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0.9% for 60 months from Honda
base (incl. dest)- $24,732.95
NC taxes (3.2%)- $792.25
doc fee- $398.50
DMV- $68
OTD $25,991.70
+ $75 to get this specific vehicle (grey) transferred from another dealer t(-_-)t
Total OTD= $26,066.7
edit:- oh, and no loyalty/conquest/military discount for me.
Flexicash discount, probably yes.
Only add ons were splash guards and door guards. Said we did not want them, and dealer threw them in. Valued at $700 but another dealer said they are worth a little over $350.
MSRP 29,525
paid 27,230
8,000 for trade in
OTD 20,230
No down payment
1300 in dealer cash
Got 60 months @ .9%
We recommend anyone stopping in to see Kabir. Great group over there. No BS, we did our homework, they saw that and did not play the whoa is me card when we asked for more on our trade. Gave us best price in area by $200 for the OTD price.
Added at no cost - cargo tray, 3 oil changes, 3 car washes, additional full tank of gas.
Hollywood, FL
Hope this helps!
they gave me the 26,500 including dest charge etc. (27,750- 1250 incentives even though i didnt really qualify for the additional 500 in "conquest")
Gene at the dealership made it happen.
I'd been there before and walked out-- and even the last time there was a sales manager who tried to insert a "destination charge" which really ticked me off.
But Gene won me over and i figured that since Boston Honda in Everett MA didnt want to give me the deal (around 25,500) they offered someone else in this forum (because, they said, i didnt live in the area and therefore wouldnt use them for service) bay ridge was my best bet. New Rochelle and Atlantic Honda (in long island) would have given me similar deals-- but bayridge got my business this time!
That being said, I would only deal with Gene-- not any of the other salesmen.
I DID capitulate to the 7 year extended warranty (bumper to bumper) that the finance guy hawked because:
a) it brought my interest rate down 3 percentage points
b) i'm a girl, and mechanics see me coming a mile away. (this is an unfortunate but documented fact: women are ripped off in auto shops)
so, i figured it would give me peace of mind for 7 years (an additonal 4 past the standard 3 yrs) and give me time to actually study and learn about cars (womenautoknow.com) so that i'm better suited to be a strong, knowledgeable and informed advocate in the auto shop!
They stated that that Flex Cash and dealership hold-backs were not available in July and the best they can do (Out-The-Door):
CRV LX AWD: $ 25,700 (includes 200 processing, 300 Title/Tags/Registration, and 6% MD tax)
CRV EX AWD: $ 27,500 (includes 200 processing, 300 Title/Tags/Registration, and 6% MD tax)
Has anyone heard similar or were they trying to pull a fast one on me (since, they knew I brought the check-book to make the deal)? These prices are about $1500 more then they quoted over the phone.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I keep cars no longer than 5 yrs and then i upgrade so warranty is not important to me. i have bought 5 new honda's over the years for my family and only one had a transmission problem that was covered.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I am the one who bought CRV EX-L AWD at Boston for 25000 after 1250 incentives (26250-1250). Please note that 25000 is before dealer documentation fee and TTL. The dealer's documentation fee is 300 dollars and therefore what I pay is 25000 + 300 documentation fee + 1640 tax + 130 title and registration = 27070. Did you clarify with them about the documentation fee? Anyway, enjoy you new CRV.
Have you considered RAV4? I think it is also a good choice.
Vehicle includes destination - $27435.00
Sales tax (8.125%) - 2229.09
Registration - 200.00
Tire fee - 10.00
Inspection 12.50
Doc Fee - 75.00
Flex cash $750/Loyalty $500 total $1250
Thanks to all for your help.
(a) "there are two different people registered under your name in our system"
oops - I have a very unusual last name and have never called/dealt with them before;
(b) "you had told Philip you were interested in a two-wheel drive"
uh, my contact with them started with a written internet inquiry saying 4WD in black and white and no other vehicle was ever mentioned;
(c) "you don't understand my situation and how much money I will be losing..."
and therefore
(d) "the destination fee will have to be added back in"
p.s.
(e) "Philip is permanently unavailable, in the back, not answering his text messages, gone for the day."
I left. And I suggest that anyone who steps foot in Bay Ridge Honda has got to be stark raving mad.
BAYRIDGE honda is either hit or miss they do play alot of games. Try to make your best deal at the end of the month start on the 2nd to last day. You will receive the best price from most dealers with less headache's and games played.
Try Yonkers honda.... Internet sales mgr is Rich and
New Rochelle at the end of the month. Both dealerships will not play games and give you there bottom line price if they cant meet your asking offer.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thanks
In addition, if you qualify, $500 in Conquest $
I DID finance-- for the bare minimum of 7,500. From what I understand, there is NO penalty for paying off the loan immediately--
so to entice them into giving you a better deal, why not tell them you're financing for 7,500 and then just pay the loan in full?
Side note: Bayridge gave me 3/4 of a tank instead of what the manual says should have been "topped off"...and the same salesman that tried to slip the destination charge back into the deal, Kyrie, also told me that the car had zero miles, when in fact it had 30 miles on it. No biggies-- but still kinda lame...
Also, I did speak to samantha at the dealership in Boston and after a different empolyee told me via email that they give the "same prices for all customers" , samantha told me that since I was from NY-- and would NOT service the vehicle there, i could NOT get the same 25,300 quote that the MA resident got...
Seemed unfair, but next time I would NOT tell out of state dealer that I am not a resident UNTIL I had a firm quote and it came time for paperwork...
Hopefully, the extended service contract is with Honda. If not, might be wise to cancel.
The story of your financing indicates this dealer may have employed a classic dealer trick to raise its profits. It is not legal for a dealer to tie the interest rate on a new car purchase to a buyer's purchase of an extended service contract. Essentially what the dealer seems to have done is obtain the interest rate for which you qualified, say 3.9%, from a financial institution. Dealers do not set the interest rate on a new car loan, the interest rate is set by the financial institution, bank or credit union.
In this case the dealer likely raised this 3.9% rate to say 6.9% and told you that was the rate. The dealer than sold you an overpriced extended service contract and reduced the interest rate to the 3.9%. Essentially your friendly finance guy duped you into giving the dealership a considerable profit through this deception. You may not have purchased the extended service contract if the dealer had not played with the interest rate?
What you should do is immediately cancel the extended service contract. You have that right. You will not get a check but the refund will go to the bank to reduce your principal. Essentially you will have less payments.
This is a good example of why any potential car buyer should obtain financing from a bank or credit union before they visit a dealership. Dealers can often provide equal or better financing than a person's bank but how does one know if one has not researched financing before visiting the dealer?
A good way to assure there is no price penalty for a cash buyer is to let the dealer finance the vehicle. You can pay off the loan immediately with no penalty. There is no prepayment penalty on a car loan. Of course you will incurr a small amount of interest during the short period between the purchase and the loan pay off but that would likely be offset by any price considerations the dealer allowed due to your financing the vehicle.
An added bonus to this is the dealer F&I people dispise this as they ultimately do not recieve any commission on a cancelled auto loan. That alone may be worth the few dollars paid in interest.
There is no penalty for a cash buyer. Just dealership greed to selling you that vehicle.
Dealers make more money if you finance thru them. Dealers will take advantage of the folks who did not do there homework on finance rates and getting outside approval first. This is a must in the car game!!!!!
The 1st thing you do when buying a new vehicle is getting approved by a outside lender and letting the dealerships either match or beat your rate.
By doing this first any dealer that tells you need to finance the vehicle for xxx price you are ready. If your a cash and carry person like myself you finance a portion thru that dealership and within 7 to 10 days you could pay off loan.
Penn Fed credit union best rates on new cars. $25 to join.. Reduced or free rate if you are military, law enforcement or work for fed gov't. 2 day approval.
When buying a new vehicle you find your target price and Email, Call 20/30 dealerships speak with the internet managers and make your best deal.
You never let any dealer give you a price. once you start buying like this your done .. dealers will play games and never respect you cause they feel your just like all the other stupid buyers that they take advantage of. If you know how and when to buy you will get a good deal.
Getting that lowest price is obtained when negotiating the last couple of days at the End of any month.
Your target price formula is getting;
Invoice price
minus the dealers hold back
minus dealers doc fee's
minus any rebates and incentives due to you.
Now add your dmv and states taxes for your OTD price.
As you get into july / Aug dealers most likely are getting more incentive money to sell that 2013 model cheaper . Thats why you will see pricing below the starting formula to buy.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
2) what do i say if they claim it is "too late" to cancel the warranty?
Call Penn Fed Union and get pre approved for your loan amount with Bayridge honda in the event something goes bad/ in that event just pay off there loan with Penn fed check.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
So we are at 27,860 - 1000 = 26,860.
I can't control DMV or taxes so that leaves us with holdback. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks to all !!!
And when you call/email - do you just say here's my price. Can you meet it?
On your flex cash question???? I would finance the least amount possible. 5 or 10k. If the dealership insists you finance more than by all means. You want that 500 dollar incentive. If loyalty applies you want to make sure dealer is given you that incentive along with flex cash AFTER you AGREED on the sale price of vehicle. I find by asking dealerships about incentives/rebates and his doc fee's first before we start price Negotiations makes the trans action alot easier. Only Dealers with flex cash to give you deal with first. All other dealers without flex cash go on back of your buying list.
Or you could ask dealerships for price first. Either way gets the job done effectively
If invoice is 27,860 you call/ email all dealers internet mgrs. on the last days of this month and let each dealership know you will buy on that day for 1000 or more below dealers invoice for your make, and model/ color, plus any incentives you may qualify for. You need to ask each dealership after your request to buy if they still have flex cash to give out and is the loyalty still avail. Ask what each dealerships doc fee's are. If a dealership has high doc fee's you add then onto your asking price so its a wash on the bill of sale. If doc fee is lets say $ 299 your asking price to buy that vehicle should be 1299 below invoice price plus incentives.
Check this board to see what kind of pricing people are getting in your area. You might be able to get either more or less than 1000 below invoice. Pricing should be good at the end of july.
Any dealerships that are not internet friendly, Managers who play games / dont give you a straight answer on pricing just thank them and move on. But let each one of those dealerships know your bottom line price to buy to earn your business that day. These kind of dealerships are not up with the times and do not deserve your business.. Dealerships who cant identify the internet buyer today always lose the sale every time by buyers like us..There is no need to step into any dealership to negotiate unless you have a signed contract/ bill of sale by fax or Agreed price with the Out the door numbers by either Internet sales mgr, or manager that is being held with a 500 dollar credit card deposit.
Have fun good luck
Brian
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I looked at posts over the last 6 months and it looks like the discounts increase as time goes on. No surprise there. It looks like the best 2 recent deals adjusting for doc fees were $1,300 and about $1,800 below invoice. Flex and loyalty were then applied on top of this. I netted the doc fee as you suggested so a $1,600 discount with $300 doc fees is really a $1,300 discount.
Given the lateness of the car year, does $1,500 seem reasonable?
And to those who recently got the $1,300 and $1,800 discount, how did you pull that off?
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
There is often an impact if paying in cash. Dealers feel they make less in the F&I office on a cash deal, so they may not sell as low on a cash deal. Probably best to let them think you are financing, at least until you settle on the selling price.
Important to recognize your financing is not linked to the extended service contract. No finance institution can base the interest rate on the purchase of an extended service contract.
Make sure you do everything in writing. The dealer F&I person will do any and everything to get you not to cancel. Just keep in mind you have the absolute right to cancel. If the F&I person will not work with you demand to see the sales manager or general manager. If necessary tell them you will write to your state's Attorney General. Looks like they lied about the extended service contract and financing. This scam is currently under scrutiny by the Feds. You should be able to google F&I scams to find info. Look under CFPB.
If they won't work with you get the address of the warranty company and work directly with them.
Not sure about the LoJack. If not installed you should be able to cancel.
-car automatically comes with Lo-Jack. Who thought of this? I have no use for Lo-Jack and the $695 is crazy.
MSRP is coming in 25725 and the dealer has discounted 1696. All said and done, OTD cost is 28,395. Dealer will not show me complete breakdown of costs so I can take off doc fees and other junk fees.
So two questions....1. What is the best way to handle? 2. What is a fair price for this car?
Thanks.
Fair price 1000 below dealers invoice $24,379 plus any rebates and incentives you qualify for which is then minused of the 24,379. Then you add your dmv, doc fee's, and taxes for the OTD price.
As far as low jack find another ex model with out or another dealership.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I am looking to buy a new CRV EX-L w/o nav r entertainment.
The local dealer here in Iowa gave me a number of "$27,960 plus fees and accessories".
He also mentioned about "Conquest Cash of $500" for owning a non Honda car.
But hasnt really given me a bill of sale or formal out the door price document.
What should I do.
Shall I press him to send me the pricing contract or walk in the dealer ship.
The dealership is about 30 miles from my house and I dont really want to drive all the way and back just so that they can subject me to all sorts of tricks and frustration.
Thanks,
Chinbaj
I just filled an online application for a Honda CR-V on the Honda financing site.
In a few minutes I got an email saying I have been approved, but I don't find any mention of the APR in it.
I looked at the certificate & even that has no mention of the APR.
Is this normal or does it mean I don't qualify for the 0.9%.
Thanks.
If you want to breakdown your deal i will comment on your posting.
For starters the OTD price gives no info on your deal. Each state has a different tax rate, doc fee, and dmv charge. .. Post this info
What is the buying Sale price of your model with destination charge included.
What are the dealers doc fee charge.
If i am correct in assuming your model with dest/charge invoice price is
$26,690
Buying atleast 1000 below dealers invoice is a must for this model in late july with the 2014 rolling out in sept.
Take another 1k off for incentives. If your sale price to buy is not $24,690 or lower its not a good deal. post what state your in.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I really would like the EX-L w navi only because driving alone its hard to know where I'm going all the time. Will the 2014 nav be an upgrade, heard many complaints about the current system. Also wondering about iPhone compatability with text messaging. Not available on the 2013 hope the 2014 is.
Will I be able to get much discount if I buy shortly after they arrive at the dealership if I opt for 2014? Internet pricing seems to be less of a hassle and hopefully better price break.
Thanks!!
With the new Accord being rolled out with CVT, many say that the 2014 CR-V will also replace the current automatic tranny with a CVT.
Just something to think about.