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anyone knows much about state lemon laws and my understand is that if one takes a new car in three or more times for the same reason, then dealers by law may have to replace the car?
( i live in virginia by the way).
thanks. :lemon:
I will be driving down the road and the radio goes "pop" and I loose AM radio,... it is like the connection to the AM radio antenna is lost.
Very frustrated,..will likely not buy a VW again. Using a $5 radio from Walmart to listen to my "talk shows".
Any suggestions? how do I get it fixed or VW attention?
:lemon:
Could anyone give me an idea of what kind of timeline I have with this before the car becomes essentially undriveable? Is there anything I can do to slow the deterioration process?
Also, is it possible to induce this type of damage while servicing the car (for instance, when replacing something like a timing belt)?
Thank you for any input!
See www.scangauge.com
Assuming the car had an oil change every 5,000 miles, the owner's driving habits is probably the biggest factor. The cold hard fact of the matter is - the majority of drivers do not know how to drive turbocharged vehicles. Here's an important fact - turbocharged engines run much hotter than non-turbocharged engines due to the extra heat produced by forced induction. Case in point - you'll be surprised how many drivers don't know that it is recommended to let the car idle for 1-2 minutes after driving at highway speeds before shutting off the engine (to allow the engine temperature to stabilize).
Shutting off a turbocharged engine immediately before giving it time to properly cool down will cause the oil to cook into a gooey, molasses-like substance (sludge). And since most engines are built to tighter tolerances (clearances), with smaller oil passages, it doesn't take long for the sludge to clog those passages, causing an oil starvation condition - and thus - an increased probability of rod knock.
I hold VW (factory & dealership) responsible for not specifying synthetic oil right from the get-go, but the driver (owner) must also share the responsibility for not doing proper research on a vehicle (as well as care, maintenance, and driving habits) before plunking down thousands of their hard-earned dollars on any new vehicle.
VW did recommend synthetic oil in original manual but it was written with marketing input so it was watered down. 5W40 oil was just recommended and not required.
Later on VW sent a letter specifying that any oil will do as long as it meets VW specification VW 502.00. Strangly only synthetic oils were present some 5W30, some 5W40 and 0W40.
http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/engoil_gas.pdf
What oil have you used for your changes?
Krzys
PS Many dealers were uneducated or cheap in the beginning. It seems that even now there are dealers that use wrong oils.
http://www.audiusa.com/common/images/Audi_Approved_Oil_Chart.pdf
http://www.autospies.com/images/uploads/files/VWOilSludge.pdf
and look for altair4 post
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef2298b.ef0feec/1649
I use Castrol Syntec 5W-40 in all three VWs I own (two 1.8Ts and one 2.0L 8-valve). I've been a proponent of synthetic oil since my Air Force days (the aircraft that I've worked on used synthetic oil).
To go a step further, my gas-powered snowblower uses Mobil-1 0w40 (European Formula), after breaking in the engine with dino oil the first year (yeah, I know it's probably overkill, but I figured the extra protection is worth it over the long haul... :shades: )
> VW did recommend synthetic oil in original manual but it was written with marketing input so it was watered down.
...marketing does tend to bollocks things up at times, don't they... :mad:
As long as the drive doesn't involve brisk acceleration, driving a mile or two at 30mph is just as good as idling the car for two minutes - the engine temperature will have sufficient time to stabilize before shutdown.
Agreed...I take VW marketing/salespeople with a grain of salt... :shades:
Krzys
PS VWoA should have trained mechanics and service advisors, it would have been enough.
I am a owner of a new 2006 3.6 Passat. It was purchased on Feb. 23, 2006.
I have the nappa leather in beige. This morning when I was about to get into my vehicle I noticed that the leather seat on the driver side appeared worn down. It looked as if someone had rubbed it down with a dark cleaner and then wiped it off. The seat appears worn and dirty.
Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and what my recourse should be.
Thanks.
Stormy
When I bought mine (1.8T) at a VW dealership, I asked the salesman about the turbo cool down and he said it's not necessary because of new technology... obviously he didn't know what he's talking about. Anyway, I hold VW for not training their salespeople.
Those sales guys are loathe to state that the manufacturer recommends premium fuel and requires synth oil. They just don't want to say that any service will cost more on this car than a competitor's model.
When I bought my Passat, I knew more about the engine and its oil and fuel requirements than the sales guy. In fact, we never discussed either topic - I told him what I knew it needed. He didn't react at all - it was like I hadn't said a word.
My owner's manual is a vague mess in a lot of ways. But once you cut through the marketing-watered-down stuff, I found that my '03 pretty much specified synthetic oil at a max change interval of 5,000 miles and that cool-down was recommended after "hard-driving". I pretty much let it cool down for about 2 minutes on my arrival at home (I live at the top of a long hill, so I'm in boost the last 1.5 miles home). This is easy for me - I park the car, gather my stuff up and drop it on the back porch, and then walk down to grab the mail. Automatic turbo timer!
Personally, I've only used synthetic oil in either 5w-40 or 0w-40, and I'm sticking to a change interval of 4,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.
See you there!
I own the same vehicle as yours since December 2005. Never heard any noise in the rear. I don’t think it has anything to do with the ABS as it was suggested by robr2. Let them check what is the problem and let us know.
1 - They did all engine test, computer tests, rear wheel check-ups and did not find anything.
2 - I test drove with them, and had the guy listen to the noise, and he felt it was something normal. But just to be sure, he got me the keys to another Passat V6 on the lot and I drove that car too. The same, "knocking" or "drumming" noise was in that car also. So we concluded it was normal. But he will get in touch Passat Quality department to describe the noise and understand what it exactly is.
It looks like all the Passat V6s have it. i don't know about the 4-Cylinder engines.
is that normal in all navigation systems that operate off of a disc or is it just mine?? I hope it the first case.
Anyways, i am going to talk to the guy who knows about these systems at the dealer on monday and see what he says. i hope i don't need to replace the whole Navigation system.
Anyone, please let me know if this is NORMAL.
thanks.
My 2 cents.............
Is there a way to add an AUX (RCA) or iPod input? If so, does this involve disabling Nav or Satellite?
I understand that the disk changer does not play MP3s, if I am not using the Nav system, can I play an MP3 CD in the player above the Nav system?
Is there a way to add Bluetooth capabilities?
I am ordering this direct from Germany, are there any of these options or other options I can order FACTORY installed?
TIA.
is that normal in all navigation systems that operate off of a disc or is it just mine?? I hope it the first case.
Anyways, i am going to talk to the guy who knows about these systems at the dealer on monday and see what he says. i hope i don't need to replace the whole Navigation system.
Anyone, please let me know if this is NORMAL.
thanks.
This morning, the highway was restricted to chains/four wheel drive only (first time all winter!), so I turned around to get my wife's Durango--I hate putting on chains! It was the first time I've really driven the Durango in the snow since we bought the Passat last July.
Man, did I miss the Passat! The VW seems to perform as well or better in all conditions except when the snow gets more than a few inches deep (that 4" buildup between lanes is sketchy in the Passat sometimes, but that's about the only problem I ever have). The Durango feels clumsy and just doesn't feel as sure-footed when the road is real slippery, even in 4 wheel drive. Meanwhile, I'm getting 33 mpg in the Passat, and not as likely to roll over if I should lose control. And this is comming from someone who has driven 4 wheel drive SUVs all his life to this point!
I wonder what a 4Motion would feel like in comparison? Do those snow piles between lanes make the car feel like the back end wants to move around a little, or does the 4Motion compensate for this? Also, what kind of mpg do the 4Motions get--how much of a dent does it make? I know several people with Subarus who are disappointed with the 25mpg that they get on the freeway, whether there is snow on the road or it's sunny and clear! Makes me real glad I went with the Passat.
Have a good one...
Thanks for your input.
However, the VW dealers (I've been to two) have told me that in my particular model on the 4-cylinder 1.8 turbo that the timing belt and water pump aren't near each other so there is no overlap in labor, therefore I have to pay for the full charge on both. They also said that there are 4-cylinder 1.8 turbos that do have the timng belt and water pump together but mine was not one of them.
Is there any truth to these statements? Can they actually really be in entirely different sections of the car? The 2nd VW dealer which confirmed that they are seperate only did so after I told them what the 1rst dealer said. I don't know if they confirmed it so that they could ALSO charge me more (because I'm doing service with the 2nd dealer).
Am I being too parnoid, please help!
Thank you
p.s. not to mention they also found a radiator leak which I'm replacing too and some coolant hose leaks. Total so far is ~$2000 for a checkup on a little noise coming from the engine!
IMHO, I'd go for a 3rd opinion and play stupid.
Check out the Warranty Booklet that came with the car.
Even If you are not the original owner, it appears that your friendly VW dealer is taking you to the cleaners: the quotes may be perfectly "correct" in terms of doing each INDIVIDUAL JOB 'by the book,' but there is a lot of overlap which should significantly reduce the overall cost of doing BOTH TOGETHER.
You should have taken the time to get a quote from a third party (must be SOME independents in your area who work on VW / Audis - ?).
Would also pay to invest in a Haynes VW Passat & Audi A4, 1998 - (2001), 1.8T 4 & 2.8 6 Engines:
Check out section on Timing Belt (on 1.8T) on page 2A-4, and then look at the section on Replacing the Water Pump (Four-Cylinder engines) on page 3-4.
You will find that BOTH of these procedures start with placing the radiator support panel "in the Service Position." THIS is where most of the labor is - and why it is so Expensive to have any work done - AND IT ONLY NEEDS TO BE DONE ONCE to gain access to BOTH the Water Pump and the Timing Belt.
Sure, some other parts will have to come off, and they might not be the same parts if you were only doing ONE of the jobs than if doing both: but, again, the point is that there is a lot of overlap, and you should not have to pay Book Rate as if they were Disassembling the car for Water Pump, Putting it BACK TOGETHER, and THEN DISASSEMBLING EVERYTHING AGAIN for the Timing Belt!....
Sorry for the soap box, but this is something that really ticks me off: have thoroughly enjoyed my '99 Passat, and just put over $2,600 into it so I can Keep On Enjoying it, but it seems that service at VW dealers is a crap shoot at best. (Will refrain from any stronger indictment....)
Which is why I was willing to spend the above $2,600 to have work done at an Independent Garage. Even though (in theory) PART of that work would have been covered by the fore-mentioned PowerTrain warranty - had a leaking waterpump - it was less expensive to have the entire job done elsewhere (with having to pay for all of it) than to hand it over to the dealer (where part would have been under warranty).
Not to mention that I slept better knowing that the work had a reasonably good chance of being done Well....
SIGH.
Good luck with the work, and apologies for the tirade: but would still suggest you do some Research - and then POLITELY ask "WHY?!?" if they attempt to double-charge; but perhaps with the name of good attorney stuck in your back pocket....
Reid / SE MI
99 V6 5spd 80K