Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

1545557596065

Comments

  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Altair4,
    Thank you for your keen insight. I have no access to normal equipment and such, so I've had the car towed to a VW service center. I'm leaving it there for them to completely dry out the car and try to salvage the electronic components. I don't know how much it will cost me, but they looked like they've done this before. I just hope the electronic components are not permanently damanged and can be dried out.
    Thanks to you and Krzys, I felt relieved to know the cause of this bizarre problem. Now the only stress remaining is the pricetag of the repair.

    Thanks again.

    Navy Guy
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Dear Altair4 and Krzys,
    I think the Korean VW dealership addressed the water intrusion sources, including the drain under the battery and the sunroof hoses. Now, they're telling me that I need a new ABS Module. I'm currently on a business trip to Texas, so I'm checking to see if I could buy it and take it home on Saturday. However, the part # the Korean dealership provided 3B0 927 156 AH doesn't match the SKU# I'm seeing on the online parts stores. Can you shed some light on this? I have 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T.

    Thank you.

    Navy Guy
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Google "Passat ETKA" for an online parts list. Maybe they have different parts for different models and or years. Don't have the time right now to look, will try to look later.

    You could get the unit repaired here in the states, but that probably doesn't do you much good in your circumstances.
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Thank you for the info.

    Navy Guy
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Okay, this is starting to make more sense. That number is not an ABS Module (which is located under the hood). It's the control unit for the automatic transmission for a AWM 1.8T with front wheel drive. That control module is located under the carpet in one of the front footwells. I'm guessing that they couldn't dry it our and salvage it.

    ETKA says this is for >> 3B-3-600 000. I don't know if that's a serial number from the VIN. It looks like that module is for a certain series of Passats. I don't know if it is the correct one for your car, though. Hope this helps!
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Altair4,
    Thank you so much. I've finally found the part on a website strictly using the part #, and it costs $1200. Wow!

    Thanks again.

    Navy Guy
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    www.1stvwparts.com has it for $1,096.68. worldimpex.com has it for $1,124.80.

    Maybe try for a salvage part, before you head back to Korea?

    BTW, thanks for your service in the military!
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Altair4,
    Thank you for the info. I've had previously ordered from 1stvwparts, but my government computer wouldn't let me access the site due to invalid certificate. I've just called their toll free number and ordered. I had hoped to buy at one of the dealers, even if it cost little bit more, but nobody had it in their stock.

    Thank you for your encouraging words regarding my military service. I'm proud to be an American representing my country overseas. While I feel a bit uneasy with North Korean rhetorics sometimes, it's nothing compared to the hardships that our men and women face in Iraq and Afghanistan.

    Thank you again for your advice.

    Navy Guy
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Sounds like you are on the way to getting this solved, albeit at a pretty good amount of coin. Good luck with the new part and your time in S. Korea.
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Altair4,
    Thank you again for your insight and advice. Hope the car will stay together for a bit.

    Take care.
    Navy Guy
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Might be a sensor only although that is still an expensive proposition. And there could be 2 of these for emissions; left bank and right bank. At $200 per plus labour its an expensive deal. this is just one of the very many reasons my 2000 Passat has a for sale sign on it. Good luck.
  • srn3srn3 Member Posts: 20
    Hi,

    I just went for an oil change and the dealer told me my rear brakes (both pads and rotors!!) need to be changed. I found this very unusual given that the car has only 29,000 miles. The dealer was like rear brakes tend to wear out much faster than front brakes on VWs. The dealer quoted a price of $415 :cry: Couple questions -

    1. Do rear brakes really wear out at 29,000 miles?
    2. Do I really need to change both pads and rotors? I would think that changing pads only would be fine.
    3. Isn't $415 a lot? Does this sound right?
    4. Is it usual for rear brakes to wear out before front brakes? I always thought front brakes tend to bear most of the braking load and would thus wear out much faster.

    I am hoping someone can help me with my questions.

    Thanks a lot and any insights are much appreciated!

    SN
  • chuckhansonchuckhanson Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2005 VW Passat TDI Wagon. It has 95,000 miles with the original brakes. They were checked at 90,000 miles and the VW dealer said they still had a lot of life left. I got 75,000 miles out of the first set of tires.

    The only maintenance I have had is to replace the brake light switch, which was a recall, replace the CV boots and replace the timing belt. It has been a really good car.

    My wife has an Audi A6, which is almost the same car. She got 18,000 miles on the first set of brakes. It cost about $400 to have them replaced. They had to replace one rotor. It goes through tires every 30,000 miles.

    I like the VW the best.

    Chuck Hanson
  • jpmnovajpmnova Member Posts: 15
    I have an '01 Passat 1.8T. I was told at 85K by my local mechanic that my rear brakes were low. He changed rear pads only (about $100) and the car has been fine. Now has 133K (mostly highway) on it and this is the only brake work I have had done. You may want to give it a try.
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Your brake pads and rotors should last quite a long time unless you drive with one foot on the brake. Sounds like the pads werevery poor quality or you might want to get another opinion. In any event I believe something is wrong. I just sold a Nissan truck with 160,000 Miles and it still had original brakes. Of course, it was manual shift which saves brake pads and rotors. We have a Golf with about 160,000 miles and it still has originals on back. Again, it is manual shift.
    I'd be thumping someones desk at VW if I had this problem. good luck,
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Although I'm replying to Navy Guy's inquiry, I'm addressing this primarily to altair4 and shipo, as they seem to have good replies to virtually every question. I have had my 2002 Passat (1.8T w/ auto tranny) stored next to my garage for several months until I sell another vehicle. Last week I needed to move it to get a trailer out of my yard. Although the battery was quite low, it did start. I was able to shift into "Drive", but to my dismay, the rear wheels were completely locked up. Would this be related to the"interlock" that Navy Guy refers to? If yes, how in the heck do I get it disengaged? Thanks! vwdawg.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I've never had the problem, but I'll throw out this WAG: if the parking brake was on, it may simply be rust-seized in place. I don't have any good advice on the cure, but it sounds like you'll need to jack up the car and check the brakes visually to see what's goin' on.

    If you could get the transmission out "Park" and into "Drive", then it's not the interlock.
  • mindymoore1mindymoore1 Member Posts: 1
    I need insight on how a timing belt problem should be handled by a shop. I have a 2001 Passat that was taken in and found to be in need of a new timing belt and water pump. The initial estimate made (which indicates an hour of troubleshooting) no mention of valve trouble. The car stayed at the shop for about two weeks awaiting parts. While the guys were moving the car to replace the belt, the belt slips, the car stops and now I'm looking at a valve job- thousands.

    The questions are-
    when you have a bad timing belt, would you normally check out the valve to be sure there is no damage there?
    If there is a bad timing belt, should they be driving the car?
    If the car drove fine when it went in (there was some noise, which the mechanic specifically told my husband was not valve knocking), how to handle a major prob that occurred at the shop?

    All feedback would be appreciated!
    Thanks,
    Mindy
  • arriazagtarriazagt Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 GLX 1.8T 4MOTION (4 cylinder) Tiptronic Passat with 92K miles on it. Original owner and paid for. Dealer says I need a new transmission and tiptronic switch as well as a timing belt kit. Dealer says he can get a used transmission in for $2,000, tiptronic switch $470 and timing belt $900- Plus Labor it's about $5055 with tax!. My guess is trade-in is $500 before repairs, maybe $6,000 after repairs. Car does not qualify for the Cash for Clunkers program. I am going to put the $5000 into an Acura and donate this one. Thought I would share my first and last experience with a BAD DEAL VW. Never again. :sick:
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    I hear about Tiptronic transmission going bad.
    Timing belt is 900 including labour in my area.

    Krzys
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Good idea. I have my junk pile up for sale also. I remember the days when Bosch electrical and German engineering were the very best. Now neither is acceptable. Mercedes Benz has had its share of major problems also in past few years. There will be no more VW's or MB's in my driveway. Now that GM is now longer involved in Saab I was thinking about one however I need to wait until I know what will happen with that company.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I got a chuckle out of your post concerning Bosch electricals. Having owned VWs manufactured in three different decades, I never, NEVER, had that thought cross my mind. The exact opposite was often true where I thought, "Ya know, this car would be great if it weren't for the dang electrical problems!" True in the 1970's, 1980's and 2000's, at least from my perspective.

    I tolerate it because my Passat wagon was the only car available at its price point with the combination of safety, fuel efficiency, space, and style when I bought it in 2002. As I look at the marketplace now, I see the Jetta wagon being the only real consideration for me.
  • vwenthuvwenthu Member Posts: 36
    According to the user manual, the 08 model need service every 10K miles. I take my car for service to the dealer and my dealer suggests service every 5K miles and sets the trip computer to 5K service interval. Is everyone else (2006-current VW owners) doing service at every 5K miles?It sucks because the carefree maintenance is not available on the 08 models and its not fun servicing every 5K miles....please advise.
  • frank_cfrank_c Member Posts: 19
    Apologies if discussed before (probably...).

    I have a '05 GLX 4motion with the V6 2.8l engine. Low mileage car, I just hit 25,000 miles.

    Recent oil change: I opted for synthetic, 5W40 (euro) at Jiffy Lube. I know this is not VW spec - but is this going to be an issue? Location is California so low temperature is not an issue.

    Thanks,
    Frank
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    I have you beaten. My first VW was a '57. Then Several others including a Fastback and Rabbit. Now we have a '98 Golf which has given it's share of electrical problems and the Pissat which buying was a monumental blunder for me. 9 total but these 2 are electrical problems on wheels. When they are gone that will be the last.
    Price point may be a consideration for buying but when the repairs start the price point quickly becomes moot.
    Good luck to you with your beast.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    I too have had my share of VW's starting with a new 1959 Beetle ending with a 1971 Superbeetle, a yellow car that we called "Herman the German". It was the best of the bunch and is probably still running.

    I am amazed at the variety of electrical and mechanical issues on this Passat Forum! (my first visit)

    I have been looking at the 06' Jetta TDI's and thought perhaps the Passat would be just as good or better, but found they stopped making the TDI Passat in 2005.
    I have also found a much reported weakness in the 2 ltr Passat engines.

    The engine counterbalance shaft run by a little chain off the oil pump that is prone to break. For several thousand dollars it can be converted to a gear drive for better reliability, if you happen to know a VW engine Guru who will do it.

    After reading through the last 10 pages of horror stories on this Forum, I am running not walking from anything to do with a Passat.
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    This is Navy Guy again with my 2003 Passat. The Korean service center actually did me right by only charging me about $320 to solve my water intrusion problem. They installed a more rigid tubing for the sunroof drain and the front windshied drain. Plus, they replaced the rear brake pads ($75 for parts) and engine sensor ($40 for part). Considering that the parts were $115, the labor for everything was only $205.

    Now, I've noticed a different problem. When I slow down from about 25 mph to about 5 mph (typically to go over a speed bump), the transmission shifts very rough when I speed back up. This happens once in about 10 times and typically during hot weather. Do I have a transmission problem? I don't know when transmission fluid was changed out last.

    Additionally, all the discussions about timing belt replacement is getting me worried. I have 42,000 miles on the car, but it's been pretty much all city stop and go traffic in Seoul, Korea. Should I change the timing belt in order to put my mind at peace?

    Thanks in advance.

    Navy Guy
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Navy Guy -

    Maybe I'm bringing you bad news, but the transmission control module is also located under the carpet, in the front footwell (I think on the left side, but don't quote me on that). Your transmission shift problem might be related to your water intrustion problem.
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Dear Altair4,
    I've replaced the transmission control module. I had it ordered from 1stVWparts.com for $1100 and provide it to the Korean VW service center. The $205 labor cost also includes that module replacement.

    I don't know if the new module takes some time to get used to. . . or build my driving habit history or something?

    What do you think about the timing belt replacement?

    Navy Guy
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    VW did not post time requirement for its change, unluckily.
    I know one car (I think 2000) that had 80K miles (so theoretically below 105K limit) and its belt broke.

    I think that you should consider a change next year but could you ask service center to inspect it?

    Krzys
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Krzys,
    Thank you for your thoughts. I'll ask them to inspect the timing belt next time I take the car in.
    Is there any way I can check the transmission fluid level? I was told that the transmission fluid was suppose to last the lifetime of the car, but in light of slight quirks with the transmission shifting roughtly I don't know if I should get the transmission fluid changed out.

    Navy Guy
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Krzyss's advice is good, I think. I'm in the same spot as you are - 2003 lower mileage vehicle. I think I'm going to look for a deal on the timing belt, water pump, drive belts, and tensioners this fall. I'm at 63,000 miles.

    I've had the belt looked at during inspections, but I still don't trust the dang thing. It's so expensive if you crash the valves with the pistions!

    I've got nothing better to add about your rough shifting. Did it start right after you had the TCM changed? Or was it later? Maybe corrosion on the connections? The level can only be checked from under the car - no dipstick (deleting a dipstick is the stupidest thing I've seen on this car). Do you have any indication of a transmission leak?
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Altair4,
    I don't have any indication of a transmission leak and I think this occurred sporadically prior to the TCM change. I've noticed that the rough shift occurs when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 1st while traveling less than 5 mph. Normally, the car stays in 2nd gear even at slow speed and the subsequent acceleration is very smooth because no gear shift occurs until upshift to 3rd gear. When the car has to go uphill or go over a speed bump, the speed slow down sufficient level that the transmission has to shift down to 1st gear. Additionally, when I come to sudden stop (like when you see a ball bounce in front of the car), I've noticed that the transmission down shift to 1st gear with an audible sound.

    Navy Guy
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    mindymoore1: I'm not aware that anyone has responded to your inquiry, but I have some thoughts for you. Unfortunately, no good news here. You did not indicate how many miles you have on your '01, but I believe the factory spec indicates that the timing belt should be changed by 90,000. If you delve more deeply into the Passat forums, you'll see occasional owner reports that a belt broke at 80,000 or even 70,000 miles. Many owners change their belts well in advance of the 90,000 spec, especially considering the obscene consequences of a broken belt.

    With regard to the "shop", here's some thoughts: 1) The "valve": What you are referring to is the "valveS" (two to five per cylinder). Your valves were probably just fine, and they're not normally checked before a belt is replaced. Unfortunately, when the belt "slipped" (more likely, broke), the valves likely hit the tops of the pistons and are bent or broken. 2) It IS a bad idea to drive a vehicle with a bad TB, but it would not be irresponsible for the technician to start the car in order to drive it into the shop. I am wondering if the extended time that the car was parked resulted in all of the oil draining out of the engine; with reduced lubrication, perhaps that additional bit of friction caused the TB to break. Of course, it could also just be that one-in-a-million coincidence that the belt would break at the exact time that the car was being driven into the shop. 3) I don't see that the shop would have any negligence in this matter...I don't see that they did anything that would cause the damages. My guess is that the belt change was either overdue, OR if not, this was one of those freaky, premature failures. While Audis and VWs are very attractive cars and fun to drive, they are prone to various catastrophes if maintenance items are left unchecked. Not sure you have done the repairs to your car. If yes, and you have the 1.8T engine, be sure to pay attention to the forums on OIL SLUDGING, i.e., use approved SYNTHETIC oil (Mobil1 5W-40, etc.), or you might be in for MORE disturbing events. Good luck! vwdawg
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I just checked the maintenance schedule on VW's website for the 2001 1.8T engine and the only maintenance for the Timing elt is a check at 40,000 and 80,000 miles, but for the timing belt tensioner, they have listed replacement at 40,000 and 80,000 miles. It's the same for the 2.8 V6. There is no actual listed change interval for the belt on their schedule, which goes out to 100,000 miles. But it seems that if the tensioner is being done, you'd have the belt changed then, too. We don't know if any of this stuff was done.

    I know the listed change for the 1.8T for the 2003 MY, the change interval is 105,000 miles. But there's no way I'm going anywhere near that distance. Bummer with the belt breaking when they pulled it in.
  • carol39carol39 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 VW wagon GLX with about 66,000 miles on it. Right now the side marker lights are not working and my radio keeps losing the memory stations. The message center threw a "stop immediately" message but nothing was wrong a few weeks ago. Within the last 12-24 months I did find water in the glove box, but no- where else.
    The car was in the shop all day (non VW dealer) and they say it is an electrical problem but they cannot find it. The car won't pass inspection as it stands now. Any ideas?
    :cry:
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    Carol,
    I have a 2003 Passat GLS (42,000 miles) with water intrusion problem.
    The guys on this site told me that the front windshield water drain tends to clog and force the excess water to seep into the passenger compartment. During a torrential downpour, I've had water come inside the car and the genius German design has a electronic control module on the floor board of the front passenger side. I don't know if you have a similar problem, but I think you have a moisture caused short somewhere. I've had "stop immediately" accompanied by TRS/ABS/ and other warning lights come on. If you're going to keep the car, I recommend you take it to a dealer, because that what I've did. After about $1500 of repair, my car is completely rehabilitated. I'm just hoping that there will be no additional issues in the future.
  • aengleaengle Member Posts: 1
    I have attempted it 3 times and I still can't figure it out. Have you figured it out yet? I would love any help if you have any info.
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Does your car have the separate signal light fixture? IF so, you will likely have to remove that first. I had the same problem and once I removed the signal light the head light came out easily enough. There are a number of disconnects to make, though so you will want to take your time. These cars are pigs to work on.
  • myfive3873myfive3873 Member Posts: 1
    I'm considering a purchase of a 1999 Passat V6 GLS.
    The car is in superb condition with 138,500 miles on it.
    This will be a first car for a 17 year old daughter.
    Owner is asking $3,500. Am I ok with the amount of miles?
    What kind of milage can I expect with a VW?

    Thanks
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Before making that purchase I'd check for the following items:
    When was timing belt changed?
    Were any seals replaced and when?
    Were oil changes made as scheduled and was synthetic oil used?
    Check for water damage ( see other posts).
    Check tie rods and boots. There are a half-dozen each side.
    I would hate to rain on her parade but you are buying trouble. All mechanics I know will NOT recommend this car because of high maintenance costs. Mine is a 2000 and I've spend $3,000 in repairs this year. It's for sale and I'm driving my motorhome because I can't trust this lemon to be trouble free until it's sold.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole myself. Miles are too high, car is too expensive for a 17 year old to maintain, and the Passat of that era does not enjoy a very good reputation.

    If you like Passats, (and there's lots to like) you're going to have to invest in a much newer one with a lot fewer miles for any reasonable chance of a happy ending.

    My opinion (that is, my two cents) is an unqualified NO on this particular year/miles/engine.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    You call 9 year old car a lemon? It is quite old if you ask me.

    Krzys
  • realtime15realtime15 Member Posts: 3
    OK so I've read that this is a common problem: The top of the dipstick tube (orange plastic piece) apparently broke when I had the oil changed today. It was not that way when I took it in. I found what I believe is the top-most piece laying in the engine compartment (stuck on hoses under the oild filter) but there is no sign of the rest of the plastic pieces leading me to be concerend some may have fallen into the tube. I have read very different comments about the ultimate meaning of this (if the plastic did actually go into the engine). One poster suggests its no big deal as the pieces will get stuck in the pump screen and not block the flow of oil whereas several posts suggest this is a major concern and the pan should be dropped ASAP. I plan to go back to the shop tomorrow but in the mean time - WHATS THE REAL-DEAL HERE??? Should I be concerned or?? :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Okay; I'll change the word from lemon to junk. A quality car should never give these problems I and others have had. I've had Nissans, Toyotas, and Honda well beyond 10 years with no problems. Sold a Honda last year that was 19 years old. Body rust but no other issues and over 300,000km. Sold Nissan truck with 240.000 and still had original exhaust and rear brakes. Not one issue in 10 years. I usually have 3-4 vehicles at same time, buy them new or nearly new and keep them a long time. While they are reliable I keep them Once I lose faith they go. Wife likes driving Passat but I have to maintain it. It's history and I'm going back to Saab or Nissan asap.
  • brilligbrillig Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2008 Passat Wagen, 2.0 T, and am thinking of doing my own oil changes again. Everything online says the oil filter is underneath, but I've got this item that sure looks like an oil filter right on top in front of the oil dipstick. And it doesn't look like a canister type either, but the regular type. There are pictures in the owner's manual showing where things are, and this thing is not in those pictures. Did the filter get moved after my manual was printed? Or is this some other kind of filter? I don't want to take things apart until I know what I'm taking apart! PS I called a dealer and was told they moved the filter but I'm not sure I believe him ...
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    You may be able to get a set of full schematics for the Passat at ETKA which is the official site for VW. sorry I can't give you a direct link. But I'll try to find one this evening and send it if I find it.
    I can't imagine any manufacturer placing an oil filter anyywhere but where the oil will drain into a receiver. But, hey, it's the latest in German engineering. It could be anywhere.
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    try to Google ETKA PASSAT and it might get you to the site for the car. Another poster was kind enough to give me this information in February 2009 and I saved the full set on my computer. I keep a set in my car for when something breaks and I can call around for parts. I have used it a few times.
  • denhamleedenhamlee Member Posts: 1
    Just got a 2005 Passat Turbo. 62,000 miles. I'm looking into getting repair insurance; Easy Care, A-ARP, Warranty Direct, Mogi, etc..... What kind of issues can i expect in the next few years? Should I get a more extensive program or just a basic one? Currently the car runs great. I just don't want to be putting money into a black hole with repairs. thanks
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi brillig: I am inclined to agree with camperman...I would be surprised if the item near the dipstick would be the filter, but I suppose anything's possible with VW. I'm not a big fan of dealerships either, so I would try to locate a good independent VW/Audi specialty shop near you. Stop by with your car and just ask them what that object is. If they're helpful, it would be a good indication that they might be a good shop to work with in the future. Another solution would be to jack up your Passat (use jackstands, of course), and unscrew and remove the splashguard from underneath the engine. Inspect, and you might find the ACTUAL oil filter there. Since you are planning to do your own changes anyway, have the replacement filter and new oil at hand, and complete the change. I would assume you're aware of this, but under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you use ANYTHING BUT VW-APPROVED SYNTHETIC OIL, e.g., Mobil 1 5W-40, and KEEP ALL OF YOUR RECEIPTS in case you end up with any sludging problems. Let us know where you find the actual filter, and good luck. vwdawg
Sign In or Register to comment.