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The dealer fixed it under warranty. They said it is stuck on with 2 sided tape and it came loose.
All this is leading up to what happened with 4200 miles on the ticker. Both front tires are now bald on the outside where the lugs used to be and the rear tires are worn down evenly to the wear bars. With the snow and salt and rain we have had in New Jersey since the end of January - there is no way I could have worn out tires that quickly. The dealership has the car - I have a wonderfully inept loaner. Looking forward to getting a chance to drive the car when all four tires aren't fighting each other.
Are you referring to a chirping noise coming from the clutch when letting it out too slow and giving it a lot of gas? Mine makes that noise occasionally after being stuck in traffic on a steep hill. My old Civic did it all the time but never slipped, neither does the 6's, so I didn't bother having it looked at. Not too worried about the 6's clutch either but if they can fix it I'm going to have them do it even though it's a lease. At least it will be documented.
Speak about premature wear! If the tires were mounted improperly or were misaligned I can see how they would wear, but this seems much more serious. Did you buy the car new? Was the car involved in an accident? You may want to get a second opinion from another garage if your dealer does not provide a reasonable explanation.
I have an '04 6s with manual tranny, and I average about 22-25 MPG, 70% highway driving. Granted, the manual gives me a couple MPG here and there, but if I stay within the EPA limits, I figure I'm doing okay.
The car does need a little while to "break in" as well, so it will take about 2000 or so miles to get better mileage. I averaged about 3-4 MPG less when I bought my car (120 Miles on the ODO), but it slowly increased.
A few other suggestions:
Try keeping the tires at 35-36 PSI, this will decrease rolling resistance a little, giving you an extra MPG or two, and make sure you check the pressure often. I usually check it every gas fill-up. Checking it once a month, as the "experts" recommend, works as well.
Also, don't "gun" the pedal when accelerating from a stop or onto a highway. Granted, it's not as fun, but it will cut down on fuel use as well.
Use the cruise control as much as possible, but only if it's safe to do so. Keeping a consistent speed on the highway will also help mileage. (I'd recommend slowing down on the highway as well, but if you're like me, you'd get eaten alive in rush-hour!)
Good luck!
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
I've had my 5-door Mazda6 S (V6, 5-speed manual) for 3 months (4,000 miles) and it's been averaging about 27 mpg (60 percent highway, generally @65mph or less, 40 percent city). Early on the mileage was only about 25 mpg (before the engine was 'broken in'), but on one recent tankful (nearly all highway) I hit 30 mpg.
I keep track of each fill-up and mileage for each tankful in a small notebook, along with oil changes, tire rotation, etc. I realize I'm the exception rather than the rule on that, and most people won't go to that extreme. I tend to drive with a pretty light foot on the gas, I don't rev the engine to really high rpms unless necessary (merging onto the interstate, etc), haven't used the a/c much yet (live in Colorado), keep the tires inflated, and I tend to drive within 5-10 miles of the speed limit. No really big secrets.
But it is fun, once in awhile, to let loose and really use the car's handling and acceleration abilities to their fullest! I just don't do it every day. :-)
Then again, the variables are endless...
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Google did not reveal much on these codes, anyone have better info? Thanks!
U0121
U0155
U0100
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
Now with a new set of tires and a four wheel alignment the wagon continues to pull to the left. Not as bad as before but enough to notice when driving more than a few miles. I couldn't believe that the service dept. actually thought I had swapped the tires with another set just to get new ones. The sales manager set them straight that I had been complaining since day 1 that something was not right with the car.
Now at 4500 miles not only does the car still pull to the left but the CEL came on this morning on the way to work. It is 4:30pm now still no response from the service manager who I called at 8am this morning. The service dept. scheduler doesn't have a loaner for me until next week. Guess I'll be driving with the CEL on until then.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Has anyone noticed a similar noise from their Mazda6's? I'm really PO'd at my dealer right now, so I haven't wanted to take it in for a checkup.
1. turn off the radio
2. press and hold the "seek"-down button
3. press and hold the "5" button until a beep confirms the setting
from here on out u should be beep free
My manual tranny also feels a bit "crunchy" at times, but only when the weather and the transmission are cold. I may replace the oil with synthetic over the summer and see how it does next fall. The 5-spd manual in my 626 behaved much better in the cold with synthetic.
I would be interested to hear of anyone's experience using synthetic oil in/for a manual transmission. I started using Mobil 1 in my 3.0 liter V6 at 3000 miles (after discussing it extensively with the service and parts managers at the Mazda dealer where I bought the car). And so far so good. I've never used synthetic before but my dad's used it for a number of years in his vehicles and highly recommended it. Anyone using synthetic in a manual transmission? What weight? Thanks!
I also used Redline MT-90 in my 626 for roughly 2 years, and it made a noticeable difference in shifting when the transmission was cold at first use of the day, especially in cold winter weather.
You need to be careful selecting MT oil, as some vehicles like the 626 (don't know about the Mazda6 yet) have brass or bronze synchros and GL-5 oils (like Mobil1 synth gear lube) have additives which apparently shortens their lives significantly. That's why I ended up with the Redline for my 626. It's a GL-4 oil and is supposed to be safe for use with brass/bronze transmission components.
A word of warning, it only turns off the beeps from the radio controls. The HVAC controls still beep, but since I only use the ACC, it doesn't bother me much.
Now my wife can't tell anymore if I slowly turn up the radio from the steering wheel controls.
O Happy day!
it should work for you as it's worked for everyone who's tried it over at a different message board.
Make sure the radio is off. hold seek down and 5 simultaneously till you get a confirmation beep...about 3 seconds or so.
there you go...
(But why bother?)
:-)
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere