Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have found that driving with no dashboard lights or dimmer switch on,helps the car ,and not going so fast,and in the slow lane of the 2-3 lane roads.Its still risky,and i,m not condoning doing it,but in an urgent situation,and a short trip,i have done it,and when it did stall, getting a boost from someone was not difficult:)
Does anyone have any advice on how to drive the car when the iginiton switch is this way?Just incase i missed something .Thanks!
When I took it to the shop they quoted $1200 for OEM and $900 for aftermarket. Prior to this I had to replace the LF wheel bearing and RF tie rod ends. The parts alone for the rack and pinion are $310 if I install myself.
Question is how hard of a job is it to do myself and has anyone else have similar problem and tried the work themselves?
I have the same trouble with my 2000 SE. What was the solution!
John
I,m totally confused
Does any1 have any ideas??
In review:Problems starting car,When it starts it stalls while driving on road,dashboard lights flicker,abs light indicator sometimes always on,power windows slow in working,and other indicator lights come on and off,sometimes staying on.
Almost and tired...
Also lights on steering wheel remote radio controls are out too; but have come on to my surprise one time since they've been out (now over a year as each module is very expensive to replace). Now I have intermittent ABS & Traction Control lights after about 12 miles or so each trip, they go away after engine stop to come back on later approx. 12 miles down road.
And did I mention that cruise control goes away when ABS and Trac lights come on? I really like my GTP and its fun to drive but I’ve got to tell you changing out the spark plugs and wires esp. #’rs 4 & 6 you almost have to be pro, oh and I forgot changing of air filter always S_CKS and same for first time fuel filter change. Maintenance for the do-it-yourselfer is obnoxious.
How did you trouble-shoot back to ABS module? Does anyone know if there is a common connection with ABS, Trac, and cruise control?
We've paid for a new crank position sensor and have had another electrical part replaced but just picked-up the car (for the 3rd time now!) and on the way home it cut-out 4 times (we were able to get it started again at least).
Any advice, help, guidance, suggestions, insights or inspirations are much needed and greatly appreciated!
THANK YOU!!!
From CLUBGP dot COM:
Many people have been left stranded with a car that doesn't run at all or at best idles for a few seconds and then dies. Most of the time it's happened to some unwary GPer sitting at a light... they turn to go, move a few feet and the car dies, or it dies a few seconds after starting. This is the fault of the fuel pump resistor. This offending piece is located (on my '99 at least) under the fender area BEHIND the battery. If one gets the right angle you can just see it by looking into the fender in that area.
How it is done: Well, the fix is that the fuel resistor needs to be replaced, but if one is on the side of the road with a "dead" car, what can be done? Steve Foster of the OQCGP offered this advice:
Here is what you do. Remove the relay in the underhood electrical center by your battery. The relay should be labeled "f/pmp spd cont relay" or something along those lines. It is supposed to read fuel pump speed control.
Take along a paperclip, and short out pins 30 and 87A. to do this, remove the relay, and where those pins were on the fuse-block, put the paperclip in those 2 positions.
If you do not feel comfortable doing that, another option follows.
Remove the same relay as above. Bend over the one lead of the relay labeled 85 or 86. Either one will work. reinsert relay into original position.
This will get you home hopefully until you can fix it properly.
(This article written up with the assistance of Steve Foster of the OQCGP)
I checked the fuel pump by listening when i turn on the ignition.
These are the problems that I have found and then fixed trying to solve this problem,
1.) Replaced fuel filter
2.) Diagnostic found that MAF sensor was not working.Replaced.
3.) Found melted vacuum line from PCV valve to intake plenum.Replaced.
4.) Found melted vacuum line from Evap canister purge valve to Canister.Replaced.
I am trying to find anything wrong with the car without taking off the intake plenum.
after changing all of these things I am leaning towards the problem being the fuel pressure regulator. What would be a indication if the fuel pressure regulator being the problem.
Am I heading in the right direction? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I recently purchased a 2004 GT2. Lately i've been having trouble with it occasionally not wanting to stay started. It only seems to happen if the car has been sitting for 2-3 hours. For instance, I get to work at 8am. If I want to leave around noon to go to lunch it acts like it's going to start and then it dies. The dealer has looked at it twice and has done a couple of computer software upgrades but it still hesistates at times. I've always used gas with ethanol in it, but they have now told me to stop using that, as it may be the cause of it. I'm wondering if anyone else is having this kind of trouble and what you did. The car only has 34,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if it's a fuel issue or something else. It's not showing any kind of codes or displaying any messages so i'm just as confused as the mechanics that have looked at it.
Please help.
Thanks,
Amanda
Anybody else experience this or know what this could be? I need all the background data I can muster. I'm trying to get the dealer to cover it under warranty (wish me luck).
I didn't see any particular service bulletin other than one for the serpintine belt dated APR 04. I hope that's all it is. This is a lease and I HATE sinking cash into something I don't even own. I'll take any history and/or speculation you can provide.
Thanks A LOT for any help!
-Rich
read my answer on #402 about the leaky passenger side water leak. Look for drain tube 1/3 down fire wall in engine compartment. Remove rubber elbow, clean it out, and re-install. After this, my problem was gone on my 1999 GP.
In the past, I have had my car at the car wash and also have had it outside when it rained, but never noticed this.
Has anybody had a similar problem? I am going to take it to the dealer.
I was wondering if any of you own a 97 grand prix GT, and have had many problems with it? My daughter has owned one since 2001, and has experienced many different problems with hers. It has been recalled for the rack and pinnion, and when she brought it in, they told her of all of the cars that they had looked at that day her car was the only one that had the problem. The car also developed a "clunk" noise, in which seven mechanics although they could hear and feel the noise, could not find the problem. Through all of this, she has maintained a folder that is filled with repair bills and upkeep. In fact she has had many people ask her if she would be willing to sell the car because of it's looks.
This afternoon my youngest daughter drove it to my mother's house which is four blocks away. She returned home and was here for about three minutes when my other daughter told me she saw smoke. I went out on the front porch, and watched this car on fire. Of course I called 911 right away, but the fire dept could not save the car. It went so quickly. There is no need to explain what my eldest daugher (the owner of the car) went through as she watched the fire dept try to put the flames out.
Now we face the questions of the insurance and investigators, and they cannot give us an answer as to what happened. They even mentioned that there might have been a factory malfunction that caused it, so I was wondering if there were any of you that had heard of or experienced anything like this before?
I am still in shock as I type this, so forgive me if I made any mistakes. Thanks
The service department seemed to know right away what the trouble was, they had seen it before. Fortunately, it was a relatively easy fix, covered by warranty. The problem apparently is an occasional design flaw in the molding of the antenna in the front of the car (I believe it is the onstar antenna). It was what was causing water to leak into the hood and inside the domw lights. At any rate, the molding was re-sealed and the problem seems to be gone.
Which is fortunate, because Long Island has been inundated with rain and my car would have been in bad shape had I not gotten this taken care of.
THX......
PLEASE HELP THX.....
Please help....THX
Thanks!
And so far so good.These connections for the incar computer must remain clean ,or it can lead to improper startups etc...
This is the first day the car has been driven in 5 weeks while it was parked at the mechanics.
My car was doing the very same thing. It's been to the shop several times and finally after having a Vehicle Data Recorder installed so that they could see what was going on, they discovered that my crank sensor was bad. They replaced that, but left the recorder in the vehicle in case it has this same problem. It still acts like it wants to stall out on occasional start ups, so i'm not sure that i'm out of the woods yet. The service manager did tell me that the crank sensor is a known issue on GM vehicles, so that may be one option. Also, when I was there to pick up my car I asked what the next step was if this continues to happen and they told me that it was to replace the ignition module. I'm so fed up with this issue. I have a 2004 Grand Prix and i've only owned it for about 2 months. In those two months it's been in the shop 6 different times. Good luck to you.
That's a big pile of $$$ for a service contract.
Chances are you'd be better off putting that $2650 in savings and keeping it for a rainy day. At least you'd be earning interest.
Do you plan on keeping that car for five years?
(or 60,000 miles-for one of my customers, 60k miles is equal to about 6 months)
kevvo
Newest problem, fuel gage went bonkers this week. It either sits on completely full or completely empty; if empty, all other indicators for empty fuel come on as normal.
Sometimes hard braking or going around corners will make it change from one to the other. Anyone know the fix?
All other displays appear to function normally, although not 100% sure ventillation system is working properly now.
Previous problem -Transmission had strange whinning sound and hard shifting intermittently, then one day TRAC light came on. Took to mechanic, think he might have done something to solenoid, that seemed to have fixed that problem.
Have replaced front wheel bearings 3 TIMES in 90k miles! :mad: