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Had it in to the dealer this past Saturday for a free Customer Appreciation Event - 40 point "supposed" inspection. They refused to replace or even let me purchase new blades. The mechanic told me I had bad blades. Tell me something I don't already know....
The wipers do not clear the windshield of rain/ice/snow and make a VERY loud dragging noise over the windshield. VERY frustrating!! Anybody else experience this problem? How was the problem resolved?
I was told by the dealer that they needed to call Volkswagen next week to find out what they should do? DAH!! Perhaps installing a new pair of wiper blades might be an option? I found replacements at a local auto parts store and am going to purchase and install them myself! I'm not going to wait around for Volkswagen to get their act together.
What am I supposed to do in the meantime...don't drive the car whenever it snows out? Gee thanks Volkswagen, but this is MN!!
For a car I am so in love with it has been a big disappointment/will have to consider different brand next time or go back (oh no) to GM.
Both tires had no visual holes--both had sidewall damage.
In addition, I noticed that someone had written about worn out floor mats. I put a hole in the driver's side after 1 year.
Lastly, the running lights bulb has blown twice.
I like the car, thinks it drives well but was just wondering if anyone came across the above.
Thanks
The other place I just tried is Metric Auto Repair (Smith Ave., St Paul). I was referred there by an aquaintance as a good place for Saab work (just bought a '99 Saab last summer). I took it there for an oil change but was impressed with the guy in charge, who chatted with me for several minutes. I found out they not only call themselves "Saab specialists", but "VW specialists" as well).
On all occasions, (except Saturday) have received excellent service. However, I have been fortunate in that I am dealing with the service MANAGER, rather than an advisor. (due to my multiple problems) Although, the advisors have been very helpful and knowledgeable the few times I have worked with them.
I did just hear back from the manager regarding my wiper blades and I am being told that "their are no other reported problems with the wipers currently." I find that difficult to believe, with all the posts that are out here regarding this subject.
Therefore, my options are to come in and they will use some kind of 3m product to clean the windshield or else I can purchase new blades (for the "small" price of $60.00!! WOW!! For wiper blades???) I was told their are NO inserts for these wipers. I did swap the blades, passenger to driver, and appears to be working slightly better.
Give Maplewood a try next time, I think you will be pleased!!
I plan on installing replacements. No way is VW getting $60 from me for stinkin wiper blades!
Apparently a number of inserts will work, including some from Anco (N21R), Lexor (B), and Tripledge (22" standard). Even the VW dealer's inserts will apparently work (according to some other forums; house rules here prevent me from listing links) - try P/N:1J0955429A.
In some instances, you may have to cut the refill to fit. The entire task doesn't look that hard on our B5.5's. It's the way I'm going when the time comes to replace mine.
I deleted the previous post and listed a little more info, including the part numbers. Hope this helps.
I like how the new design hugs the glass (no unswept sections, unlike some of my past cars), but that chattering or stuttering problem can get on your nerves after awhile.
Thanks so much for the detailed information on replacement inserts. I am going to give one of the replacements you mentioned a try.
I agree. The new design is nice, in terms of the sweep. But that chatter!! UGH! LIke fingernails on a blackboard!!
...or a palm in an armpit! (sorry, couldn't resist that one!) ;-)
BTW, I have had precious few problems with this car (I hate to say it--I'm knocking on wood as I type)--BY FAR the best car I've owned in 25 years of driving. An absolute blast to drive! Yeah, I've replaced a couple of DRL's--no surprise after 85K, but they take 5 minutes to replace at $15 each. No big deal.
My only complaint is the need for premium gas--it really adds up when you drive 30K miles/yr but the mileage is very good (mid 20's overall, even w/ 75 MPH highway driving). I would buy another in a heartbeat, in fact I'm seriously considering the Toaureg for my family when the venerable minivan dies. If only they would change the name...I really hate that name!
First time to this board--had to throw my 2 cents in. I just scheduled my 2001.5 V6 Tip at the dealer for its first set of brakes w/ 85,000 miles on it. I'm seriously reconsidering after all of the msgs about $1000 brake jobs! I feel brakes are most impt and I'm willing to spend the money (within reason) to get the same quality as original. Is it a foregone conclusion that aftermarket shops like NTB or Pep Boys use lower quality parts to cut the price? Will I really save that much? I don't have time to do my own brakes any more. Any advice?
BTW, I have had precious few problems with this car (I hate to say it--I'm knocking on wood as I type)--BY FAR the best car I've owned in 25 years of driving. An absolute blast to drive! Yeah, I've replaced a couple of DRL's--no surprise after 85K, but they take 5 minutes to replace at $15 each. No big deal.
My only complaint is the need for premium gas--it really adds up when you drive 30K miles/yr but the mileage is very good (mid 20's overall, even w/ 75 MPH highway driving). I would buy another in a heartbeat, in fact I'm seriously considering the Toaureg for my family when the venerable minivan dies. If only they would change the name...I really hate that name!
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Hey man,
I have allways used regular in my 02 glx V6. It runs great.
That's 1,200 gallons of fuel per year. Around here, the price differential is $0.20 between regular and premium (although it's dropped to a narrower range lately). So 1,200 X .20 = $240 per year, $20 a month, $.66 a day or $0.008 per mile driven.
Some say that you get better fuel economy with the recommended fuel than with lower octane. I've never actually confirmed it. Power definitely gets rolled back, if the engine senses any knock. Car & Driver magazine On Line has an interesting article on this very topic (keyword is "premium").
Given the price of the car and the performance it gives, I don't see it as such an onerous cost. I view using synth oil versus dino the same way (but I drive a turbo, so more critical for me than you). YMMV (and probably does!).
I used the tripledge 22" standard refills. You need to pull the rubber insert out of the holder on these blades in order to place them in the aero blade.
Total time: 20 minutes, including time to search for some tools.
Tools needed: Pliers, small flat blade screw driver (optional), sharp knife (utility type), and a rag to prevent scraping the plastic end caps on the OEM wipers.
Degree of difficulty: Easy.
Total Cost: $6.88 plus tax (purchased at Walmart).
Money saved: about $55 over buying OEM replacments.
Can't wait for the next snow/sleet event to try them out. Using just the washers, they glided silently across the windshield.
It only took me about 15 minutes to do the replacement (I really expected it to take at least twice that). I used a screwdriver to pry off the end caps. One end of the wiper has a metal tab holding the blade in (I did not see such a tab on the other side). I pried the tab up a littler, and "voila" out came the blade.
The new blades went in effortlessly except for a spot where the blade had some sort of glue applied to hold it to the metal holder that the blade came in. I scraped that off, and it fit fine. After I inserted the new blade, I used a pliers to crimp the tab back down. Easy as pie. I replaced the end caps (again, very easy), and then slid the wipers back on the arms.
When we did a test wipe, there was no clattering, and the window was swept clean.
Total cost for front wipers: $5.23 That sure beats paying $80 at the dealer.
Take care!
My wife called the dealer and was asked if we had turned on the engine, moved the car a few feet, and turned it off. As a matter of fact, last night, I did just that (out of the garage to take out the trash). He told her that is what caused the problem this morning. He said something about the lifters not having enough time to do whatever they’re supposed to do and the car needs to run for about 5 minutes. I didn't speak to him, so I can't quote him directly.
This sounds like a load of you-know-what. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this before? I can't believe this is an issue, the car has been serviced regularly and is in excellent condition.
It's never happened to my '03, so perhaps they changed the engine mapping on the chip. OTOH, I never do this since I've heard of the issue before I bought the car.
Sounds like a defect that should be taken care of by Volkswagen, but I guess it's not critical.
Have a great holiday!
There was a TSB on this problem for early B5s:
"1998 and 1999 Passat 2.8L V6. Engine Cranks But Will Not Start.
If you experience engine cranks but will not start on a 2.8 Liter V6 Passat, perform the repairs listed in Technical Bulletin Group15, Number 00-01, dated March 24, 2000."
I found a copy of a similar AUDI TSB (also for the 2.8 liter engine) & put it in the glove box (just in case....): basically says "Hold throttle open and crank until engine starts..." (Perhaps with some basic diagnosis thrown in beforehand).
FWIW, have read discussion elsewhere of similar problems with some BMW's, and Speculation that [Perhaps] "the Passat shares a similar Bosch or Siemens engine management system as the
BMWs."
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I don't see the connection (bad pun) between what happened to you with the wiring and what your wife read. If the wires were incorrectly placed, then it would happen regardless of one window or all windows opening.
OTOH, some VW's have had issues with the window regulators and the pins that hold the glass in place.
PS: Don't you hate it when your car does something like that when your dad is visiting? Did you get "the look" from him?
The Passat wagon is still in the shop - the window regulator part was only ordered today - from the East Coast. The shop is closed for the Holidays so it looks like I'll be taking the rental up to Sequoia Nat. Park in the snow this vacation (another Honda Civic - Ugh!). I guess it serves me right for getting a car so close to the trip and not having enough time to break it in.
My friend tells me parts distribution for German cars is terrible. Japanense cars have the speediest distribution...
It was raining as hard as it ever has in the SF bay area but the sales guy insisted I drive this '04 GLX 5 speed wagon. He was soaked by the time he brought it around.
I am 6' 3" and was impressed by the leg room. I opted not to drive the freeway and took it down the street next to the dealer. I stayed away from any puddles, drove slowly and never got past 3rd gear.
I was almost back to the dealership when the everything went dead. The engine stopped and every light went off. It was a total electric shutdown.
We walked back leaving the car in the middle of the street. I had a raincoat but the poor salesman only had his suit.
Was this a freak occurance or another symptom of VW's electrical problem legacy? Any comments as to the cause?
I have a 2004 GLX 4motion automatic wagon with 3500 miles. The engine makes a low and loud rumbling sound when idling in park, or neutral or drive. Also seeing average 17MPG in town and best I ever got on highway is 22.5 MPG.
VW tech listened to te engine and said it is normal to have some low rumbling on this v6 becasue of second air pump. He said if noise gets louder, he will check it at 5K service. Tech also advised that mileage will get better after break-in.
I also have a 2002 GLX v6 sedand with 5-speed and 35K miles. Never heard any rumbling, the car is silent in neutral. Also always had good mileage and typically see 27 MPG on daily hwy commute.
Any feedback is really appreciated!
My (extensive) experience with Toyota is that at least they try to turn their lemons in to lemonade and come to a fair settlement. VW says "tough luck" as though it is a pretty common thing for your steering to wear out with less than 60k on the car. Other experiences out there?
Even if the battery had been dead, the vehicle had been running at least 15 minutes and went dead while I was driving it. There had to be a bad connection somewhere.
I am still considering buying a Passat but I don't think I want that particular vehicle.
Anyway, since we have a factory 6 disc changer I was hoping to replace just the head unit. I hear that after market units in VWs are tricky and may void VW from working on your car. Anyone have advice as to what unit looks good, gives decent sound along with (or without) the XM unit and what to watch out for during the install?
Have your radio code handy...you'll need it after removing the battery. Or you can use one of those 9v battery computer memory savers.
The car smoked a bit when they started testing it, but since hasn't done it (it's been at the shop three days now and they've tested it each day). They say the car looks fine and that everything's running okay for now. The problem is, they say this could happen again and until they can determine the problem it can't be fixed. Apparently something like this could be an easy fix, or end up costing thousands down the line.
Has anyone heard of this happening? Do you know the cause? It was about 6 degrees Saturday morning so perhaps the extreme cold triggered something. The car is not under any type of warranty but I wonder if Carmax sold me a car with problems (though they have a "quality check"). Any advice is appreciated.
Jeremy
You can find your build date on the driver's door jamb, on the door frame.
To verify the coil pack used, you'll need to remove the engine cover (I think there are three "quarter-turn" fastners). The coil packs are the four black units on the top of the engine. Just take a peek at the part number...ends in H is the problematic series. If it ends in J or later letter, you've got the new series. If it's the old series, call your dealer to get the new ones under the recall program.
What's the status of the engine light now? Is it off? If blinking, you're supposed to stop the engine, I believe. Take a look at your owner's manual.
While I've got your attention, check to see if you have the updated rear wheelwell guard, also under recall. You can tell it's the new one if you can see shiny steel under the right rear fender, behind the wheel.
I want to check the condition of the pollen filter, battery and that crazy drain hole under the battery, but for the life of me, I can't get that black rubber gasket, that holds the cowling in place, off of the car.
I've tried starting it from the center and from the corners, but it's not budging. Which way does it peel off? Do you start it by pulling from the windshield side forward, the engine side backward, or what? I know I'm gonna tear that thing - it's like it's glued to the metal.
Any helpful tidbits of advice on the removal would be most appreciated!