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I would love to talk to your salesperson. I am in Naperville as well and went to a dealership there...My salesperson was a total jerk. He refused to give me any price, just kept asking what payments I could afford, and saying I will get you the price if you agree to buy tonight. Even wrote it on the contract..."I will buy tonight" then a space and a yes or a no. I told him that no matter what I would not buy without thinking it over for 24 hours...He completely refused to give me a price. I finally got up to walk out and he said he would get the floor manager for me...The floor manager gave me a price of 22,000 before TTL and options...he said that there were incentives, which allowed him to go lower It would be good until the eveing of the 5th...but that price is not even close to what you got your for. I was planning on going into Schaumberg (even though the floor manager was a big improvement over the sales guy). I asked for the absolute bottom price and typically I don't renegotiate...I would be VERY appreciative of any insight you could offer...I researched this to death, but somehow missed the $750 incintive...
(I am going to a second dealer today, in hopes of coming up with a better deal. Thanks to this site, with a ton of good info, I feel better prepared.)
Any suggestions????
455 with that kind of money down is crazy. Are you way upside down and trading or something? I put 5k down on my SE and pay 174.92 bi-weekly for 60 months and that is with TT&L plus the 100k warranty included in the note. (That is 378.99 a month.)
Do yourself a favor and don't buy from that dealer.
Yes I was negotiating price only. (but keeping the monthly payments in mind) I thought the monthly payment price was way too high. (I wanted to put around $5000 down as well)
I am going to another dealer today (assuming they're open) to see what they are willing to offer me. Financing rates...are banks cheaper than dealerships? (in general) Do you have to be a member of a credit union? (I know nothing about credit unions)
Thanks again!
What do you guys think???
The LX models have 16" steel styled wheels. The EX models have 16" alloy wheels and the wheel locks are only compatible with the alloy wheels. The retail listed cost for the wheel locks is $59 at Bernardiparts.com. They sell them for less, but $59 is listed as the retail cost. Installation time for wheel locks is virtually nil. We had our accessories which required installation done by the dealer...and wheel locks was actually something that my husband did for me in five minutes. The splash guard retail cost is listed at $63 on that same website (again, not what they actually sell them for, but what they list as retail). Anyway, you could ask for them to provide you with an accessory of equal or slightly higher value...or you could use the retail numbers here to determine what they used as a mark-up rate and ask for a refund....not sure if they will do that, but you can try. Either way, they included something in the deal which you agreed to and signed for...and there is no reason that the dealer should take that approximately $80 for their pocket without you getting something in exchange.
Hope that helps...good luck and keep us posted.
Google for credit unions where you live and get your finance deal ready before you go to the dealer. Dealers will always make money off your loan as they get a percentage back from the bank on the back end of the deal. If you can get bought at 5.5% and the dealer sets you up at 6.25 or 6.5, they get a check back from the lender after you make three payments or such. Go in with a sight draft from your credit union and you know exactly what the deal is for.
I got my best price from using the Internet department and just requesting bids from 5 different dealers. Their price was within 200 bucks of the lowest I've seen paid for a SE model. A lot less stress and I was in and out of the dealer in less than an hour and a half. Took the SE home with 4 miles on it.
Good luck!
Post 3207 was thejerseydevil.
I'd give the other guy some crap but NJ doesn't have much that is cool. The myth of The Jersey Devil is one of the few interesting things (especially for people like me who always lived in Southern NJ till recently).
Yes, the Raleigh dealer was Leith Honda on Capitol Blvd.
When I lived in NJ, I found any dealer owned by DCH to have exceptional internet sales. My experience here in NC was ok but not as good as my few DCH internet sales in NJ.
Are you financing for 36, 48 or 60 months?
If you are financing for 60 months at $455 a month with $4500 down, you are looking at the total of $31,800 ($455*60+$4500), or about 20% Interest rate.
How are your math skills? How is your credit? Income to debt ratio?
Even if you finance for 48 month at $455 per month, the interest is still too much.
I am looking into a credit union...I have already checked out a bank and their interest rates are pretty high. My credit it really good...I checked it out online last night. I have no idea about my income to debt ratio...my credit report says my score isn't as high as it could be b/c I don't HAVE enough debt.
I'm going to do a little more research...and wait a few weeks before making any decisions.
Thanks in advance!
Hope this helps someone out there!
Atlanta suburbs...east side. Carey Paul Honda.
I am looking into a credit union...I have already checked out a bank and their interest rates are pretty high. My credit it really good...I checked it out online last night. I have no idea about my income to debt ratio...my credit report says my score isn't as high as it could be b/c I don't HAVE enough debt.
I'm going to do a little more research...and wait a few weeks before making any decisions.
You can apply online for Honda finance. Go to the corporate site, AHFC and fill out the application. This way you know for sure if you qualify or not for Honda financing. Honda does not have tiers, you are either qualified, or you are not. They don't jack up your rate if you have less then perfect credit, they just tell you "no" Then dealers usually find local lenders, or go to a loan shark.
To qualify for Honda finance you have to have FICO of 700 or more, and high income to debt ratio.
Honda owners have the highest median income when compared to other makes, so they can be picky. But that allows them to offer rates that are usually lower than credit unions or anyone else, because they don't have to take on risks.
Median household income
year ended april 2005
1. Honda — $87,907
2. Nissan — $82,618
3. DaimlerChrysler — $81,735
4. Toyota — $80,746
5. Ford* — $80,059
6. GM — $75,888
*Excludes Aston Martin
Source: J.D. Power and Associates
2005 light-truck sales mix
1. Honda — 42.7%
2. Toyota — 43.0%
3. Nissan — 46.8%
4. GM — 59.9%
5. DaimlerChrysler — 65.3%
6. Ford — 66.6%
Source: Automotive News Data Center
CAFE
Corporate Average Fuel Economy,
2005 Model year
1. Honda — 25.1 mpg
2. Toyota — 23.5 mpg
3. Nissan — 21.7 mpg
4. GM — 20.3 mpg
5. DaimlerChrysler — 19.8 mpg
6. Ford* — 19.5 mpg
*Includes Mazda
Source: EPA
Green image
1. Toyota
2. Honda
3. Ford
4. Nissan
5. GM
6. DaimlerChrysler
Source: Automotive News analysis
Overall rankings
1. Honda — 23 pts
2. Toyota — 19 pts
3. Nissan — 16 pts
4. GM — 9 pts
4. DaimlerChrysler — 9 pts
5. Ford — 8 pts
You know the invoice of the vehicle, you decide what a fair profit is for the dealer. That's what you pay. Tax is a given, you pay it no matter what. Doesn't matter where you buy, state law will require you to pay the tax for the county where you live. Most will charge a DOC fee. It may vary from place to place, but no by much. That should be it. If they are adding anything else (e.g. advertising fee) it is a rip off. Just get the deal you want on the vehicle, the rest takes care of itself (with your diligence of course).
Dealers may try to stick it to you with other add on options. They agree with you on the vehicle price but then add things like a $300 doc fee (which shouldn't be much more than $50), overpriced fabric/paint protection, etc.
Getting the OTD price gives you leverage when they try to play games after the fact. Yes, taxes will vary from state-to-state (none here in Oregon )
I always ask for the OTD price with a complete breakdown of the pricing. When they try to hit you for some worthless item that they already "installed" (paint protection for example), I will refuse to pay for it. Since it cost them virtually nothing, they will usually just throw it in rather than lose the sale.
OTD prices are valuable in negotiations.
When posting here on the forum they get a little convoluted. In reading prices on the forum I would prefer to read of the vehicle price only since taxes, etc. just cloud the actual pricing.
My two cents
But reading your post I can say that we differ on purchasing tactics. I know the invoice price for the vehicle. I know how much profit I want to give the dealer. I know how much the sales tax is. I know how much the DOC fee is. That seems to cover it.
You negotiate on a vehicle that may have stuff on it that you don't necessarily want or need (paint protection). I buy the vehicle I want equipped the way I want it. And if a dealer plays "games" as you imply is the reason you like to deal with OTD prices, I don't buy from them. Different strokes....
MSRP 22,145
Invoice 20,504
TMV 21,165 ("what others are paying")
(above prices include destination charge)
This gal got one for 19,375... (dest. included)...
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef11a94/3111
I suggest that everyone post as much info about all the parts of their price package as possible, that will solve this question of what to post, just post it all.
Are there any dealer incentives active at this time?
The dealer noted that this model is made in both England and Japan. You can tell if a car is made in Japan if the VIN starts with a J. (1 is USA, somewhere there's a chart).
Piazza: 19,504
Keenan: 19,655
Willis:
Sloane: (earlier post reported 19,375)
Conicelli:
One problem, asked about Black side steps, was quoted full price of $674 ($461 plus installation). I'm going to have to try to drive a harder deal on that. Or is it easier to just find some 3rd party aftermarket running boards?
Thanks!
Actually I will get as many dealers dealing against each other as possible. That's where the "extra" stuff can come into play. It is superfluous and I just ignore it. I ultimately get the car I want and at at least several hundreds under invoice. Like the dealers, I play games too-- after all, a game with only one player isn't as much fun.
I purchased at Victory Honda in Sandusky Ohio I was treated like royalty (which is what I expect when spending this amount of money in one day) We were never left to sit or get bored for more than 10 minutes at any point as a floor salesman, internet saleman, general manager and finance manager all kept coming to us during our process to keep us informed of where things were at with the deal, especially during that lag time of vehicle prep they do from when you've sealed the deal.
Prior to this purchase I received quotes for the typical model without all the above fluff. These were the prices quoted to me for internet deals - although I still had to talk to most of them on the phone to get them to match and compete against one another.
23,410 - Motorcars - Cleveland Heights Ohio
23,410 - Sunnyside Honda - Middleberg Heights, Ohio
23,500 - Whiteys Honda - Mansfield, Ohio
24,060 - Matia Honda - Elyria, Ohio
and of course, some dealers didn't bother to respond, so I knew that I didn't want to deal with them anyway.
Considering the following:
24,060 - Invoice Price
24,882 - Edmunds TMV for what my area is
I was very happy with the prices I was quoted. Would have been even happier if we had done it a few days earlier - we missed out on the $750 rebate! Since we didn't start looking until the 6th (it ended the 5th) SIGH-- Oh well, When I bought my 2000 SE I got a great deal, but not as much under invoice in my area back then.
Anyway, it was more than 45 min to an hour drive to other dealerships outside of Sandusky for me. I had a really bad experience with the prior Honda Dealership Sandusky Motors in 2000, HOWEVER, now that it is owned by Victory Honda they have done a total 360! I got a great deal on my souped up version and was treated fairly for the most part on my trade (a 2001 Grand Prix with 170,000 miles)
I will also mention that Sunnyside did a wonderful job for us in 2000 with our last purchase - so if thats closer for you take time to check them out as well.
I told the new Victory about the horrid experience and treatment from the old owners, did my homework ahead of time and they were willing to do just about anything to keep me from going to Cleveland. Even though my husband was with me, I did the negotiations (he hates that stuff)and they knew up front that I was more interested in bottom line prices and trade in value than silly things like colors and cup holders!
I promised Victory I wouldn't divulge the price I paid, however, I did go for the model with the add-ons and was thrilled with my bottom line! If you've done any research on CR-V pricing in this area and based on the standard SE model prices I listed above (you should come to the conclusion that where I bought from would have had to beat or come close to the pricing to save me the additional 2 hours drive time round trip to a cleveland area dealer) I will say this, they definitely cleared out all that soap taste that was still in my mouth from the old Sandusky Motors days.
I love my new honda and now we have his and hers CR-V's! The 2000 we have is great, never any problems and has 65,000 miles. I didn't bother looking at another model by competitors in this category as the CR-V already gives me everything I want and then some on the newer 2006!
I agree with the prior post on playing the game. I had FUN doing this deal since they knew I was a woman on a mission to get what I wanted for the price I wanted it at! Not too mention I impressed the hell out of my husband who would have just paid the first price offer without the research. Take the time to get the internet pricing, secure financing before you go if you can and let them know you are willing to drive further than your own city to save a few dollars!
We considered a second CR-V a few years ago but they didn't have the SE model then and I like the leather much better than the cloth, plus resale value of an SE seems to be substantially better than the LX or EX versions - at least in my area.
See my post in the Pilot forum for details on my experience.
My OTD price for CR-V 2WD was $19.806 with all the taxes and fees included. As of accessories I got only mud guards and pin stripes (it took me 5 hrs later on to get rid of them because they were covered with damn paint sealant and I had to wax and polish whole car).
It took me 2 weeks to negotiate the price with a central Alabama dealer(I don’t want to tell you the dealer name – please, negotiate your deal yourself, it is a lot of fun), I came the last day of June, Friday. My APR with Honda Finance was 5.8 with $5000 down.
Thank you again.
Piazza: 19,504
Keenan: 19,655
Freed: 20,150
Conicelli: 20,504
Guess who is getting my business? Worth shopping around for a few quotes folks.
A tip on dealer accessories. Its probably better to avoid them, but if you need them, you can get a quote on them (installed price) from honda's web site. e.g. $551 for the running boards. So I will point that out if I end up buying from a dealer who asks $599 or $674 for that. I can just buy them later during my first oil change.
Another tip: many of the dealers let you check their inventory online through their web site. Worth doing to see what they have, colors, VINs, etc.
Also - to all of you, my dealer near Pittsburgh is telling me that there is still dealer cash available on the CR-V. From the price she is giving me, I'm assuming that it's about $740.
2 weeks ago, I purchased a Saraha Sand Metallic 2006 LX 2WD with no options except front and rear mud guards (which were already on the vehicle) for $19,000 in Newark, DE. That includes Destination. No fees we paid except tax and tags, which I paid outside of the financing. I went in with my financing in hand and having negotiated the purchase price ahead of time via email and 2 phone calls. Took an hour-long test drive (without the salesman), signed the papers and went home with my CR-V. Very happy with the deal.
Mine had the dealer's wax, pinstripe and color matched door edge guards in the deal.
Mine also has painted pinstripes. I didn't realize pinstripes are an option until I read some other posts, and I never even looked at the dealer's window sticker 'cuz I had a firm price before even setting foot on the premises. BTW, I had a quote for $100 less (i.e. $18,900) for a 2WD LX (I don't know if it would've had mud guards and pinstripes) from a dealer about an hour away in West Chester, PA. I decided to spend $100 more to buy from a dealer only a couple of miles away. If nothing else, it probably would've cost $20 in gas just to drive my gas-hog Chrysler minivan to West Chester.