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Comments
You should expect a *few* issues with any used car, like needing brakes perhaps, or a small oil leak here and there which might not be of any consequence (there are LEAKS and then there are WEEPS...big difference).
So sure, any used car might need $500 in spiffing up, but that laundry list you posted is deplorable. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I"ll put you in touch with my friends or direct you to their craigslist ad. Of course, I'd recommend you have THEIR car inspected as well. Good luck and yes, you make the right move for many reasons.
My search continues...
If you've never had a VW before, be prepared to shell out some maintenance every month to keep it running. I've probably spent a couple hundred a month in maintenance since passing the 120K mark but my car now has over 207K on it and it still runs like new and is fun to drive. Good luck with your search
-Steve
1. front brake pads 5 mm, rear brake pads 8mm Wear items.
2. engine leaking oil from valve cover and cam seal ($580) Not uncommon on Passats, both engines.
3. oil cooler leaking oil into coolant ($617) Can happen - price sounds high.
4. hood strut broken ($130) I had this problem - $25 at auto parts store and 5 minutes to DIY.
5. transmission oil pan leaking ($290) No idea.
6. lower engine cover missing ($360)
7. right front under liner broken ($130)
8. coolant flush coolant dirty ($160) I had this done at the dealer last year - $90.
9. coolant reservoir contaminated ($180) Buy the part online for $35 at 1st VW Parts.
10. timing belt has cracks (1,250) Probable dealer pricing. An independent garage could save you substantially here.
11. battery not holding charge ($250) New Battery at Advance Auto - $170. DIY installation.
12. air bag system has faults and transmission has electrical faults No idea. SOunds expensive to diagnose.
All in all, you should walk away, but the prices you got for repairing the issues seem high. But that could be dependent on where you are in the country. At just over 90,000 miles, my maintenance costs are running at about $0.08 per mile on my 2003 Passat wagon with the 1.8T. This includes maintenance and repairs, including tires. Doesn't include oil changes, which run me about $0.01 per mile (using Mobil 1 0w-40 Sythetic and a VW filter. I bring the oil, and they do the change and my sludge warranty remains intact without question. So, call it $0.09 per mile or $8,100 over the last 8.5 years. And I haven't done the timing belt change yet.
These aren't cheap cars to own and maintain. They are safe and drive nicely, though.
Good luck.
Navy Guy
I guess I'm being stubborn as far as the car, because I've just spent over $2500 on a car which has less than 49K miles and therefore I'd keep the car for a while. I have a teenager daughter who will be driving soon and figured at least I know the full repair history of this one.
Thanks again for your advices.
Sincerely,
Navy Guy
Has anybody had experience with the 12 year rust warranty? Will they repair the damage now, or does it need to "perforate" first; which gives me 5 more years to wait and see?? My experience with VW dealers has been bad (I have used 4 different dealers to resolve warranty and recall issues, each closing shop and leaving me to find another dealer and get to know another set of service people).
it's worth a shot though. Keep a record of your visit and your complaint.
Thanks for your help! vwdawg
I've experienced the same thing with my 2003 Passat GLS. I've purchased two used VW keys on e-bay and followed the instructions to the T. When I went to the VW dealership to get the metal key portions cut, they told me that the immobilizer had to be programmed to accept the keys. I didn't listen and tried to start the car and experienced the same thing you're talking about. Apparently there's a micro chip imbedded inside the key remote which is sensed by the car immobilizer when within 1-2 inches from ignition box, therefore making it very difficult to steal the car.
Unfortunately for me, my two keys were not accepted by the car immobilizer and I initially ended up being out $210 ($60 for the two keys and $129 for programming on the immobilizer). I haggled with the dealership and they ended up selling me a brand new replacement key (which has improved key buttons for better durability) without charging me the $129 programming for the second time. Now, I'm out total of $385 ($60 for the two keys and $325 for a brand new key with programming). I've thought about sending the two remotes back to the e-bay vendor, but thought better of it as I didn't want somebody else with remotes to my car.
Hope my painful experience is of assistance to you.
Take care.
Navy Guy
Thanks,
Chuck Hanson
http://www.ehow.com/how_6139077_program-switchblade-key-volkswagen-passat.html
If this does not work, double check that the new battery is good and inserted correctly.
Good luck.
There are some things that you should buy at a dealer and some where it doesn't pay (unless convenience is worth it or where there's some knowledge of the part involved, so that you get the right one).
If you can find a small shop that specializes in VW, you will be better off than with the dealers. I have worked with 4 dealers for recalls, etc., and that is because the first 3 closed up and left me finding a new dealer to perform warranty work. For regular maint, I go to a shop full of VW lovers (and mostly mechanics who gave up on the dealers!). The guy who runs the shop (Brian) told me "never" let anyone touch the tranny. It is a lifetime part that will work as long as my TDi engine will run (and both of those will outlast the body and frame being attacked each winter with road salt!).
The VWs are picky and expensive to maintain, but that is the price for superior engineering and ride.
Ed
Any ideas what could cause this? Is it safe to keep driving long distance to see if it happens again?
I was very disappointed that the timing belt failed on the original engine at 83K miles. The recommended maintenance interval on the belt is 105K miles. I was considering replacing it early when it failed killing the engine. :mad:
My questions:
Do I have any recourse with VW since the timing belt failed so early?
Should (or is) there a time limit on the timing belt replacement?
Rob
Replaced at 95K. Car has 153K and still running.
Krzys
When you do TB ask to be shown how it looks like in the middle of the process. You will understand why it costs so much.
The whole front of the car is removed to get access. It is not so nice feature of North-South (aka longitiudal) engine placement and VW implementation.
Krzys
the old flathead I6's and V8's. However, do some research on the maintenance schedules for the Passat's competitors. For example, the maintenance schedule for the Sonata recommends TB inspection at 60K and every 15K thereafter. Does that mean that Sonata owners are driving on borrowed time before disaster strikes after 60K? No, it means that modern engines need to be periodically inspected and maintained to prevent disaster. Remember way back when we had to change the oil every 3K and get lube jobs on the old cars to prevent problems?