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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Way too much money. My friends who are original owners of their Passat wagon are selling a 2004, clean machine, never any problems for them, for $5900 asking price.

    You should expect a *few* issues with any used car, like needing brakes perhaps, or a small oil leak here and there which might not be of any consequence (there are LEAKS and then there are WEEPS...big difference).

    So sure, any used car might need $500 in spiffing up, but that laundry list you posted is deplorable. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I"ll put you in touch with my friends or direct you to their craigslist ad. Of course, I'd recommend you have THEIR car inspected as well. Good luck and yes, you make the right move for many reasons.
  • photodad3855photodad3855 Member Posts: 11
    It's good you ran away. I wonder why everyone says replacing the timing belt is "just maintenance" -- I didn't replace my timing belt (I had about 90,000 miles on my 2003 Passat). It died. The VW dealer gave me estimates of $5-6K to replace the engine. They would only give me a 3-6 month warranty on their work so I ended up selling it to a junk car dealer. Lesson learned. They are money-sucking pits. First and last one for me.
  • bcass1bcass1 Member Posts: 2
    To the three previous posters who responded to my thread, thanks so much for responding and giving me some affirmation about my decision to walk away from the vehicle. My search for Passats will continue, although I'm a bit discouraged at this point. Nevertheless, considering all the potential issues that could come up on this type of vehicle, I think it would be prudent to avoid independent used car dealers, and look for cars being sold by private parties. At least, you're more likely to be presented with service records to help you better ascertain the history of the car. I've also begun looking at Golfs, and have been searching for Jetta wagons too (although they're rare, and even more so when looking for private party cars only). As one of the posters commented, the Golf seems to have a better record of reliability than the Passat.

    My search continues...
  • sdbuehler1sdbuehler1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 1.8T with 4 Motion. I'm one of the lucky few that avoided most of the problems that others have experienced early on. My problems began after 120K. The first thing to go was the ignition coils and apparently this was a recall which VW did reimburse me on. I also had the oil cooler fail around 160K and it is a mess to fix because oil leaks into the coolant and contaminates everything. Another common problem to watch out for is a clogged heater core. Its cost me about $400 to have it flushed out when mine became clogged at 140K. VW recently revised their maintenance schedule to have the moon roof drainage ducts cleaned out every 40K instead of every 80K. I've had mine cleaned every 40K and have never had an issue with a leak but there are several who have had issues with it leaking mostly though because they didn't have it cleaned or maintained.

    If you've never had a VW before, be prepared to shell out some maintenance every month to keep it running. I've probably spent a couple hundred a month in maintenance since passing the 120K mark but my car now has over 207K on it and it still runs like new and is fun to drive. Good luck with your search

    -Steve
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    edited April 2011
    You wrote the following and I added comments:

    1. front brake pads 5 mm, rear brake pads 8mm Wear items.
    2. engine leaking oil from valve cover and cam seal ($580) Not uncommon on Passats, both engines.
    3. oil cooler leaking oil into coolant ($617) Can happen - price sounds high.
    4. hood strut broken ($130) I had this problem - $25 at auto parts store and 5 minutes to DIY.
    5. transmission oil pan leaking ($290) No idea.
    6. lower engine cover missing ($360)
    7. right front under liner broken ($130)
    8. coolant flush coolant dirty ($160) I had this done at the dealer last year - $90.
    9. coolant reservoir contaminated ($180) Buy the part online for $35 at 1st VW Parts.
    10. timing belt has cracks (1,250) Probable dealer pricing. An independent garage could save you substantially here.
    11. battery not holding charge ($250) New Battery at Advance Auto - $170. DIY installation.
    12. air bag system has faults and transmission has electrical faults No idea. SOunds expensive to diagnose.

    All in all, you should walk away, but the prices you got for repairing the issues seem high. But that could be dependent on where you are in the country. At just over 90,000 miles, my maintenance costs are running at about $0.08 per mile on my 2003 Passat wagon with the 1.8T. This includes maintenance and repairs, including tires. Doesn't include oil changes, which run me about $0.01 per mile (using Mobil 1 0w-40 Sythetic and a VW filter. I bring the oil, and they do the change and my sludge warranty remains intact without question. So, call it $0.09 per mile or $8,100 over the last 8.5 years. And I haven't done the timing belt change yet.

    These aren't cheap cars to own and maintain. They are safe and drive nicely, though.
  • photodad3855photodad3855 Member Posts: 11
    Get your timing belt changed NOW. All the money and time you've spent maintaining your car . . . it'd be a shame to overlook it. Don't make the mistake I did. That timing belt was a death sentence for my Passat.
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    I don't think it's a problem with bleeding. For me, I found out accidentally as the coolant level slowly leaked out causing the alarm to go on. Overall, I think I lost over a gallon. The noise was apparently coming from the coolant reserve tank venting as the level came down. I started getting noise after getting the coolant system flushed out and the service shop told me that the water was leaking around the water pump. I've just recently got the timing belt replaced along with the water pump, and got brand new seals. The noise occurred only once or twice, but after that it went away. I believe you have a small leak in the coolant system somewhere causing the bubbling inside the coolant reserve (overflow) tank.

    Good luck.

    Navy Guy
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    VWDawg,
    I guess I'm being stubborn as far as the car, because I've just spent over $2500 on a car which has less than 49K miles and therefore I'd keep the car for a while. I have a teenager daughter who will be driving soon and figured at least I know the full repair history of this one.
    Thanks again for your advices.

    Sincerely,
    Navy Guy
  • steveg64steveg64 Member Posts: 6
    I had a 2002 that I bought new and took really good care of it. Nothing but problems, it was a big money pit. I'd avoid VW if I was you.
  • bjssbjss Member Posts: 51
    I have the same car you were looking at, although 80K miles (bought new). It's a blast to drive, but does require some upkeep. I did the whole timing belt, water pump thing at 65K (didn't want to risk it and plan to keep car for a while). Had valve cover gasket leak, but no issues with transmission, coolant leaks. I recently had to replace the front engine mounts (they were leaking), fuel filter, brake pads (3rd time for front and rear) and CV boots. If you get a VW, buy your parts at Germanautoparts.com. and find a good independent shop to peform the repair. This has saved me big $$$ over dealership. Personally, I would not buy a used VW unless I had all repair/maintenance documentation. Good luck!
  • nagylynnenagylynne Member Posts: 1
    Several people have posted issues reguarding the rattle noise when the car is in idle. When you accelerate the noise goes away. I have been told several things reguarding what it "could" be.... from the serpentene belt, a lifter, the cam shaft, the oil pan and even the hydrolic converter shaft... whatever that is?! So far I have only did an oil change with 5/30 synthethic oil and replaced the serpentene belt. Still have the noise. I just want to know ... Has anyone actually FIXED the problem???? And if so .. PLEASE tell me what it is! Thanks!
  • carson71carson71 Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2011
  • sdbuehler1sdbuehler1 Member Posts: 3
    I had a similar rattle on my 2004 Passat wagon that would happen when I would first start the car up and then it appeared to go away once the car had warmed up or after I had started driving. In my case it was the cam chain tensioner.
  • carson71carson71 Member Posts: 4
    6 MONTHS AGO MY PASSAT (06 2.0 T) STALLS WITH OUT WARNING... Dealership advised it was High and low pressure sensor. Replaced, and car is still stalling out. Found out this time it was a cracked hose that attached to the fuel pump and tank.. The kicker is, I had to have a new fuel pump as well.. NOTHING WRONG WITH THE PUMP, but there are "ears" inside of the pump which help attach the hose (one above).... $1200.00 LATER I thought my car was fixed.... 6 months later, I'm traveling out of town (600 miles from my hometown) and my car stalls out again on interstate.. NOT TO MENTION OF PRETTY MUCH GOT PUSHED OFF THE ROAD BY ANOTHER CAR! My car restarted and I made it to my destination.. I took it to the local VW dealership and they advised it was the "fuel pump/control unit" Fuel PSI sensor, and 3 other things per diagnostic test... They said the pump and sensor were making it stall , but the tech also said he had seen this before, we would probably be ok to drive it back home as long as we kept tank full and of course premium gas in it. Basically a preventive measure for it NOT to stall out. Not a mechanic and followed his suggestion. On the way home, car broke down again, and I decided I would not drive it all the way home. Went to the VW dealership (this is a different one) and they looked at car (diagnostic test) said it was somethint totall different.. Camshaft and high pressure fuel pump making it stall and 7 other issues! SO WHICH PLACE IS RIGHT? I had to leave my car there to have this problem fixed which by the way is covered under the extension of the warranty. Dropped it last wed the 14th and the part is on national back order. They wont have part until 25th of July. I have no choice, but is this really the problem? I have read to many complaints about the same issues i have had... STALLING OUT IS DANGEROUS! SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET KILLED.. OBVIOUSLY THIS IS A SERIOUS PROBLEM WITH THESE CARS. THIS DESERVES MEDIA ATTENTION AND I WILL PURSUE THIS TO THE FULLEST!
  • carson71carson71 Member Posts: 4
    VW IS COVERING THE CAMSHAFT AND HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP UNDER AN EXTENSION OF THE WARRANTY,UP TO 120,000 MILES.. My VW is 2006 passat 2.0 t and it has been stalling out... They claim this is the part that is making it stall.. At current time this part is on "national back order"! Wont have my car fixed until sometime the week of July 25th.. I left it wth dealership July 14th... The part is on back order due to all of the cars having same issue as mine... Doesnt that tell vw there is something majorly wrong with this year of vw? MY CAR WAS FIXED 6 MONTHS PRIOR TO THIS ISSUE , DUE TO STALLING OUT... IT'S STALLING AGAIN BUT IT IS SOMETHING COMPLETLEY DIFF, BUT RELATED TO THE FUEL SYSTEM! I spoke with a case manager with VW and basicallY she said that all of these issues are MY PROBLEM!
  • carson71carson71 Member Posts: 4
    My 06 passat 2.0 t has had minor to a really MAJOR ISSUE! Stalling out with out warning! How is it that each dealership, can come up with completely different diagnostics on your car? I called the VW manufacturer and made a complaint due to all of my problems, major concern being car stalls out in middle of interstate! and the case manager I spoke with said that "Maybe" my car had all of these problems due to it having 105,500 miles on it... Maybe?! So we consumers are paying for "maybe's"... These "maybe's" are hundreds of dollars and its ashame VW cant made more accurate findings... Dont these diagnostic machines cost thousands of dollars and they come up with all of these CODES THAT EQUAL MAYBE! I am one P- - - -D! off consumer and wished I would of never bought this piece of JuNK! I know that there are dozens of people who have bought the 2006 vw passat (2.0t) and have also stallec out with out warning.. I have printed off page after page of complaints and yet VW thinks its ok to keep people in this car... Media attention needed!
  • carita1879carita1879 Member Posts: 1
    Although I feel in love with this car first sight, I have so realized over the 3 years of owning that its a Piece of Junk that I would literally have to find a part time job just to cover dealership cost. The first time it put me down was due to Bad Cam. I took the car over to the VW dealership who before diagnosing my car they decided to call me on my job to inform me that I needed to replace the battery first which would cost a total of $269.00. The service Department said they couldnt go any futher until they do so. I then called my brother law who works at an Audi Dealership who informed me that although the battery may have been weak they would never call a customer and inform them of such until the check has been performed. He told me that of course they have parts around to assist with that. So I was very upset with that, and it became a very escalated situation. I ended up having it out with the service manager who told me that he wasnt sure why the service man called in that manner. By this time I was done with them and sent my mate up to the Service Department to deal with the them. They had my car parked and begin to explained to him the issues with the camshaft and that its wasnt bad but getting there. So they crunk up the car to let him here it. I called the next day and advised them not to service my car that I would have someone pick it up and take to an Independent Import Service Center. So I came the next day to pick it up and the care wouldnt say anything. The service man then turned his head and walked away. So I had to pay 80 to have my car towed.. The next day Camshaft was replaced, high pressure fuel pump, timing belt, and new fluids but the car wouldnt crank. So the service man begin checking for other thangs...Well come to find out the VW Service Center had removed my EPC fuse so the car wouldnt start. Talking about Pissed...Geesh Its one thing to have a piece of junk and not be able to trust the Service Men!! So Im driving down the road 8 months later and the car stalls out...would not crank back up! So I must admit I lOVE MY PIECE OF JUNK SO MUCH I HAVE DECIDED TO GET RID OF IT! I still have a year left to pay ..and cant stand the throught of purchasing a new vehicle right now with Extra Payments!! But its GOTTA GO..
  • breadcrum86breadcrum86 Member Posts: 1
    I recently changed the temp sensor and now there isn't any power to the car. When I first put in the temp sensor the clip popped out and I lost all the coolant, the area around the sensor smoked a bit. Once I replaced the clip the car started up fine, it just isn't getting power? It will drive, just really [non-permissible content removed], and I have to slam down hard on the brakes? Someone said maybe I knocked a hose loose and the engine is pulling air from somewhere it shouldn't? I seriously need some help here!
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    I have a 2005 Passat (bought new 9/21/04), and a large rust bubble has developed right at the top of BOTH front wheel wells. It seems like road salt (NH) has been sitting between the plastic wheel well liner and the metal fender. It is not rock damage as it seems to start on the inside lip and has recently worked through to the outside. Metal is punky and the paint has bubbled (I would not have seem it if the paint had not bubbled in that area).

    Has anybody had experience with the 12 year rust warranty? Will they repair the damage now, or does it need to "perforate" first; which gives me 5 more years to wait and see?? My experience with VW dealers has been bad (I have used 4 different dealers to resolve warranty and recall issues, each closing shop and leaving me to find another dealer and get to know another set of service people).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I suspect perforation will be required and of course they'll probably try the old "environmental damage" trick on you, or owner negligence (didn't was the car enough), etc.

    it's worth a shot though. Keep a record of your visit and your complaint.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi All: I have a 2002 Passat, bought used, and it was supplied with one remote and two separate keys. The remote DOES open/lock doors and opens the trunk, but the "stiletto key" itself does NOT start start the engine (well, it does start the engine for about three seconds, then engine shuts off). Does anyone know the proper procedure for programming the stiletto key so it will start the vehicle? Quite annoying to have to carry BOTH the remote and the separate key on my key ring when the remote key was designed to handle all functions.
    Thanks for your help! vwdawg
  • navyguy1990navyguy1990 Member Posts: 71
    VWDawg,
    I've experienced the same thing with my 2003 Passat GLS. I've purchased two used VW keys on e-bay and followed the instructions to the T. When I went to the VW dealership to get the metal key portions cut, they told me that the immobilizer had to be programmed to accept the keys. I didn't listen and tried to start the car and experienced the same thing you're talking about. Apparently there's a micro chip imbedded inside the key remote which is sensed by the car immobilizer when within 1-2 inches from ignition box, therefore making it very difficult to steal the car.
    Unfortunately for me, my two keys were not accepted by the car immobilizer and I initially ended up being out $210 ($60 for the two keys and $129 for programming on the immobilizer). I haggled with the dealership and they ended up selling me a brand new replacement key (which has improved key buttons for better durability) without charging me the $129 programming for the second time. Now, I'm out total of $385 ($60 for the two keys and $325 for a brand new key with programming). I've thought about sending the two remotes back to the e-bay vendor, but thought better of it as I didn't want somebody else with remotes to my car.
    Hope my painful experience is of assistance to you.

    Take care.
    Navy Guy
  • debhowarddebhoward Member Posts: 1
    I went to the VW dealer today and they told me my intake camshaft and fuel pump were bad. They said nothing about an extended warranty. I did not buy the car from VW. I am the second owner. How do I get a copy of the warranty?
  • chuckhansonchuckhanson Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1995 Passat Wagon diesel. My remote door lock quit working. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors or rear hatch. The locks work ok with the key inserted in the lock. Any ideas what the problem may be. I replaced the battery but that didn't solve the problem.

    Thanks,

    Chuck Hanson
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    You can try programing the remote. Here is a link that explains the procedure.

    http://www.ehow.com/how_6139077_program-switchblade-key-volkswagen-passat.html

    If this does not work, double check that the new battery is good and inserted correctly.

    Good luck.
  • edcharkedchark Member Posts: 5
    Hi to all, I bought this 2003 Passat 1.8T two months ago It's running very well but when I opened the hood to check the transmission fluid I could not find the dipstick. I owned many cars before and everyone I was able to check the fluid . I would be thanksful to any idea as to how to check that. Thanks and I'm glad I found this site. Ed
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's kinda complicated so you'd better let a dealer or repair shop do it. Even if we explain it all and you overfill the transmission that wouldn't be a good thing. Basically there is an overflow plug you check in the trans oil pan and depending on the rate of flow out of it, you pry open a tube in the engine bay (destroying the plastic lock, so you need a new one) and use a special tool to measure the amount you put in . Use of a scan tool is also recommended.
  • edcharkedchark Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your answer but I read on Yahoo Answers someone saying it's a sealed transmission and it's good for life . Is this true?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it's not "sealed" for life as transmissions have to vent, but it is theoretically "filled for life" yes. No oil change necessary.
  • edcharkedchark Member Posts: 5
    Thanks again for the information., But since there is no dipstick to check the fluid how to tell it's time to change the fluid, and the filter etc. Recently I bought from VW dealer a battery for the remote it costs me $9.5 that the same cost at Walmart $3? I miss my 2002 Buick Regal that I kept for 7 years and I never took it to a GM dealer every thing was so visible and simple I don't think German or Japanese cars that I owned before are better specially in our freezing winter .
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No service required unless you have a leak!

    There are some things that you should buy at a dealer and some where it doesn't pay (unless convenience is worth it or where there's some knowledge of the part involved, so that you get the right one).
  • edcharkedchark Member Posts: 5
    This is good news for me since the car is running very well and I took it few days ago to a garage ans it looks in great shape . Many thanks to Mr Shiftright. This is a great site
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Hi Ed,

    If you can find a small shop that specializes in VW, you will be better off than with the dealers. I have worked with 4 dealers for recalls, etc., and that is because the first 3 closed up and left me finding a new dealer to perform warranty work. For regular maint, I go to a shop full of VW lovers (and mostly mechanics who gave up on the dealers!). The guy who runs the shop (Brian) told me "never" let anyone touch the tranny. It is a lifetime part that will work as long as my TDi engine will run (and both of those will outlast the body and frame being attacked each winter with road salt!).

    The VWs are picky and expensive to maintain, but that is the price for superior engineering and ride.
  • edcharkedchark Member Posts: 5
    Thank you so much mrjette, as a matter of fact my mechanic is very experienced and he owns two VW he said to me exactly what you said and I'm so glad because my Passat is fantastic and very dependable even I pay more for gas 91 oct. Thanks again this is a great site . Have a great day
    Ed
  • dotsbobdotsbob Member Posts: 1
    Same problem happened to me today with our 2006 Passat...fuel door won't open and neither will truck using the release buttons in the driver side door...can't find fuse info in owner's manual...any ideas?
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Have you checked fuses? Basic, but if the fuse is blown the release won't work. And the fuse may be the only connection between those two functions.
  • bonusarmybonusarmy Member Posts: 1
    While driving my '99 Passat on the freeway (70 mph) the acceleration cut out for a few seconds - almost like when cruise control stops accelerating (but cruise control was off) - even though I was still pushing the gas pedal. This happened 6 times for a few seconds each time, and then didn't happen again for the last 15 minutes of the trip.
    Any ideas what could cause this? Is it safe to keep driving long distance to see if it happens again?
  • rob_passatrob_passat Member Posts: 13
    I just finished paying $3800 to replace the engine in my 2002 Passat. Perhaps not a wise gamble but the price of used cars in this class drove me to risk it. The used engine is working fine so far with a brand new timing belt, tensioner, etc.

    I was very disappointed that the timing belt failed on the original engine at 83K miles. The recommended maintenance interval on the belt is 105K miles. I was considering replacing it early when it failed killing the engine. :mad:

    My questions:

    Do I have any recourse with VW since the timing belt failed so early?
    Should (or is) there a time limit on the timing belt replacement?

    Rob
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes there is also a time limit on the belt. It varies by manufacturer, but usually 4 to 6 years.
  • photodad3855photodad3855 Member Posts: 11
    I had a 2003 Passat. The timing belt broke and, like yours, destroyed the engine. VW dealer gave me the option of two different engines they had. Prices were $3500 - 5500. I didn't opt for either because they were only going to guarantee the work for 3-6 months. I didn't want to risk that -- sold it to a junk dealer. No more VWs for me -- service is just too expensive. It was my fault -- my manual said the timing belt was to be replaced at 60K miles. I had over 70K miles. Service dept. "recommended" the replacement. It was never a "you better, or else." Still my fault.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    ah, too bad...but sometimes bailing out is the wisest course.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    my 03 1.8T Passat shows any time limit on the timing belt. 105K period.
    Replaced at 95K. Car has 153K and still running.
    Krzys
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello All: If one reviews the long history of forum posts on VW timing belts (many of them quite tragic), it becomes apparent that the 105,000 spec for the belt change represents a major gamble. Similar to the potentially catastrophic issue of not using 502.00 VW-approved synthetic oil in the 1.8T, there are thousands of VW (and Audi) owners driving around with engines ready to blow due to not changing the TB well in advance of the VW spec, or using conventional or non-approved synth oil. Knowing that "blown belt = blown engine", most knowledgeable owners are doing the belt change anywhere from 10-15,000 BEFORE the recommended mileage. It's a wise investment. Happy holidays to all! vwdawg
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    VWDawg. I agree with your post regarding early change of timing belts. What I cannot understand is why anyone would own a car such as the Passat knowing full well that it's only a matter of time before disaster strikes. I had one for several years and worried every day I would be stranded and faced with that problem or many others as it turned out. I got rid of the thing as soon as I could once my problems started. Of all the cars I have owned starting with a Studebaker way back when, the Passat was absolutely the most troubling and worrysome car I ever owned. It spent more time in the garage than on the road and cost more to maintain than other cars. I'll never own another. VW has been building these garbage cans for the past 12 years and people still do not learn.
  • vwgrrrlvwgrrrl Member Posts: 19
    edited December 2011
    I've had my '04 Passat GLS 1.8T for about 62,000 miles now. Yes, the recommended maintenance for the timing belt is 105,000 miles but if you're under in mileage, as I am, the dealer goes by Age instead of mileage and is recommending it be changed now at 7 years old. I read somewhere that it isn't usually the timing belt that goes but rather the parts that make it work like the tensioner and/or roller. But if you're replacing those parts, you replace the timing belt too, of course. They also recommend that you change the water pump and thermostat since these parts are near the timing belt and hard to get to. I'm still driving around with my original timing belt but I've yet to change it because the dealer is a rip off and even the local garage wants an arm and a leg. The dealer hasn't physically looked at the timing belt or the surrounding parts and is merely going by Age. I'm just wondering if I can hang in there for another 10,000-20,000 miles before having to replace the TB or better yet, getting into a new car which is ultimately what I want to do. Any thoughts?
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    I think you are driving on borrowed time.
    When you do TB ask to be shown how it looks like in the middle of the process. You will understand why it costs so much.
    The whole front of the car is removed to get access. It is not so nice feature of North-South (aka longitiudal) engine placement and VW implementation.

    Krzys
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Granted, modern auto engines are more complicated than
    the old flathead I6's and V8's. However, do some research on the maintenance schedules for the Passat's competitors. For example, the maintenance schedule for the Sonata recommends TB inspection at 60K and every 15K thereafter. Does that mean that Sonata owners are driving on borrowed time before disaster strikes after 60K? No, it means that modern engines need to be periodically inspected and maintained to prevent disaster. Remember way back when we had to change the oil every 3K and get lube jobs on the old cars to prevent problems?
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    I am aware of the oil change frequencies and most cars for years have required the 3,000 change. If the only problem I had was oil changes I would have been happy. But my Passat always had multiple problems, expensive problems and as I said before, it was the worst vehicle I had ever owned. The electrical was always failing, the plastics were junk, seals and gaskets were terrible, brakes were garbage, sensors were always going and not cheap and seat covers were falling apart. Before I sold it I had everything fixed and I parked it so that no one could drive it until a buyer came along. I sold it and the new owner dealt with the same mechanic who serviced my other vehicles. I went to see him 2 weeks later and he had the Passat in several days before with 11 new items showing up on monitor, none of which had shown before. My best advice for anyone is to leave the VW's in the showroom.
  • jmigasjmigas Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased the 2006 Passat and had the same problem for the first 2 months. I switched to high octane gas and have not had any more issues.
  • path4path4 Member Posts: 24
    alternator, the thing that gives engine electricity to light up sparks. Many years ago I had the same problem with my 93 honda accord. The problem wouldn't show when I took it to mechanics. Finally an experienced mechanic heard a noise without driving it and immediately identified the problem.
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