Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

2013 and earlier-Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience

12728303233429

Comments

  • edunnettedunnett Posts: 553
    There are technically no "leftovers" yet - not until the 2005's roll onto the lots. Then you MIGHT see rebates. Also doc fees vary state to state and dealer to dealer. I'm in CA and paid $45 doc fee at my Subaru dealership and $50 at the Honda dealership for two recent new car purchases. There are legal limits to doc fees on a per state basis I hear, but I dont' know how to check that. -elissa
  • jra03jra03 Posts: 1
    We just signed a deal for a 2004 CR-V LX 4WD Manual w/Front Side Airbags, Mojave Mist Paint, Door Edge Guards, Rear Air Deflector, Door Visors, Side Steps, Remote Keyless Entry, Front Splash Guards, Front Ashtray & Lighter, Cargo Area Cover, Cargo Tray, All Season Floor Mats, 7/100k Extended Warranty. "Out The Door" price (less tax & tags)was $22,027.55. This was the best I could get out of the three dealers that responded via e-mail to my quote request.

       The manual transmission is a rare bird around here, have to wait till Tuesday to get possession (with my fingers crossed).

       Quotes varied from the above price up to $23,035.00. Given five working days to respond, three out of six dealers didn't even bother to reply by the cutoff date, guess they don't need the sales.

       Is there anyone else from this area out there with some numbers to compare? I think I got a fair price but that feeling may just reflect the caliber of Honda salesmen down here.

    JRA03
  • Who knows? You have so many trinkets like a rear air deflector, who can tell. What did you pay for the CRV without the 213 accessories? That way we can compare apples to apples, not apples to oranges with do-dads.

    Have fun with your new truck.

    Two Year.
  • tigerlilytigerlily Posts: 8
    Hi--Anybody have any dealership referrals to give. I have gotten quotes from many around here, but would like to know if there are any to avoid.

    Also, lowest quote I have received is $20,980, including destination. Excl. tax & registration. Sounds good, but I was going to offer them or a competing dealership to go to $20,000, incl. destination. Excluding tax & license. Maybe offer $21,000 OTD.

    Should I start offer at $20,000 OTD and go up or just hold steady to $21,000 OTD.

    Thoughts/advice appreciated. Thanks!
  • bshelbshel Posts: 232
    Are you shopping for an EX - and if so, Auto or MT transmission?
  • tigerlilytigerlily Posts: 8
    Of course. Sorry about that. Black CR-V EX. Automatic. Thanks!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Just remember before you make your OTD offer that dealerships have no control over sales tax and license. I would just concentrate on the price of the CRV and ask them what they charge for doc fees.
  • tigerlilytigerlily Posts: 8
    Thanks for the clarification, isellhondas! All along I thought "OTD" included everything. Good to know before I go in and negotiate on Thursday. I will have a few more questions until then...

    Does that seem like a good quote from them? And how much less than what I really want to pay should I start counteroffering? And, you CAN counteroffer some with internet quotes, right?

    (Nobody here in LA? This forum seems to be sleeping right now...)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    It's hard to compare out the door pricing in here when people don't separate out taxes, but the dealer can easily tell you what the OTD price will be for the car you're interested in, including taxes and registration, since the dealer is usually the ones collecting the fees.

    Doc fees shouldn't be over $50, but if you focus on the OTD price, you don't have to haggle the line items.

    You can, and should, counter offer internet prices; it's often useful to collect a few quotes and play the dealers off against each other. One will usually be hungry :-)

    Steve, Host
  • postal40postal40 Posts: 9
    hello fellow CRV members !

    i have been researching for small SUV's for past month . the ones i test drove are RAV4's and CR-V's . i decided on CR-V 2004 AWD EX [ which my dad also thought is better of the two ] . my question for you CR-V members is : should i get extended warranties on CRV ? if so , which ones do you recommend [ based on your CRV experience ] ?

    i thank you and smile !
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You might be interested in the Extended Warranties discussion.

    tidester, host
  • tigerlilytigerlily Posts: 8
    What about the Honda "Summer Clearance." How much "savings" should I really expect at this time of the year? Just a couple of hundred, five hundred, a thousand?
  • tigerlilytigerlily Posts: 8
    If I want to pay $20,000, plus tax and license, how should I negotiate this (if possible) with a pre-approval loan letter from my credit union? What weight does the letter and the amount stated even have? How does this part of the contract/buying process work?

    Should I have the letter say that I am pre-approved for a $20,000 loan (which I am) or for just $14,000 and tell them I am prepared to put down $6000, which is really the way I plan to pay for it. (I thought maybe the $20,000 letter would help me negotiate that particular price, but does it even matter?) Remember that this is the first time that I am going through the dreaded car-purchasing process. Although I feel better prepared thanks to all your discussions.

    Also important--since I am going through my credit union and making a down payment, do the car dealership still need to run my credit??? Just want to be prepared.

    Lastly--is even worth getting the Consumer Reports Wholesale Price at this point? I feel pretty good about all the info I've received from Edmunds.com and its forums.

    Thanks for taking the time to respond, anyone...would really appreciate it!
  • edunnettedunnett Posts: 553
    I get internet quotes and quotes from fleet and internet managers (usually at invoice). You should counter with (and not back away from) at least your lowest offer. For our CR-V purchase I had invoice price offer through our credit union's dealership, invoice offers via email from several area dealerships and an email offer at $200 below invoice good for 2 weeks. I went to the dealership 6 weeks later with his email printed out and didn't let him raise the offer price - saying I came in for THIS price and on my way home I pass 5 other dealerships - I'd like the below invoice pricing or I'll be stopping at those other locations. I got the car for $200 below invoice and only got slightly abused on the trade in value - another show stopper for the sale. I suggest you do the same - demand (very nicely) the price you want and when I shop for a car I want to pay no more than $200 over invoice. Car dealers still make hundreds on the sale by way factory incentives and dealer holdback so don't think Invoice is really what they pay for the car.
    ELissa
  • edunnettedunnett Posts: 553
    1) If I want to pay $20,000, plus tax and license, how should I negotiate this with a pre-approval loan letter from my credit union?

    A: I don't think HOW you pay for the car is relevant when discussing HOW MUCH you will pay. Leave the loan letter and the credit union out of the negotiations. Bring a financial calculator and read all the lines in the paperwork to make sure you are not getting taken somewhere. Always feel like it's ok to walk out and buy the car another day.

    2) Should I have the letter say that I am pre-approved for a $20,000 loan (which I am) or for just $14,000 and tell them I am prepared to put down $6000, which is really the way I plan to pay for it.

    I save the "how I'm going to pay" discussion until after we've worked out what I'm going to pay. Always leave the possibility that you might finance through them dangling in the air. If they think you might finance with them, they might cut you a better deal?

    3)Since I am going through my credit union and making a down payment, do the car dealership still need to run my credit???

    They may still need to do some of this "just in case". I'm sure they've had their fair share of fraudulent checks so they need their own financing as a backup if your check does not go through. Just make sure on the paperwork where they write down any interest rates, that the same rate you have from the credit union or better applies. Another "just in case".

    4) Is even worth getting the Consumer Reports Wholesale Price at this point? I feel pretty good about all the info I've received from Edmunds.com and its forums.

    I go to the dealerships with that printed out. It's always worth it. You don't want to pay more than invoice if you can help it and the wholesale price gives you justification for that and will give you something to refer to during negotiations if they try changing things here and there. And like Steve said, doc fees at $50 are customary - more than that and they are ripping you off. Tax and title they don't have much control over. Destination is always $490. You might as well negotiate the price of the vehicle without all that stuff and try to get it at or below invoice.

    Other advice:
    - I like to not sit down in a dealership until our price is verbally agreed to. But sometimes you just get sick of standing.
    - Always be prepared to walk out if you feel you're not being treated fairly or not getting the price you want.
    - Always read everything before you sign.
    - Always double check your math and their math to make sure it all ads up.
    - I don't bother with the rustproofing, clear coat protection, extended warranty or fabric protection - I think they are all ripoffs but the dealer will most likely try to scare you and convince you that your wonderful new car will rust, stain, chip and fall apart if you don't buy all that stuff. Just keep in mind, it can all be purchased after-market for hundreds less (compare $600 for fabric guard to a $5 can of scotch guard or a $600 rust proofing to $10 touch up paint....)

    Good luck! I live up near San Francisco myself and just bought two new cars (a CR-V and a Subaru Forester) in the last three months at or below invoice so I'm happy to help. Feel free to email me too.

    Elissa
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I don't think a dealer can pull your credit report in the US without your permission (and telling them you are considering dealer financing may be permission). Frequent pulling of the report supposedly can negatively affect your credit score. So I'm reluctant to let mine be pulled.

    It's easy enough to wire transfer funds if the dealer doesn't want to accept your check without checking your credit - I pay my VISA bill that way now from my checking account and it's free at my bank.

    Here's a link: Fair Credit Reporting (FTC)

    Oh, and Forbes has a column this morning about car sales - inventories are high right now and Honda sales are down, so it's a good time to buy. Stick to your guns.

    And you can get wholesale (i.e. invoice) pricing free here, and you can cross check at Kelley for free if you don't believe us. If you insist on spending money, buy an InfoPak instead, LOL.

    Steve, Host
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    But I have no idea what the market is on CRVS or what the availability looks like.

    These are NOT distressed merchandise however in any marketplace. The prevailing market vs. supply will always determine pricing. I do know the So. Calif marketplace can be very hostile.

    A couple of good stores....

    Metro Honda in Montclair...

    Scott Robinson in Torrance

    Costa Mesa Honda...not sure what the store is called.

    I can only say I've met the owners and/or managers of these places and they seem very upfront.

    I'm sure there are other good stores as well.

    There are no "incentives" on CRVS and holdback is not profit.

    Good Luck!
  • postal40postal40 Posts: 9
    You might be interested in the Extended Warranties discussion.

    tidester, host

    thank you for 'extended warranties' link , the info was helpful even they dont relate only to CR-V's ,
    thanks again and ride happy
  • tigerlilytigerlily Posts: 8
    Thanks, you guys, for your input, I am going to digest it while here at work and see if I have any last minute questions.

    Nobody said anything about the price--lowest quote: "$20,900 (incl. destination)+tax and license". Is that good? Should I still start negotiating at $20,000 or start from $19,500. Please advise. If I paid 20,500 (inc. destination) plus tax & license--would that be a good price? (I am using that as my target.)

    Also, any input re: how much the "Clearance" will really affect my "savings". Couple of hundred? Five hundred? 1,000?

    Thanks!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 128,420
    $20,900 is below dealer invoice.. I paid more than that for my identical '02 more than two years ago... YES.. that is a good deal.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • Oh, and Forbes has a column this morning about car sales - inventories are high right now and Honda sales are down, so it's a good time to buy. Stick to your guns.
     


    Steve that Forbes article is from May 18th, not July 28th as you state... unless you posted the wrong link.

    Yo isellhondas, if holdback isn't profit, then what is it? The dealership is getting money back from the manufacturer. Prep, advertising costs, etc are all factored in to the cost of the car. I'm confused!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    The market down there must be tougher that I even thought!

    It's BELOW dealer invoice! What more do you want?

    Hopefully it wasn't a lowball.

    Just watch out for high doc fees.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Over the years, the subject of holdback has been discussed ad nauseum to the point I won't get into it anymore.

    It HELPS pay for flooring and a bit of advertising. It DOES NOT fall to the bottom line as profit.

    In addition to holdback we also have this nasty thing called overhead.

    I don't want or expect my customers to even think about the massive costs it takes to open the doors. Likewise, we really don't like hearing all of the time about how much we "make" from holdback.

    Make sense?
  • matthew633matthew633 Posts: 26
    While I purchased my 2004 CR-V EX Auto in So. California (Buena Park) it was back in Dec. 2003. At that time, the invoice for this model was $20,830 to which I added $490 for destination and deducted $677 for dealer holdback. (Yes, you want to deduct dealer holdback.) So I started negotiating from $20,643 and we agreed on $20,793 + TTL.

    My out the door cost was $22,640. No extras purchased.

    I suggest you go at the end of the month, make it clear to the salesperson you intend to buy a car that day, take the paperwork to back you up, and be prepared to go to another dealer if necessary. Good luck and best regards.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    My daily news alerts sometimes do that to me and I sometimes forget to check the dates of the articles, like I did with that older Forbes column. Good eye - you'll do fine reviewing the fine print in the F&I box!

    Steve, Host
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 128,420
    "I suggest you go at the end of the month, make it clear to the salesperson you intend to buy a car that day, take the paperwork to back you up, and be prepared to go to another dealer if necessary."

    This is good advice for buying any car. You will never know how low a price you can get, until your offer is accepted. All the shopping in the world and asking for quotes won't find that out for you. To get the lowest price, be ready to buy and make an offer.

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • tcasboytcasboy Posts: 214
    tigerlilly: You can save yourself a lot of time by not negotiating at all. Pick the price you are willing to pay (keeping in mind all the other advice you have been given) and make that offer to the salesperson for the vehicle you want. If they don't take the offer (and using your example somewhere between $20,500 and $21,000 plus tax and tags seems like the amount you were contemplating) then just walk away. Give them a phone number or email where you can be reached, tell them how long you will keep your offer on the table, and walk away. Make sure you explain that your offer is a bottom line number after whatever fees, blah blah blah, they want to throw in, only tax and tag can be added. If the offer is reasonable, they will likely call back within a day or two and take the offer. Then, be sure they don't monkey with the numbers when you sit down to sign the papers, avoid the added warranty and insurance things they will try to sell you, and be on your way to enjoy your new car! If not, try another dealer or up the offer a couple of hundred bucks and wait again. This method will save you time and aggravation going back and forth with several salespeople and their "manager".

    Good luck!
  • Elissa,

    You said,

    You don't want to pay more than invoice if you can help it and the wholesale price gives you justification for that and will give you something to refer to during negotiations if they try changing things here and there. .....ou might as well negotiate the price of the vehicle without all that stuff and try to get it at or below invoice."

    Are you saying that you purchased your most recent cars at the dealer's invoice price, the wholesale price, or something in between?

    TIA
  • ilene1ilene1 Posts: 2
    Mojave Mist. I received 3 email quotes for 17,900. I managed to get the large Honda dealership in Cerritos to bring their price down to 17,700. I think the price is okay. The other dealerships were not willing to bargain unless I faxed them a printed quote with a lower price. Autoland says 17,556 on the web for the car but cannot deliver their web price. They could only offer 18,400.
  • ilene1ilene1 Posts: 2
    Mojave Mist. I received 3 email quotes for 17,900. I managed to get the large Honda dealership in Cerritos to bring their price down to 17,700. I think the price is okay. The other dealerships were not willing to bargain unless I faxed them a printed quote with a lower price. Autoland says 17,556 on the web for the car but cannot deliver their web price. They could only offer 18,400.
Sign In or Register to comment.