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2013 and earlier-Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • dghtrfgddghtrfgd Posts: 30
    Do you think i should have stood my ground with regard to the extended warranty? Is it a waste of money?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,897
    edited July 2013
    Me personally i think its a waste of money. Your buying a honda for build / quality. But if it gives you piece of mind you could get a 7yr extended for $1100 dollars from Bernardi or Sacchi honda.
    I keep cars no longer than 5 yrs and then i upgrade so warranty is not important to me. i have bought 5 new honda's over the years for my family and only one had a transmission problem that was covered.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • zhyuanzhyuan Posts: 13
    Congratulations on your new CRV!
    I am the one who bought CRV EX-L AWD at Boston for 25000 after 1250 incentives (26250-1250). Please note that 25000 is before dealer documentation fee and TTL. The dealer's documentation fee is 300 dollars and therefore what I pay is 25000 + 300 documentation fee + 1640 tax + 130 title and registration = 27070. Did you clarify with them about the documentation fee? Anyway, enjoy you new CRV.
    Have you considered RAV4? I think it is also a good choice.
  • Just purchased 2013 Honda CRV EXL AWD OTD for $28711.59 in NY. Breakdown as follows:

    Vehicle includes destination - $27435.00
    Sales tax (8.125%) - 2229.09
    Registration - 200.00
    Tire fee - 10.00
    Inspection 12.50
    Doc Fee - 75.00
    Flex cash $750/Loyalty $500 total $1250

    Thanks to all for your help.
  • js1234js1234 Posts: 1
    A recent post on this site suggested dealing with Gene and Bay Ridge Honda, Brooklyn, NY. So I went out to see them with that post's deal for a CR-V EXL AWD, (expecting to add the costs for navigation), but they wouldn't match that price (plus the navi). The excuse? That person had financed, I wanted to pay cash. So I left. However, they called me back the following day (today) on three occasions to try to entice me to return. I spent the day calling alternative dealerships that were farther from my home and ultimately presented "Philip" at Bay Ridge with the last best offer. He said - "after talking to his manager" that they would match the best offer I received (still $200 more than the Edmunds recent post). Just before making the 30-minute drive a second time, I called Philip and asked him to verify 100% the price and that there would be only two additional charges (a) tax, and (b) DMV, and nothing else, no destination fee, nothing. He said 'absolutely, for sure.' He also asked me to be there before a specific time. I made the drive, arriving 15 minutes in advance. Philip was "not available." But lo-and-behold his boss was. Here is what the XL!#$#!! said:
    (a) "there are two different people registered under your name in our system"
    oops - I have a very unusual last name and have never called/dealt with them before;
    (b) "you had told Philip you were interested in a two-wheel drive"
    uh, my contact with them started with a written internet inquiry saying 4WD in black and white and no other vehicle was ever mentioned;
    (c) "you don't understand my situation and how much money I will be losing..."
    and therefore
    (d) "the destination fee will have to be added back in"
    (e) "Philip is permanently unavailable, in the back, not answering his text messages, gone for the day."
    I left. And I suggest that anyone who steps foot in Bay Ridge Honda has got to be stark raving mad.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,897
    Nice detailed post.
    BAYRIDGE honda is either hit or miss they do play alot of games. Try to make your best deal at the end of the month start on the 2nd to last day. You will receive the best price from most dealers with less headache's and games played.

    Try Yonkers honda.... Internet sales mgr is Rich and
    New Rochelle at the end of the month. Both dealerships will not play games and give you there bottom line price if they cant meet your asking offer.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • dan49dan49 Posts: 7
    Did you deal with a salesman or internet sales at BOSTON HONDA curious if you can give me their name.I am in the market and starting the process.Also did you look at the rav 4s
  • zhyuanzhyuan Posts: 13
    I started with internet quote and the manager's name is samantha.
  • will123will123 Posts: 8
    It appears that July 8 was the ending date for various incentives (flex cash, loyalty). Is it possible to still get them or should I simply wait until the next round. I'm not sure when this would be so any suggestions would be appreciated. I want to buy by the end of August at the latest and preferably sooner. Thanks!
  • rvazrvaz Posts: 6
    Flex $ reduced from $750 to $500.
    In addition, if you qualify, $500 in Conquest $
  • rvazrvaz Posts: 6
    Last night picked up CRV - EX - L, paid $28,300 OTD, includes New Jersey Tax, Plates, destination etc etc.
  • rvazrvaz Posts: 6
    Last night picked up CRV - EX - L, AWD, paid $28,300 OTD, includes New Jersey Tax, New Plates, destination etc etc
  • dghtrfgddghtrfgd Posts: 30
    edited July 2013
    "Recent post" was me-- I bought the crv exl at bayridge through Gene for 26500 after 1250 incentives from Honda (even though i did NOT qualify for the conquest 500-- they gave it to me at 26,500) .
    I DID finance-- for the bare minimum of 7,500. From what I understand, there is NO penalty for paying off the loan immediately--
    so to entice them into giving you a better deal, why not tell them you're financing for 7,500 and then just pay the loan in full?
    Side note: Bayridge gave me 3/4 of a tank instead of what the manual says should have been "topped off"...and the same salesman that tried to slip the destination charge back into the deal, Kyrie, also told me that the car had zero miles, when in fact it had 30 miles on it. No biggies-- but still kinda lame...
    Also, I did speak to samantha at the dealership in Boston and after a different empolyee told me via email that they give the "same prices for all customers" , samantha told me that since I was from NY-- and would NOT service the vehicle there, i could NOT get the same 25,300 quote that the MA resident got...
    Seemed unfair, but next time I would NOT tell out of state dealer that I am not a resident UNTIL I had a firm quote and it came time for paperwork...
  • rvazrvaz Posts: 6
    They are coming out with 2014 SUV in september. You should get better prices in August, except your color choices may be limited.
  • bella35bella35 Posts: 2
    Any good incentives when paying in full with cash? Everyone that I have spoke to wants me to finance.
  • zhyuanzhyuan Posts: 13
    To my knowledge, no any incentives for paying with cash.
  • ltlladyltllady Posts: 27
    In reality no extended service contract provides bumper-to-bumper coverage. If the F&I guy made this statement he was lying. The small print will reveal what is not covered, which is probably more than what is covered.

    Hopefully, the extended service contract is with Honda. If not, might be wise to cancel.

    The story of your financing indicates this dealer may have employed a classic dealer trick to raise its profits. It is not legal for a dealer to tie the interest rate on a new car purchase to a buyer's purchase of an extended service contract. Essentially what the dealer seems to have done is obtain the interest rate for which you qualified, say 3.9%, from a financial institution. Dealers do not set the interest rate on a new car loan, the interest rate is set by the financial institution, bank or credit union.

    In this case the dealer likely raised this 3.9% rate to say 6.9% and told you that was the rate. The dealer than sold you an overpriced extended service contract and reduced the interest rate to the 3.9%. Essentially your friendly finance guy duped you into giving the dealership a considerable profit through this deception. You may not have purchased the extended service contract if the dealer had not played with the interest rate?

    What you should do is immediately cancel the extended service contract. You have that right. You will not get a check but the refund will go to the bank to reduce your principal. Essentially you will have less payments.

    This is a good example of why any potential car buyer should obtain financing from a bank or credit union before they visit a dealership. Dealers can often provide equal or better financing than a person's bank but how does one know if one has not researched financing before visiting the dealer?
  • ltlladyltllady Posts: 27
    Actually, telling a dealer you are paying in cash will often result in a higher price. The reason for this is dealers know they can make additional profit if a person finances a vehicle. This additional profit is attained via finance reserve, where dealer increases the interest rate, or through the sale of various F&I products which are sold at exaggerated prices in the F&I office. Dealers know people who finance are more likely to buy the F&I products than are people who pay cash.

    A good way to assure there is no price penalty for a cash buyer is to let the dealer finance the vehicle. You can pay off the loan immediately with no penalty. There is no prepayment penalty on a car loan. Of course you will incurr a small amount of interest during the short period between the purchase and the loan pay off but that would likely be offset by any price considerations the dealer allowed due to your financing the vehicle.

    An added bonus to this is the dealer F&I people dispise this as they ultimately do not recieve any commission on a cancelled auto loan. That alone may be worth the few dollars paid in interest.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,897
    edited July 2013
    There are many truths and good points to your last posts. I would like to add that when your buying said vehicle It is always best to let dealer know if they cant meet your asking price tell dealer you will finance the Vehicle thru them at his best rate matching or beating your Credit union, or bank rate to get deal done. If they can't dealer has to then meet your asking price or you walk.

    There is no penalty for a cash buyer. Just dealership greed to selling you that vehicle.

    Dealers make more money if you finance thru them. Dealers will take advantage of the folks who did not do there homework on finance rates and getting outside approval first. This is a must in the car game!!!!!

    The 1st thing you do when buying a new vehicle is getting approved by a outside lender and letting the dealerships either match or beat your rate.

    By doing this first any dealer that tells you need to finance the vehicle for xxx price you are ready. If your a cash and carry person like myself you finance a portion thru that dealership and within 7 to 10 days you could pay off loan.

    Penn Fed credit union best rates on new cars. $25 to join.. Reduced or free rate if you are military, law enforcement or work for fed gov't. 2 day approval.

    When buying a new vehicle you find your target price and Email, Call 20/30 dealerships speak with the internet managers and make your best deal.
    You never let any dealer give you a price. once you start buying like this your done .. dealers will play games and never respect you cause they feel your just like all the other stupid buyers that they take advantage of. If you know how and when to buy you will get a good deal.

    Getting that lowest price is obtained when negotiating the last couple of days at the End of any month.

    Your target price formula is getting;

    Invoice price
    minus the dealers hold back
    minus dealers doc fee's
    minus any rebates and incentives due to you.
    Now add your dmv and states taxes for your OTD price.

    As you get into july / Aug dealers most likely are getting more incentive money to sell that 2013 model cheaper . Thats why you will see pricing below the starting formula to buy.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • dghtrfgddghtrfgd Posts: 30
    edited July 2013
    1) what will happen to my interest rate when i cancel the extended warranty?-- they DID link the lower interest rate to my purchasing the extended warranty and lo-jack "package". (they have NOT yet installed the lo-jack-- will that work in my favor?)
    2) what do i say if they claim it is "too late" to cancel the warranty?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,897
    You made a bad deal and now you want to back out. Yes you can cancel your service Warranty you have the right to. Will dealer honor his end and redo your agreement. Bayridge Honda will not and why should they... You should of known better you have been reading these posts for sometime now.

    Call Penn Fed Union and get pre approved for your loan amount with Bayridge honda in the event something goes bad/ in that event just pay off there loan with Penn fed check.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • May I ask what dealer?
  • will123will123 Posts: 8
    Hi Brian and others. I am very interested in your suggestions for a late July pricing offer for the EX-L without nav or res. Invoice including destination is 27,860. I qualify for either conquest or loyalty - that appears to be $500. It looks like flex is down to $500 now. I will take the smallest loan amount to qualify then pay off immediately. (Does anyone know what the minimum loan is to still obtain the flex?)

    So we are at 27,860 - 1000 = 26,860.

    I can't control DMV or taxes so that leaves us with holdback. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks to all !!!

    And when you call/email - do you just say here's my price. Can you meet it?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,897
    edited July 2013
    On your flex cash question???? I would finance the least amount possible. 5 or 10k. If the dealership insists you finance more than by all means. You want that 500 dollar incentive. If loyalty applies you want to make sure dealer is given you that incentive along with flex cash AFTER you AGREED on the sale price of vehicle. I find by asking dealerships about incentives/rebates and his doc fee's first before we start price Negotiations makes the trans action alot easier. Only Dealers with flex cash to give you deal with first. All other dealers without flex cash go on back of your buying list.

    Or you could ask dealerships for price first. Either way gets the job done effectively

    If invoice is 27,860 you call/ email all dealers internet mgrs. on the last days of this month and let each dealership know you will buy on that day for 1000 or more below dealers invoice for your make, and model/ color, plus any incentives you may qualify for. You need to ask each dealership after your request to buy if they still have flex cash to give out and is the loyalty still avail. Ask what each dealerships doc fee's are. If a dealership has high doc fee's you add then onto your asking price so its a wash on the bill of sale. If doc fee is lets say $ 299 your asking price to buy that vehicle should be 1299 below invoice price plus incentives.

    Check this board to see what kind of pricing people are getting in your area. You might be able to get either more or less than 1000 below invoice. Pricing should be good at the end of july.

    Any dealerships that are not internet friendly, Managers who play games / dont give you a straight answer on pricing just thank them and move on. But let each one of those dealerships know your bottom line price to buy to earn your business that day. These kind of dealerships are not up with the times and do not deserve your business.. Dealerships who cant identify the internet buyer today always lose the sale every time by buyers like us..There is no need to step into any dealership to negotiate unless you have a signed contract/ bill of sale by fax or Agreed price with the Out the door numbers by either Internet sales mgr, or manager that is being held with a 500 dollar credit card deposit.

    Have fun good luck


    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • rvazrvaz Posts: 6
    Hamilton Honda in Hamilton, NJ
  • will123will123 Posts: 8
    Thanks Brian

    I looked at posts over the last 6 months and it looks like the discounts increase as time goes on. No surprise there. It looks like the best 2 recent deals adjusting for doc fees were $1,300 and about $1,800 below invoice. Flex and loyalty were then applied on top of this. I netted the doc fee as you suggested so a $1,600 discount with $300 doc fees is really a $1,300 discount.

    Given the lateness of the car year, does $1,500 seem reasonable?

    And to those who recently got the $1,300 and $1,800 discount, how did you pull that off?
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,897
    Yes it is................. The more dealerships you get involved the better chance of hitting your target price. If 1500 is not obtainable in your area lower your offer some to make the sale. 2014 models will be on dealers lots in Sept making for some great deals on the 2013 models

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • ken117ken117 Posts: 249
    Your advise is spot on. The only way to get a fair price is to base the offer on dealer cost plus a fair profit of 3 to 5 percent of dealer cost. Basing a purchase on price, any price like True Car, will usually result in paying too much.

    There is often an impact if paying in cash. Dealers feel they make less in the F&I office on a cash deal, so they may not sell as low on a cash deal. Probably best to let them think you are financing, at least until you settle on the selling price.
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 249
    You can cancel the extended service contract. That will have no impact on your finance rate or monthly payment. The money will be sent to the finance company and will reduce your principal. In the end you will make less payments.

    Important to recognize your financing is not linked to the extended service contract. No finance institution can base the interest rate on the purchase of an extended service contract.

    Make sure you do everything in writing. The dealer F&I person will do any and everything to get you not to cancel. Just keep in mind you have the absolute right to cancel. If the F&I person will not work with you demand to see the sales manager or general manager. If necessary tell them you will write to your state's Attorney General. Looks like they lied about the extended service contract and financing. This scam is currently under scrutiny by the Feds. You should be able to google F&I scams to find info. Look under CFPB.

    If they won't work with you get the address of the warranty company and work directly with them.

    Not sure about the LoJack. If not installed you should be able to cancel.
  • Anyone now when to expect the new 2014 CR-Vs? I've heard that they may come out in September, but others say they may come out in August. Would I get a better deal on a 2013 in September (or whatever month the new 2014s come out) or October?
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