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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    well as replacing the coolant temp sensor ($220).

    OUCH!!!!
    Sorry to hear that...

    The dealer took you for a ride. I just had the coolant temp sensor replaced on my wife's 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T at a private mechanic (specializing in VWs) for $96 (OEM parts and labor). I only take the car to the dealership for oil changes and recalls.
  • billywu78billywu78 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy a dependable (yet, comfortable and as-not-boring-as-possible) car in the $6-8k range that I can use for primarily city driving for the next 6-12 months. I've come across a 1999 Passat with 67k miles, V6, automatic, leather, sunroof, alloy wheels, etc. The asking price is $7k and I feel like I may have some leverage in the price b/c the timing belt has not yet been replaced. So, I have two questions:

    1. I really like the Passat versus the Accord. Price-wise, a comparable Accord tends to have 100k+ miles, but usually has had the timing belt replaced. Which is the better decision?.
    2. What is the likelihood that I'll need to replace the timing belt if I own the car from 67k miles at a maximum of 73k miles over the next year?

    Thanks for your help!
  • tom151tom151 Member Posts: 2
    Four years ago I purchased a 1999 Passat V6 with about 35,000 miles on it for my daughter. We had the car checked out and did a couple of required maintenance items. Since then we have had nothing but trouble. Despite doing all the preventive maintenance, the car has cost us about $4,500 in breakdown maintenance the first three years. The car has broken down in highway situations three times. This year we spend $2,600 fixing the car before my daughter went back for her last year of school. Last week in freeway traffic, a sealed bearing in the engine failed, causing the engine to stop immediately and doing about $5,500 or more in damage to the engine and attached components. The VW mechanic said there was nothing we as owners could have done to prevent the failure. The dealership offered me $500 as-is for the car plus an extra bonus for "customer loyalty" if we traded the car in on a new model. My sense of humor does not extend that far. My recommendation is run don't walk to the exit, a used Passat is unreliable, dangerous and a money pit.
  • jpmnovajpmnova Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for your reply. Is there an easy way to try to locate private mechanics that specialize in VW's that you (or anyone else) might know of? It's certainly a great way to go, just seems tricky to find one....
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Since I live on the East Coast, I have access to several VW mechanics. The one I usually go to is New German Performance (NGP) in Aberdeen, MD. That's where I took my wife's Passat to get the coolant temp sensor replaced.

    What area of the country do you live in?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    2. What is the likelihood that I'll need to replace the timing belt if I own the car from 67k miles at a maximum of 73k miles over the next year?

    If I were you, I would get it replaced immediately. The factory timing belts on pre 2001.5 Passats (1998 through early 2005) were designed to last 60,000 miles.

    The newer timing belts today are designed to go at least 100,000 miles. So my advice to you is to get the timing belt replaced now - to be on the safe side.

    Normally, on the 2001.5 Passats, the water pump (with a plastic impeller) has to be changed every time you change your timing belt, but since you have a 1999, your water pump is the older (and more durable) all-aluminum design which will last at least 180,000 miles.

    Bottom line - inform the seller you will either pay the $7,000 (provided they have the timing belt changed) or you will offer $6,000 and get the timing belt changed yourself.

    If you don't feel comfortable with either option, then I would look elsewhere for a car purchase.

    HTH, & Good Luck...
  • sbopassatsbopassat Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2003 Passat Wagon and just learned we need a new radiator. Does anyone know what the lifespan of a radiator should be? We love our Passat but there is always something needing repair. Ugh.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I would say 5 years is on the short end, but I replaced the Civic's radiator at 8 years and the Accord radiator at 7 years. Did you follow the recommended fluid flush intervals? That adds considerably to their lifespan by reducing corrosion.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    If they followed the owner's manual and VW's web site, then they wouldn't have changed the coolant at all. Both will say it's "lifetime" coolant, just like they say the timing belt is due at 105,000 miles.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    If they followed the owner's manual and VW's web site, then they wouldn't have changed the coolant at all. Both will say it's "lifetime" coolant, just like they say the timing belt is due at 105,000 miles.

    Wow, my last Audi had to use the equivalent of holy water in its cooling system and it had to he changed every 2 yrs or so. Even the domestics require changin coolant after 5 years and thats considered long life.

    I know in the 80s BMW got into trouble for having ridiculous maintenance costs. To combat that they started to include maintenance for the first few years. Then I think they realized how expensive it was, and they started to eliminate maintenance items like transmission and differential fluid changes, and much less frequent oil changes, etc. I don't think I would buy a post-E46 BMW because of this. I didn't realize VW did it too.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I didn't realize VW did it too.

    1998 through 2005 Passat powertrains are basically Audi components - and as such they tend to charge accordingly for maintenance...
  • schillageschillage Member Posts: 1
    The engine on my volkswagen 98 passat is shaking a lot during start up and is barely drivable. The free check I did on it said it was a P0304 which is the 4th cylinder misfiring. I blieve it might be just a coil pack problem but I was wondering if anyone had any advice or extra knowledge on what to do or what it cold be, what I should expect to pay or how to handle it. Please let me know.
  • rahmibubrahmibub Member Posts: 39
    After driving our 2006 GLX Passat for 5 years, here's the tally for the repairs on the vehicle...

    Home-Link buttons replaced 2X
    Rubber molding on the door handles rubbing off
    Windshield drain clogged up and had to be cleaned
    Brake Pads replaced

    I'll be honest, I was surprised that it has been this reliable - but that's a good thing.

    The country of origin was Germany, Emden plant.

    As for their other models, my wife and I will still steer clear of them....
  • simonbarkersimonbarker Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, I can see your comment is old, did you ever get a resolution to this issue? I bought a 2007 model Passat in Aug 2006. I have always had a problem with the transmission in exactly the way you describe. I think it is actually dangerous, in that if you donot actually STOP, it really gets confused at low speed. Most dangerous example is to cross a lane of traffic, I put my foot down, NOTHING, the car just sits there for several seconds, deciding which gear to be in. I really think one day there will be an accident. I took it back to the dealer many times and eventually they simply told me it was a 'feature' of the gearbox, are they crazy! I contacted VW who said that they had not heard of the problem and relied on local dealers. So as the dealer isn't going to report the problem, I am stuck. I like VWs, I like the Passat, I hate the gearbox. Any comments most welcome.
  • centcent Member Posts: 3
    My 2006 passat low controls arms are gone, one volkswagen dealership tells me. The dealership where I purchased it from says that there is nothing wrong with my car, the squeaking sound like an old spring mattress is all in my head.
  • tommy8stommy8s Member Posts: 8
    Our 2002 Passat had that problem - 24,400 miles but out of warranty. Supposedly the transmission module is bad. We are to pick up the car within a few days. The 1st sign of the problem was like I ran over a 4" x 4" board on the Interstate. On the return trip home that night the same thing happened. On both occasions there was nothing on the road. Then we had the no power problem. e mail me in a few days. The module is $2500. And VW is aware of our problem - (their) Ref # 702 559 16.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    What year do we have today?

    ;-)

    Brake pads are wear item and I would not count them as repair.

    Krzys
  • cragg3rcragg3r Member Posts: 16
    my 1999 passat glx has the same problem even though it has 144 K miles on it. For the longest time I thought my transmission was giving in. But you are saying its a transmission module problem. It still costs 2500 dollars which is a hefty price. Tell me if it actually fixes the problem!
  • sahndtrapsahndtrap Member Posts: 1
    We have 2000 Passat and we can only get cool to warm air to come out. No interior smell. Car heats up fine according to thermostat.
  • cragg3rcragg3r Member Posts: 16
    bought it at 122000 miles, knew there was something wrong with it because I only paid 4k at a dealer.

    Expected the initial repairs-
    replaced passenger side tie rods because the car kept bumping on something.
    leaks fluid all the time, usually oil.
    then did the whole timing belt, serpentine belt, thermostat, water pump, valve cover gasket and the rest in that area, cost $2000 at dealer. but after that repair supposedly according to an independent mechanic, dealer forgot to put the belly pan back and forgot some clips on some hoses. took it back to the dealer, they say it could have fallen out at some point! yea right!
    leaking stopped for a while, now it still leaves small spots.. thats fine with me

    now at 144k miles i need a lot of suspension parts up front. I noticed the problem when I heard clicking sounds usually when i turn at low speeds. Then the problem worsened to a point where i thought i was driving the flinstones car with the square tires. need both axle CV shafts, ball joints, tie rods (again? but im thinking its the outer driver side this time)
    $1600 dollars is where I am at right now at the independent mechanic.

    And then Ive had that transmission problem that was posted before where the car hesitates to kick down a gear on an automatic trans, when i try to accelerate (problem goes away if i floor it- i usually switch it to triptronic and shift down usually to fix the problem before i actually damage something).. but the problem is pretty rare so i havent done much about it. I know I sound like I dont take care of problems till it all goes wrong, but I am a college student and I might as well be driving a brand new bmw 3-series off a cliff every year, considering how much i spend on college.

    So I was wondering, other than what im thinking is that transmission module, how much more money do you think I could put into this car? Is it time to sell or is this car going to do well, now that I have replaced most of the faulty parts?
  • jpmnovajpmnova Member Posts: 15
    Thanks 600kgolfgt. I live in Orange County, NY.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I live in Orange County, NY.

    You're definitely in luck. Rapid Parts over in Rockland County is a place I highly recommend that specializes in VWs and Audis. I've been dealing with them for over 10 years. Here's the link:

    http://rapidparts.com

    Here's the link for directions to the facility:

    http://rapidparts.com/rpeContactUS.aspx
  • tommy8stommy8s Member Posts: 8
    picked it up Friday and have put over 100 miles on - appears to have fixed the problem. Also engine light was on at the same time previously - was on for about 20 miles Friday then went out. Will reply if the problem starts all over again
  • jrwoodalljrwoodall Member Posts: 1
    altair 4 - did you get an answer to this question? I am a new owner (bought for my daughter) and have already spent more on maintenance in the first year of owning a 2003 4 cyl passat than I have spent on the last 4 other cars combined... hate to think I am going to have to pay the dealer to replace the battery, but don't want to damage the gasket and don't see how it comes out.

    any help would be appreciated...

    thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Yes, I did figure it out. As you look at the engine with the hood up, standing in front of the car, the gasket will pull directly towards you, kind of in the horizontal plane. I usually just start it in the middle and firmly pull it off. You need to work it a little around the driver's side (US driver's side, that is), but it will come clear enough to remove the plenum cover. The cover itself lifts a bit and then you pull it towards you.

    Good luck with the battery exchange.
  • blightholderblightholder Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 Passat I am trying to change the rear driver's side marker light on as well. Does anyone know how to get to the bulb? I thought about going in through the trunk, but the cloth insulation will be fairly complicated to remove. If that doesn't have to come out it will be a lot easier.
  • tommy8stommy8s Member Posts: 8
    I have put about 300 miles on since I picked up the 2002 Passat. The problem with the transmission seems to have been remedied by replacing the transmission module. Hope this helps.
  • ugot2bkdngugot2bkdng Member Posts: 1
    Our 2002 Passat wasn't heating. Tech said no water circulation. Replaced thermostat, water pump(plastic impeller broken, retrieved piece), back flushed heater core. All back together, good circulation at radiator. Driving at highway speeds get heat. Idle or slow traffic, blows cold. Tech thought possible bad thermostat, replaced, no change. So at a loss for a reason. Right now the next step under consideration is add an electric auxiliary in-line water pump to work with the heater side of the controls. Any other suggestions?
  • evilzevilz Member Posts: 5
    Hi all,
    I had the car battery replaced (aftermarket) on my 2003 Passat and now pushing the unlock button twice on the remote doesn't unlock the passenger doors anymore...
    The radio still works, as does the single touch windows and truck release, but no more passenger door unlock.

    Suggestions?
  • irish20irish20 Member Posts: 7
    I have an '02 Passat and would like to add heated seats, but would like to avoid going through the dealer. I've checked all of the after market websites and cannot locate any. Any suggestions? Or, is the mechanism embedded in all seats and all I have to do is connect them and add the switches to the dash? Thanks for input.
  • ethulinethulin Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a used 2000 Passat. I have noticed that after leaving the car to sit for as little as one hour all the windows have condensation build up. This is strongest on the rear side windows and the rear window. What might be causing this and what could I do to remedy it?

    Thanks,
    - Erik
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Three things come to mind (in order of likelihood. IMHO):
    1) You've got a water intrusion problem in the passenger compartment. Pull out all of the mats and thoroughly check the carpeting to see if any of it is wet. Water can enter the car if the drain plugs for the sunroof are clogged or, more probably, if the drains in the air plenum (under the hood where the battery lives) are clogged. Water gets in through the HVAC system.

    2) Your heater core is leaking coolant.

    3) Your A/C condensate drain is clogged.

    I'm thinking #1 is most likely since this is a relatively well-known and not uncommon occurrence, but you should check the coolant level to be safe.

    Read this link for some ideas on how to check and clean the plenum drains:

    http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm

    If you find water in the interior floor carpets, you may want to check into the condition of your CCM (comfort control module) and TCM (transmission control module). Both of these live in wells under the carpet in the front. Neither takes well to being immersed in water. Good luck.
  • kaaekaae Member Posts: 4
    FOURTEEN weeks later and The Garage towed her car back home. :confuse: Sorry lady, this car is Unrepairable, No Charge :( . It's not even paid for...buying it from her ( does it get worse ) boss...the business's owner..So it's...pay this one off...buy another used car...3 children and minimum wage.. :cry: .ugh! whoa...is this negative or what? Sorry folks. :blush: .. A better year, everyone..
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yeesh, is it at least put back together and driveable sans wipers?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kaaekaae Member Posts: 4
    put back together...yes...wipers ..blower motor ...they do not function...still...oh, and as of today...her boss wants to sell her another vehicle :surprise: not really :P ... thanks for your interest and your replies...:)
  • deano135deano135 Member Posts: 1
    jrad,
    thanks for your post. am having the same problem and think it is related to the fender well not being properly fastened to the skid plate. am looking for good place to purchase new fender wells and fasteners. any ideas??

    Thanks,

    deano135
  • robjamorobjamo Member Posts: 1
    Not sure if you solved your water problem yet but I was surfing and saw your post. I had a similar problem with my '00 Passat 4motion. I finally found it to be the drains that are located by the door hinges. I opened the door on the passenger side and found a rubber nipple sticking out of the door jamb by the hinges. When I pinched it about a pint of water came out of it. I had been having wet carpets on the passenger side floor during the summer and could never figure it out. At one point the water got in to the transmission ECU and the car stopped shifting. Since I cleaned the drain and put a little silicone grease on it to keep it from sticking closed I have had no water problems. Hope this helps if you haven't already figured it out yourself.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    There was a recall recently issued on some model year Passats which directs the removal of the drain plug under the battery and brake booster and also cuts the ends off those rubber tubes by the front door upper hinges. My tech did that on my car even though I wasn't actually covered by the recall action. Gives me a little peace of mind. You might just want to cut off the ends yourself.

    Even now, I check those nipples to make sure they are dripping when ever I get out of the car while it is raining....
  • interpolnycinterpolnyc Member Posts: 1
    Hello.
    I'm posting in regards to my 2001 VW Passat 1.8L Turbo.
    I will simply list all the issues with my car and I am hoping to get advice on whether or not to sell it or pay for repairs.

    Right and Left Outer CV Boots Torn : $750
    Timing Belt and Tensioner due to Oil Leak : Oil Soaked Timing Belt and all drive belts cracking: $795
    Engine Oil Shield Damaged and L/R wheel liners damaged: $585

    On top of those I'm scheduled to have my oil leak $350, fixed at the end of this month.

    Bottom line is I can't afford all of these repairs. I'm a college student keeping afloat by student loans.

    I researched the kelley blue book values of this car. Around $8,000 private sale around $6000 trade in.
    The issue is that I need a car. So do I try to sell this one and use the money to find a better condition used car (if so, what would people recommend) or do I go ahead and pay for these repairs?!

    I don't know much about cars, repairs or sales so any advice would be appreciated!

    Thank you for your time.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You don't mention the condition of the car otherwise (tires, brakes, body, interior), but I wouldn't put too much trust in the KBB values, but if you can get $8,000 for the car, I'd suggest getting rid of it and moving into something more recognized for reliability. As a college student, you don't have the time or money to be sinking it a Passat. Other issues likely to rear up and bite you are front suspension/steering problems (look up tie rod ends and upper and lower control arms for this car).
  • davec9davec9 Member Posts: 2
    My car is building pressure in the cooling system and pumping water out of the expansion tank.
    They keep putting on new parts. So far they have replaced both water pumps.3 sensors.and a new radiator 2 CO2 test both negative.. also put on a newexpansion tank and they still tell me they are not sure what is wrong.
    Please help me.
    Carol
  • spielmanfmspielmanfm Member Posts: 2
    Armrest cover hinge broke, I fixed it but know I do no know how to put it back on the armrest. Can anyone help me? Thanks
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Just thinking out loud here, but maybe a blown head gasket is letting engine gas into the coolant?? What's the 2 CO2 tests mean?
  • craigers77craigers77 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 1.8T and just yesterday when I turned off the car a fan (sounded like a vacuum cleaner) kept on running. I hadn't heard it before but figured it would be ok. The fan turned off after a few minutes, but then when I went out to the garage 30 minutes later it was on again, then went off, then back on. I was worried about the battery so I disconnected it for the night. This morning I was hoping the disconnect reset its brain, but alas as soon as the battery was hooked back up it started whiring. I haven't noticed any change in driving performance.

    The fan (well noise) is located (when standing at the front of the care) to the left of the engine underneath the air intake hood. Anyone know what it is and/or how to fix it? thanks.
  • seby3seby3 Member Posts: 4
    I was wondering if anyone has or knows where can i find the complete wiring diagram of a passat 3c from 2006. Thank you!!
  • davec9davec9 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply.
    I meant to say they did two seperate CO2 test.
    A CO2 test is a sniffer that detects exhaust fumes in the coolant.They also did one on the exhaust,looking for coolant in the exhaust fumes. Said they did not find any .
  • kidorykidory Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Passat that needs the right front turn signal assembly replaced. I have lookied at the new assemblies, but for the life of me, I can't tell how to install the thing. Where does the rear hook latch and how do you access it to latch it??

    Thanks in advance!
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Well, I'm stumped. The only other thing I can think of is there is an obstruction that's allowing the engine to overheat and build pressure. Sorry, I've got nothing else....
  • bloodrangerbloodranger Member Posts: 1
    true milage of 95000 .
    the car as been running great for the 4 years i have had it not ever put a spanner on apart from the timing belt was done by vw 7 months ago serviced done by my self on the intervals .synthetic oil used all the time .passed every mot emissions perfect below 1% till a about 2 months ago it starting losing power for no reason on acceleration ,it would go from normal drive power to only doing about 70 miles and hour ..i when out the other day and its started fine till i reversed off the driven and it cut out for no reason ans its not started since.

    problems to start with
    the fuel line pump for some reason has air bubbles in the clear plastic pipe just by the pump ,this was happening when they tried to start the car the other day .with the above diagnosed problem ,apparently if the n75 sensor is faulty it will not affect the car from starting .and if the turbo was faulty this would also not cause the car not to start .because you don't use the turbo and till you put power on the throttle .
    .i have taken the fuel filter off the car and its not even half full ,turned the car over and its no fuel getting through to the filter or coming through pipes ,but i have quarter of tank of diesel ..???????? i was told to hold the 2 diesel pipes in a separate container of diesel to by pass the tank for possible air intake leaks,i have no success in doing this as the pump still wont pick up the fuel from the by pass container tempory tank,there is lots of bubbles still in the clear pipe when i do this ,do i tried to bleed the fuel today get the pump the fuel dose pick up but still has lots of air /bubbles in line ??????eis the the pump the suspected
    problem .because i have been told that the pump if there is not enough fuel getting through this will cause the same problems as the first problem

    its belching whitish smoke but it do sort of clear when on idle .the car is very hard to start or turn over . because the car have been standing for a few days and we have been trying to start it and took some time to get it to go because when the guy was putting easy start in the pipe for sometime the accelerator was not responding till the burned fuel was burned off its very had to explain .the turbo is making a very strange clicking noise but you only here this noise twice and then the car runs fine and till you take your foot of the accelerator again its just whitish smoke not oil coming out of the exhaust just soot ,the car will not start since green flag got it to go .
    as any one had this problem with type of car before.


    thanks alan
  • redrose_rockerredrose_rocker Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a black 1997 Passat GLX sedan, 6 cylindar. I bought this car six months ago from the local VW mechanic. When i bought the car it shifted a little bit hard, but other than that, no problems. The person who owed the vehicle before me had put around 2 grand into the transmission, it would not work right. She had taken it to the VW Dealership in State College, PA, and got tired of throwing money into the car and sold it to the guy i bought it off of. He put a new transmission in it, and fixed a few other things before selling it to me.
    Now soon after I bought it, my car began slipping gears. It got so bad I had to shift manually. It was never in the right gear, sometimes it would pull out of an interesection in 3rd gear and just dog along. I discovered the only way to make my car run correctly, was to floor it. As odd as that sounds, every time I floored my car it stopped slipping gears, stopped slamming into gears, and ran fine. I no longer had to manually shift it. So i thought I was alright.
    Well about a week ago my car started doing something else. It stopping shifting right altogether. It wouldn't go out of first gear until (according to the RPM gage on the dashboard) it hit bewteen 40 RPM's and 45 RPM's. But it has quit slipping gears. Then between 2nd and 3rd gear, it wouldn't shift until it hit around 50 RPM's. Even then it was sometimes a fight to get it into 3rd. The ONLY way to get it to shift is - you guessed it - flooring it. Once I did that it would go into the right gear, and not mess up, and continually shift correctly until I stopped the vehicle.
    Now the computer in my vehicle was thinking that every time I hit the gas on my car, that I was flooring it. When I actually did put the pedal to the medal it seemed to override that and run properly. It got continually confused, sometimes on my dashboard all the gears would highlight like my car didn't know what gear it was in. Also, when i pulled out from places or headed uphill, it would jerk forward and back for a few seconds until I floored it. It was explained to me that this computer thought I was hitting the brake and gas at the same time to cause that effect. Now my mechanic has replaced this computer, which resolved some of the problems, but my car is still not sure what gear to go in or what gear it is in. Has anyone else had this problem or one similiar to it? Or perhaps know what could be wrong? I appreciate any response!
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