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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I happened upon your post in this forum. I also have a 2000 GTP and it has a shimmy under acceleration while loading the driver-side front wheel(turning right and accelerating).
Have you resolved your problem? I am puzzled and cannot seem to find a fix. Other than this problem the car runs like a stripped [non-permissible content removed] ape.
Any input would be appreciated.
-Dan
As far as the vibration as I said it's intermittent and it’s a buzz that can be felt in the steering. It's getting really annoying and I would love to be able to tell someone where to look for a problem. Thanks for the help.
If anyone can answer these questions let me know, Im beyond frustrated.
I know the code to unlock my stereo but I can't find my manual. Can anyone give me directions on how to unlock the stereo? Please Help!
Thanks -
Dina Marie
Runs great other than this. No problem above 60mph. Is irritating to say least.. Anybody get this fixed ?? Thanks a bunch.. devil2
The guy had been to Wal-mart, of all places, and spent a butt load of money on tires, struts tie rod ends, alignments, and you name he bought it trying to fix the vibration. We actually had a tech that knew what he was doing. Found the driver side axle had started to go bad, replaced, and what do you know the gentleman had the best riding buick on the road. I am not saying this will fix yours but I am having the same problem on my 2000 grand prix and plan on replacing both axles. www.3800performance.com check it out!
I'm new here. I've a '98 Grand Prix SE. A little while ago, two things happened simultaneously. The key got stuck in the ignition and the car won't come out of the Park gear. I regularly use the manual shift override switch (on the right side of the shifter) to get it out of the Park. I've read quite a few posts here on this issue. I'll try pressing the pin/switch under the steering column for getting the key out when I go home today. Can somebody please tell me for sure which of the following switches is bad.
1. Ignition switch (Price??)
2. Neutral Safety Switch (I guess, aka Shift Interrupt Switch. Am I right? My mechanic calls it PRNDL switch and he said this was the culprit.) The auto parts guy called GM who said Neutral Safety Switch need to be replaced (part price $40-$50).
3. both 1 & 2
How do I test which one is bad and does anybody has any info on how easy/difficult/costly it is to replace either of these switches.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
PS: On a sidenote, is the Driver Window Regulator the circuit board beneath those buttons on the driver window?
Thanks in advance
As I had not have had the worst of problems,
I have had the many, to name a few:
Rear hub had humming noise.
Key stuck in the ignition.
Wiper blades parked vertigle.
Headlight lense cover fell off.
Power windows working when they want.
Crappy cheap interior door covers detaching.
Automatic lights coming on during daylight.
And at present I cannot get my car out of park, (I use overide every day)Cuz mechanics claim it to be the shifter and the part is around $400.-Ish, plus labor
also, ABS, CHECK TIRE & LOW TRAC lights are on and its ONLY $100. for them to scan it and tell what is wrong with the car. Nice,
This site has givin me some insight to some of these problems and what to watch for.. So thanks..
Oh and is it just me, My car has and does or well did everything you can posibbly imagine, short of sewing a sweater.
But No light in the trunk??
My current problem is that occasionally the car will not shift into Park. Sometimes if I just keep shifting all the way down and back up, it will eventually go into Park, although usually with some resistance. Last night I had to drive it around the block, and then I was able to get it into Park but with more than a little resistance.
A couple of months ago, I experienced the "stuck key" problem: the ignition would not turn all the way to the "off" position, and the key would be stuck in the ignition. Left key in overnight and it ran down the battery. Took it in for repair in December, and they said the solenoid on the shifter was defective and they had to replace the whole shifter (cost me about $400).
Anyone else experienced similar problems, or have any suggestions on what could be causing the shifting problem?