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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I would recommend getting the tires balanced and maybe aligned and see if that takes care of the vibration. I am not sure why a engine would vibrate at a certain speed. Good luck!!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Get the water pump done, too.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Every since I bought a new Ford in 1968 and took it back to the dealer to have it serviced, I ALWAYS check the oil level and invoice after the service. The Ford dealer way back then, different dealers since then, and the VW dealer now, frequently put in too much oil or the wrong oil. I have had my 2004 TDI serviced twice, and each time I have pumped out a liter of oil afterwards. (I now have a good supply to top it off when needed, which it hasn't needed.) The concept that different engines require different amounts and types of oil is unfathomable to many of the employees assigned the task. These are usually not the trained VW service techs. In other words, my guess is the service manager was feeding you a line. If you have been lucky so far, your engine probably has not been damaged.
  • vwteachervwteacher Posts: 1
    Hi! I've got so many problems with my VW right now that it looks like my dashboard is all lit up! I have about 93K miles on my car and bought it two years ago used. Just recently the following warning lights have appeared on my dashboard, and stressing me out! I have the following problems: 1) ABS/brake light going on, which in turns has the STOP brake fault; 2) emission workshop light on (replaced both oxygen sensors and mass air flow sensor in the past year) 3) check engine light; 4) oil pressure - STOP/turn off motor...I've had all my regular oil changes done and just had Pennzoil look at it for sludge and they found none...not sure what the problem is. My boyfriend thinks it's an electrical problem since my car seems to be running fine and my oil level or temperature gauge has not changed. I've got an appointment with a VW dealership on Wednesday but I'd like to be prepared before hand of any possible problems that they may find. I've read a lot of ABS modules that have needed to be replaced, and I can't afford to get it fixed. If anyone could help with the problems I mentioned above, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks for your help!
  • spyder52spyder52 Posts: 30
    First of all I have to say I love the car but the problems are starting to get on my nerves! I seem to go to service center on a regular basis now. Sometime it's safty recall, other times is a faulty engine light, etc. The first week of my 02 delivery when new my onboard computer went dead, fast forward 3 years, front seat edge cushion callaped (I weight 170lbs). This week my radio is replaced because it died for no reason. Today I found out my A pillar clearcoat is peeling (will be see a regional rep to authorize repaint per dealer next week or two). Finally, today I also found out from dealer my rear brake rotors are warpped!!!!!! Due to heat and the design of the non-ventilated rear rotors they have to be replaced! When you are braking gently, and if your car feels like you are pumping the brakes to stop, your rotor may be warpped! Check with your dealer is you car is not stopping perfectly smoothly. :mad:
  • happyjack1happyjack1 Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I recently purchased a used Passat and, of course, no owners manual came with the car! I just replaced the rack and pinion stearing column, which, because the car had 110,000 miles on it, I figured was par for the course.
    Can someone supply me with answers to the following questions:

    1. How do you set stations on the radio?
    2. How do you change the time on the clock?
    3. How do you replace the radio antenna?

    Thanks,
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    1) When your on the station you want to program, hold one of the preset buttons until it beeps.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    2. How do you change the time on the clock?

    By turning the pin sticking out of the instrument cluster. In one direction, it changes the hours and the other direction changes the minutes.
  • happyjack1happyjack1 Posts: 3
    Hi,

    Thanks to Fish8 and altair4 for the radio and clock answers. Has anyone else tried the new shark antennas?

    Thanks
  • martin78martin78 Posts: 1
    Since 1997, I have purchased five new Volkswagen Automobiles. In 1997 I purchased my first VW, a Jetta that lasted over 100,000 miles. I traded it in on a 2001 Jetta and also got a Beetle for my wife the same day. The Jetta went almost 100,000 miles before I traded it for a 2004 Passat. I also traded the 2001 Beetle for a 2003 Turbo Beetle. In all I have almost 300,000 miles behind the wheel of Volkswagens. They are terrific cars that have terrific mileage, handling, reliability, safety, and performance.

    They also have a power-train warranty that is written in smoke on a windy day.

    On 10 Jun 2005, with slightly over 38,000 miles of use, and well within the power-train warranty of 60 month/60,000 mile, the engine lost oil pressure in Maryland on I-95. The Passat was towed to the nearest dealer in Delaware at no cost to me within two hours. The dealership took the car in and was ready to get to work. I rented a car and got on my way. Excellent so far!

    About an hour down the road, the dealership called me and informed me that the warranty may not cover the repair, since the computer system did not show the initial service at a VW dealership in Fayetteville, NC and I could not find proof that I changed the oil at 10,000 miles and 25,000 miles (which I did in my garage using oil filters from the local dealer and premium Castrol 5W-30 motor oil. The records; however, did show service at 18,000 and 34,000 miles at my local dealership. I have seven reasonable questions:

    1. Why should an extremely loyal five-time buyer (more than one car every-other year) have to prove anything?

    2. Why are VW owners “guilty until proven innocent” by Volkswagen of America for warranty coverage?

    3. Why doesn’t VW prove why it should not honor their warranty versus having the owner prove that VW of America should?

    4. Why can’t the 800 service line help the customer, other than offer a plethora of apologies?

    5. How does Volkswagen of America treat their first-time buyers?

    6. Why do VW Owners and Dealers believe in the cars and VW of America doesn’t?

    I understand VW of America’s concerns about non-VW parts, modifications by the owner that may damage the car, or improper use (racing) of the car; however, Passat owners do not strike me as the type. I use (and always use) only VW parts from the dealership. I use the car to commute to work and to travel with my wife. Neither uses are racing activities. Such concerns do not excuse such alienation of the owners!

    7. My last question is: why should I ever buy another (or recommend) VW product again?
  • cranfordcranford Posts: 1
    I am wondering if anyone can help me. I have sunk just about everything I own into my 99 Passat GLS. The lights that illuminate the three temperature control dials come on only when they "feel" like it. The power mirrors, locks, interior lights and gas door don't work anymore. In order to fill up my gas tank, I now have to tear down the trunk interior and manually pull the little motor cable to release the door to the gas tank! I have checked all of the fuses, but they are fine. I had a dealership look at it and they told me they couldn't help either w/o tearing apart the entire electrical system to the tune of over $1000.00.

    I have 55K miles on this car and it sounds to me like the CV boots are going out. Everytime I come to a stop or go over a bumpy road, my suspension squeaks and whines. My power steering feels like it is going out too. Does anyone have any insight for me? I owe 8K on the car and am getting ready to sell it to the highest bidder just so I can get it off my hands.

    Thanks!
  • djarosdjaros Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. My car is in the shop again and this time they're replacing the wiring harness (a $2,000 expense that is fortunately covered under warranty). Not sure if this will fix it, but judging from your diagnosis it just might. It's extremely frustrating as the service departments can't really be sure they have fixed a problem, they simply run a bunch of tests and look for failures. If all passes, the car is good to go and they may never know what was wrong.

    I'm picking up my car tomorrow. I'll post again to let you know if the problem has been fixed.
  • hanfordhanford Posts: 2
    My water pump failed after 52K miles.(Just out of warranty as you know). Very expensive repair followed. As with a timing belt change, the whole front end had to be removed. Question: Anyone had this problem with such low mileage? I will write to VW of America and express my disappointment and ask for some kind of reimbursement. Good luck to me.
  • hanfordhanford Posts: 2
    My mistake regarding the age of the GLX. It's a 2002. Still in shock over the repair cost. Sorry.
  • chipmakerhwchipmakerhw myrtle beach scPosts: 1
    I have a 1999 1.8 passat, 112K miles that i changed to mobil 1 2 months ago. oil lite came on, no oil ! no leaks ! I was told the synthetic oil was too thin ? the dealer wants megs bucks to check it out. anyone heard of this. thanks.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Make sure the synthetic oil complies with the VW 502.00 specification (they should have it posted at the service department in your VW dealer). There's only two oils that are 5w-30 and one 0w-40 (Mobil 1). The rest are 5w-40. If you are using any other viscosity than those listed or if you use dino (conventional) oil, you are risking engine damage and sludge.

    Also check the exhaust pipe for any signs of oil residue. If you find oil residue, that could mean anything from worn piston rings to failed turbocharger bearing seals.

    Most importantly, make sure you check the oil level each time you pull into the service station to get gas. It will give you a better idea about the engine's rate of oil consumption. And get your oil changed every 3500 - 5000 miles (and not 1 mile over the 5000 mile limit).
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    What viscosity of Mobil 1?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Mobil 1 0w-40 is on the VW 502.00 specification
  • livelove05livelove05 Posts: 1
    hello....Being forced to go to dealership because of OBDII& Emissions failure. Just looking for some advice, as 1) They don't have a reputation of honesty/fair pricing , esp. w/ females.

    The inspection receipt specified these two failures... would those be the only things req'd to pass inspection or will they do their own, and claim that other misc. repairs need to be done?
    Also, I called VW to check warranty, and some emissions related repairs are covered, will they still charge me a diagnostic fee/and or hourly labor fees at dealership? thanks.
  • jradjrad Posts: 1
    I have 2000 Passat GLS with all the bells and whistles. Sadly I have a repeat problem with the front fender wells. The plastic part that goes inside the wells keeps getting rubbed and ripped up by the front wheels. I brought it into my dealer (terrible service by the way) and told them what was going on. After making a huge stink they said that they would cover labor and that I would have to pay for the part. Now the problem arises again. I just got my wheels rotated and they are now rubbing again and tearing the crap out of the wheel wells. It only happens at speed since I can not see the wheel touch the skirting any other time. Has anyone else found this problem and what has been done about it. I have seen many other Passats with this problem but the dealer keeps saying it is my problem. It is clearly a design flaw. What do we have to do to get VW to recall or take action on this? Please help. I am scheduled to go into the shop again next wed to see what can happen. Thanks for the help. JRAD :mad:
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    It's not a design flaw.

    My guess is that the plastic shield (also known as the "belly pan") that covers the underside of the engine is missing or not properly attached. The belly pan has about 14 attachment points, two of which are at the bottom of each front wheel liner.

    The reason this only happens at speed is that the air pressure pushes the wheel liners back. The attachments to the belly pan at the front bottom of the wheel well liners prevents that from happening.

    The belly pan is a notorious part, as quick lube places don't deal with it well. For that matter, even some dealership service departments have been known to lose the quarter-turn connectors.

    If yours is missing, and you opt to replace it, I suggest that you price the belly pan for the W8 model. Seems that, for some reason, it is less expensive and possibly of a better grade of material. Or you just may need to buy the connectors, if you are lucky. Some owners, in an emergency (or even longer ;) ) use zip ties to hold the liners back from rubbing.
  • jake20jake20 Posts: 5
    i'm trying to find a good, reliable, and affordable used car (preferably under $18k). want room but also good gas mileage. so have shifted search from SUV to wagons.

    so now considering either:
    * '00 passat glx wagon with 40k miles at $15,998
    * '01 saab 9-5 wagon with 30k miles at $16,998
    * '01 volvo v70 wagon with 60k miles at $19,599

    based on price/mileage, style, and edmunds reviews, i'm seriously considering the passat glx wagon.

    questions for those who have experience with passat's and buying used cars in general:

    * any other wagons,i should consider based on price, style, gas mileage, and reliability criteria?
    * as for the passat wagon, is this a good price? (it's high according to tmv)
    * is the passat going to last another 5-6 years at 15k miles/year?
    * is the passat reasonably reliable with relatively low maintenance issues/costs? (e.g. how much difference b/w the passat and the hondas/toyotas of the world in terms of reliability?)
    * anything i should know about the passat wagon before i buy it?

    many thanks for your experience/insights on any/all of the above questions...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    I would avoid any Passat earlier than 2003 (2002 and earlier were very problematic). My wife has a 2003 Passat that has had absolutely no problems at 35,000 miles (Consumer Reports rates it as a Recommended pick with a projected reliability rating of average). As far as the 01 Volvo, I would be wary of that as well (electrical issues). Go with the Saab. I'm looking at the latest Consumer Reports guide, and the 01 Saab fared the better out of all three in the reliability verdict department (average reliability vs. below average reliability of the other two).

    Hondas/Toyotas are reliable cars, but they lack the upscale factor of the three cars that you are considering.
  • megan12301megan12301 Posts: 1
    Hi, I own a 2001 VW Passat 1.8T and it has around 62K miles on it. When I am in drive, sitting at a stoplight, the idle lunges up and down. (between .75 and 1.25) If I slightly take my foot off the brake, then the entire car lunges forward. The dealers are unclear as to what it is, they checked my car "computer" and it had nothing wrong with it. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • klh3klh3 Posts: 18
    I have 05 Passat GLX Wagon 4motion, 6k miles. I am very glad I bought it. I looked at Volvo,Saab,Subaru and Audi. For the $$$$ the Passat is a bargain. It looks great inside and out,has all of the features others pay extra for and it drives fantastic. As far as problems,none so far. I did purchase an extended warranty 7yr/100k. I know of other brands that have been "shop queens" as well. The most reliable transportation I have found so far is, my own two feet and they sometimes have problems. My point is anyone looking at a NEW Passat, buy it. No matter what brand you buy used, you are probably going to inherit some issues. :shades:
    my 2 cents
  • mnewson1mnewson1 Posts: 1
    My left rear power window motor will not lower the window, only raise it (after you manually push the window down). My guess is that whatever grabs the window (to lower it) isn't grabbing.

    I would appreciate any tips on a) removing the inside door panel, and b) fixing this problem.
  • matthewt24matthewt24 Posts: 7
    I know this answer is a bit belated, but I had the same problem (crunching noise) when I got my 04 GLS 1.8T wagon over a year ago. At first, the service tech was dumbfounded, but finally came to the conclusion that it was the ABS. Mine still makes the noise, and I've had zero problems to date, so I guess all is well and it's nothing to be concerned about. However, I am wondering if others have experienced this issue?
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    I hear what sounds like a crunching noise when I first start out in the AM in my 3 week old wagon.

    I chalked it up to ABS/ESP doing a self test - it's a common sound in ABS equipped Hondas which I've driven for many years.
  • klh3klh3 Posts: 18
    Does this "sound" happen like during the first 50 feet or less from a dead start first thing?If yes, it is NORMAL.
    I too was concerned , then found out it was normal!
    my2cents
  • leviza117leviza117 Posts: 1
    Hi Japher:

    I am trying to change the oil for the first time myself on my 2001 1.8L Passat. I cannot find the oil drain plug and it looks loke the plastic thing is hanging on by 1 bolt. I also read in another posting, you have to remove the something to get to the filter. Did you figure this out ? What did you find?
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