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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Okay I have an update:

    I heard the clicking/ticking sound again. Usually when the car is at a standstill it doesn't occur, only when it's moving/accelerating. Yesterday, I heard it while it was stopped. So I pulled over and did a little listening under the hood.

    I'm about 80% certain the sound is coming from right around the top/rear of the engine. Looks like it's coming from what I believe is the air injection system. Either that or its coming from the headers of the rear bank of cylinders.

    Anyone have any thoughts on what this intermittent clicking could be? Again, it stops once the engine has been running for about 10 minutes. Thanks.
  • jayzcatjayzcat Member Posts: 2
    I was hoping someone could provide some insights. I just picked-up my new 2005 Mazda 6S on Sunday. Upon returning home from work on Monday evening, I noticed some fluid in the driveway where I parked the car the car the car the night before. Last night and this night, I put the car in the garage with some paper underneath the far front of the vehicle and noticed a small amount of a watery orange color fluid had leaked onto the paper. It looks like it might be antifreeze. Has anyone seen this and if so, what was the problem, how was it fixed. I'll be speaking with the dealer tomorrow. Obviously, I'm concerned that this would happen with a brand new vehicle. I had been driving a 12 year old car and thought (and still hope) that my vehicle problems were behind me. Thanks.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Well, I took my car in to have it looked at and could have slapped myself.

    Basically, the service manager said that I didn't have enough oil in the engine... was about 2-1/2 quarts low. The clicking had to do with not enough oil pressure. Remember, the clicking was only happening when the car was cold and would stop after about 10 mins of running. Oil flows slower when the engine's cold. So it's logical that this was the problem considering that the oil would be flowing more freely once the engine and oil were properly warmed.

    Now, I like to think I take really good care of my cars following the guidelines laid out by the manual and following regular maintenance intervals. It's been almost exactly 5000 miles since my last oil change. My error was assuming that the oil level stayed the same between oil changes.

    Apparantly you still go through about 1 quart every 1500 or so miles according to the service manager. So I should be topping off the oil between changes if I don't get the oil changed every 3000 miles. Funny since Mazda recommends that you can go between 5000 and 7500 between oil changes and doesn't mention refilling the oil in between changes.

    Anyhow, the car sounded great when I picked it up (man was I glad to get the 6 back - not that I hated having the Mazda3 as a loaner, but the 6 is just so much smoother). The test will be tomorrow AM when I start it up after having it sit in the cold overnight.

    Moral of the story: if you don't do an oil change every 3000, make sure the crankcase is full.

    Sorry, one last thing: anyone know if I've done any real damage to the engine by running 2-1/2 quarts low? Ran it that way for about 350 miles or so.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    "1 quart every 1500 miles"?

    I don't think there's a car built past 1980 that requires 1 quart every 1500 miles. That seems a little much to me.

    I've got 4000 miles on my 6S, and the oil level at my 3000 mile oil change was fine. I'm sure that some engines use up a little oil during break-in, but 2 1/2 quarts? You might want to check for leaks, or maybe consider a new place to get oil changes.

    As for possible damages, the ticking sound causes me to be a little concerned, but friends tell me I'm a little paranoid when it comes to my car!
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    There is NO REASON for your car to be losing any oil between 5000 mile oil changes. I wouldn't be worried about 1/2 quart after 5000 miles, but 2.5 quarts! Something else is wrong with your car. Get it checked under warranty.

    BTW, I will check my oil tonight :-) I too "assume" it is fine and you know what they say about assumptions...
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Not only would I get it checked out, but I'd take it to a different Mazda dealer and service department. No way any new car uses that much oil, and it can't be normal. My old '93 Accord doesn't do that. Maybe someone at the shop forgot to tighten everything back up after your last oil change . . . ? Something isn't right.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • jayzcatjayzcat Member Posts: 2
    I was hoping someone could provide some insights. I just picked-up my new 2005 Mazda 6S on Sunday. Upon returning home from work on Monday evening, I noticed some fluid in the driveway where I parked the car the car the car the night before. Last night and this night, I put the car in the garage with some paper underneath the far front of the vehicle and noticed a small amount of a watery orange color fluid had leaked onto the paper. It looks like it might be antifreeze. Has anyone seen this and if so, what was the problem, how was it fixed. I'll be speaking with the dealer tomorrow. Obviously, I'm concerned that this would happen with a brand new vehicle. I had been driving a 12 year old car and thought (and still hope) that my vehicle problems were behind me. Thanks.
  • rattlerrattler Member Posts: 7
    LOOSE TRIM - The plastic trim piece around the hand brake on my 6i is loose at the back left hand corner (as viewed sitting in the driver seat). I can easily move this piece up and down from that corner. Could someone check on their 6 and let me know if this is normal? If not, this is probably the cause of terrible rattles in my interior.

    LOOSE BRAKES - My dealer machined my front rotors to take care of my car shaking when braking per a TSB. But my brakes seem "loose" now. Earlier, the car used to start slowing down when I applied slight force on the brake pedal. Now the pedal seems to depress a lot more before the car starts to slow down. Is this normal after machining the rotors? Can anything be done to make the brakes feel "tighter"? Dealer says nothing more can be done.

    Appreciate any help on either problem.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    My hand brake trim is not loose, in fact it's rather tightly secured to the handle and I can't move it around at all. I've only had the car for a week, but I would not consider trim looseness to be normal. If you're still under warranty and don't like the way the trim is holding up, you shouldn't have any qualms about asking the dealer to fix it.

    I've had brake rotors machined several times in the past, usually I remove/reinstall them myself, and I have never experienced a "loose" feel to the brakes afterward. Each time I've had it done, such a small amount of the rotor surface was removed by the brake lathe that I can't imagine it could have possibly made a noticeable difference in how "tight" the brakes felt.
  • rattlerrattler Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, I guess I wasn't referring to the trim piece on the hand brake itself, but the plastic trim that surrounds it (and the cupholder as well). I would appreciate it if you could check that as well.
  • 03mz03mz Member Posts: 3
    i have an 03 mazda6 5 spd manual V6 that now has approx 22000 miles on it and my clutch has gone out. The car is currently at the shop and all they can tell me right now is that it could be normal wear and tear and that they dont belive that it is covered under my warrenty. Humm Normal wear and tear that at 22k miles that sounds more like a contradiction than anything else. Ive never lost a clutch at 22k miles ave any of you. Also they are trying to tell me that it will cost $1200.00 to get it fixed. Any suggestions
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    I had 100k miles on the original clutch of my 1992 Honda Civic EX before I sold it to buy my 04M6s, which (unfortunately) is an AT. 22k sounds soon for "normal wear and tear". Do you have another dealer nearby?
  • 03mz03mz Member Posts: 3
    yea there is another dealer in town however this is the dealer i bought it from, and its suppose to be the best one in town.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    No way can this be normal wear and tear. I have owned 2 previous MT Mazdas, and each clutch lasted over 100,000 miles-- and on one of them I taught my (then) teenage son how to drive a stick shift. Talk about rough wear! If your dealer is unhelpful I would talk to someone at Mazda directly -- a regional rep.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • 03mz03mz Member Posts: 3
    they seem to say so and that it could also be from over use of the clutch. Im still unsure of where they are coming up with this crap. Ive owned six other manual tran cars with in the last 9 years and have never lost a clutch and have put more than 22k miles on them all (some up to 50k miles) and never had a problem with any of them. So i am just waiting for them to come back and say that it is overuseage of the clutch when the fact of the matter is that most of those miles are highway miles and stop and go miles, we'll see what they have to say then. Also i have already contacted consumer relations in CA with reguards to this issue
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    That's an unfortunate response from the dealer on your clutch issue. Unless you spend all day every day in stop-and-go traffic and really ride the clutch excessively I don't see how you could be overusing it. If you know what you're doing with a MT and don't abuse the car, this most definitely should not be considered normal wear and tear.

    Clutch problems seem to be like brake problems for dealers. Easy to play the wear and tear card, tell the customer they abused the car too much or that the conditions they're driving in are too harsh and weasel out of doing any warranty work. I always pray that I don't have premature brake or clutch failures in my vehicles after I buy them because I've heard too many stories like this.

    Keep after Mazda, and good luck.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    Question: Doesn't the dealer get paid by Mazda Corporate if it is a warranty issue? Or do they have to jump through excesive hoops? Or do they make more profit if they convince you to pay for it out of your pocket? I suspect the latter... probably less paperwork for them.
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    I'm not totally sure how Mazda's warranty reimbursement works, but at Chrysler, the dealer performs the work, enters it into Chrysler's warranty system and then gets reimbursed for it. The way DCX checks if it was in fact an honest claim is to get the dealer to send the old part back to Chrysler's warranty center in Pontiac. The engineers there analyze the replaced part or sometimes they'll call in the supplier to see if the dealer diagnosed the issue correctly. Its not a very good system and it costs the suppliers tons of money because in my line of work, the dealers will treat almost every part replacement as a warranty claim and my company gets blamed for it and we are forced to pay Chrysler for issues that aren't even our fault.
  • civiceater4uciviceater4u Member Posts: 7
    the problem with the clutch is something to do with mazda. ive talked to alot of people and read alot of boards about problems with the mazda6 clutch. mazda knows theres a problem with the clutch system the have in the 6 and try everything to deny it or put the blame on the customers saying its normal wear and tear. i have problems with it. when its cold out she doesnt like to shift and when i put her into gear she doesnt feel all the way in. a clutch goin at 22k is not normal and its a manufacturing problem. if you need more info check out older messages in these boards.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I don't know what Mazda does, but I've always heard that dealers are compensated by manufacturers for warranty work. I wouldn't be surprised if work paid for by the customer is more profitable, though.
  • bob222bob222 Member Posts: 3
    If your brake pedal travels too far before the brakes start to slow the car it sounds like there may be a bit of air in the brake lines. The dealer should bleed the lines. They may have caused the problem while taking the brakes apart. It's rare that it happens.
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Member Posts: 37
    Have 04 wagon. Love the car BUT! has slight front end pull to left. Dealers (2) said no caster or camber adjustments.WHAT! I have 33 years experience working on all makes, and never heard of such a thing. Rotated tires front to back, no change. Rotated side to side. no change. Presently running 28psi in right and 32psi in left. Helps somewhat, but does not cure problem. Anybody else having this problem? Any feedback will be appreciated. TIA
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Remembered to check my console trim again today, but that piece is not loose on my car either. Your problem could be as simple as a loose/missing clip or screw, but the console may need to be removed to make the fix.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Did you try a search on this topic? There are several posts describing pulling problems which wheel alignment and tire rotation apparently did not resolve. I seem to remember someone mentioning re-torqued front subframe fasteners as a possible solution.

    My '04 wagon doesn't really pull unless there are ruts or an unusually steep angle in the road surface I'm on, but for some reason my steering wheel does tend to be just a bit off center (counter-clockwise) when I'm traveling straight on a level surface. I just assumed it wasn't perfectly centered when it was installed.

    At any rate, given the alignment problems described on this board, I plan to watch my tread wear VERY closely.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I had the same thing on my 04 sdn.My steering wheel was off center from day 1 and 2 dealers told me my alignment was on spec.What finally was done was when the dealer was fixing a problem with the clock spring in the steering column,they pulled off the wheel and placed it back on centered.That's what had to be done on my car to get it centered.Pretty retarded.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Good to hear that story, it reinforces my theory that the wheel just wasn't put on straight. I've had other cars that were the same way. Don't know if it bothers me enough to leave it at the shop, though.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    Mazda probably won't do anything about it unless you have a related fix.They'll just tell you there is nothing they can do and its within specs.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Probably true. I'm too busy enjoying the car to notice it most of the time anyway!
  • dhankesdhankes Member Posts: 8
    Jayzcat:

    From your description of the fluid color, it IS the antifreeze. Mazda installs the car with orange antifreeze--versus the green type that you may be used to. At any rate, I own an '03, and had the same problem. It took some getting down on my hands and knees--and about 30 minutes of investigative work with a flashlight--but I eventually identified the problem: the right lower corner of my radiator developed a hairline crack and was leaking fluid. I took it in for warranty service and they replaced the radiator with a new one--thus taking care of the problem. You might have the same thing going on.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    You've got the right idea.
  • troybentroyben Member Posts: 42
    Have an 03 Mazda6 with 15K miles. Live in Chicago area-since it has gotten cold & started getting snow (along with road salt), my brakes have been squealing like crazy when the car's cold. Once it warms up, squealing stops. Is this normal, or does it warrant trip to dealer service? Thanks
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Too much dust on the brake pads and rotors can cause squealing, which may only occur during the first few stops in damp and/or cold weather. Other owners on this forum have observed that the Mazda6 pads produce quite a lot of brake dust, so that could be your problem.

    If pad dust is the culprit, your dealer should be willing to do a quick cleaning of the brakes. You can also do it yourself with a spray can of brake cleaner from an auto parts store. Just be mindful of where the runoff is going to end up, because it will leave quite a mess.
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    i have a 04 mada6 for just over a year now...

    1st thing, i drive a stick shift and im wondering do any of you guys/girls have problems changing gears when its cold outside?

    2nd thing, when you guys turn hard left or right or all the way until the wheel stops and when you put the brakes up does it make any kind of sound? when i turn hard left or right, it sounds like im a bus stopping...

    3rd thing, the dealer told me that i should put Synthetic motor oil in my car if i drive it alot, so i did and the bottle told me 6 months or 14000k's before next oil change and it cost me $60 canadian money so now mazda dealer told me now i still have to follow their rules, i mean the mazda Warranty on it... ppl synthetic oil is the best oil you can get... why do i have to??? i called and went down to other dealers ships like ford, GM and others, they wouldve told me to put synthetic oil in my car if i bought one of them...

    can anyone help me here...
    Im thinking driving to mazda canada to [non-permissible content removed] about it.. im just wondering if it happen to you..

    thanks
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    1st - Yes, my wagon w/5sp MT does the same thing. However, I've not used a MT (Mazda or otherwise) that didn't get at least a bit more difficult to shift in cold weather. My 626 also had a 5sp MT, and was too cranky for my taste when temps were below 20 degrees. I changed it over to Redline synthetic MT-90 gear oil at 24K miles, and that improved cold weather shifting quite a bit.

    2nd - Haven't experienced that one before. Are you saying that when you release the brake pedal it makes noise? When you say it sounds like a "bus stopping", what sort of noise is it?

    3rd - The synthetic oil issue always seems to generate more questions than answers. I always change my own oil, and use synthetic, but haven't gotten to my first change on the Mazda6 yet. When I had my 626 I changed the synthetic every 6 months, which for me worked out to roughly 6K miles between changes. For the 626, that was right in line with the mainenance schedule for normal operating conditions (for extreme conditions, a 3K oil change interval was specified). For some reason, manufacturers don't distinguish between synthetic and non-synthetic oil in the maintenance schedules. Personally I wouldn't be comfortable going 14K miles between changes, and I'm not sure how Mazda would react if you had warranty work done on the engine and they knew that. My father got into a battle once with the Chevy dealer who provides the extended warranty on his truck, because the shop where he has his oil changed couldn't find just one of his oil changes in their computer. The dealer used that against him when he tried to get a leaky intake valve problem (a known issue with his truck) covered under the warranty.

    I wouldn't mess with the recommended oil change intervals much if I were you, but if someone at Mazda ends up telling you it's ok, better get it in writing. Synthetic oil is rather expensive, and worth it in my opinion, but paying for major engine work that should be covered under warranty because you didn't change the oil frequently enough would be much worse. You better do a thorough job of covering your back before going ahead with your own maintenance intervals.
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    1st ok i will change my gear oil to Redline synthetic... getting cold here now and 2 days ago i was going to work, started the car and left it for 5 mins and then i roll down my drive way and tryed to put it in first gear well i had to wait 10 more mins to even move the car.. and was late for work...

    2nd no not release the brake.. when i apply the brake on when i am turning at the same time, like im going to park.. this odd noise happens.. it sounds like Hmmmm have you ever watched nightmare on elm street with freddy?? well you know when he takes his knifes from his glove and starts rubbing on the choke board.. that really bad sound what mostly ppl hate.. yea that what happens...

    3rd well the manager ASKED me i should put that kind of oil in her, so i just bought the stuff and when i had my next oil change they put it in their..... no no no i wouldn't do my own maintenance thats why i got extended warranty on it...

    but thanks for the reply!! it helped alot!!
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Sometimes (rather infrequently) my tranny refuses to shift into 1st or reverse on the first attempt when it's just standing still. Backing the lever off into neutral and releasing the clutch quickly then trying the shift again always works for me. But the Redline did help my 626 shift more smoothly in all conditions, especially cold weather. I'll be putting it into the Mazda6 as soon as my garage warms up in the spring.

    Sorry, I misunderstood your problem with the brakes. I seem to remember someone on the forum talking about brake noise or judder that occurred while braking and turning at low speed (like in parking lots), try a search and you might find it. If I come across it I'll let you know.

    Whether you do your own oil changes or not, my point on the maintenance intervals was that synthetic oil or not, Mazda is probably still going to claim that you need to change it every 3K or 6K miles. If you decide to ask about that, please let us know what they say.
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    i found it but the thing is do i really need to clean my brakes everyday... man i dont even do it to my bike.. i mostly do it once a week but with a car.. omg...

    do you think that mazda put cheap brakes on and you think i can get better brakes to put on to stopt his noise??

    Too much dust on the brake pads and rotors can cause squealing, which may only occur during the first few stops in damp and/or cold weather. Other owners on this forum have observed that the Mazda6 pads produce quite a lot of brake dust, so that could be your problem.

    If pad dust is the culprit, your dealer should be willing to do a quick cleaning of the brakes. You can also do it yourself with a spray can of brake cleaner from an auto parts store. Just be mindful of where the runoff is going to end up, because it will leave quite a mess.
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    Yea slickdog i think i am going to mazda canada week today (dec 10th) so to [non-permissible content removed] about comstmer servers because i have faxed them 3 times and call them, leave a messages on their phone 4 times and havent got in return call, all this been happening month and a half... this is unblievable..

    Yea i will tell you what happens when i get back from mazda about the oil, my gears and my brakes..... im sure everyone would like to know...
  • rlgrlg Member Posts: 12
    I've had manual shift Hondas, Toyotas, Mitsus and they were all hard to shift in freezing temps. Life gets real interesting at 20 below. Double clutching as suggested above helps. So does moving the shifter around in neutral a bit b4 engaging 1st. In any case, you need to be very deliberate until things warm up. I've heard the Redline suggested several times. I may give that a try.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Yeah, I'm hoping my car isn't going to always need frequent wheel cleaning, but the dust is really starting to accumulate after just a couple weeks.

    I'm not sure it means the brakes are cheap, just seems to me that certain pads produce more dust than others. There used to be asbestos pads and they didn't make much dust, but you can't get those anymore. I think there was some discussion a while back on this forum about replacement pads to solve this problem, but I don't remember if anyone made recommendations on what to get.

    Good luck w/Mazda, I've not had any customer service gripes with them yet, but my dealer is pretty good.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Ah yes, double clutching. That's what I was trying to think of. Would have saved me a few words!

    20 below? That's too cold for me. I'm miserable when it's 20 above. 20 below must turn your gear oil into molasses!
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    thanks u 2

    BUT it doesnt only happen to 1st gear tho.. sometimes it happens to 2nd and 3rd as well...
  • rlgrlg Member Posts: 12
    "20 below? That's too cold for me. I'm miserable when it's 20 above. 20 below must turn your gear oil into molasses!"
    Yes. & the engine makes ugly banging noises when starting at -20. Syn oil really helps the engine on cold start, I'm expecting it to do the same for the tranny. I've only got 3K miles on the car. I wonder if I should wait b4 changing the tranny fluid.

    "BUT it doesnt only happen to 1st gear tho.. sometimes it happens to 2nd and 3rd as well"
    Yes. Until things warm up, the gearbox is real stiff. All MTX are this way to some degree. You need to be very deliberate until the fluid warms up. You shouldn't be pushing a car with a cold engine anyway.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    every Tuesday we have have a chat based on a Mazda platform (although we do tend to wander to all kinds of subjects) where you can meet and greet your fellow forum members. Hope to see YOU there tonight!

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    Host
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    The MAZDA chat is on TONIGHT. Stop in for a holiday visit! Check out the schedule
  • troybentroyben Member Posts: 42
    Beginning Tues morning, when I use the key fob for my 6 to lock/unlock the doors, the front headlights/rear taillights don't blink. Thought it was the original fob I was using, but when I tried the backup set, same thing. Probably punishment for wasting my time at the Bulls game Monday night, but anybody have this happen? Any ideas?
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    This happened to me once or twice , but I think it was because the trunk was not closed (it was a while ago).
  • eromitlaberomitlab Member Posts: 24
    This may have been covered ages ago.

     

    My wife got a 2004 Mazda6 wagon, stick shift back in May. About two months in, the "check engine" light went on. We brought it in and the dealer guys said it had something to do with a defective throttle part that was back-ordered. They reset the light and we got the car back.

     

    About two weeks later the light came back on. The next day my wife was driving on a highway when all the lights on the dashboard suddenly illuminated, followed by the car's engine cutting out and the car dying. She coasted to the side of the road. The car started again, but at that point in rush hour traffic, she opted to call a tow truck.

     

    The dealer replaced the throttle part and we haven't had a problem...until yesterday when the "check engine" light came back on. Does this sound even remotely familiar to anyone? I am beginning to think about looking into the Lemon Law for Maryland...

     

    --Bill Warren

      Silver Spring, MD
  • troybentroyben Member Posts: 42
    That was it. It was the trunk-after I opened/closed it-all back to normal. Thanks!
  • tweet651983tweet651983 Member Posts: 32
    Just purchased an 04S demo and noticed that the beige/tan rear seat is looking a little rough. I'll go back to the dealer to see what they will do about this. Two questions: (1) Can they replace the fabric without replacing the entire seat? (2) Anyone have any recent experience with this and how Mazda has handled it. It does not appear that a service bulletin has been issued. The build date is February, 2004
  • flypaperflypaper Member Posts: 11
    I've also experienced the "bus stopping" noise when my wheel is turned all the way. It's not that loud -- maybe more like a large van stopping. ;-) It just started happening on my '03 6S with about 20k miles. I'd describe it as more of a groan.
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