Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

vwjaney · August 2006

thanks...I will check the receipt and see..I've been going to these guys for about 15 years...they are very fair...but they assured me they would check their computer for recommended vw oil...I know it was synthetic...I'll check and thanks again... :shades:

vwjaney · August 2006

THANKS..I was really talking about routine oil changes and whatnot...I know when I had my Geo (many years ago) the main. was basically free as well as my friends' Ford she drives....I will call around though for the best price on the 20,000 check up....thanks :P

frank_c · August 2006

Here's a question for the technically inclined:

The car is a Wagon 4motion. The engine is the V6, 2.8L. The car is driven little so I changed oil at a VW dealer after just 952 miles (synthetic). Just before the 5,000 mile inspection I noticed that the oil was very low, hitting the low mark on the dip stick. After the inspection the tech mumbled something along the lines having drained about 4 quarts. The engine capacity is 6.3 quarts.

A test resolved that there is no leak or burning of oil. The only possible explanation is that the dealer underfilled by about 2 quarts at the 952 mile service.

Three obvious questions:
(1) Can this damage the engine (there was no oil pressure warning)?
(2) If so how could this be tested for (take off gasket heads)?
(3) If there is damage should I go straigt to VW of America (the initial dealer is 500 miles away and will of course deny anything).

Many thanks,
Frank

altair4 · August 2006

I can tell you that it's an open secret that the VW/Audi 2.8 V6 is often an "oil eater" and consumption on the level you describe is not unheard of. From some boards I've visited, I'v read consumption levels approaching 1 quart every 1,000 miles on realtively new engines with low miles.

My guess is if you bring this back to VW they will say the consumption is within what they consider normal. They might go further to say that the owner's manual recommends checking the oil at every fuel fill.

Out of curiosity, what was their test for checking if the engine burned the oil?

jdhebert23 · August 2006

I have a 2001.5 Passat 1.8 GLS I bought in March of 2004 with 35k. I've now owned it for almost 2 1/2 years, and it has almost 98k. I can say that I've driven the HELL out of this car, but fortunately I have had very minimal problems with the car so far:

52k MAF replaced (recall warranty)
66k turbo vacuum hose replaced (was a simple DIY job with only $10 in parts)
80k both CV joints replaced (ext warranty)
92k timing belt/water pump replaced (prev maint, $450 by my mechanic who loves to work on VW's)

but now I have a concern. I religiously have a fully synthetic oil change every 5k miles. I also know to let the turbo cool at 2 minute idle after "spirited" driving. This car is by far the funniest car I've ever owned, and I bought the car expecting high maint problems but comparing myself to fellow Passat owners, I should probably consider myself fortunate. However, my car is nearing 100k and about 3 days ago, I was leaving work and as I rounded the corners in the parking garage, I heard a terrible whine from the steering...I checked the fluid and it looks fine, and it's not any mechanical parts that just need to be greased...it sounds like it's coming from the pump or something. It's hard for me to explain the frequency of this noise but I will try anyway: It does it as I am turning the wheel, but once I turn the wheel to where I want it, it quits. If I go to turn the wheel more in the same direction, then it starts again until I hold the wheel in position. I am not that mechanically inclined, but do you think it might mean it's time to replace belts? I have been trying to stay on top of the maintenance schedule, but I don't know when I should start replacing belts. Also, my check engine light has been on for the last 15k, and the code is coming back as P-0411. I don't want to take it to the dealer which will charge me $90 to diag the code, and I was wondering if someone could shed some light on what might be involved to correct the problem. I researched the code and it said "Incorrect Air Flow" so I changed the air filter (which was awful). The light actually turned itself off for a few days but then came back on. Any help on my power steering issues and/or the P-0411 code would be greatly appreciated.

By the way, this is my second Passat. I bought a used 1990 Passat with 94k back in 2001, which succumed to a broken timing belt at 108k (this was before I even knew what I timing belt was...). Also, the power steering in it went out not long after I bought it, but it wasn't that big of a deal for me so I just drove without power steering. I don't want to have a 5 year old Passat with no power steering though, so it is more important to me this time.

secondgen7 · August 2006

The P0411 code has to do with the Secondary Air Injection System, which includes an air pump, vacuum hoses and the combi (sometimes called Kombi or combination) valve. Soon after we got our 01.5 wagon this code popped up. I wound up replacing the air pump and combi valve (which is a PAIN to reach). It doesn't really affect the car's performance but the car won't pass emissions testing, if you have to deal with that.

You can get more info, pics, etc at passatworld.com forums. Can probably find out about the power steering whine, too.

Also, if you work on the Passat much, I recommend picking up VagCom software and a cable .. it'll allow you to check and clear the engine codes, among other things.

Hope this helps,
Dave

user777 · August 2006

FWIW: you might want to check to see that the PCV valve is not clogged or stuck. it can contribe to oil consumption.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve

altair4 · August 2006

True. And the PCV system on this car is complicated.

canthelplvnme · August 2006

I'm sad.
This morning I got in my car to drive to work and i noticed that even though my E-Brake wasn't on, the break light wouldn't turn off. And then i noticed my headlights don't turn on and that my horn doesn't work. I have a 1999 Passat V6. Anybody know what needs to be fixed and how much it might cost me? I've just been pouring money into this car. ugh. :sick:

fish8 · August 2006

My Homelink in my '04.5 Passat has been flawless!!!

altair4 · August 2006

Just keep in mind if you start blowing fuse #5, that's your first suspect.

stucknow · August 2006

I recently purchased a new 2006 passat 3.6. After bring it home the right head light burnt out two days later. Total mileage at this point was 106. I have noticed constant condensation in this headlight. I called my dealer and was told that this is normal and even said that VW has put out a bulletin saying this is normal and they are not responsible for replacing. The other headlight is perfectly dry. I'm having a hard time believing this is normal and in some way may have contributed to the original light burning out. When I contacted VW of America I began to get the real run around. Has anyone had similar issues. Buying a new car should be a happy experience however VW has left a bad taste and ruined the entire experience.

Any words of wisdom as to how best to get this issue resolved will be welcomed.

kvik · August 2006

Recently I noticed a broken spring under my 2001.5 (New) Passat GLS driving seat. The question is whether this spring is a part of the one-touch automatic movement feature of the driving seat?

If yes, is this fix requires VW service attention and how approximately cost (CA)?

altair4 · August 2006

The spring is an assist to the up and down height adjustment to the seat. Just had it happen to my passenger seat the last month. I heard this loud noise - I thought something had actually hit my car on the right outside sheet metal. A careful examination found that spring hanging down and a small piece of metal (presumably where it attached) on the back floor mat.

No idea on the cost - probably prohibitive. The seat adjustment still works, but it's a bit harder to move the seat up and down.

I'm still under warranty, so I'm going to see if my dealer will handle it.

Yet another "not uncommon issue" with the Passat and, actually, VW seats in general.

kvik · August 2006

Thank you for sharing with me your information. I have been told by one of the VW service advisors I contacted, that this broken spring from the driving not power seat (2001.5 Passat GLS) I found on the floor is actually a piece of the one-touch automatic movement mechanism. This part is responsible in moving the driving seat forward and backward with only one touch of the seat front lever. I still can move the seat with a manual force but it's heavy.

Therefore, it appears you broke a different spring responsive for the lighter movement of the seat up and down.

stucknow · August 2006

Majors,
Were you able to settle this as I have exactally the same problem and same runaround from VW

weebsy · August 2006

I have a strange problem. My rear lights will not work. My front drivers side light (UK right hand side) does not work. The break lights work.
When I apply the breaks, the drivers side light also comes on.
HELP!

ofallon78 · August 2006

I bought my 2006 Passat 2.0T 2 1/2 weeks ago. It has the climatic/manual climate controls. I had the fan speed on #1 with the a/c yesterday on my way to work. After leaving work, the fan wouldn't come on until I turned it to #4. I tried changing the other controls but it didn't do anything. The fan will work only on high. I'm taking the car in next week to get it checked out. Has anyone else experienced this problem or know what the cause may be? Thanks.

altair4 · August 2006

Sounds like the resistor block is blown.

stephenss · August 2006

I am currently driving a 2004 GLS with manual shift and am buying this car off of lease. It has 75,000 miles and the leather boot around the shifter has some wear and cracking. The dealer quoted me over $200 for replacement saying that it only comes with the shifter.

Does anyone know of a place to just get a replacement boot?

Thanks,

Stephen

jl02 · August 2006

Hello, I have a 1997 VW Passat V6 GLX, Automatic and the problems I have are locking/unlocking the doors. First a right rear door is locked that I can not open it even with the door knob is up. Secondly, I have only one key that (I think is a master key) can start the engine but can not lock or unlock any doors.

Please help with any suggestions. Thanks.

altair4 · August 2006

I just did a Yahoo search under "VW Passat shifter boot" and came up with a bunch of possibilities. Probably not OEM, but does that really matter?

ofallon78 · August 2006

After doing a few searches, it does sound like that's the problem. Any idea as to why it would fail this early? Do you know if it's a sign of a bigger potential issue or any reason to make me concerned of other things going wrong? This is my first VW but have heard from other VW owners about having electrical problems with their cars.

krosfyah · August 2006

Here is a question that nobody has given me a decent answer to.

With a manual transmission and you are sitting at stop light, is it better to:

1. Hold the clutch in for the duration of the light thereby only pushing the pedel in once then letting go only when the light turns green.

2. Release the clutch requiring you to engage the clutch a second time when the light turns green.

It seems like option 2 would add additional wear and tear on the clutch because that engages the clutch twice as many times for every stop light. I've always done option 2 but at some point I wore out my clutch on my 2000 Passat and the service dept asked me if this was my first standard tranmission (implying I don't know how to drive). I feel my shifting is fine and am wondering if by disengaging the clutch at stoplights that puts addition wear and tear.

2nd Question:
When I get ready to get out of my Passast, the AC fan continues to run. I've heard it is better to let the car run until it turns itself off. If I turn off the car, the fan turns off right away.

cosmo · August 2006

Advice regarding 1st question:

http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1994/May/07.html

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1675807.html?page=2&c- - =y

2nd question: As long as your car ignition is on the electric radiator cooling will run if the A/C is on. If your engine is hot enough, the electric radiator cooling fan will run for awhile after you turn the engine off. If you have the turbo engine, let the car idle for a couple minutes after you have driven it hard, like coming into a rest stop or restaurant right off the freeway. That will cool the oil in the turbo.

papatsy · August 2006

My 99 Passat sunroof drain clogged during a heavy rain. Water destroyed the carpets, electrical systems, and the harness of the car. Am now waiting 45 days for the repair due to slow manufacture of parts in Germany. I wanted the car totaled, but insurance insisted on paying for repair. VW of America told me the car should have been in a garage. And that nothing is wrong with the car. That's a joke, I guess. They also told me I should maintain this drain regularly, although no information about when to do it or how to do it. Now I have to buy a new car or pay for a rental car with no end in sight. It won't be a VW.

Mr_Shiftright · August 2006

Definitely #2 causes less wear on clutch components, because the throw out bearing is engaged during #1 and hydraulic pressure is applied for a longer period of time as well. Whether or not this all adds up to anything serious is another matter.

wwoodhou · August 2006

Did the dealer fix the air intake seal? I have the same problem. The drains are not blocked by the way. My dealer kept saying that it's condensation from the air conditioner.
thanks...
bill w.

p.s.
I have a 2002 Passat

krosfyah · August 2006

Cosmo and Mr_Shiftright, thanks for the responses. Glad to know I was doing it right.

Unfortunately, that doesn't explain how I destroyed my clutch then. Do VW's have a history of bad clutches? I attribute my clutch going out (twice) a result of my engine getting flooded during a huricane and the dealer changed my turbo (twice) plus did countless other things. The car was never quite right after that. Plus I generally drive pretty hard.

I'm thinking of buying a GTI and trading in the Passat. The dealership said they'd give me 4,500 as a trade in. Given that it needs clutch and front-end work, I figure thats not a bad price.

papatsy · August 2006

My dealer never associated this problem with the air conditioner. They tested the car and found that it was the sunroof. Said the drain from it was clogged at the wheelwell area. The water went up into the car. I had 2 inches of water on the rear floor of the car after very heavy overnight rain. Suggest you have your sunroof system checked regularly. No one ever told me to do this, and now I have no car. And even when I get it back from the shop, no assurance that this won't happen again.

gatorcellman · August 2006

I'm considering purchasing a 2001 W8 and everything seems OK with the exception of the sales person says the battery needs replacing and they jumped the car so I could test drive. Later that night, I took the other half to show her the car, and every minute or so the parking lights would flash a few seconds then stop by themselves with no key or anything. Any idea what could be causing this? I'm almost positive that this is causing the battery to die, not that the battery is bad. Thanks for advise!

fish8 · August 2006

I'd be more concerned about this being a 2001 W8. VW didn't produce any W8's in 2001. Could it be a 2002?

gatorcellman · August 2006

Oh yeah....sorry. It was produced in december of 2001 as a 2002 model. OK, now that we cleared that up, any ideas what's going on?

jdhebert23 · September 2006

My 2001.5 Passat 1.8T just hit 100k on Friday. I even had my camera ready. I watched it flip on the interstate and my heart literally fluttered. I bought the car in March 2004 with 35k (yes, that's right: 65k in 2 1/2 years). Anyway, I've written previous posts in here (power steering whine, etc) and I must say that I still consider myself lucky. I read about all the problems that my fellow drivers are having with their Passats and I really haven't had that many problems with mine. Yesterday before taking the 150 mile trip back home, I put a treatment into the gas tank (I was very selective due to the turbo) and I noticed the improvement immediately. It was also supposed to clean the throttle body, fuel injectors and whatever else gas treatment is supposed to do. I set my cruise at 75mph and I achieved 32.3mpg overall. Before, I was getting about 27mpg overall. I can't remember the name of it, but it was very good stuff. I know it came in a silver can with a white top and was very strong. If anyone knows what I am talking about, I would recommend putting that in your car. My turbo was lagging but now it launches like it is supposed to. I hated my Passat for a while, but after reading some of these posts, and aside from the CEL perpetually lit up, I love it now. :shades:

gold2001 · September 2006

I recently got my v6 5speed 2001 passat from the auto body in which the drivers side rear quarter panel was damage not letting the trunk close or the rear door open. Since I've gotten my car back the first day it was over heating and the check coolant and service manual warning keep flashing. The next day I called the body shop to ask if any electrical work was done because I wanted to determine if it was a fuse/relay or water pump or thermostat that had to be replaced. When I was told to bring it in I tried to start the car it wont start the remote key wont lock my doors or open my trunk or will the trunk or gas door open from the door nor will the doors lock from the door lock. Is this defiantly an electrical problem or does vw have a shut down mechanism if the car over heats so that the engine doesn't burn out? :confuse:

600kgolfgt · September 2006

Good Job!!! :shades:

Did you replace the timing belt/serpetine belt/water pump yet?

I had the timing belt replacement done on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta @ 73,000 miles (which includes, the timing belt, serpentine belt, both hydraulic tensioners, and the water pump). Not because the timing belt or serpentine belt needed replacement (they could have easily gone another 25K-30K - based on the good condition of the belts), but because the water pump needed replacing (the plastic impeller was showing signs of disintegrating).

If you had the timing belt job done on your Passat, did you get the upgraded aftermarket water pump (with the metal impeller)? I have a feeling if the factory had used the metal impeller right from the get go, the timing belt change interval could easily increase to 100,000 miles.

Other than that, the Jetta is still running strong. I plan to have the water pump changed on my wife's 2003 Passat GLS (once it hits 70,000 miles) to the aftermarket water pump.

I wouldn't consider you lucky. I would bet that you maintained the car regularly (including VW 502.00 spec synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles), used the proper grade of fuel most of the time, and drove it properly (in other words, you didn't drag-race the car or drive it like a maniac). You're getting out of the car what you put into it.

I wish you many more good miles :shades:

antonio1g · September 2006

The same thing happened on my 02 Passat a few days ago, on a day-long rainstorm. Mopped up and started the car. There was basically no brake power and white smoke started coming out of the exhaust. Clogged sunroof drain, the dealer said. I find that hard to believe since the ceiling, dash and seats were all dry. In any case, water got into the engine and into the brake system (how?). Total estimated cost of repair: $1,100. This car has been nothing but headaches from day one, migraines after the warranty ran out. The last one was replacing the ABS module ($1,750, although VW agreed to cover one-third). I'm looking to get an 07 Camry before the next rainstorm hits.

antonio1g · September 2006

Thanks for the explanation. The cost of fixing my 02 Passat for just this problem was $1,100.

gold2001 · September 2006

Hey I got my answer, boy its good to have a bunch of mechanics in the family. The auto body shop crossed my wires when replacing my doors so that caused the short and not starting my doors or allowing the car to start or the key remote to work. The body shop fixed the problem no charge. Now the over heating is due to my fan clutch going out 115.00 for the part other than that the car is still good.

moonp786 · September 2006

Hi!

i'm looking into buying a 00 passat glx has just over 92,400 miles. It is in mint condition with heated leather seats, premium sound system with 6 disc changer in trunk, power everything, 5 speed tiptronic transmission, electronic climate control, 190 hp V6, power seats with memory, traction control and wood trim. The car needs (2) oxygen sensors which is what i'm worried about. Is this the problem that many passat owners have been dealing with their emissions stuff. the owner says it'll cost about 500 to fix. is this true? what do you guys think, is this a good investment for $7000? thank you!!! please help!!!

fish8 · September 2006

Don't Do It!!! That is an almost 7 year old car with allot (for a VW) of miles on it. The car sounds great, but the maintenance and repairs will drain your wallet. Was the timimg belt ever replaced? That is a huge expense that will raise it's head in the near future if it has not been replaced already!

altair4 · September 2006

Wouldn't consider unless it had documented immaculate care. If the timing belt hasn't been done, then deduct about $1,000 off the price (or budget that amount) for the replacement. The O2 sensors - heh, maybe that's all it needs. Maybe not. Personally, I wouldn't touch it.

jdhebert23 · September 2006

I had the timing belt replaced around 90k, as well as the water pump. I don't know what kind of water pump was put in. I know it was aftermarket, but I don't know if it has the metal impeller.

I haven't changed the serpantine belt yet. That is going to be next weekend when my step-dad comes to see me.

I get a fully sythetic oil change religiously every 5k-6k, which is usually every 2 to 2 1/2 months. I put a LOT of miles on my car. The oil change place I take it to is very reputable and knows the interval for my car, and I always request Mobil 1. I don't remember the weight they use, but I know it's in compliance with the maint schedule. It is still $50 per oil change, but I don't complain too much because everyone else I know has their oil changed every 3k for about $30, which means I am actually ahead by $10.

I also use 93 octane as MUCH as I can, but I usually slip up and use 87 every 5th or 6th tank on average just to save a little money when gas prices were $70+/barrel.

I will have to dispute, however, the comment you made about driving like a maniac...because I do drive like a maniac...lol I put Firestone Fuzion tires on it in July 2005, and they made the car handle SO well that I am already due for new tires.

They are just about bald from peeling out at stoplights (after disengaging the ASR), cornering at more than double the posted recommended speed in curves, etc. I keep the RPM's far away from the redline though, which might help keep the car in good shape. I think I have a worn engine mount, because sometimes I hear a clunk in there when I drive over some roads. I know the symptoms of a worn/failing engine mount because I experienced similar problems with past cars.

I did, however, notice a slight tap in the lifters the other day. My step-dad knows enough about engines to help me get that taken care of.

600kgolfgt · September 2006

> I had the timing belt replaced around 90k, as well as the water pump. I don't know what kind of water pump was put in. I know it was aftermarket, but I don't know if it has the metal impeller.

If you purchased the aftermarket water pump, chances are it is the improved version with the metal impeller.

I plan to have the timing belt/water pump/serpentine belt changed on my wife's car sometime next year. The auto parts site that I use - germanautoparts.com sells complete timing belt service kits which include the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump (with metal impeller), hydraulic tensioners , and thermostat with O-ring for around $285 (for the Passat).

The Mobil 1 (VW 502.00 spec) is the 0W40 European formula, which I've heard great things about. I use Castrol Syntec 5W40 on all three of my VWs. These engines are designed to last at least 400,000 miles (diesels are designed to go at least 500,000 miles) with the proper maintenance and oil changes. The original engine in my old 1987 Golf GT lasted 429,000 miles...

krzyss · September 2006

Any Mobil 1 is not good enough. You need 0W40 or any other oil meeting VW502.00 spec.

Krzys

delia21 · September 2006

Bought my 2001.5, v6, manual, brand new with 12 miles on it. Now has 55K. Only in the last six months i've become disgruntled because after 4 1/2 years:

-Fabric window liner strip on driver passenger side loosed and came off six months ago. Per dealer (Laurel, MD) cost to repair:$273. It's still hanging. Don't know if its connected but I can no longer open this window.
-Last month the liner strip on the front passenger window did the same thing. I called VWOA. Per rep I'm out my 2 yr warranty so not covered but I did get a reference number in case it comes up as a problem. To me it's poor workmanship and sb covered. Owned two Toyotas for 8 and 12 yrs respectively never had this issue.
-Sunroof opens and closes on its own. will have it looked at with oil change where I know the dealership (where I purchased the car) will tack on extras.
-Gobbles oil but I keep her well fed.

My Passat looks good on the outside and I still smile when I see it at the curb but she sure is looking ragged inside.

delia21 · September 2006

As mentioned in an earlier post, my rear driver side passenger window will not raise or lower and my sunroof is going haywire on occasion.

Would this be covered under the power train warranty? If not what major type items are covered?

papatsy · September 2006

It looks like I'm not the only one with Passat sunroof leaking problems. This is a fault in the design of the car. Volkswagon of America still has not answered my letter about all the problems and expense this sunroof has caused me. I am still waiting since mid-July for the damage to my car to be fixed. And no guarantee that it won't happen again! I don't think they know how to fix the sunroof. They are fixing the parts that got damaged by the water. Not the sunroof. I don't know what to do with the Passat-- whenever it gets fixed. The VW dealership told me they wouldn't buy it from me to resell. How's that for confidence in their product! VW lost me as a customer. Two weeks ago I bought a Subaru.

shengen · September 2006

Hi,
I am having the same problems you experienced so long ago. After a recall maintenace and driving the 2001 passat for 50 mi the MIL snesor lit and I paid $895 for the vacuum pump to be fixed. Is it possible the maintenance on the recalled breather hose/valve caused the vacuum pump to be damaged?
Have you had any responses to your issue in the time intervening?

altair4 · September 2006

Papatsy's issue wasn't a clogged sunroof drain, it was a clogged drains under the battery and under the brake booster. That's why the car lost braking power and had white smoke out the exhaust...the collected water was being sucked into the brake's vacuum system and into the combustion chambers.

My advice to you is to make sure that the problem is actually fixed. After it rains or after washing the car, check to see if you have any standing water under the battery. If you have a 2001.5 or newer car, you'll need to slide and remove the plastic hatch over the battery and peer in there with a flashlight.

Now, it is possible that the sunroof drains are clogged - it happens on Passats and other cars, too. But the clogged drains under the battery are pretty much a VW/Audi issue. VWoA will say it's a maintenance issue - the problem is they don't make any mention of cleaning these drains in the owner's manual or on their maintenance schedule. Plus the drains are not readily visible, being hidden under the battery and the brake booster. I'd say it's a poor design, no doubt.

Read this UK website for addressing this issue and cleaning these drains:

http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm

According to the Bentley shop manual for the Passat, you need to use a flexible long piece of wire to rout out any gunk in the actual sunroof drain lines. They sugget using a piece of speedometer cable which is probably available at your FLAPS.

Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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