thinking, NORMAL would mean every truck does this not just a select group, therefore it can't be called normal.
    I have just recently developed another loud clunking in the drive line, I took the truck back to the dealership and guess what!! Whala!!!! another G.M service bulletin stating this too is normal for SOME of these trucks. I think General Motors new customer service SOP fix is just to post another bulletin stating this is normal, like this is supposed to make it all better and give you a warm fuzzy feeling that they have a bulletin posted that says the problem with your $40,000 truck is really not a problem because they have a bulletin on it stating this is NORMAL. I hope all you good people have better luck dealing with General Motors than I have had. I have made up my own service bulletin on these problems I have experienced with my truck, I just hope I get the chance to tell them where to post it.
  • jumokejumoke Member Posts: 2
    This just happened to my 2500hd recently. I was under warranty and GM couldn't find an exchange. Mine was sent out for repair, nine days later I was on the road. Sorry to give you the bad news. I think there should be a recall on this. I guess they need more breakdowns.
  • jjtjjjtj Member Posts: 80
    I replaced the shocks on my 2000 2500 last year.. I had the same loud rattle from the driver's side wheel. It turned out that I hadn't tightened the bottom shock mounting bolt quite enough. Seems like this would've been addessed with the new shock, but you might check it out. I think mine took a 7/8 socket if I remember correctly. Once I snugged it up, the rattle disappeared.
  • rmchevyrmchevy Member Posts: 2
    My brakes are failing when I turn sharp and apply the brakes at the same time. The pedal goes almost to the floor, and it vibrates wildly. I ran over a curb because it wouldn't stop. Please, if anyone knows about a problem with the anti-lock brakes let me know.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Go here to get the skinny on these wonderful GM quality (Kelsey Hayes)brakes. http://www.absfixer.com
    There is also a recall on the sensors you should have been notified of.

    Ray T.
  • deecee2deecee2 Member Posts: 1
    Need information on how to access the blower motor and blower resistor module on 1999 Siverado 1500 extended cab. Thanks for the help.
  • nmertznmertz Member Posts: 27
    mine wasn't the sensor but the wires in the plug going to the fuel pump/sensor. shortned plug until corroded wires were good and put plug back together. this took care of the problem you can buy a replacement plug "pig tail" about 19 bucks.....

    fritter, where did you get the pigtail? At a "stealer" or at a parts store? Do you have a part numbe for it?

    Thanks
This discussion has been closed.