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THANKS :surprise:
How do you change the alternator easily? It's kind of wedged in there. Is the alternator the only problem? What would have caused this? Will putting in a new alternator fix the problem? Will I have to replace anything else?
Thanks a lot!
Thanks
Let's say you are a DIY kind of person. Well, then I won't have any real issue with buying other than OEM parts.
OTOH, if you are planning to go to an Indy or dealer for service, they may be willing to use your parts, but they won't give a warranty on them. "So what?", you say.
What if they put the whole thing back together and the water pump leaks? The parts supplier will say it's the tech, and the tech will say it's bad parts. You will be stuck in the middle.
Personally, I think I going with OEM parts for everything other than the water pump. The OEM pump has a plastic impeller that has some history of deteriorating and jamming the blades. I'm going with OEM on everything else, including the O-ring on the water pump from VW. But I'll probably have the dealer do the work.
If I go to the indy shop, then I'll need to talk with them about the water pump construction first.
thanks Altair
It has a 5-speed manual transmission that has worked flawlessly for just about a year now, as long as I've had it. Just yesterday I drove it out to buy some new insurance for it and when trying to back out of my parking space, I realized I had no reverse. Once I got it on the road via pushing it, I soon realized I only had 3rd and 4th gear. To further detail the situation, when I shift up it will always go into third, when I shift down it will always go into 4th. It does not matter if I shift up and into a corner - I can put the shifter into the spot for first gear and it will go into third gear anyway. Better yet, while it is in gear I am able to move the shifter around horizontally as if there were no other gears to the sides, no resistance.
Once the car is up to a decent speed, third and fourth gears work perfectly like there is nothing wrong with the car. I guess it would be the transmission and the car is shot, but I just don't know. Any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated as I am in no way prepared to junk the car.
Continental is the supplier for the timing and serpentine belts, so make sure the belts you purchase outside of the dealer are made by Continental (or Conti for short).
In the case of the 1.8T, the timing belt kits usually include the upgraded waterpump with the metal impeller (instead of the OEM plastic waterpump), and that in itself makes buying the kit worthwhile...
Thanks again.
Otherwise, I'd go with an indy VW mechanic (if you know of any - I am fortunate that I have 2 close by me to go to) or pay and use the VW dealership. However not all VW dealers are created equal so you may need to re-assure yourself that they are competent.
From you earlier post, I thought the indy estimate was a little light - the dealership estimate is closer to reality. Again just my opinion and I hope this helps.
BTW, I had my TB @ 90K miles (I'm at 135K now) done by a dealership and I think they lost $ from my job becuase they didn't have the part they thought they did and I ended with a Jetta loaner for 2 days ...
Lastly aftermarket OEM parts are OK by me.
I would definitely go to a mechanic who specializes in either European cars or VWs. I wouldn't recommend taking your car to just any shade tree mechanic.
It all boils down to your comfort level. If you have any doubts whatsoever, then take it to the dealer - which is apparently the option you have decided to take.
Best of luck - and please let us know the outcome of taking it to the dealer.
Also, how often should I be doing trans fluid changes? I've seen 30000k on web.
Re-read your manual carefully. Mine says that 5,000 miles is the maximum OCI and that under certain conditions it should be less.
What is this mixing part name?
Krzys
The car is very cranky in the morning and particularly if it has not been driven for more than 24 hours.
It sputters ... the check engine light goes on and off and it generally gives the impression that it is about to break down because something is really wrong.
Then my wife turns around and comes home - takes my car and leaves me with the Passat. I work from home and when I go to test the vehicle a couple of hours later it always starts and drives fine. But it's not even cold out yet and I need this car to be a reliable morning car!
Did this ever get resolved for you? What can you tell me about the resolution?
Thanks!
Have you had the computer scanned for codes? You can get this done at some of the national auto parts stores, like AutoZone and Advance Auto, for free. Post up the codes and/or just Google them and see what shows up.
Motronic Engine Mgmt System
P0300
Misfire recognized
P0301
Cyl 1
Misfire recognized
P0341
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Implausible signal
---------------------------------
Action taken:
The ECM was reflashed and I guess that cleared the codes.
Of course I really didn't know what that meant but upon some research it appears that the Engine Control Module (ECM) needed a software upgrade.
So they performed that programming upgrade using SVM and evidently that fixed the car ???? We'll see. I am not optimistic.
Do you have any thoughts on this one? That camshaft thing bothers me ...
-thanks
You will 3.5mm OD tubing and if you do all the vac hoses, ~10ft/3m is sufficient.
So: -- can I safely ignore this? Or not?
Thanks!
So, my suggestion, don't let him touch the seals!
Next question: the dealership says one should NOT use the metal-impeller water pump. (The foreign-car mechanic says one should.)
According to the dealer, they've "heard a lot about the metal-impeller pumps leaking." So they stick with the "genuine VW part," which is plastic.
According to the foreign-car mechanic, the plastic-impeller water pumps, which were also adopted by BMW, sometimes disintegrate, sometimes badly damaging the engine. So they only use metal-impeller pumps. They also charge a lot more.
Who to believe? Anyone know anything definitive?
Thanks again!
As for water pump, I replaced my with the aftermarket metal impeller one. I have read too many stories in multiple forums that recommend against the plastic impeller (I had mine returned to me after the new one was installed and it looked fine - I have nearly $100k miles on it). I had the whole timing belt kit (which I ordered online to save $$ - i can provide if you're interested).
I'm no expert in any of these matters, but I have been reading many, many articles on these issues and went with what my gut told me. For your info, it cost me $350 for labor to install the whole timing belt kit (tb, water pump, stationary idler roller, serpentine belts, tensioner roller, and tensioner damper). And, this cost did include the seals. The dealer wanted $760, not including seals.
So good luck on this and let me know what you decide. Oh yes, look at purchasing the Bentley's manual as you'll learn alot and know what questions to ask. I got it for $82 online.
- Cheers!
Passat requirements.
AMSOIL Synthetic European Car Formula is formulated to surpass the most demanding European specifications. It is recommended for European and North American gasoline or diesel vehicles requiring any of the following worldwide specifications:
API SM/CF
ACEA C3-04
ACEA A3/B3-04
ACEA A3/B4-04
BMW LL-04
Mercedes Benz 229.31, 229.51
Porsche
Saab
Volvo
Volkswagen 502.00, 505.00, 505.01
If you are under warranty and don't want any squabbles, bear that in mind. However, having said that, using Amsoil with within the 5,000 mile max OCI, you probably won't have any sludge issues anyway.
FWIW, I wasn't directing this post at you, more to support what you were saying.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Anybody got any more info on this, though?
Thx.
And let's look at the numbers:
Let's assume 15,000 miles a year driving, $0.25 a gallon difference in price between 87 and premium (the current difference in my market), and 22 miles per gallon (EPA city rating) for the year. For ease of discussion, we'll assume the same MPG using either grade....
So, you would use 681 gallons of fuel in a year. That's $170.25 difference between regular and premium a year, $14.19 a month, or $0.47 a day. Personally, I don't think that is price difference is that big a deal when you consider the price of the car.
Also, if you fact in the efficiency difference that might exist, it could easily be a moot point. YMMV, in the truest sense of the phrase.
-thanks