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ok just got off the phone with the dealer service dept. explained to him of what happened and his lovely answer was "we dont know we have to see it first".........dont you just love dealerships? so i made an appointment for next week for when im on vacation...and they have to "look at it"
So ridiculous.
Please post again if any of you find a solution.
Thanks!
also, i have a pebble colored exterior...it seems like the front fender and rear bumper color is a little off from the body of the car....is this because they are fiberglass and the body is metal? lastly, my beige interior has many water spots from raindrops that enter when i am getting in. the water dries to leave unsightly spots......any help would be appreciated!
The different shades of paint are because of the material of the part underneath. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do about that...
I'm having A/C problems. The 3 vents near the drivers side are blowing cold air and the 2 near the passenger side are blowing warm air. I took my car to Mazda and they said that is normal. I've had the car since 2003 and this just stating happening a month ago. The car doesn't cool down with the 2 vents blowing warm air. I was amazed when the dealer said this was OK. What could be the problem?
Did you try pulling out the part of the blade that got lodged in the tire?
In my limited experience I have found that removing the object that punctured the tire is less safe than leaving it; the nail or other object temporarily seals the hole.
Did you think because the leak was slow that you could drive on the highway?
Problem is a slow leak may be more serious. Plus you increase the risk to yourself and others by driving at highway speeds with highway traffic surrounding you. Glad to hear that you lived to tell the tale!
Just wondering what products you'd recommend for the following issues:
Removing light scratches on the instrument console. I bought my M6 used and the previous owner left a few marks by the shifter.
Cleaning and protecting the leather interior.
Also, I live in Canada where we drive in snow half of the year. Any recommendations on what tires and wheels I should get? Should I keep with 17" or if I go to 16" will the odometer and speedometer give me the right numbers? Should I just get the tires or should I switch out the tires and wheels.
Thanks!
The choice for some people is based on cost and availability; the price of 16" will likely be cheaper than the 17". The speedometer variance is slight between a 16" and 17". Winter rims + tires are easier to install and the steel rims will save wear on your alloys. I've used winter tires + rims for 3 years and highly recommend them.
in Canada where we drive in snow half of the year
I suppose that depends where in Canada. Typically I drive about 4 months on my winter tires here in Ottawa; once March rolls around I count the days until the switch back to summer tires.
"Wanted to post this experience I had with the Michelin Pilot MXM4's that are standard on the Mazda6S: Unkowingly, I had run over a utility knife that lodged part of the blade in the tire, after stopping to visit a friend noticed the tire looked a little low, than a few hours later left and forgot to check the tire again. On the highway, the tire lost enough air to flatten and before I could pull over the sidewall blew out in 2 spots, about 3 in. long each. Although this could possibly happen to a variety of tire sizes/brands, I am a bit concerned that the Pilot disentegrated so quickly. There just isn't much sidewall material there (hence, the "slamming" those tires give when hitting potholes); so please beware if you have the Pilots and don't drive them with ANY slow leaks!"
Not to drag this one out, but I read your post just fine. You didn't say you forgot it was low, you said you forgot to check it again. Big difference.
Rant Mode ON
If I thought I spotted a tire that might even be a little low, I wouldn't be driving it on the highway, that's for sure. Low air pressure can cause a tire to overheat, regardless if it's still losing air or not. With radial tires, by the time you can actually SEE it's low, it's really low, and you're rolling the dice with your life and everyone else.
Rant Mode OFF
ESWJong,
I have an '04 MZ6 S 5-door, V6 with the manual transmission, live in Colorado, ski a lot, and tend to keep my vehicles awhile. I also debated whether to invest in extra rims for winter tires & decided yes when: (1) I found both tires and rims on sale as a package at Discount Tire (not sure if that chain exists in Canada), and (2) calculated the cost of switching from summer to winter tires using the same rims over a 6-8 year period (minimum I expect to keep this vehicle).
I went with 16-inch tires/wheels due to lower cost than 17-inchers, plus I was told the smaller, slightly narrower 16-inch winter tires would perform better in snow. I invested in 16"x7" Konig Theory alloy rims (currently $110 each at Discount Tire) and Yokohama IG10 Ice Guard studless winter tires ($111 each at Discount). I used the wheels and tires last winter and was impressed - excellent traction in snow and to a lesser extent on ice. Also the tires are very quiet (for snows) on dry pavement. Check Discount and other online tire sites for package deals.
Good luck. -Lefthandman
My 2004 wagon (23,000kms) has been violently vibrating once I exceed speeds of around 100 km/hr (~ 60mph). When I say my wagon I mean the entire car, not just the steering wheel or dash. It's like a plane flying through turbulance. I've made an appointment to bring it in but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to wha it might be.
I just took the car in for a check / tune up. It was fine before then (I drove 10 hours with it a couple of days before at the 120 km/hr.
thanks!
Hey, don't say that. If we stopped blaming manufacturers for our own mistakes what would we do with all the out-of-work lawyers?
What's odd is that I can't see any leaking oil on my garage floor or in the engine compartment. Could the leak be that small? Is there some other explanation?
Would love people's insight on this. thanks.
I had my husband drive it (he is a diesel mechanic) and he was able to duplicate the problem - but since he is not a mazda tech - they won't take his word.....
They keep putting it on the computer and telling me nothing shows up - but could there be something wrong with it that will not show up on the computer?
I called another dealer to look at it this week - they said there is a service bulletin for this problem - anyone know about this bulletin?
If anyone finds has any info on the problem or about this bulletin - please post ASAP.....Thanks!!
The 3.0 L V6 will be replaced with a 3.5 L version of the "Duratec" when the 6 gets revised in '07-'08. The motor was recently introduced by Ford, with power and torque figures "starting" at 250 HP and 250 lb/ft.
Now, the tranny problems are most likey linked to the fact its a MAzda tranny, and a Ford motor...The days of Ford engines in Mazda cars will be over soon. So, please bare with Mazda, they know the Ford engine sucks, but they had to use it, or the company would be out of business in 1995 ( Ford bailed them out, hence the engine contract)
Uhh, you'd better get ALL your facts straight. Engine contract or not, you're making a HUGE generalization saying that the majority of the problems are associated with the V6. I don't buy it, not for a second. Do you have hard figures?
I've got the V6 with the 5-speed manual. 16 months and 21K miles later, I've had NO problems with either of them. I plan on getting well over 100K miles with my car, and I'm sure it'll be running great even past then.
Sheesh, do we have to go over this all again?
I said that based on what I was told. My source could be wrong. I have a 6 as well, no tranny problems, and I have not heard of any tranny problems with a I4 engine. Do you have any insite in to what the problem is? I'm open to any possibility. I do know a Mazda tech, he might be able to provide some answers.
Ford may have it's share of problems but the Duratec isn't one of them...you need to do some additional homework before you start slamming an engine that has very good track record. Ford has been a savior for Mazda and now Mazda is paying Ford back with products that can enhance Ford's bottom line. Get your facts in order before you start talking about contracts and agreements you know nothing about.
Where did you get this information? Was this released by Mazda? Or just speculation? Like everyone thought the CX-7 was going to receive the 3.5L V6 from Ford. The CX-7 has no Ford influence at all. It actually has the MZR 2.3 DISI Turbo.
So, you are telling me you know all about the partnership between Ford and Mazda? Because you came off pretty strong my making that statement. I actually do know what the agreement between the two company's are. I am close friends with the owner or a Ford franchise and a Mazda franchise. He owns both. What do you know about the agreement????
Ford owns 36% of Mazda stock and therefore CONTROLLS them according to Japanese law. Agreement or not, Ford calls the shots. End of story.
The CX-7 is rumored to come standard with the Duratec23 but Edmunds just posted spy shots of the 2007 Mazda CX-9 today and I suggest you find it (it's on the Inside Line home page). Pay particular attention to the part about the engine it will come with.
Actually, Ford owns 33% of Mazda. Not, 36%. Although, you are correct that it is the controlling portion. Ford does not call all the shots, because, that 33% is based in the financial part of the partnership. Meaning, Mazda American Credit is a division of Ford Motor Credit.
Mazda agreed to the increase in control(25% to 33%) not only because Mazda was in jeopardy of going BK, but, Mazda did not have an established bank here in the U.S. So, Ford was not the only one who came out on top. In a sense, this was the best thing to happen to Mazda.
The CX-7 is rumored to come standard with the Duratec23 but Edmunds just posted spy shots of the 2007 Mazda CX-9
I guess I did not give you my whole background before. Not only does my friend own a Mazda and Ford dealership, I also work for Mazda for him. The CX-7 WILL have the MZR 2.3L DISI Turbo..no rumor, FACT. (the duratec23 is a Mazda engine) I have placed my first allocation due here in the March (hopefully) of '06. Now, this CX-9. It will be replacing the MPV. There is no current "official" information on this vehicle yet. All that is known is that it will be a 7 passenger crossover. The earliest we will see this vehicle is mid-'07.
I'm a Ford, Lincoln-Mercury and Mazda dealer...along with other franchises...any more questions?
Yes, why was your info wrong if you are a Ford/Mazda dealer?
Yes, Ford does. The credit portion was sold to Ford Credit in 1999.
Ford acquired the 33.4% controlling stake in 1996. At that time, and up until 1999, Mazda Credit and Ford Credit were two separate entities and had little or nothing to do with the shares being sold.
Mazda was in trouble. Ford helped them in a big way. Now Ford tells them what to do, they do it, and it benefits the consumer more than anyone else. I own a Mazda6 and am glad it has the Mazda tuned Duratec30 in it. That way I get proven performance from a company that prides themselves on it as well as proven reliability from a block with a proven track record. The rest is just gravy.
CX-9
FYI. Goes on sale next fall. Comes with the Ford version of the Duratec35.
I have not heard that yet. But, that's Mazda for you. They wait until the last miniute to announce anything.
I'm not sure that they announced it officially yet. Like I said, it came from Edmunds but they seem pretty sure of it and it makes perfect sense.