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However, afterI put break oil, it didnot appear anymore.
So, go check your break fluid and re-fill it. It is just $2. I think it is going to be solved.
My warranty is going to be finished soon. Would it be better for me to buy a new warranty or not? I am still thinking about it. Please let me know.
thnks,redairguitar
Beyond that:
How much does an Extended Warranty Cost?
What is the Deductible?
What does it Actually Cover?
How LONG does it last? (Years / Mileage)
Who is providing the warranty? (What Company stands behind it?)
What is THEIR reputation?
What is YOUR tendency to "buyers remorse?" (Or, Non-buyers remorse?)
Does warranty require that work be done only at a dealer?
Do you have a local dealer whom you trust?
Probably a few other items you could add to the list, but its similar to any other loss control assessment: Probability of Loss + Likely Cost of Loss against Cost of Transferring Risk (ie: The Warranty) mitigated by any reasonable steps you could take to lower Probability and / or Cost (ie: Regular Maintenance; Self-help - you fix it Yourself...)
Good luck in your decision - & please post results so others can learn from your experience....
Reid / SE MI
Or can anyone else let me know if you can control the temp. on your heaters....
And document, document, document. Keep all of the work orders and make sure the language you use is the same (and that the service advisor enters it into the computer the same way). You Have 4 yrs/50K to keep your case, if they can't get it right.
-Just another concern from a concerned VW owner.
I have a 94 Volkswagon Passat V6. The engine has suddenly started to get overheated within 10-15 minutes of running. I got it checked from one repair shop who said nothing wrong with the engine, but the cooling fan is not operating. I have however noticed that when the car temp goes above 260 and i stop the car and shutdown the engine, the cooling fan seems to be running for sometime. I have taken the car to another repair shop (since first one said he didnt had equipment to find whats wrong with electric system). This one says something wrong with thermostat.
Please can anyone provide any guidance as to what could be wrong.
Thanks,
Hitesh
For a "fast overheat" as you are experiencing, a thermostat isn't a bad 'guess' but it's still a guess. Your cooling system can be pressure tested for coolant or head gasket leaks, the radiator flow-tested for clogging, and the coolant fan operation can be observed while the car is idling and parked. The thermostat can be removed, examined and tested as well.
Don't go to "parts changers", go to a real mechanic.
Ten minutes isn't a very long test for the fan BTW.
please help me i got a trip in a week im goin to sc from pa n im driving ahhh so i need to fix this like asap
thanks
1. Did they give you a free loaner car? If so, is it a comparable vehicle or a cheap rental?
2. Do you have a long relationship with this dealer, or is this car a first for you?
3. If only the engine is replced, will this dealer do the work? How long do they estimate it will take?
I once had a "last car on a Friday" vehicle. Once all of the kinks were out, it ended up being fine (but it really frustrated me). I really don't see any reason a new engine would not be an equally good option here. Perhaps someone else can enlighten me on some reasons?
The service advisor and the service manager told me that they felt the car would "never be the same" if the engine were to be replaced. They felt that other problems would surface during my time of ownership and the end result would be that I would forever be soured on VW. They want to either replace the car or have VW buy it back from me.
I did enjoy my 1,100 mile experience with the Passat and I hope that VW does the right thing here, not necessarily the least expensive.
2. NOW IF YOUR DEALER CHARGED YOU $1000.00 TO REPLACE BRAKE PADS, THEY TOOK YOU FOR A RIDE. FRONT SHOULD COST YOU AROUND 250-300 INC CUTTING THE ROTOR - REARS SHOULD BE A LITTLE BIT CHEAPER. EVEN IF YOU DO PADS AND ROTORS FRONT AND REAR YOU SHOULD ONLY BE PAYING ABOUT $750.00
I did my rears when I had my 2003 1.8t GLS Tip and it cost about $500 for pads/rotors, VWOA split the cost with me at $250, this is close to what an independent shop will charge.
Pulled the rubber boot at the door post and found black plug disconnected. Reconnected same, all is working normally. Have all functions retuned to normal.
There are 2 plugs into the door post! Took 2 minutes to do.
Good luck with yours
Thanks
Thanks
Has anyone noticed this in the Passat? I've never driven a car that had this bad of a reception problem.
For reference, I have the 2.0T and did not get the sound system upgrade (600watts seemed like a bit too much.) but do have XM satellite radio, which sounds perfectly fine.
Thanks for reading.
And secondly, assuming you are in the United States or Canada, a 4 cylinder 2005 Passat for this market is, in fact turbocharged. The V6 is not turbocharged. Again, assuming your are in the US or Canada, you either have a 6 or a turbocharged 4. If you are outside this market, all bets are off, but I would guess that the VW 4 without a turbo is less susceptible to sludging (as long as the oil is changed along the recommended time/mileage intervals.
Thanks
The check engine light comes on later and I am in the US. Are you sure the 4 is turbocharged? I certainly don't get that from the performance.
Absolutely sure about the turbo. Per Edmunds, three engines were available: turbodiesel, gas turbo and V6.
Regarding your comment on performance, well...I'd guess that has something to do with your check engine light.
The problem should be throwing a code that the tech would be able to pick up on their computer diagnostic check. Maybe you need to see another dealer/indy garage. You're still under warranty, I think, given your mileage and model year.
Sorry that I can't help more. If you can post up the codes, you might be able to get more (and better) advice.
Carbon build up with so few miles on the car? I find that hard to swallow.
Not knowing alot about your problem, I had the same "noise" in my 2000 Passat. It sounded like my car was a diesel engine. After some searching I found out that the there is a adaptor for the cami-valve. It closes off the valve. MY repair man(VW mecahnic) says that sometimes when the engine runs hot it bursts a hole in this adaptor. I went tot VW dealer and bought this replacment adapator for around $40.00 and my mecahnic installed it and it sounds like a normal car... Hope this helps
Thanks for your information to kelcpa. I will take your write-up to the dealership to see what they have to say. I too had run into the same similar problems like kelcapa. The ironic part is the same TWO problems. I have been to two different VW dealerships and both were not able to find anything wrong with the rumbling noise in engine. I have replaced spark plugs, throttle services, and injector services already with only 40k miles.
Can you please be more detail about your fix-up? Is it a lot of work to install the cami-valve? How much time is required?
I hope that this is the problem. I am getting tired of going back and forth to the dealer.
Your respond is URGENT. I am schedule to bring the vehicle IN tomorrow.
What, if anything else should I watch out for, or try to prevent from happening? Please help!
altair4, "Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier" #8052, 6 Apr 2006 7:53 am
Check engine line codes can be pulled at any Autozone. then either post the codes here or google them on the web.
The belly pan - you can either buy the correct attachment hardware or simply use zip-ties to hold it in place. If the pan is broke, I recommend replacing it (otherwise you'll probably wear holes through the wheel liners, since the belly pan holds the front wheel liners in place). If your belly pan is actually broken, you can save some money by ordering the W8 belly pan - for some reason it's actually cheaper than the 1.8T version and will fit.
How many miles on this vehicle? Did you receive any maintenance records with it (check in the owner's manual)? Any indication that synthetic oil was used? Do yo have any warranty on this car?
The 1.8T needs synthetic oil in the correct grade and meeting VW's specification 502.00 at no more than 5,000 miles. You can find a list of the approved oils on VW's website. DON'T TRY TO STRETCH OUT THE OIL CHANGE INTERVAL and DON'T CHEAP OUT AND NOT USE SYNTHETIC! You'll only hurt yourself.
I'm reading the links you sent me right now. Thanks,thanks, thanks, This was my first time! (on a forum)
If you have receipts for the service, the VW part number for synthetic oil is ZVW 352 540S, per this list on vw.com:
http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/oilchart.pdf
The oil should be 5w-40 viscosity. You should read this pamphlet:
http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/engoil_gas.pdf
Stick to synthetic from this list and you'll have sludge warranty protection under VW's warranty extension. You can probably find that on VW's website, too.
You wrote:
This was my first time! (on a forum)
It was good for me, too. :surprise: