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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gweedostylegweedostyle Member Posts: 2
    in addition to this, your correct, maybe there is a short somewhere as well that set off the sensors....but the point of my thread is my car stalled....im not to worried about about the TCS b/c i knew i had traction and my handling of the car was fine....but the thing of the gears and the kickback....and then i stalled...i mean the car is only 7 months old...my car should not be stalling i dont care in what condition, ya know? ive been at work all day i havent called my dealer yet...im actually going to call before i leave work around 5pm EST....see what they say...ive been busy all day and really couldnt call

    ok just got off the phone with the dealer service dept. explained to him of what happened and his lovely answer was "we dont know we have to see it first".........dont you just love dealerships? so i made an appointment for next week for when im on vacation...and they have to "look at it"
  • smooshsmoosh Member Posts: 2
    Big shock, the dealer has had it for 2 days and they have no idea what is wrong with it. They can't replicate the problem and basically said it was driver error.

    So ridiculous.

    Please post again if any of you find a solution.

    Thanks!
  • hoyaonehoyaone Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to the "crumpling" noise question? This is now happening on my M6 Wagon, and driving me nuts. Two different dealer service departments have said this is "normal!" Thanks for any info.
  • jayrilesjayriles Member Posts: 2
    my cd player skips at the slightest bump.. does anyone else do this?
    also, i have a pebble colored exterior...it seems like the front fender and rear bumper color is a little off from the body of the car....is this because they are fiberglass and the body is metal? lastly, my beige interior has many water spots from raindrops that enter when i am getting in. the water dries to leave unsightly spots......any help would be appreciated!
  • jayrilesjayriles Member Posts: 2
    it's an in dash one-disc changer....it really annoys me
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    For the CD player, I suggest you find a CD/DVD cleaner disk. Clean the player a couple of times, and it may help. If not, take it to the dealer. It is a warranty item.

    The different shades of paint are because of the material of the part underneath. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do about that...
  • 03mazdas03mazdas Member Posts: 1
    I'm having A/C problems. The 3 vents near the drivers side are blowing cold air and the 2 near the passenger side are blowing warm air. I took my car to Mazda and they said that is normal. I've had the car since 2003 and this just stating happening a month ago. The car doesn't cool down with the 2 vents blowing warm air. I was amazed when the dealer said this was OK. What could be the problem?
  • bluem6ibluem6i Member Posts: 77
    Wow. My 2005 6i is just the opposite. The 2 left vents blow warmer air than the other 3. I am going to report it when i go in for my first oil change.

    I'm having A/C problems. The 3 vents near the drivers side are blowing cold air and the 2 near the passenger side are blowing warm air. I took my car to Mazda and they said that is normal. I've had the car since 2003 and this just stating happening a month ago. The car doesn't cool down with the 2 vents blowing warm air. I was amazed when the dealer said this was OK. What could be the problem?
  • garlandinogarlandino Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 6 Manumatic. It has approximately 22k and I am bringing it in for the 3rd time to have the pads and rotors replaced!!!!! The rotors continue to warp. They tell me Mazda just is not putting good brakes on the car. Do I have any recourse????? I have learned to live with the annoying squeaks and rattles!!!!!
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    I have taken my car in three times now with only 9000 miles. The first time was for faulty brake pads, rotors, and calipers. The second time was because the rear window was not sealed properly and a glare was building up inside the window. I just took my car in now for a faulty transmission, and when I got it back the problem seems to be worse. I just hope that Mazda will finally get its stuff together and deal with these problems, since a lot of these seem to be an issue for many MZ6 owners.
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    Wanted to post this experience I had with the Michelin Pilot MXM4's that are standard on the Mazda6S: Unkowingly, I had run over a utility knife that lodged part of the blade in the tire, after stopping to visit a friend noticed the tire looked a little low, than a few hours later left and forgot to check the tire again. On the highway, the tire lost enough air to flatten and before I could pull over the sidewall blew out in 2 spots, about 3 in. long each. Although this could possibly happen to a variety of tire sizes/brands, I am a bit concerned that the Pilot disentegrated so quickly. There just isn't much sidewall material there (hence, the "slamming" those tires give when hitting potholes); so please beware if you have the Pilots and don't drive them with ANY slow leaks!
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    You intentionally drove on a tire after it had inexplicably and suddenly lost air, and now you want to blame the tire for losing more air and disintegrating? That's pretty funny. :)
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Unkowingly, I had run over a utility knife that lodged part of the blade in the tire ... a few hours later ... On the highway, the tire lost enough air to flatten and before I could pull over the sidewall blew out in 2 spots, about 3 in. long each.

    Did you try pulling out the part of the blade that got lodged in the tire?
    In my limited experience I have found that removing the object that punctured the tire is less safe than leaving it; the nail or other object temporarily seals the hole.

    Did you think because the leak was slow that you could drive on the highway?
    Problem is a slow leak may be more serious. Plus you increase the risk to yourself and others by driving at highway speeds with highway traffic surrounding you. Glad to hear that you lived to tell the tale!
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    If you read the post fully, I said I forgot the tire had possibly lost air- not intentionally drove on it. I've been driving for 32 years, have owned over 20 cars, and don't drive in an unsafe manner, ever. I've had flats with other tires, on the highway, in the past, and they didn't blow sidewalls in that manner. Had I remembered about the low air, I certainly would have changed the tire before driving the vehicle- those Pilots cost $200.ea and I ain't rich!
  • eswjongeswjong Member Posts: 6
    Hi All,

    Just wondering what products you'd recommend for the following issues:

    Removing light scratches on the instrument console. I bought my M6 used and the previous owner left a few marks by the shifter.

    Cleaning and protecting the leather interior.

    Also, I live in Canada where we drive in snow half of the year. Any recommendations on what tires and wheels I should get? Should I keep with 17" or if I go to 16" will the odometer and speedometer give me the right numbers? Should I just get the tires or should I switch out the tires and wheels.

    Thanks!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Should I keep with 17" or if I go to 16" will the odometer and speedometer give me the right numbers? Should I just get the tires or should I switch out the tires and wheels.

    The choice for some people is based on cost and availability; the price of 16" will likely be cheaper than the 17". The speedometer variance is slight between a 16" and 17". Winter rims + tires are easier to install and the steel rims will save wear on your alloys. I've used winter tires + rims for 3 years and highly recommend them.

    in Canada where we drive in snow half of the year
    I suppose that depends where in Canada. Typically I drive about 4 months on my winter tires here in Ottawa; once March rolls around I count the days until the switch back to summer tires.
  • sepang6sepang6 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2004 6 Automatic; I purchased my car in July 2004; starting having problems with the brake moan; Brought it to the dealer in Sep 04; This replaced the pads and rotors. I continued to bring in for the same problem about 5 times. In Sep 05 (14611 miles), they told me that my Front Brakes were below 25% and that I would have to pay, because the one year warranty was up. They also told me that it would correct the problem with the brake pedal (squeeking and it just felt funny when you pressed on the brake pedal after driving the car after 15 miles. I raised H!ll. I called Mazda Corp explained the situation to them, needless to say, I did not have to pay. Well two days later, same issue with brake pedal. I called Mazda Corp and they opened a ticket and told me to bring it to the dealer when the problem occurs, so that the Techs can diagnose. Well I did so, in the middle of Sep 05, car was in the shop for two day.. Brake Booster, brake boot and other major repairs was done. Well, in Oct 05 at 15000 miles, my Starter went they decide to change battery but wanted me to pay 25 %. I called Mazda Corp again. Well, 3 days later they had to replace the Fan module. The next day, I called to inquire about NJ LEMON LAW. I received the paper work the next day. I sent all the paperwork out in three days. One week and 4 day later, I was notified that they have filed a lawsuit against Mazda Corp. I had my 15000 mile service done last week; my brakes are @ 75%; brakes were replaced in Sep 05, 2 months ago, 10000 miles later. I sent that paperwork off to my Lawyers. I only have a little over 16000 miles on my car.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Here's your post:
    "Wanted to post this experience I had with the Michelin Pilot MXM4's that are standard on the Mazda6S: Unkowingly, I had run over a utility knife that lodged part of the blade in the tire, after stopping to visit a friend noticed the tire looked a little low, than a few hours later left and forgot to check the tire again. On the highway, the tire lost enough air to flatten and before I could pull over the sidewall blew out in 2 spots, about 3 in. long each. Although this could possibly happen to a variety of tire sizes/brands, I am a bit concerned that the Pilot disentegrated so quickly. There just isn't much sidewall material there (hence, the "slamming" those tires give when hitting potholes); so please beware if you have the Pilots and don't drive them with ANY slow leaks!"

    Not to drag this one out, but I read your post just fine. You didn't say you forgot it was low, you said you forgot to check it again. Big difference.
    Rant Mode ON
    If I thought I spotted a tire that might even be a little low, I wouldn't be driving it on the highway, that's for sure. Low air pressure can cause a tire to overheat, regardless if it's still losing air or not. With radial tires, by the time you can actually SEE it's low, it's really low, and you're rolling the dice with your life and everyone else.
    Rant Mode OFF
  • lefthandmanlefthandman Member Posts: 47
    Also, I live in Canada where we drive in snow half of the year. Any recommendations on what tires and wheels I should get? Should I keep with 17" or if I go to 16" will the odometer and speedometer give me the right numbers? Should I just get the tires or should I switch out the tires and wheels.

    ESWJong,

    I have an '04 MZ6 S 5-door, V6 with the manual transmission, live in Colorado, ski a lot, and tend to keep my vehicles awhile. I also debated whether to invest in extra rims for winter tires & decided yes when: (1) I found both tires and rims on sale as a package at Discount Tire (not sure if that chain exists in Canada), and (2) calculated the cost of switching from summer to winter tires using the same rims over a 6-8 year period (minimum I expect to keep this vehicle).

    I went with 16-inch tires/wheels due to lower cost than 17-inchers, plus I was told the smaller, slightly narrower 16-inch winter tires would perform better in snow. I invested in 16"x7" Konig Theory alloy rims (currently $110 each at Discount Tire) and Yokohama IG10 Ice Guard studless winter tires ($111 each at Discount). I used the wheels and tires last winter and was impressed - excellent traction in snow and to a lesser extent on ice. Also the tires are very quiet (for snows) on dry pavement. Check Discount and other online tire sites for package deals.

    Good luck. -Lefthandman
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    Sheeesh- I guess there is a big difference between forgetting it was low and forgetting to check it? :confuse: Or maybe it was intentional, as you stated, and I was just out to kill myself and everyone around me. Come on! Unfortunately, I'm not perfect like you- but the entire point of the post still stands: the Pilots seem more sensitive to low-pressure heat buildup than other tires I've owned, regardless of how it happened. Period, end of story. Please stop trying to pull more out of it than is there, and move on.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    When you knowingly drive on a tire with any type of puncture, it's hard to point a finger at the tire if it fails.
  • eswjongeswjong Member Posts: 6
    Hi there,

    My 2004 wagon (23,000kms) has been violently vibrating once I exceed speeds of around 100 km/hr (~ 60mph). When I say my wagon I mean the entire car, not just the steering wheel or dash. It's like a plane flying through turbulance. I've made an appointment to bring it in but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to wha it might be.

    I just took the car in for a check / tune up. It was fine before then (I drove 10 hours with it a couple of days before at the 120 km/hr.

    thanks!
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    When you knowingly drive on a tire with any type of puncture, it's hard to point a finger at the tire if it fails.

    Hey, don't say that. If we stopped blaming manufacturers for our own mistakes what would we do with all the out-of-work lawyers? :cry:
  • eswjongeswjong Member Posts: 6
    So I found out the problem was caked on mud. Through the balance right off.
  • smeansmean Member Posts: 1
    I've had the same problem and am still dealing with it. I was driving my car and one day the battery light comes on and an hour later the car isn't moving. The battery is dead. We've replaced the alternator and still the car won't start. The fuses and the wiring looks fine. HELP!!!!
  • robs6wagonrobs6wagon Member Posts: 68
    Hi everyone, just have a quick question....I have a 2004 M6 sport wagon with sport package. I have the Michelin Pilots (17in) all around it. Since the delivery date, the car has been pulling to the left, from a dead start right through highway speeds. Mazda did an alighnment on all fours, but it still pulls to the left. The tire pressures are at 32 (recommended), and I have 20000 miles with no discernable bad tread wear! Any problems with brake calipers sticking?? It sure seems like the only answer to this irritating problem. thanks, Rob
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    It could be a tire. Sometimes you get a tire that seems to cause a pull. Moving tires from front to rear or left to right sometimes will reveal the offender. I know this seems strange and I don't really understand the exact reasons for it, but I have seen it myself on my own car. Some cars seem to be more sensitive to this problem than others. Of course with 20000 miles you should have rotated the tires at least once, so this might not be your problem.
  • bluem6ibluem6i Member Posts: 77
    It could also be the subframe is out of alignment. My wife's 2003 6i was pulling to the right and the dealer loosened and repositioned the subframe to correct it.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    I've got a 2003 Mazda6s that seems to be losing oil. I periodically look at the dipstick and it looks like I lose about 1quart every 1000 miles. I spotted this last year and have been adding about 1-1/2 quarts when the oil level on the dipstick reads "min" and that gets it back to normal operating levels.

    What's odd is that I can't see any leaking oil on my garage floor or in the engine compartment. Could the leak be that small? Is there some other explanation?

    Would love people's insight on this. thanks.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    Check the PCV valve. I read something on the Mazda6tech website that said there was a CRP with the valve sticking.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Hey thanks. But I checked the site, did some searching and couldn't find the CRP you were talking about. Can you give me the jist of the article and why the PCV valve sticking would cause oil leaking?
  • bigogm6bigogm6 Member Posts: 2
    No CEL..almost 12,000 miles, almost a year old. In month 3 of ownership on my 05 mazda 6i , I had a faulty brake clip rubbing on the rotor (loud squeeking noise) was fixed, and hard shifting in trans from 1st to 2nd when cold. Was fixed with ECU flash. Since then, car has been absolutely beautiful. Engine not as refine as honda or toyota, but great road performer. There are other cars out there with more problems than the mazda6, (my friends 04 accord v6 auto coupe.) For the price I paid, think I made a good choice. For those having way too much problems with there's, you prolly have a lemon :lemon: :P
  • freshflamesfreshflames Member Posts: 2
    OK - so I have had this horrible problem with my 2003 Mazda6s since I bought it. I have brought it into the dealer at least 6 times and they cannot get the problem to duplicate. I have an automatic and it shifts extremely hard from 2-3rd gear (around 30mph). I have only 500 miles left on my warranty and the last time I brought it in they tried to charge me for the diagnostic and the rental car because they said there was nothing wrong with it. I WILL NEVER buy a Mazda again!!

    I had my husband drive it (he is a diesel mechanic) and he was able to duplicate the problem - but since he is not a mazda tech - they won't take his word.....

    They keep putting it on the computer and telling me nothing shows up - but could there be something wrong with it that will not show up on the computer?

    I called another dealer to look at it this week - they said there is a service bulletin for this problem - anyone know about this bulletin?

    If anyone finds has any info on the problem or about this bulletin - please post ASAP.....Thanks!!
  • rgb2rgb2 Member Posts: 31
    There is TSB for a shift shock from 1 to 2nd gear. What they do is reflash TCM - change transmission computer program. I don't have any more info, but you can try searching NHTSA website for more info.
  • freshflamesfreshflames Member Posts: 2
    Thanks - I will give it a try!!
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Well, to all of you who seem to be haveing a problem with you Mazda6, I notice that the majority are with the "s" model. To all of you that dont know, the 3.0L V6 is a Ford Motor. Now, Mazda is aware of the problems this motor is causeing for their company. The reason they used it is because they have a contract with Ford to used "X" number of Ford engines in their vehicles. Now, this contract is comming to an end. The Tribute (Ford 3.0L V6) will see its last day in 2007. And the MPV, also Ford engine, will be discontinued as of 2006. Mazda most likely not use the Ford 3.0L V6 in the Mazda6 past 2007. Now, the tranny problems are most likey linked to the fact its a MAzda tranny, and a Ford motor. I have a MAzda6 "i", and NO problems with either. Mazda's 4 bangger's are a great motor. The days of Ford engines in Mazda cars will be over soon. So, please bare with Mazda, they know the Ford engine sucks, but they had to use it, or the company would be out of business in 1995 ( Ford bailed them out, hence the engine contract)
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Mazda most likely not use the Ford 3.0L V6 in the Mazda6 past 2007

    The 3.0 L V6 will be replaced with a 3.5 L version of the "Duratec" when the 6 gets revised in '07-'08. The motor was recently introduced by Ford, with power and torque figures "starting" at 250 HP and 250 lb/ft.

    Now, the tranny problems are most likey linked to the fact its a MAzda tranny, and a Ford motor...The days of Ford engines in Mazda cars will be over soon. So, please bare with Mazda, they know the Ford engine sucks, but they had to use it, or the company would be out of business in 1995 ( Ford bailed them out, hence the engine contract)

    Uhh, you'd better get ALL your facts straight. Engine contract or not, you're making a HUGE generalization saying that the majority of the problems are associated with the V6. I don't buy it, not for a second. Do you have hard figures?

    I've got the V6 with the 5-speed manual. 16 months and 21K miles later, I've had NO problems with either of them. I plan on getting well over 100K miles with my car, and I'm sure it'll be running great even past then.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    "To all of you that dont know, the 3.0L V6 is a Ford Motor."

    Sheesh, do we have to go over this all again? :cry:
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Uhh, you'd better get ALL your facts straight. Engine contract or not, you're making a HUGE generalization saying that the majority of the problems are associated with the V6. I don't buy it, not for a second. Do you have hard figures?


    I said that based on what I was told. My source could be wrong. I have a 6 as well, no tranny problems, and I have not heard of any tranny problems with a I4 engine. Do you have any insite in to what the problem is? I'm open to any possibility. I do know a Mazda tech, he might be able to provide some answers.
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    I haven't heard about any tranny problems, outside of the "shift-shock" which is easily correctable. No tranny failures, 6i or 6S (unlike our friends over at Honda/Acura). The Duratech engine as modified by Mazda, and even as used by Ford, is reported to be fairly durable. It's not highly refined, and gets so-so gas mileage, but a great mid-range performer and smoother than any GM V6's. I think the 6 will prove to be a decent 150K mile car with proper maintenance.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    To all of you that dont know, the 3.0L V6 is a Ford Motor. Now, Mazda is aware of the problems this motor is causeing for their company.

    Ford may have it's share of problems but the Duratec isn't one of them...you need to do some additional homework before you start slamming an engine that has very good track record. Ford has been a savior for Mazda and now Mazda is paying Ford back with products that can enhance Ford's bottom line. Get your facts in order before you start talking about contracts and agreements you know nothing about.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    The 3.0 L V6 will be replaced with a 3.5 L version of the "Duratec" when the 6 gets revised in '07-'08. The motor was recently introduced by Ford, with power and torque figures "starting" at 250 HP and 250 lb/ft.


    Where did you get this information? Was this released by Mazda? Or just speculation? Like everyone thought the CX-7 was going to receive the 3.5L V6 from Ford. The CX-7 has no Ford influence at all. It actually has the MZR 2.3 DISI Turbo.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Get your facts in order before you start talking about contracts and agreements you know nothing about

    So, you are telling me you know all about the partnership between Ford and Mazda? Because you came off pretty strong my making that statement. I actually do know what the agreement between the two company's are. I am close friends with the owner or a Ford franchise and a Mazda franchise. He owns both. What do you know about the agreement????
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    What do you know about the agreement?

    Ford owns 36% of Mazda stock and therefore CONTROLLS them according to Japanese law. Agreement or not, Ford calls the shots. End of story.

    The CX-7 is rumored to come standard with the Duratec23 but Edmunds just posted spy shots of the 2007 Mazda CX-9 today and I suggest you find it (it's on the Inside Line home page). Pay particular attention to the part about the engine it will come with.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    Ford owns 36% of Mazda stock and therefore CONTROLLS them according to Japanese law. Agreement or not, Ford calls the shots. End of story.

    Actually, Ford owns 33% of Mazda. Not, 36%. Although, you are correct that it is the controlling portion. Ford does not call all the shots, because, that 33% is based in the financial part of the partnership. Meaning, Mazda American Credit is a division of Ford Motor Credit.

    Mazda agreed to the increase in control(25% to 33%) not only because Mazda was in jeopardy of going BK, but, Mazda did not have an established bank here in the U.S. So, Ford was not the only one who came out on top. In a sense, this was the best thing to happen to Mazda.

    The CX-7 is rumored to come standard with the Duratec23 but Edmunds just posted spy shots of the 2007 Mazda CX-9

    I guess I did not give you my whole background before. Not only does my friend own a Mazda and Ford dealership, I also work for Mazda for him. The CX-7 WILL have the MZR 2.3L DISI Turbo..no rumor, FACT. (the duratec23 is a Mazda engine) I have placed my first allocation due here in the March (hopefully) of '06. Now, this CX-9. It will be replacing the MPV. There is no current "official" information on this vehicle yet. All that is known is that it will be a 7 passenger crossover. The earliest we will see this vehicle is mid-'07.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    I am close friends with the owner or a Ford franchise and a Mazda franchise. He owns both. What do you know about the agreement????

    I'm a Ford, Lincoln-Mercury and Mazda dealer...along with other franchises...any more questions?
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    I'm a Ford, Lincoln-Mercury and Mazda dealer...along with other franchises...any more questions?

    Yes, why was your info wrong if you are a Ford/Mazda dealer?
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    ">link titleFord does not call all the shots, because, that 33% is based in the financial part of the partnership. Meaning, Mazda American Credit is a division of Ford Motor Credit.

    Yes, Ford does. The credit portion was sold to Ford Credit in 1999.

    Ford acquired the 33.4% controlling stake in 1996. At that time, and up until 1999, Mazda Credit and Ford Credit were two separate entities and had little or nothing to do with the shares being sold.

    Mazda was in trouble. Ford helped them in a big way. Now Ford tells them what to do, they do it, and it benefits the consumer more than anyone else. I own a Mazda6 and am glad it has the Mazda tuned Duratec30 in it. That way I get proven performance from a company that prides themselves on it as well as proven reliability from a block with a proven track record. The rest is just gravy.

    CX-9

    FYI. Goes on sale next fall. Comes with the Ford version of the Duratec35.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    FYI. Goes on sale next fall. Comes with the Ford version of the Duratec35.

    I have not heard that yet. But, that's Mazda for you. They wait until the last miniute to announce anything.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    But, that's Mazda for you. They wait until the last miniute to announce anything.

    I'm not sure that they announced it officially yet. Like I said, it came from Edmunds but they seem pretty sure of it and it makes perfect sense.
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