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Comments
Thank you for your keen insight. I have no access to normal equipment and such, so I've had the car towed to a VW service center. I'm leaving it there for them to completely dry out the car and try to salvage the electronic components. I don't know how much it will cost me, but they looked like they've done this before. I just hope the electronic components are not permanently damanged and can be dried out.
Thanks to you and Krzys, I felt relieved to know the cause of this bizarre problem. Now the only stress remaining is the pricetag of the repair.
Thanks again.
Navy Guy
I think the Korean VW dealership addressed the water intrusion sources, including the drain under the battery and the sunroof hoses. Now, they're telling me that I need a new ABS Module. I'm currently on a business trip to Texas, so I'm checking to see if I could buy it and take it home on Saturday. However, the part # the Korean dealership provided 3B0 927 156 AH doesn't match the SKU# I'm seeing on the online parts stores. Can you shed some light on this? I have 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T.
Thank you.
Navy Guy
You could get the unit repaired here in the states, but that probably doesn't do you much good in your circumstances.
Navy Guy
ETKA says this is for >> 3B-3-600 000. I don't know if that's a serial number from the VIN. It looks like that module is for a certain series of Passats. I don't know if it is the correct one for your car, though. Hope this helps!
Thank you so much. I've finally found the part on a website strictly using the part #, and it costs $1200. Wow!
Thanks again.
Navy Guy
Maybe try for a salvage part, before you head back to Korea?
BTW, thanks for your service in the military!
Thank you for the info. I've had previously ordered from 1stvwparts, but my government computer wouldn't let me access the site due to invalid certificate. I've just called their toll free number and ordered. I had hoped to buy at one of the dealers, even if it cost little bit more, but nobody had it in their stock.
Thank you for your encouraging words regarding my military service. I'm proud to be an American representing my country overseas. While I feel a bit uneasy with North Korean rhetorics sometimes, it's nothing compared to the hardships that our men and women face in Iraq and Afghanistan.
Thank you again for your advice.
Navy Guy
Thank you again for your insight and advice. Hope the car will stay together for a bit.
Take care.
Navy Guy
I just went for an oil change and the dealer told me my rear brakes (both pads and rotors!!) need to be changed. I found this very unusual given that the car has only 29,000 miles. The dealer was like rear brakes tend to wear out much faster than front brakes on VWs. The dealer quoted a price of $415 Couple questions -
1. Do rear brakes really wear out at 29,000 miles?
2. Do I really need to change both pads and rotors? I would think that changing pads only would be fine.
3. Isn't $415 a lot? Does this sound right?
4. Is it usual for rear brakes to wear out before front brakes? I always thought front brakes tend to bear most of the braking load and would thus wear out much faster.
I am hoping someone can help me with my questions.
Thanks a lot and any insights are much appreciated!
SN
The only maintenance I have had is to replace the brake light switch, which was a recall, replace the CV boots and replace the timing belt. It has been a really good car.
My wife has an Audi A6, which is almost the same car. She got 18,000 miles on the first set of brakes. It cost about $400 to have them replaced. They had to replace one rotor. It goes through tires every 30,000 miles.
I like the VW the best.
Chuck Hanson
I'd be thumping someones desk at VW if I had this problem. good luck,
If you could get the transmission out "Park" and into "Drive", then it's not the interlock.
The questions are-
when you have a bad timing belt, would you normally check out the valve to be sure there is no damage there?
If there is a bad timing belt, should they be driving the car?
If the car drove fine when it went in (there was some noise, which the mechanic specifically told my husband was not valve knocking), how to handle a major prob that occurred at the shop?
All feedback would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Mindy
Timing belt is 900 including labour in my area.
Krzys
I tolerate it because my Passat wagon was the only car available at its price point with the combination of safety, fuel efficiency, space, and style when I bought it in 2002. As I look at the marketplace now, I see the Jetta wagon being the only real consideration for me.
I have a '05 GLX 4motion with the V6 2.8l engine. Low mileage car, I just hit 25,000 miles.
Recent oil change: I opted for synthetic, 5W40 (euro) at Jiffy Lube. I know this is not VW spec - but is this going to be an issue? Location is California so low temperature is not an issue.
Thanks,
Frank
Price point may be a consideration for buying but when the repairs start the price point quickly becomes moot.
Good luck to you with your beast.
I am amazed at the variety of electrical and mechanical issues on this Passat Forum! (my first visit)
I have been looking at the 06' Jetta TDI's and thought perhaps the Passat would be just as good or better, but found they stopped making the TDI Passat in 2005.
I have also found a much reported weakness in the 2 ltr Passat engines.
The engine counterbalance shaft run by a little chain off the oil pump that is prone to break. For several thousand dollars it can be converted to a gear drive for better reliability, if you happen to know a VW engine Guru who will do it.
After reading through the last 10 pages of horror stories on this Forum, I am running not walking from anything to do with a Passat.
Now, I've noticed a different problem. When I slow down from about 25 mph to about 5 mph (typically to go over a speed bump), the transmission shifts very rough when I speed back up. This happens once in about 10 times and typically during hot weather. Do I have a transmission problem? I don't know when transmission fluid was changed out last.
Additionally, all the discussions about timing belt replacement is getting me worried. I have 42,000 miles on the car, but it's been pretty much all city stop and go traffic in Seoul, Korea. Should I change the timing belt in order to put my mind at peace?
Thanks in advance.
Navy Guy
Maybe I'm bringing you bad news, but the transmission control module is also located under the carpet, in the front footwell (I think on the left side, but don't quote me on that). Your transmission shift problem might be related to your water intrustion problem.
I've replaced the transmission control module. I had it ordered from 1stVWparts.com for $1100 and provide it to the Korean VW service center. The $205 labor cost also includes that module replacement.
I don't know if the new module takes some time to get used to. . . or build my driving habit history or something?
What do you think about the timing belt replacement?
Navy Guy
I know one car (I think 2000) that had 80K miles (so theoretically below 105K limit) and its belt broke.
I think that you should consider a change next year but could you ask service center to inspect it?
Krzys
Thank you for your thoughts. I'll ask them to inspect the timing belt next time I take the car in.
Is there any way I can check the transmission fluid level? I was told that the transmission fluid was suppose to last the lifetime of the car, but in light of slight quirks with the transmission shifting roughtly I don't know if I should get the transmission fluid changed out.
Navy Guy
I've had the belt looked at during inspections, but I still don't trust the dang thing. It's so expensive if you crash the valves with the pistions!
I've got nothing better to add about your rough shifting. Did it start right after you had the TCM changed? Or was it later? Maybe corrosion on the connections? The level can only be checked from under the car - no dipstick (deleting a dipstick is the stupidest thing I've seen on this car). Do you have any indication of a transmission leak?
I don't have any indication of a transmission leak and I think this occurred sporadically prior to the TCM change. I've noticed that the rough shift occurs when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 1st while traveling less than 5 mph. Normally, the car stays in 2nd gear even at slow speed and the subsequent acceleration is very smooth because no gear shift occurs until upshift to 3rd gear. When the car has to go uphill or go over a speed bump, the speed slow down sufficient level that the transmission has to shift down to 1st gear. Additionally, when I come to sudden stop (like when you see a ball bounce in front of the car), I've noticed that the transmission down shift to 1st gear with an audible sound.
Navy Guy
With regard to the "shop", here's some thoughts: 1) The "valve": What you are referring to is the "valveS" (two to five per cylinder). Your valves were probably just fine, and they're not normally checked before a belt is replaced. Unfortunately, when the belt "slipped" (more likely, broke), the valves likely hit the tops of the pistons and are bent or broken. 2) It IS a bad idea to drive a vehicle with a bad TB, but it would not be irresponsible for the technician to start the car in order to drive it into the shop. I am wondering if the extended time that the car was parked resulted in all of the oil draining out of the engine; with reduced lubrication, perhaps that additional bit of friction caused the TB to break. Of course, it could also just be that one-in-a-million coincidence that the belt would break at the exact time that the car was being driven into the shop. 3) I don't see that the shop would have any negligence in this matter...I don't see that they did anything that would cause the damages. My guess is that the belt change was either overdue, OR if not, this was one of those freaky, premature failures. While Audis and VWs are very attractive cars and fun to drive, they are prone to various catastrophes if maintenance items are left unchecked. Not sure you have done the repairs to your car. If yes, and you have the 1.8T engine, be sure to pay attention to the forums on OIL SLUDGING, i.e., use approved SYNTHETIC oil (Mobil1 5W-40, etc.), or you might be in for MORE disturbing events. Good luck! vwdawg
I know the listed change for the 1.8T for the 2003 MY, the change interval is 105,000 miles. But there's no way I'm going anywhere near that distance. Bummer with the belt breaking when they pulled it in.
The car was in the shop all day (non VW dealer) and they say it is an electrical problem but they cannot find it. The car won't pass inspection as it stands now. Any ideas?
I have a 2003 Passat GLS (42,000 miles) with water intrusion problem.
The guys on this site told me that the front windshield water drain tends to clog and force the excess water to seep into the passenger compartment. During a torrential downpour, I've had water come inside the car and the genius German design has a electronic control module on the floor board of the front passenger side. I don't know if you have a similar problem, but I think you have a moisture caused short somewhere. I've had "stop immediately" accompanied by TRS/ABS/ and other warning lights come on. If you're going to keep the car, I recommend you take it to a dealer, because that what I've did. After about $1500 of repair, my car is completely rehabilitated. I'm just hoping that there will be no additional issues in the future.
The car is in superb condition with 138,500 miles on it.
This will be a first car for a 17 year old daughter.
Owner is asking $3,500. Am I ok with the amount of miles?
What kind of milage can I expect with a VW?
Thanks
When was timing belt changed?
Were any seals replaced and when?
Were oil changes made as scheduled and was synthetic oil used?
Check for water damage ( see other posts).
Check tie rods and boots. There are a half-dozen each side.
I would hate to rain on her parade but you are buying trouble. All mechanics I know will NOT recommend this car because of high maintenance costs. Mine is a 2000 and I've spend $3,000 in repairs this year. It's for sale and I'm driving my motorhome because I can't trust this lemon to be trouble free until it's sold.
If you like Passats, (and there's lots to like) you're going to have to invest in a much newer one with a lot fewer miles for any reasonable chance of a happy ending.
My opinion (that is, my two cents) is an unqualified NO on this particular year/miles/engine.
Krzys
I can't imagine any manufacturer placing an oil filter anyywhere but where the oil will drain into a receiver. But, hey, it's the latest in German engineering. It could be anywhere.